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Just picked up a new 2010 GTI! The dealer is going to wash, detail, and remove their stupid badge and I'll be going in tomorrow to sign the final paperwork. I've been worried about VW's reliability since I started looking for cars. Should I get the extended warranty? Can I buy it at a later date?
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Sep 8, 2010 05:47
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scr0llwheel posted:Just picked up a new 2010 GTI! Could you Post/Pm or otherwise contact me and tell me exactly what kind of deal you cut for it?
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Sep 8, 2010 05:51
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Bob Log posted:Could you Post/Pm or otherwise contact me and tell me exactly what kind of deal you cut for it? Step 1: Demand shiny GTI Step 2: Tell them you have prices under what they are offering from XXX dealership in local area Step 3: Walk out after not getting price you want There is no "special way" to get a car for less than it's worth. Certain dealers have more room to play with than others, and unless you have an "in" at the dealership it's pretty hard to gauge how cheap you'll be able to get out the door. Buying a 2010 GTI with MD tax totaled out to a smidgen under 24k for a base GTI + DSG. This will probably end up cheaper if you're looking at 2011 GTIs as the pricing is a bit different due to "economical" packages being introduced.
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Sep 8, 2010 06:06
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I know I was just curious what he paid. I wasn't asking for a how-to :V There is a bit of finesse that can be played to get better deals. But it's always a game. For example I'm looking at a used one with 10k on the clock that they want 23.9 for. I think I can get them down to 20k which will put me at ~23 OTD. New ones being not much more expensive I'm hard pressed to not buy new. I'm also looking at WRX's so I have a lot to think about.
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Sep 8, 2010 06:53
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Bob Log posted:I know I was just curious what he paid. I wasn't asking for a how-to :V shouldn't you be telling them to lower the price since the price OTD is similar to a new GTI?
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Sep 8, 2010 07:55
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Dr. Jackal posted:shouldn't you be telling them to lower the price since the price OTD is similar to a new GTI? From what I've seen, an OTD at less than 26 is pretty unheard of. but I'm working on it. All the GTI's in my area have ridiculous packages. The cheapest I've found is actually a 2011 with the sunroof package and they quoted me 23k for it before tax and license. The dealers that have 2010's said they can't break 24k and that the dealer with the 2011 is crazy, but I know they get crazy incentives so they must not want to sell that bad.
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Sep 8, 2010 07:56
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Autism Sundae posted:my1999gsr, I found this guide to fixing rear seat latch noises (which I seem to have, didn't try tape yet): http://www.my-gti.com/2337/rear-seat-noise-rattling-clicking-and-squeaking-in-volkswagen-golf Tape on the striker is an old trick to silence rear seat rattles in hatchbacks - I had to do it in my 88 Firefly. There's a couple of approaches to fix the rattle but I prefer using a couple of the fabric stick-on things that you can buy to put on the feet of your furniture so they don't mark hardwood floors. If you stick one on the plastic trim piece that's just above the striker it should take up a little of the clearance between the seatback and the body and quiet the rattle - it's what I did on my Integra and it worked like a charm. The felt/fabric things also don't disintigrate to they tend to last much longer than tape in the latch.
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Sep 8, 2010 23:50
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I have a 1996 Audi A4 b5 1.8t, sometimes when I try to start the car, it starts and immediately dies. I've been told this is the anti-theft system, and that the key doesn't fit the tumbler right. How do I fix/circumvent this problem, if this is indeed what the problem is? Thanks
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Sep 9, 2010 00:39
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scr0llwheel posted:Just picked up a new 2010 GTI! The dealer is going to wash, detail, and remove their stupid badge and I'll be going in tomorrow to sign the final paperwork. I've been worried about VW's reliability since I started looking for cars. Should I get the extended warranty? Can I buy it at a later date? Correction: I didn't pick it up. After we agreed on a price (22k + TTL) last night, they ran my credit this morning and wouldn't approve the 0% APR. Apparently a great credit score but no loan history besides a credit card doesn't work. They tried to push me into an 8% APR and then the finance guy hung up on me after I told him this was a bait and switch. Now I'm considering a 2011. Would a car that's a year newer be worth an extra $1000 in terms of resale value?
