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I enjoy the thought of radio controlled boats, but where do you actually get to sail them?
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Aug 31, 2010 04:16
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Nebakenezzer posted:I enjoy the thought of radio controlled boats, but where do you actually get to sail them? Lakes, ponds or swimming pools. Basically anywhere wher you don't have strong currents. I'm lucky enough to live by many such lakes.
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Aug 31, 2010 05:01
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Xenomrph posted:You forgot to add guns to it? OK, two... No Pun Intended posted:The Devastator has 2 props. ... OK, three mistakes. I didn't have anything that looked right for the guns, and making a six bladed counter rotating prop seemed like too much effort considering I had a nice 5-bladed one right there, and besides, in the PC game the model actually has a 4-bladed prop. I actually meant that I forgot to weight the nose; it should be hanging horizontally. Shifting the support backwards would fix that, but I spent ages getting it 'right' in the first place so I'll just pretend it's some sort of 'action pose'. References: mainly screenshots from the PC game, but I also found one of the old CS books on the net as a PDF which had some (not very good) plans in it. And finally, if anyone likes Crimson Skies and hasn't read Research Indicates' 'Let's Play' thread they should do it because it got me dusting off my CD to replay the game as well as making this thing. edit: yeah, that is a really nice boat. Unkempt fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Aug 31, 2010 |
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Aug 31, 2010 09:39
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Wait, can we go back to that boat? Because it's incredible.
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Aug 31, 2010 21:06
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After an inordinate amount of research for my airship, I'm slightly stuck on the design. It's definitely going to be a vacuum airship with pre-steampunk technobabble involving Sir Isaac Newtown's dabblings in alchemy to hand-wave the whole "substance light enough to be <1g per liter and strong enough to not implode while holding a vacuum" technicality. Now I'm just torn between two layouts for the "balloon". First one, four brass or copper spheres on each mast:  Alternatively, pretend the "balloons" are tucked inside a sailcloth envelope:  Right now, I'm leaning towards the second one, since it seems more aesthetically pleasing, and wouldn't subject the crew to massive orbs of metal baking in the sun all day... I spent all day coming up with a vaguely convincing history for this thing, so yeah, I'm gonna consider the comfort of an entirely fictitious crew 
Cthulu Carl fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Sep 4, 2010 |
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Sep 4, 2010 01:21
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Ever since i bought my airbrush, i've been using Vallejo acrylic paint exclusively. I guess i never really thought about it, but is there any reason why i can't buy and use the bigger (cheaper) bottles of non-name brand acrylic paint, as long as i thin it? Paying $2.59 or so plus S&H (since my local hobby shop decided to go RC-only) for a tiny bottle of paint seems stupid, when i can get 8oz or 20oz bottles, whatever size they are, for $4 or $5, whatever they cost. Granted the selection isn't great, but i really enjoy mixing my own colors. TL;DR Any reason i can't use cheap paint in aibrush instead of more expensive stuff
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Sep 6, 2010 04:55
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FlashBewin posted:Any reason i can't use cheap paint in aibrush instead of more expensive stuff Yes and no. They could work fine, but not all acrylics are created equal. Dedicated airbrush paints usually are made of much finer particles than regular hobby paints. They differ so they shoot and flow much easier through the airbrush and onto the surface. The obvious benefits are smoother layers, less texture, finer lines etc. So it kinda depends on what your goals and skills are. And it depends on the gun you are shooting the paint with. since coarser paints are more likely to clog up the innards of the brush if not properly cleaned, I wouldn't use cheapo dolllarstore paints with any of my vintage brushes or one of those pricey Iwatas. (Also Holbein paints are the poo poo and awesome) (edit: There is no need to buy the most expensive paint, but there sure is a difference.) alcyon fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 14:31
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Cthulu Carl posted:After an inordinate amount of research for my airship, I'm slightly stuck on the design. It's definitely going to be a vacuum airship with pre-steampunk technobabble involving Sir Isaac Newtown's dabblings in alchemy to hand-wave the whole "substance light enough to be <1g per liter and strong enough to not implode while holding a vacuum" technicality. Now I'm just torn between two layouts for the "balloon". I like the first one better. The envelope just seems too big and feels a bit detached. The smaller spheres look more realistic.
