|
Combaticus posted:How good are you with casting Sole? I've got some ideas for some stuff that I'd like to try and make, but I don't really have that much technical know how when it comes to casting … I'm not bad at it from what I can tell. Really, the difficulty of the mold is entirely dependent on what it is you want to cast. If you want, feel free to send me a PM for details. Otherwise, I would recommend that you check out Alumilite's website and watch their tutorial videos. They are super helpful.
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 05:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 15:06 |
|
|
Aranan posted:Do it. Deathguard rock. Although you did say in December that you'd finish "25 marines, 2 Rhinos, and 6 bikes" by June. How'd that go? hahaha... oh boy, big E/N about that poo poo. Got into a relationship, girl didn't care too much for little space men. I put it all away to make her happy, and then just a few weeks ago she went batshit insane. Now that I am single again I actually have some spare time, but I doubt I can keep up with all the oaths. I'm aiming to finish something by the end of September, not sure what exactly yet though. Hopefully going to at least finish those marines, rhinos, and bikes before the year is over 
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 05:45
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:I'm not bad at it from what I can tell. Really, the difficulty of the mold is entirely dependent on what it is you want to cast. If you want, feel free to send me a PM for details. Otherwise, I would recommend that you check out Alumilite's website and watch their tutorial videos. They are super helpful. PM sent =)
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 06:09
|
|
|
Aranan posted:I'm just echoing what everyone has said, but I dig the blending. It's well done and the result looks quite nice. I'm still working on making my blends look that smooth. Maybe I should give some of that glaze medium a shot. Does it just make your paints a little more transparent? This is the first time I have used it. I have found with Citedal paints when you dilute them with water it can leave a patchy, pigmenty (word?) streak, like you can see each dot of pigment (which kinda makes sense). When using the glaze it makes the result more smooth and makes the paint more transparent. I would definately recommend giving it a go, just remember you dont need much in your paint mix, 1 drop will do. Think I got mine off ebay for £1.40.  This is the rat man I am still trying to sell, it really is a great sculpt considering how old it is. Anyone got a sure fire way to do skulls? I think I have pretty much tried everything and still cant get it right. Limp Wristed Limey fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Sep 8, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 07:39
|
|
|
Limp Wristed Limey posted:This is the rat man I am still trying to sell, it really is a great sculpt considering how old it is. Anyone got a sure fire way to do skulls? I think I have pretty much tried everything and still cant get it right. I've found a decent easy recipe; Dheneb Stone base Devlan Mud wash Thin Skull White highlight Devlan Mud wash Thin Skull White highlight Possibly switch one of the washes for Gryphonne Sepia for a more yellowed look.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 08:09
|
|
|
Limp Wristed Limey posted:
Old skaven own, all of them (except the very first rat ogres which just look like oversized skavenslaves) Limp Wristed Limey posted:Anyone got a sure fire way to do skulls? I think I have pretty much tried everything and still cant get it right. This is for your standard sun-bleached bone look: start with a bestial brown basecoat and keep adding bleached bone for highlights, then when you're at pure bone, add white to it for a final highlight, then wash with a dark brown. You might want to add a thinned wash of green at the end for mold, befitting something that's been hanging around a musty skaven warren. Dirty old skulls are more fun, because you can basically paint them like you would oiled leather, and then add some black, green and other washes for flavor.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 09:37
|
|
|
What's a good way to get GW blood red basecoat looking good on cloth quickly? I'm priming black, giving it a coat of mechrite red and then layers of blood red but it takes 3-4 of them to start looking solid. Should I start building up from mechrite?
