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Influence100 posted:Q: I've got a horribly bad tie rod that needs to get replaced ASAP. A few months ago a shop told me I needed a new Left Outer tie rod... did they mean the passenger side or driver side? (Is left and right decided from inside the car facing forward, or by standing in front of the car????) When I'm driving and hit my brakes, I swear I feel the wobbling on my passenger side... but I would assume "left" tie rod would mean driver side (I'm in America... when I'm inside the car, I'm on the left.. unless your standing in front of my car, then I'm on the right :P ) I'm not taking this car to that shop, I'm having a friend do it, but he needs to know which side tie rod to buy... Left side is driver side on Left Hand Drive vehicles.
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Sep 6, 2010 00:05
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ijustam posted:I'm getting a "wubwubwubwub" sound from my wheels when I'm moving that gets faster as I speed up. It seems to be more prominent on black pavement than concrete. I have Kumho Escta ASX tires that were rotated a few weeks ago and the sound started to occur after they were rotated. Reposting this Also I should probably mention it's a 2006 Mazda3, auto trans
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Sep 6, 2010 00:09
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ijustam posted:Reposting this Get them balanced and/or an alignment. While the car is up on the lift check for wheel bearing play.
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Sep 6, 2010 01:04
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I'm trying to replace the pads/rotors on my 1996 Honda Accord. I bought it used (a long time ago) and the little logo on the rear of the car that denotes EX/LX/DX (trim) has fallen off! I'm trying to replace the brake rotors (myself), and it appears as though I will need to order specific rotors related to the trim of the car. I'm embarrassed to say that I don't know how figure this out. Can I use the VIN number to determine this? It's a four door, four cylinder, sedan without ABS. I'm dumb. EDIT: It looks like all trims but the DX came with cruise control, something that my car lacks. So, I'm thinking I have a 1996 Honda Accord DX. Can anyone help me confirm this? Thanks! Pvt. Benedetto fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 01:33
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How much does it cost on average to remove window tints from a 4 door car at a shop? I paid about $250 to get all my windows tinted so I'm assuming that it wouldn't be that much to get it removed.
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Sep 6, 2010 01:41
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Pvt. Benedetto posted:Can I use the VIN number to determine this? http://members.multimania.nl/hendrik/honda/vin.htm
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Sep 6, 2010 01:57
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Uthor posted:http://members.multimania.nl/hendrik/honda/vin.htm Oh gosh. Thanks so much, this is perfect. EDIT: Uhhh, is this a terrible deal? I need new pads and rotors, and this appears to have both. http://www.1aauto.com/1A/BrakePadAn...utm_content=BFS It appears to have everything I would need to replace. Pvt. Benedetto fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 02:01
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SynMoo posted:It's a good idea to rev up the engine every now and then for a number of reasons, but the easiest to think of off hand is that if you never switch to the second cam profile by revving past a certain RPM, the actuator could stiffen up over time. Probably not, but it doesn't hurt. And don't worry, full throttle runs to near the red line aren't going to hurt the car. Hell, that's where yor car makes most of it's power. Thanks, it does go quick in the high rpms and first gear hit about 55 (34MPH) just before redline. my1999gsr posted:The Honda B-series and K-series engines (your's is a K-series) were built to rev and shifting at low RPMs/lugging the engine aren't helping it. Check your owner's manual for driving tips - it should give you optimal shift points for each gear. It took me a while to get used to my Honda's engine too - I mostly drove a diesel before and their power delivery is very different - basically opposite. I had read through my owner's manual which indicates to drive in the highest gear that lets the engine run and accelerate smoothly, which is for fuel economy and effective emissions control, recommended shift points were 24/44/63/85 (15/27/39/53MPH) which is almost exactly 3,000rpm. Sometimes I shift lower than these speeds but that's for fuel purposes and other times I shift near or above those figures.
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Sep 6, 2010 03:11
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Sigh. So whoever owned my car before I did used one of those awful stick-on air fresheners to the top of the dash, and left it in the Texas heat this way. How do I get that nasty foam residue/stickystuff off? Goo Gone didn't do anything.