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Sep 7, 2010 09:05
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uXs posted:I like the first one better. The envelope just seems too big and feels a bit detached. The smaller spheres look more realistic. Odd, I'd say the opposite is true.
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Sep 7, 2010 10:10
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Made some more progress on the chris craft. After days and days of sanding, I finally got the hull and deck stained, and layed down some fiberglass and resin on the deck.     Once the entire hull is glassed, it's days and days of more sanding in between coats of resin before varnishing.
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Sep 7, 2010 17:32
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jerkstore77 posted:I don't know jack about building boats, but I have to tell you that the inlay work you have there is absolutely beautiful!
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Sep 8, 2010 04:40
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EvilMuppet posted:Odd, I'd say the opposite is true. Yeah, I'm with the bigger sack idea. Also draping canvas over a wire frame won't be particularly difficult to do in a realistic manner.
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Sep 8, 2010 04:58
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uXs posted:I like the first one better. The envelope just seems too big and feels a bit detached. The smaller spheres look more realistic. Well given that the linked article says that a vacuum lifting cell would be 7% more efficient then hydrogen "realistic" might be, erm, the wrong term to use That Curtis-Craft is looking awesome, too!
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Sep 8, 2010 06:22
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I was thinking about getting an AH-64 Blackhawk. I recall seeing a USA website that looked to have fairly high quality models, and when you looked at the page for the model, there was a box on the right showing available accessories such as photo-etched brass detail pieces. My memory is pretty hazy, but I think the model kit was around $50 and the brass detail kit was another $30 or so. Does anybody know what online store this might have been?
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Sep 8, 2010 12:43
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Been banging out a few models lately, I'll try to do up some pictures this weekend. I did a Junk Tank Rock SEG-888 monocycle like this one: And I'm finishing up a Machinen Krieger AFS mk.1 similar to this one:  I need to touch up the paint a little, do the decals, and do the finishing spray and it'll be good to go.
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Sep 8, 2010 20:37
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I'm looking at getting an airbrush and am thinking that a CO2 cylinder would be the way to go for my needs. Can anyone explain exactly what parts I would need to go between the gun and the cylinder? Also, does anyone have any idea how long I could expect a small (5 lb?) cylinder to last when using it for airbrushing?
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Sep 9, 2010 18:53
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SkunkDuster posted:I was thinking about getting an AH-64 Blackhawk. I recall seeing a USA website that looked to have fairly high quality models, and when you looked at the page for the model, there was a box on the right showing available accessories such as photo-etched brass detail pieces. My memory is pretty hazy, but I think the model kit was around $50 and the brass detail kit was another $30 or so. Does anybody know what online store this might have been? Hopefully you mean AH-64 Apache (the Blackhawk is UH-60). Sprue Brothers has something like you describe http://store.spruebrothers.com/148-hasegawa-ah-64d-longbow-apache-7223-p6148.aspx I really like Sprue Bros, shipping is reasonable and lightning fast. If you are a beginner I'd recommend not getting detail sets - the Hasegawa Apache is a very nice kit and will be plenty fiddly without tiny brass parts. I'm fairly advanced but killed my building output dead because I had to get all the detail/correction parts, so I have literally a closet full of partially built kits. AMS - Advanced Modeler's Syndrome and it's debilitating. After about 18 months I slammed together a 1/72 scale Hobby Boss Ka-50 Black Shark and it was great.
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Sep 10, 2010 02:39
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Just finished a 1/16th Tamiya Tank Crewman. I think the face needs some work, but I'm afraid of screwing up. I don't know how to do them well    Also here's a small diorama with Zvezda Soviet Mountain Infantry I did a while back. I tried to make the uniforms look dirty and faded, but it just looks poorly painted in some places   
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Sep 10, 2010 03:37
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compressioncut posted:Hopefully you mean AH-64 Apache (the Blackhawk is UH-60). Sprue Brothers has something like you describe http://store.spruebrothers.com/148-hasegawa-ah-64d-longbow-apache-7223-p6148.aspx Huge brainfart there. Yes, I meant the Apache. Thanks for the link! I believe that is the website I was thinking of. Looks like the detail kits are sold out anyway, so I guess that won't be a concern. Do you have any idea what that die cut paint mask is for?
