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!amicable posted:The dude with blood on his apron and vials of chemicals? Oh yeah, he's not the medic. No, he's the postal officer. I saw the big bags hanging off his rear end, like the postmen here have. You really aren't amicable, are you?
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Sep 7, 2010 05:05
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Those Ghosts are bomb, PV.Miles O'Brian posted:I'm having some fun playing around with train set textures. I figure these are going to look pretty nice when painted up. What are you using to cut the circles out? Just a knife, or some kind of holepunch for base-sized circles?
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Sep 7, 2010 05:11
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As promised: Alien Beaches! Will likely need a reshoot--my current setup is causing my camera to not focus      A few notes: Yes, those are real seashells and ultra-fine beach sand, baked to remove bacteria, and arranged in an appealing configuration. They will look absolutely huge next to your minis, which is pretty much what you want any ways. I purposely left room to add your own water effects on every base. Every base (as well as the Rotting Earth bases I made before) has been tested to ensure large enough area to place your models. Admittedly, some have more than others, but be creative and you'll not be disappointed. Thanks to the aforementioned beach materials, I can proudly say these bases are made with 80% recycled material!  Those figures may be slightly higher or lower, but really, do you care?If anyone is interested, send me a PM and we can talk pricing. Now, onto the next set: what would you guys like to see next? Right now what's in my head are a bare forest floor or a salt-flat badlands, but as always I'm open to suggestions.
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Sep 7, 2010 05:18
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BADLANDS!!! That's like the earth that's cracking open because of lack of moisture right? I'd buy those lickidy split. Beach bases look pretty good. I especially like the giant dead alien starfish.
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Sep 7, 2010 06:42
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Sep 7, 2010 09:43
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pw pw pw posted:Like I said in the Oath thread, those rivets really do it to it. Can't wait to see those painted up and battle-damaged.
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Sep 7, 2010 11:10
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edit: crap, wrong thread. content: pw pw pw, you're a crazy nut for hand doing all those rivets. Looks really, really good.
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Sep 7, 2010 15:30
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crime fighting hog posted:Hey guys, I picked up the GW woods set for Fantasy, and I'm thinking of painting the bark white, like birch. Any ideas how to pull it off? Not sure if we're talking about the same type of tree, but I painted some of my dryads like this: white undercoat, badab black, light dab of asurmen blue and gryphonne sepia here and there. The one on the far right: 
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Sep 7, 2010 16:05
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SRM posted:What are you using to cut the circles out? Just a knife, or some kind of holepunch for base-sized circles? As you can see from the ones on the left, I just cut them into squares and glue them onto the base. Trim them roughly with clippers leaving a millimetre or two all round, turn the base upside down and use the base edge as a guide to trim precisely with your knife, then just hit it with a file to smooth out any bumps. No special tool unfortunately. Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Sep 7, 2010 |
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Sep 7, 2010 17:54
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Here's an almost doe WIP of my first Yaokong remote, with a Shang Ji for scale. Love dat model.
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Sep 7, 2010 19:25
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Not sure if it was here or in one of the other threads, but someone was asking about the GW Mega Paint Set being discontinued. Well, it is back.quote:And at long last, the Mega Paint Set is back. It sold out so fast last year that many of you emailed us in a last attempt to get a hold of one. This year, the Mega Paint Set is again only available in limited numbers, so if you want one I'd advise ordering early. You'll notice that the Mega Paint Set is sat on its own below. Now normally, I'd suggest a thing or two that might go well with a new product but the Mega Paint Set really is a mega set - it contains every paint, Foundation paint, wash and brush. So yeah, when picking up your Mega Paint Set the only other thing you'll need is some time set aside to paint
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Sep 7, 2010 20:25
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TastyAvocado posted:Here's an almost doe WIP of my first Yaokong remote, with a Shang Ji for scale. Love dat model. I say this every time, but Im still astounded by how well a simple scheme like that works. My nomads are a clusterfuck of color compared to your models, lol
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Sep 7, 2010 20:27
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Thanks! I've always liked really simple schemes, they look amazing as a group. You have to pick the right colours though. I'm liking how they're turning out a lot! When I started, I wanted them to look like cartoons (since the last models I was painting were for my D&D campaign and I was trying to do them "realistically" - so I wanted a big departure) and I think I've succeeded.
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Sep 7, 2010 20:34
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Tasty, I know you've probably posted it before, but what's your recipe for that yellow?