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Sep 6, 2010 03:13
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Over in Post Your Ride we had a bit of a discussion of Toyota's fun-car-free current offerings, and what they did in the past. Rather than continuing to clutter that thread, I thought I'd move it here. Did Toyota ever have a car in the possibly-entirely-made-up-by-me category "Speed for Cheap"? The MR2, Celica, etc. were not budget cars when new. Did anybody, ever, make Speed for Cheap? There's the cliche of the junky Camaro drag-racing on a Saturday night, but did any of the American sports / muscle cars sell for cheap when new? Did any cheap cars have speed, if not class? Is the place to look for such things in the "hot hatchback" category, or somewhere else?
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Sep 6, 2010 04:00
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andy17null posted:So I just bought my first car [blue '99 firebird.] I purchased it from a private seller in the state of NY. I have to send the title to my bank ASAP for a lien. I am moving to Connecticut on Monday to start my new job. Should I register the car in NY or CT? I know I have to get a CT license within 30 days. Do I have to register the car, get plates mailed to me, put the plates on in NY and drive to CT, or can I drive to CT with no plates and park it until I get plates? It's about a hundred miles each way, almost all on I-84. This is tricky but there's no "you have to do this" scenario as far as I know, what you have to do is research the costs for both scenarios and do whichever is cheaper. You don't usually have a deadline on when to switch plates, so if you register it in NY right now, you can take your time and wait for everything to get to you before switching it to CT. The thing you have to be careful of is sales tax. Often if you buy a car from out of state it's to take advantage of a lower sales tax, and states often protect themselves from that by enforcing their own sales tax, which they do when you try to apply for a title. I got screwed that way myself. I bought a car in Oregon, which has no sales tax at all, the week before moving. I decided to save the $42 title and registration fees (back then they were cheap) and just get a temp tag so I could register it in Colorado once I got here. Denver had a 7.4% sales tax on cars, and since I didn't have an Oregon title and registration in my name, they forced me to pay it as if I was a CO resident for years, buying an out of state car. On an $11,000 car. I saved $42 but it forced me to spend several hundred. Luckily they allow you to subtract the value of your trade in, so I ended up paying something like $300 in tax, I don't remember the exact figures now. And since I was no longer an OR resident by the time I found this out, I couldn't go back and get the title and reg there. Anyway, check out the sales tax for both states, the registration and title fees for both states, visit or call the DMV and find out if there is a time restriction on switching your registration, and then do a bunch of math to figure out if you're better off registering the car first and switching to CT with it already in your name. If both states have similar car taxes and reg fees, you're likely better off just pretending to be a CT resident who bought a car in NY, and waiting till you move to do the paperwork.
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Sep 6, 2010 04:52
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Awesome, thanks for the tips. Is my assumption that I can't drive the car at all until it has plates or at least temporary tags correct?
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Sep 6, 2010 04:56
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Morby posted:The tire hook is hanging down on my back tire. How much would it cost to get that fixed? This question really intrigues me. What on earth is a tire hook?
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Sep 6, 2010 05:20
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Jr. posted:Sigh. So whoever owned my car before I did used one of those awful stick-on air fresheners to the top of the dash, and left it in the Texas heat this way. How do I get that nasty foam residue/stickystuff off? Goo Gone didn't do anything. I would try unscented nail polish remover. Acetone is a pretty good all around solvent. I would test the solvent on an inconspicuous area first, as sometimes it's too good of a solvent.
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Sep 6, 2010 05:22
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ExecuDork posted:Over in Post Your Ride we had a bit of a discussion of Toyota's fun-car-free current offerings, and what they did in the past. Rather than continuing to clutter that thread, I thought I'd move it here. It really depends on your definition of 'speed' but the mazdaspeed3 is relatively cheap for the power it puts out. Like 260hp for $22k(?). I've never driven one but I think on paper, not much else comes close to that for the price, with the exception of the Dodge Caliber SRT-4, which has like 300hp for $24k.