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Sep 10, 2010 05:32
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SkunkDuster posted:Huge brainfart there. Yes, I meant the Apache. Thanks for the link! I believe that is the website I was thinking of. Looks like the detail kits are sold out anyway, so I guess that won't be a concern. Do you have any idea what that die cut paint mask is for? Masking canopy frames - that's one aftermarket item I would absolutely recommend. They eliminate the need to trim tape around the canopy glass, which is my least favorite part of model aircraft building. Pull the pre-cut mask off the sheet, stick it on the canopy. Done. If you really want the detail stuff, check out Squadron.com or Roll Models. They're good US mail order shops. Hannants in the UK is also very good and ship internationally.
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Sep 10, 2010 14:32
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Has anyone seen this before? A Japanese TV show on modelling that introduces modellers with the blare of triumphant trumpets.
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Sep 19, 2010 21:22
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No, but I'm going to watch them now!
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Sep 20, 2010 13:36
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Nebakenezzer posted:Has anyone seen this before? A Japanese TV show on modelling that introduces modellers with the blare of triumphant trumpets. What are those flat white strips he is cutting at 9:00?
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Sep 22, 2010 04:53
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SkunkDuster posted:What are those flat white strips he is cutting at 9:00? Thin strips of plastic. He then places them on the tank, softens them with liquid cement and makes them look like welds with a sculpting tool of some sort.
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Sep 23, 2010 01:37
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I decided to look around on ebay for an airbrush and maybe a compressor, and look what I just scored! http://cgi.ebay.com/IWATA-ECLIPSE-HP-BCS-Complete-AIRBRUSH-KIT-w-Compressor-/290481521070?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a20c41ae I'll file myself under lucky today.  
toplitzin fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Sep 29, 2010 |
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Sep 29, 2010 04:07
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Spent the last couple weeks sanding, sanding, and more sanding the chris-craft until it was finally ready for its first coat of polycrylic. Now it's more sanding, then I can finally work on the running hardware and cockpit details.  
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Sep 29, 2010 16:04
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Whats the recommended paint for high use plastic items? I'm looking to paint a few Xbox controllers and cases with my new airbrush, and I'd like to know what will stick. I'm going for either glossy or matte, but smooth and polished to be comfortable either way. I've done one controller with sandpaper, tape, and Krylon Fusion, it came out nice, but orange peel and not enough control are the main issues from making me totally happy with it. Multiple layers of color, sanding with 800 to get the details/wear, up to 1200 grit wet, then 3x clear coat and 2000 grit wet sanding. Here are those results:  Click here for the full 2048x1530 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1530 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1530 image.
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Sep 30, 2010 05:06
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toplitzin posted:Whats the recommended paint for high use plastic items? I'm looking to paint a few Xbox controllers and cases with my new airbrush, and I'd like to know what will stick. I'm going for either glossy or matte, but smooth and polished to be comfortable either way. Lacquer might do the trick, it's pretty volatile stuff though.
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Sep 30, 2010 05:44
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My airbrush arrived, and seeing as how it was an estate sale find, it is of course, filthy. How do I clean it so its right as rain? Dried paint in both cups, and possibly some in the airbrush itself. The web is full of different suggestions each with a different mix of chemicals. Based on the paint contents that came with the set, it appears the PO was using acrylics. So, while I work on my model car, how do I make the airbrush good as new?
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Oct 2, 2010 22:32
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I use this stuff that will clean dried oils and can also do acrylics with a long soak. http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-brush-cleaner-and-restorer/ Take the airbrush apart and soak it all in a bowl full of that stuff for a day or two, then do some scrubbing with one of these kits: http://www.dickblick.com/products/master-airbrush-cleaning-kit/ There might be a tiny rubber gasket in the air intake valve that you probably don't want to soak in any solvents. However, there shouldn't be any paint in the air intake valve anyway, so don't soak that. The needle, body, and head assembly should be the only things with paint on them. You may be able to use Simple Green, Gasoline, Lighter fluid, or whatever poo poo you find under your kitchen sink instead of shelling out the money for that Dick Blick cleaning solvent to dissolve the paint. However, I would recommend getting that kit with the wire brushes.