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Sep 7, 2010 20:37
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Tausept Ochre with Ogryn Flesh wash, then highlighted up to Golden Yellow then Sunburst Yellow approximately like: TO base OF wash 2:1 OF-TO 1:2 OF-TO TO 2:1 TO-SY 1:2 TO-SY GY SY I paint all areas up to the pure TO, then I start doing only raised areas with the TO-SY mixes, the pure golden yellow and sunburst yellow are just on edges. Edit: That's not a mistake, I mix the TO with SY, not GY. They have slightly different hues so you could just throw in another say 4-1 TO-SY instead of the GY and it would probably be better, but I hate mixing paints when I don't have to. TastyAvocado fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Sep 7, 2010 |
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Sep 7, 2010 20:46
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I saw the big bags hanging off his rear end, like the postmen here have.
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Sep 7, 2010 21:09
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TastyAvocado posted:Here's an almost doe WIP of my first Yaokong remote, with a Shang Ji for scale. Love dat model. Nice Tau.
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Sep 7, 2010 22:19
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TastyAvocado posted:Tausept Ochre with Ogryn Flesh wash, then highlighted up to Golden Yellow then Sunburst Yellow approximately like: Nice recipe, though I'm confused as to your mixture of the Tausept and a wash.  Or am I misreading that?
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Sep 7, 2010 22:48
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Take a bit of tausept and a bit of wash and mix them together. 
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Sep 7, 2010 23:08
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I am painting up Captain Sicarius and I have tried to do some blending on the inside of his cloak and hasnt really been as sharp as I wanted it to be. It goes from dark gray to middleish gray when I wanted it to go light gray. I used some Vallejo glaze medium which helped more than my previous blending attempts. When I tried to do a light gray when working the blend it ended up looking horrible. Any blending masters in the house for any tips?
Limp Wristed Limey fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Sep 7, 2010 |
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Sep 7, 2010 23:24
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Grey paints are almost always opaque, and opaque colors are almost impossible to blend smoothly by building up layers. Id try to instead work down from a light grey base, using thin glazes of shades, so when you do highlight you can just do an edge or maybe 2 layers. That being said, youre results are really good, I dont know if Id change that.
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Sep 7, 2010 23:40
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PaintVagrant posted:Grey paints are almost always opaque, and opaque colors are almost impossible to blend smoothly by building up layers. Hoping you would be on PV thanks for the tip will use that in the future, I dont think I will mess with him now as it will only end up looking worse. I do have another question for you or anyone else, how do you secure your minis that you send out for commission work. What containers and wrapping do you use to make sure the paint work is not damaged during transit?
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Sep 7, 2010 23:45
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Aranan posted:Take a bit of tausept and a bit of wash and mix them together. Why wouldn't you just mix in a paint rather than a wash and then thin it? VVV Hey, if it works, then it works; I've just never heard of people doing it before. Do you thin it further, or does the low viscosity of the wash do the work here? bhsman fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Sep 8, 2010 |
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Sep 7, 2010 23:51
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Mixing paints with washes is awesome I do it everyday.
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Sep 8, 2010 00:46
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I've just started painting and was watching a few videos about wet blending and I have a question. In most of those videos, they mention adding paint retarder to keep the paint wet for the blending, however I can't find it at my LGS and all instances I find of it on Amazon are for acrylic paint. Does anyone know if water is fine to keep the paint fluid when working with standard Citadel and P3 paint or if there is something else I need to order?
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Sep 8, 2010 00:49
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You can look into Flow Aid, but use it sparingly as over-use tends to interfere with adhesion of the paint to your model (make sure you model has been cleaned with soapy water). Also note that most of what you buy in art stores is actually concentrate and should be thinned with water before adding it to paint.
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Sep 8, 2010 01:02
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GW/P3/VGC/VMC paints are all acrylics, so no fear using additives you can buy at an art store on those (in fact, you should, because buying them from miniature companies is a loving rip). I just keep a dropper bottle of 10:1 water:flow aid for thinning purposes, with matte medium and slo-dry at hand for making washes and wet-blending. Also started using a wet palette this week, and holy crap is it nice. So much less wasted paint, and so much more control over color mixing and thinning.