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Sep 6, 2010 05:57
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ExecuDork posted:Did Toyota ever have a car in the possibly-entirely-made-up-by-me category "Speed for Cheap"? The MR2, Celica, etc. were not budget cars when new. quote:Did anybody, ever, make Speed for Cheap? There's the cliche of the junky Camaro drag-racing on a Saturday night, but did any of the American sports / muscle cars sell for cheap when new? Did any cheap cars have speed, if not class? Is the place to look for such things in the "hot hatchback" category, or somewhere else? Generally speaking, speed costs money. However, you can buy a Mazda Miata on the cheap and with a little talent, put it around a race track about as fast as anything else. You won't win any drag races, but that's not all that "fast" is about. If you want to go straight line fast, the old Dodge Neon SRT-4's were stupid fast for something that didn't cost a whole lot of money, and the more recent turbocharged Cobalt SS did the same. Now, these aren't going to blow the doors off of everything, but they'll surprise a few people and they're far faster than anything else in their (original) price range. However, you're not going to be knocking off Porsches and Corvettes. Speed costs money, there's no way around that.
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Sep 6, 2010 06:24
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Busy Bee posted:How much does it cost on average to remove window tints from a 4 door car at a shop? I paid about $250 to get all my windows tinted so I'm assuming that it wouldn't be that much to get it removed. I ended up taking it off myself, but I had the benefit of doing it in the middle of the summer and I let the sun do most of the work. I don't know where you live, but it might be worth a shot. Just spray the inside of the windows with windex and cover it with aluminum foil. Let it sit for an hour and most of it will peel off pretty easily. The back window was a bitch, though. A few shops also told me that I might lose my defroster lines on the rear window. It was beyond worth it though: Before:  After: 
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Sep 6, 2010 07:08
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The Third Man posted:Any RX-8 owners tell me what the costs of maintaining the car as opposed to something like a Mazdaspeed 3? I know I'll spend more on fuel, but if something breaks and I need to take it to a shop, will there be a big difference in what I'll pay? You're probably not going to pay any more in fuel on an 8 compared to a Speed3, given that the Speed3 requires premium fuel and is rated at only 25mpg with a feather-light throttle foot (good luck keeping it out of boost-it's too much fun). The RX-8 might cause you more of a headache depending on what breaks, as there aren't many rotary mechanics left even at Mazda dealerships. You'll spend more on oil with the 8, because of the oil the rotor tips burn for lubrication. Having driven both and being a die-hard rotary fanatic, you'll also have more fun in a Speed3 for the money.
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Sep 6, 2010 14:04
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I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I realize that's probably my main problem, but besides that I'm having several issues: - The alternator belt squeals. Not at all times, but almost everytime I initially turn the vehicle on. It also occurs right when I turn the A/C on and occasionally when accelerating from a stop or turning very sharply. This problem comes back even though I've replaced the alternator belt twice (because I've had to, as they both either snapped or deteriorated). - When the heater or A/C is on, I can hear an obnoxious WHIRRR noise. I assume this is the fan itself but I don't know what the solution would be or how to go about doing it. - The car also rocks when started, like it's struggling to stay running. A same/similar knocking occurs when the vehicle is idling, but not when accelerating as far as I can tell. What could be the cause of this and what are my options? I've heard this year of model can have fuel pump problems if that may be a probable cause. That's all I can think of at the moment, but I also would like to know the best (yet easiest) ways to tell if there are suspension problems.
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Sep 6, 2010 17:01
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Salt In The Wound posted:- The alternator belt squeals. Not at all times, but almost everytime I initially turn the vehicle on. It also occurs right when I turn the A/C on and occasionally when accelerating from a stop or turning very sharply. This problem comes back even though I've replaced the alternator belt twice (because I've had to, as they both either snapped or deteriorated). 1. Sounds like the tensioner could be bad. In other words, it's allowing the belt to be loose on the pulleys, which would explain the squeal and why the belts don't last very long. 2. Could be leaves or debris stuck in the fan? It's usually mounted under the passenger footwell by a couple of bolts. 3. A rough idle could be a lot of things, but probably not the fuel pump. When was the last time you had the spark plugs and wires, engine air filter, and fuel filter changed?