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Oct 3, 2010 01:17
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toplitzin posted:My airbrush arrived, and seeing as how it was an estate sale find, it is of course, filthy. How do I clean it so its right as rain? Dried paint in both cups, and possibly some in the airbrush itself. The web is full of different suggestions each with a different mix of chemicals. Lacquer thinner will eat through about anything, and will probably be the way to go. Soak the parts in a jar of the thinner. Of course, just the parts that are exposed to paint, I have no doubt that it would wreck the air valve parts. If you know the paints were acrylics, an ammonia based glass cleaner would also probably work, while being substantially less noxious. I just did some maintenance on my Iwata HP-C, and I always forget how great it is once it's really clean. Pencil thin lines, it's really sweet.
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Oct 3, 2010 01:24
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I tried hot water and elbow grease and a bamboo skewer for the paint pot and now all is clean and a fine mist of water was sprayed across my bathroom mirror. Had to use a pair of pliers to get the needle out of the gun, it had glued itself with paint, but it slid right back in and all the paint is gone! Sprays great and the compressor is nice 'n quiet. I can't wait to break out the paints tomorrow...
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Oct 3, 2010 02:34
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Ensign Expendable posted:Just finished a 1/16th Tamiya Tank Crewman. I think the face needs some work, but I'm afraid of screwing up. I don't know how to do them well There are some tutorials on the web, like this: http://www.airfieldmodels.com/infor...lot_bust/02.htm
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Oct 3, 2010 22:18
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I'm going to finally have some new pics to post of some of the stuff I've been working on lately. I got that JunkTankRock monocycle done, I finished up a 1/72 scale Ta-183 jet, and I got some more pictures of some other other stuff I'd done. I'll try to post them in the next few days. I'm working on a BV-194 and Hetzer tank (both 1/72 scale), and still plugging away on that Ma.K Fledermaus.
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Oct 5, 2010 19:53
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I bought some hobby files made by squadron but it seems like they are wearing down pretty quickly. I'm filing the head of a metal pin, so maybe the pin itself is too hard, but does anyone know of some hobby files I can buy online that are super tough?
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Oct 6, 2010 10:28
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Yes, the pinhead is 'too hard', or certainly harder than the file was designed for. Is there any way you could use a grinding wheel on a dremel? I've got a set of diamond-coated files my wife had no use for, they clog very easily but go through anything. No brand unfortunately, sorry.
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Oct 6, 2010 21:43
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Yeah that was my next step. Wanted to try the file first for better control. I guess the pin was just 'too hard'.
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Oct 7, 2010 09:38
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Well, today I finished my first model! It's a 1:35 Bedford QL British army truck from WW2, used it North Africa. I think I did a fairly good job, given that most of it was trial & error, and I learned a few lessons to use in future models. So what do you say goons? What could I have done better? What did I do wrong?    
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Oct 12, 2010 13:11
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Wow! Great weathering. I can't see anything obvious to suggest.
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Oct 12, 2010 13:36
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Welp, I'm having trouble with paint adhesion. I've painted another xbox controller in the following manner: 400grit rough sand to help adhesion 2 coats adhesion promoter 2-3 coats acryl paint masking tape layer 2-3 second color cure finish sand before clear coat clear sand/polish When I go to smooth down the color coat with 1000 grit after 24-48hours the paint still comes right off, especially curves and corners, even with like super super feather light touch. I can go back and feather the color back in, but a once and done would be preferred. I'm trying a longer cure with some heat in the back ledge of my car today, but I'm not holding out much hope. Suggestions? Should I just give up on acryl paint and go to the automotive side of paints, lacquers, enamels? Is it perhaps my technique that needs work? I'm open to any and all suggestions. Edit: Attached are pictures of my work so far. The red/black one was done with krylon fusion rattlecan and the blue one was my first airbrush project. I'll post pictures later this afternoon of the third controller and the wear marks.  Click here for the full 640x478 image. Here they are in Picassa http://picasaweb.google.com/david.seltzer/XboxControllers?feat=directlink toplitzin fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Oct 12, 2010 |
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Oct 12, 2010 15:20
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