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 15:27
|
|
|
If you want it quickly, you pretty much have to prime it white. Otherwise you're doing lots of coats. I guess you could maybe put some kind of grey down then start the red from that, but I pretty much never use that color so not really sure.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 15:29
|
|
|
Try ghostly grey or astro grey first, then do the red over that. Otherwise its 800 layers. Id avoid mechrite like the plague, unless you enjoy painting with nail polish
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 15:54
|
|
|
aww... Mechrite helps me paint Red Gore on my Tau and Blood Ravens. Am I doing it wrong? Granted, it's a darker red. heh.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 16:49
|
|
|
Its got its uses, I just find that its super shiny, doesnt apply that easily, and is generally an rear end backwards way to get to blood red. But whatever works! Ive definitely used it for stuff, but not for a base color to add other colors on top.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 16:58
|
|
|
I use it for purity seals (with BADABBLACK wash) because I'm lazy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 17:01
|
|
|
I definitely use it for anything that needs a dark red basecoat like Red Gore, which is surprisingly opaque. I had suspicions that it didn't work well to paint blood red, though. Good to know in case I have to paint some of those red assholes. E: Densely? loving iphone! NecronSchmecron fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Sep 8, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 17:10
|
|
|
I once painted a red model by basecoating in white, shading in black, and then painting red over the whole thing. Turned out incredibly mediocre, but that was when I was still using Tamiya model paints, and sucked more than now.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 19:21
|
|
|
Yeah, I should've thought of astro grey first, I mean mechrite works, just not as easily as I thought it would've. Now's the question of whether I should switch my method of painting, I've got half of my dwarf army painted that way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 21:30
|
|
|
Thought I'd throw my latest project that I'm rushing through so I can get back to Oathed junk: Buddy needs the team done for the Spike! Tournament this weekend -- these five are essentially done, the rest are at the highlighting stage. Opinions? edit: durr. I need to turf the bases and add a chalk line on top too. overthefalls fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Sep 8, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 22:12
|
|
|
edit ^^^ I'm a staunch supporter of black base rims, but those orange base rims look great. If you want a badass red, get Skorne Red.  Mechrite Red also smells like concentrated rear end.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 22:27
|
|
|
Aranan posted:edit ^^^ I'm a staunch supporter of black base rims, but those orange base rims look great. Graveyard Earth base is the way to go!!! Also liking the Orange base. The goblin skin is looking good, how did you do it overthefalls?
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 22:32
|
|
|
Goblin skin: Desert yellow + Thraka Green, Desert yellow / gretchin green highlights. Works like a charm and I'm still amazed at how nice it shades. I don't like dayglo green gobbos which most goblin green and higher ones are. Also, echoing Skorne Red. Amazing colour.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2010 22:51
|
|
|
Absolutely love the color scheme. Orange is stunning.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 03:19
|
|
|
gently caress mold lines. Some of them are so bad on my CSM shoulder pads that i'm going to have to file off all the 'rivets' or whatever they are just to get rid of the lines. Probably will end up springing for a few metal Deathguard pads in the end.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 06:33
|
|
|
Orange team: the sequel. Ready for pickup in the morning. There's more I'd like to do with them, but it's midnight and I work early. All in all, though, I'm happy with them and should be one of the better painted teams at the tournament. (I still need to work on highlighting.) Edit: The hell? Tinypic keeps switching the picture around. Changed image. overthefalls fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Sep 9, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 08:14
|
|
|
Gotta do something about that Chainmail on the Black Orc Blockers. Its dazzling compared to the washed, dirty look of the rest of the models. Pretty awesome though, makes me wish I could play my Orcs in a real BB game. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 14:19
|
|
|
The orcs look great! I'm probably going to buy some 40k orks and make a BB team for my cousin to use. Do you guys think it'll look good?Silhouette posted:Old skaven own, all of them (except the very first rat ogres which just look like oversized skavenslaves) Which ones were that? Because my Rat Ogres from 5th ed look a lot better than any rat ogres GW have made since  (up until the IoB and screaming bell rat ogre that is) Not a viking fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Sep 9, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 15:05
|
|
|
Ikke en viking posted:The orcs look great! I'm probably going to buy some 40k orks and make a BB team for my cousin to use. Do you guys think it'll look good? They look fine with a little work. I can't find my pics of the conversion I did but they look good.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 15:41
|
|
|
Remember to keep at least 2 tacklezones on the ball 
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 15:53
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Remember to keep at least 2 tacklezones on the ball And every downed player for a wellplaced boot.  I set a league record for fouling 14 turns in a game a few seasons ago.Fixed the picture, and I threw some P3 armor wash on the chainmail before I left for work this morning. Thanks for the kind words on it all!