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Sep 6, 2010 18:27
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Pvt. Benedetto posted:I'm trying to replace the pads/rotors on my 1996 Honda Accord. I bought it used (a long time ago) and the little logo on the rear of the car that denotes EX/LX/DX (trim) has fallen off! For future reference for anyone else... 1990+ DX Accord = manual windows, locks, mirrors. LX = power locks, mirrors, windows, and on a 98+, the VTEC engine EX adds a sunroof, optional leather, and on 94+ a VTEC engine. 94-97 EX models were available with a V6. 98-02 LX and EX could be had with a V6, even leather, but V6 Accords should be avoided due to transmission issues prior to 2003 or 2004 (same with the V6 Honda Odessy<sp?> from the same times as it uses the same driveline). EX V6's also got side curtain air bags starting in 1998, if memory serves correctly (maybe the LX V6 too). Antilock, at least prior to 2003, I believe has been optional except on V6 EX models. Good chance I'm wrong on that though. Tachometer has been standard since at least 1986 on all models. Prior to 1990, it was mostly the same, except instead of an EX, there was the LX-i, which added a fuel injected engine and sunroof on top of the LX options (DX and LX prior to 1990 were carbureted). There's been a few odd ones, like the SEi (89 only, LXi with leather and a Bose stereo) and SE's. I believe they dropped the DX model in 2003, but it may have been on the current generation. Also have fun with the hell that is the front brakes on the 1990-1997 Accords! Insanely retarded design if you ever need to remove the rotors. (I've owned entirely too many loving Hondas) -- Now for my own question. How long do cars typically sit on used car lots? My old Accord had been on the lot for 4 months. I didn't ask how long my Altima sat on the lot, but Carfax says its last smog was 11/30/09 with 132,198 miles. I got it with about 133,800 (less than 2 weeks ago) and I've since put about 400 miles on it. The owner of the lot told me he would drive it from time to time himself to run errands, and they did tell me when it was traded in the clutch was completely fried. Just sounds like it sat for nearly 10 months or so, and the battery is definitely showing signs of some neglect (3 year old Interstate, but cranks pretty slow). I would think they'd flip a bit faster, but both this car and my last Accord had manual transmissions. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 19:12
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1991 Eclipse GS-T. Replaced the spark plugs and wires a couple days ago and the car started up amazing. Today the battery died. I replaced some hoses in the car and started it up and she was struggling. Drove her up and down the street and shut her off. Tried to start her again to no avail. Noticed that the battery terminals were chewed up and wouldn't tighten so I replaced them. Still didn't start up. Volt meter measured 11.30. Jumped it with my brother's Taurus and it started up. While it was juicing up the battery was still draining from 11.30 to 7.5 before I said, "gently caress this," and turned it off. I'm about 75% sure it needs a new battery as opposed to say, an alternator. What do you guys think? Also, what's a decent ~$100 battery?
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Sep 6, 2010 20:47
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Super Aggro Crag posted:1991 Eclipse GS-T. I would DEFINETLY check the alternator first, depending on the vehicle your alternator should be able to sustain the car without the battery, so if it is draining and then dying on you, something is not going right. Your battery is mainly for cranking and for when the alternator is not putting out enough juice to keep everything running. A good way to check is take that voltmeter and put it on the terminal on the alternator and then the negative lead to the negative on the battery and see what it is putting out. Should be about 12.90-13.30 volts or in that range
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Sep 6, 2010 20:51
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What happens if you hit something like a mattress or a ladder on the highway? I have seen both of these recently and just know that someone not paying attention has to hit them.
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Sep 6, 2010 21:09
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smackfu posted:What happens if you hit something like a mattress or a ladder on the highway? I have seen both of these recently and just know that someone not paying attention has to hit them. Well... Recently had a collision with road debris last week late at night, it ripped a massive hole in my driver side tire and tore at the tread on the driver side rear tire. Damaged wheel bearings and a damaged half-shaft were the results. Doubt a matress would do much but a ladder might
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Sep 6, 2010 21:11
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CommieGIR posted:I would DEFINETLY check the alternator first, depending on the vehicle your alternator should be able to sustain the car without the battery, so if it is draining and then dying on you, something is not going right. Your battery is mainly for cranking and for when the alternator is not putting out enough juice to keep everything running. A good way to check is take that voltmeter and put it on the terminal on the alternator and then the negative lead to the negative on the battery and see what it is putting out. Should be about 12.90-13.30 volts or in that range poo poo, I think you're right. I put measured the positive on the alternator and the negative on the battery and it was reading .02. I have to get the power steering pump replaced anyways, which is right on top of the alternator. Maybe I'll just get it towed to my dad's mechanic and have him do both. Don't really feel like taking them apart.