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Sep 8, 2010 01:45
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:I am painting up Captain Sicarius and I have tried to do some blending on the inside of his cloak and hasnt really been as sharp as I wanted it to be. It goes from dark gray to middleish gray when I wanted it to go light gray. I used some Vallejo glaze medium which helped more than my previous blending attempts. When I tried to do a light gray when working the blend it ended up looking horrible. Any blending masters in the house for any tips? I'm not a blending master at all but my tip is to post more pics of your stuff.
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Sep 8, 2010 02:18
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bhsman posted:Why wouldn't you just mix in a paint rather than a wash and then thin it? Well, the washes are basically the same thing as the paints, just pre-thinned and probably with a bit of flow improver of some sort in them. People use inks to tint the color of their paints fairly often, so this isn't a whole lot different.
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Sep 8, 2010 02:37
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The bases look pretty cool sole. have you cast any yet?
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Sep 8, 2010 02:44
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Fyrbrand posted:I'm not a blending master at all but my tip is to post more pics of your stuff.
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Sep 8, 2010 02:51
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I'm glad you like my models PV, I posted them on the Infinity boards and everyone is telling me to put more colours on. I want to say "but the small number of colours is the whole point!! Can't you see my vision!?" except that saying that makes me feel like some sort of mad scientist.
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Sep 8, 2010 02:52
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Theyre your models. you sound happy with them, so rock on broheim  I think theyre sweet.
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Sep 8, 2010 02:58
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I had an unbuilt Space Wolves army laying around when I decided to play Death Guard, and being the cheap man I am I decided to recycle what I could from my Space Wolves into the army. I can't decide if this is going to look really good when painted, but I got tired of spiked knees / hands, frames on every inch of armor, and top knots everywhere. Any thoughts on how good of an idea this will be? Lots of green stuff will be used of course like with my previous models (if anyone remembers my posts from about 7 months ago that is). edit: I think I've posted these guys before now that I think about it. Its what I get for being out of the loop for about 7 months Fake James fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Sep 8, 2010 |
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Sep 8, 2010 03:25
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:I am painting up Captain Sicarius and I have tried to do some blending on the inside of his cloak and hasnt really been as sharp as I wanted it to be. It goes from dark gray to middleish gray when I wanted it to go light gray. I used some Vallejo glaze medium which helped more than my previous blending attempts. When I tried to do a light gray when working the blend it ended up looking horrible. Any blending masters in the house for any tips? I agree with PV, the results look fantastic, even though it's not what you were going for. It looks like grey crushed velvet, which makes sense as a cloak lining.
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Sep 8, 2010 03:25
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PaintVagrant posted:The bases look pretty cool sole. have you cast any yet? I was thinking about getting several different kinds (4-5 sets of 5) and cast them all in one go. If there is anything that I learned from previous castings is that having a thinner mold will make it easier to remove the cast bases, and prevent mold splitting/hardening. Plus, it's more economical; the resin may be cheap, but two-part rubber is expensive.
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Sep 8, 2010 03:33
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How good are you with casting Sole? I've got some ideas for some stuff that I'd like to try and make, but I don't really have that much technical know how when it comes to casting …
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Sep 8, 2010 03:57
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:I am painting up Captain Sicarius and I have tried to do some blending on the inside of his cloak and hasnt really been as sharp as I wanted it to be. It goes from dark gray to middleish gray when I wanted it to go light gray. I used some Vallejo glaze medium which helped more than my previous blending attempts. When I tried to do a light gray when working the blend it ended up looking horrible. Any blending masters in the house for any tips? TastyAvocado posted:I'm glad you like my models PV, I posted them on the Infinity boards and everyone is telling me to put more colours on. I want to say "but the small number of colours is the whole point!! Can't you see my vision!?" except that saying that makes me feel like some sort of mad scientist. Dr. Lenin posted:I had an unbuilt Space Wolves army laying around when I decided to play Death Guard, and being the cheap man I am I decided to recycle what I could from my Space Wolves into the army. I can't decide if this is going to look really good when painted, but I got tired of spiked knees / hands, frames on every inch of armor, and top knots everywhere. 
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Sep 8, 2010 04:27
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I've always heard vallejo model colors are much more fragile than game colors, but is it a big enough difference that I need to handle them all that differently? Also, is there a base-shade-highlight chart of VMCs somewhere?
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Sep 8, 2010 04:37
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Just varnish your models and you'll be fine using VMC stuff.
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Sep 8, 2010 04:44
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