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 16:53
|
|
|
Its such a bummer that the BB pc/xbox game was a piece of crap. Its such a fun game. e: also 14 fouls  I bet your opponent loved you
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 16:55
|
|
|
I did no longterm damage, oddly enough. All badly hurts and KOs -- just enough to ensure that the wood elf game was completely neutralized. Journeyman wardancer bit the dust, but it was effectively free. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 16:57
|
|
|
Quick question, Painting/Modeling thread: To anyone who has bought the Dragon Forge Lost Empires bases, are those glyphs shown on the bases part of the base itself or was it just painted on? If they're part of the base, I may just have to outfit my entire Iyanden list with them.  VVV Welp 
bhsman fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Sep 9, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 16:57
|
|
|
Part of the base themselves.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 16:58
|
|
|
So a buddy of mine is starting up a Pathfinder campaign. I'm thinking of rolling up an inquisitor and need a mini. The best one I've found is:http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Pathfinder/latest/60046#detail/60046_p_1_nic (sorry but Waffleimages is down). The problem is... I'm playing a dude. I've never done a conversion before (hell I just started painting minis again a couple of months ago), but how hard would it be to dude that figure up? I'm thinking drilling out the chest, filling with putty, and using an xacto to do some detail work. How wrong am I?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 21:31
|
|
|
bhsman posted:Quick question, Painting/Modeling thread: Theyre loving amazing bases. Well worth the cash, Jeff makes a fantastic product.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 21:46
|
|
|
Gr3y posted:So a buddy of mine is starting up a Pathfinder campaign. I'm thinking of rolling up an inquisitor and need a mini. More effort than it is worth in my estimation, keep looking. edit: Or conversely, play a woman. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Sep 9, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 21:53
|
|
|
Gr3y posted:So a buddy of mine is starting up a Pathfinder campaign. I'm thinking of rolling up an inquisitor and need a mini. I have their Iconic Bard and Alchemist. I love some of their stuff.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2010 23:27
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:More effort than it is worth in my estimation, keep looking. Fixed for you.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2010 03:19
|
|
.
|
Ikke en viking posted:
Older than that, from 3rd/4th edition. The 5e and Mordheim rat ogres are my favorites, too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2010 03:53
|
|
|
overthefalls/PaintVagrant posted:BLOOOOOOOOODBOOOOOWL! Please tell me more, the only thing that keeps from loosing all my games is my retarded dice luck
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2010 05:41
|
|
|
The absolute main tip I can give for Bloodbowl is the following: Do the important, risk free actions first! I see alot of people throwing blocks before they have stood their prone guys up or making ridiculous dodge moves before moving their free runners. And when you move on to actions that require rolls, judge them in order of necessity. Do not throw risky, single dice blocks against a wide lineman far from the field of play until you are prepared to end your turn. Also, remember that the Blitz can be used to tackle THEN move. Alot of people think of it like a charging tackle - sometimes you can use it to push a guy off you so you don't have to run through his tackle zones. Blitz is just as strong offensively as it is defensively.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2010 06:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 15:06 |
|
|
Miles O'Brian posted:I have their Iconic Bard and Alchemist. I love some of their stuff. If I don't do an inquisitor then I'm playing a summoner and using that Alchemist. The Pathfinder Iconic series is easily one of the nicest lines of RPG minis I've seen. The Exalted ones were really nice too but they're out of print. Seriously, I don't get how Reaper can just knock it out of the park with their licensed stuff while (most of) the Dark Haven line just feels so generic.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2010 07:33
|
|