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Sep 6, 2010 21:11
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Super Aggro Crag posted:poo poo, I think you're right. I put measured the positive on the alternator and the negative on the battery and it was reading .02. I have to get the power steering pump replaced anyways, which is right on top of the alternator. Maybe I'll just get it towed to my dad's mechanic and have him do both. Don't really feel like taking them apart. As an added precaution, with the car off do an ohms check on the wire running from the alternator to the battery. Recently had a car I was working on that the guy was swearing the alternator was dead, turned out the wire had just corroded away. Either way, don't buy a brand new battery before you are sure that the alternator is actually producing a charge. If you remove it, you can run it to Autozone or Oriellys and they have a bench setup for testing your alternator. Take your battery too and get it charged, that way you can eliminate both possibilities, because their charger will tell you if the battery is toast CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 21:17
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Let's fix my A/C! 1989 corolla sr5 (carburated 1.6L if that helps.) It has been updated to r134 in the past. I went to recharge my A/C a while ago and my A/C would not turn on. The light on the button inside the cabin would, but the A/C clutch would not kick in. So I went looking under the good and found a frayed wire:  Click here for the full 2000x1500 image. I am pretty sure that the frayed wire is the A/C clutch wire, or rather the wire before that because when I unplugged that plug and applied 12v to the other(non-frayed) end the clutch kicked on and my engine came under load. So I then cut some rubber before that fray and tested for continuity and there was so the fray was not the issue. I then learned that there is a sensor that detects if the system has low pressure and it prevents the clutch from kicking in if the pressure is too low so as not to damage anything. So my question is how can I test if the pressure is too low? What would this sensor look like? How can I recharge the system without it running or does it have to be running to recharge it? Here is a picture of the are that I believe the switch to be in:  Click here for the full 2000x1500 image. I think that the switch is the one with the red but I am not certain and I don't want to mess anything up. The yellow is just a bigger and more important looking line. EDIT: I can run out and take better/different pictures if they are needed.
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Sep 6, 2010 21:49
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smackfu posted:What happens if you hit something like a mattress or a ladder on the highway? I have seen both of these recently and just know that someone not paying attention has to hit them. http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/12/17/heres-why-you-should-never-run-over-a-mattress/
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Sep 6, 2010 22:11
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smackfu posted:What happens if you hit something like a mattress or a ladder on the highway? I have seen both of these recently and just know that someone not paying attention has to hit them. In such a hypothetical collision, you would need a new car.
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Sep 6, 2010 22:12
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eddiewalker posted:http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/12/17/heres-why-you-should-never-run-over-a-mattress/ He HAD to have known he was dragging it, how can you be so clueless to have not noticed that
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Sep 6, 2010 22:15
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CommieGIR posted:As an added precaution, with the car off do an ohms check on the wire running from the alternator to the battery. Recently had a car I was working on that the guy was swearing the alternator was dead, turned out the wire had just corroded away. So, I've been reading up on the DSMTuners forum and I think I found the issue. I bought the car with a leaking power steering pump, which is directly above the alternator. My guess is that some power steering fluid leaked onto the alternator and fried it. Also, apparently the stock alternator for my car is a measly 65 amps, and a Galant alternator of the same year is 90 amps and bolts right in, so I'm going to look into that. I think I'm just going to replace the power steering pump as well as the alternator at the same time now. \/\/\/\/ -- I plan on fixing it ASAP as soon I get money for the parts. All the work I've done to this car since I've bought it (aside from the radio) has been my first time doing it. A lot of trial and error, along with swearing and trips to Sears to buy tools. Its a lot of fun and I like to learn so I don't really mind. Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 22:39
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Super Aggro Crag posted:So, I've been reading up on the DSMTuners forum and I think I found the issue. I bought the car with a leaking power steering pump, which is directly above the alternator. My guess is that some power steering fluid leaked onto the alternator and fried it. Also, apparently the stock alternator for my car is a measly 65 amps, and a Galant alternator of the same year is 90 amps and bolts right in, so I'm going to look into that. Definitely get that leak fixed, especially given its placement. Don't need another friend alternator
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Sep 6, 2010 22:42
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smackfu posted:What happens if you hit something like a mattress or a ladder on the highway? I have seen both of these recently and just know that someone not paying attention has to hit them. It really depends how high off the ground your car is. A coworker was in a tiny car (I want to say a Colt?) and a mattress came off the truck in front of him and landed under his car. His car immediately stopped and he wound up at the front of a roughly 10 car pileup. Had to be cut out of the car, spent over a month in ICU, etc. All because someone thought hauling a bed, unsecured, at about 65 mph on a major interstate was a good idea. At least the person at fault stopped and owned up.. If it's a "bro truck" it's a speedbump. If it's a tiny economy car it's almost instant death. Actually, I think the ladder would be better to hit, it's more likely to break apart and probably blow a couple of tires, while a mattress is actually pretty durable and liable to get lodged under the car. Sometimes you just don't have enough time to avoid something like this. If you just noticed it and know you can't swerve, your best option is to straddle it - i.e. try to make it pass under the center of your vehicle. If you're really lucky you get minor damage, but usually you get some decent damage... but retain enough control to get your car off the road.
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Sep 6, 2010 23:12
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:Let's fix my A/C! 1989 corolla sr5 (carburated 1.6L if that helps.) It has been updated to r134 in the past. That looks like the sensor to me. It's a two way switch that will disable the A/C if the pressure is too low or too high. There should be continuity between the two pins.
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Sep 6, 2010 23:35
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Thanks for the reply Sweevo. I just plugged in a can of r134a with stop leak and ran that through with the button on and the air on max and the clutch and compressor kicked in beautifully. When that one went out I just ran through another one with just the refrigerant. I'm surprised that the solution was so simple and that it kicked on so easily after over a year of not running.  Click here for the full 2000x1500 image. 
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Sep 7, 2010 00:09
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Why is lugging bad? I think I have a tendency to lug my engine on occasion, particularly up in my subdivision at a rolling stop, going up a small incline/hill or while slowing down to make a 90º turn.
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Sep 7, 2010 02:14
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whatupdet posted:Why is lugging bad? I think I have a tendency to lug my engine on occasion, particularly up in my subdivision at a rolling stop, going up a small incline/hill or while slowing down to make a 90º turn. Lower rpm's are where the magnitude of crank-flex and resonance are the greatest; in addition, low rpm operation decreases the swirl of the incoming fuel/air charge and you get preignition, which makes the aforementioned flexing and resonating of the crank even worse for the engine.
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Sep 7, 2010 02:31
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Questions about auto insurance... First, how is claims service with GEICO versus Progressive versus All State (especially anyone in the DC metro area)? I'm thinking of dropping Liberty Mutual, because they've got me paying $178/mo - $250 deductibles and decent liability coverages - for an '04 CVPI. All three of the aforementioned companies quote similar coverage for ~$100/mo. Along those lines, the same three are based on 6 month premiums. Should I expect the first plan/6 months to be some introductory rate, where my premium will get jacked up after the first 6 months lapse and I have to renew? Finally, I've noticed going with either of those three companies will mean I deal with some mom-and-pop type insurance agent, whereas with Liberty Mutual, I've come to enjoy helpdesk-style phone support where I'm bounced around "to the next available agent." Are there any pros/cons with to going to the insurance agent model versus the corporate model?
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Sep 7, 2010 16:14
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tkNukem posted:
Progressive tried to increase my premium by about $100 (to $650) at 6 months. I called and complained and they dropped it back down again.
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Sep 7, 2010 16:56
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