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Sep 9, 2010 01:05
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scr0llwheel posted:Correction: I didn't pick it up. After we agreed on a price (22k + TTL) last night, they ran my credit this morning and wouldn't approve the 0% APR. Apparently a great credit score but no loan history besides a credit card doesn't work. They tried to push me into an 8% APR and then the finance guy hung up on me after I told him this was a bait and switch. Wow, that sucks. I have average credit history, all of it credit cards and a tiny ($1500) student loan, and VW Credit didn't approve me for 0% - they approved me for 1%. This was back in 2008 though, so who knows what's changed.
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Sep 9, 2010 02:26
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scr0llwheel posted:Correction: I didn't pick it up. After we agreed on a price (22k + TTL) last night, they ran my credit this morning and wouldn't approve the 0% APR. Apparently a great credit score but no loan history besides a credit card doesn't work. They tried to push me into an 8% APR and then the finance guy hung up on me after I told him this was a bait and switch. I had this happen with my '09 GTI, except with a 4% deal. They gave me some bullshit about income-to-debt ratio and bumped me to 8%. I had the cash all along, but I would have been willing to play along if my APR was only going to be 4%. I took the 8% deal and paid it off the next month with no penalty. Was that a bad idea?
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Sep 9, 2010 03:37
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A friend of mine actually had that same 8% experience at a couple Volkswagen dealerships in Sacramento and Vacaville. She has impeccable credit, owns a house and is an officer in the military but they still tried to tell her she didn't qualify for 0%. She ended up going over to the Toyota dealership because she wasn't going to take that.
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Sep 9, 2010 05:23
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Beta Ray Bill posted:I have a 1996 Audi A4 b5 1.8t, sometimes when I try to start the car, it starts and immediately dies. I've been told this is the anti-theft system, and that the key doesn't fit the tumbler right. How do I fix/circumvent this problem, if this is indeed what the problem is? Thanks Hmm. If your A4 is equipped with an immobilizer from the factory there's an easy way to tell if it's causing the problem. Turn the key to the "on" position without trying to start the car and look for a blinking icon in the gauge cluster that looks like a car with a picture of a key laid over it. If there's a light like that then it's the immobilizer, if not it's something else. An immobilizer key has a "chip" built into it that is recognized by the read coil that's built into the ignition switch/lock where you insert the key. If the read coil starts to go bad it will occasionally trigger the immobilizer. Technically the immobilizer isn't part of the ignition lock tumblers (it's just built into the assembly) so there's no mechanical part to wear out but the read coils are known to fail so it wouldn't be a big surprise if that was your problem. Another possibility is a failed G28 or G40 sensor (cam pos. sensor and engine speed sensor respectively) they can have very similar symptoms. Do you have any other keys for the car and do they work ok?
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Sep 9, 2010 19:30
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This may not be the right place, but does anyone happen to have a VAGCOM cable and SW for a B8 Audi in MA? Apparently all it takes is 10 minutes and changing one bit to make my passenger side mirror move down when in reverse. My last car had that feature and it makes parallel parking so much easier.
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Sep 9, 2010 19:40
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teh jhey posted:I had this happen with my '09 GTI, except with a 4% deal. They gave me some bullshit about income-to-debt ratio and bumped me to 8%. I had the cash all along, but I would have been willing to play along if my APR was only going to be 4%. Is this kind of shady accounting true for all VWOA or just some shady dealers? I've never actually had a car payment other than from the Bank of Mom for my current car. (Bank wouldn't give me a loan lower than 7.5% on a private sale vehicle). I think its funny how they give you the income to debt ratio run around then charge you MORE. That seems a bit backwards eh. On an 04/05 jetta how far should my sunroof open? The other day it kind of wierded out on me as if it jammed (pinch sensor) and then stopped. So I closed it and opened again and it went all the way into the roof. I have never been able to get it to open that far again. Normal operation is about 2 inches of the sunroof left when fully open.
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Sep 9, 2010 21:56
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SwashedBuckles posted:This may not be the right place, but does anyone happen to have a VAGCOM cable and SW for a B8 Audi in MA? Apparently all it takes is 10 minutes and changing one bit to make my passenger side mirror move down when in reverse. My last car had that feature and it makes parallel parking so much easier. I had to look it up and mine doesn't work on can-bus cars like yours but if anyone needs VAG-COM in northern CT for non-can cars your welcome to come use it as long as your not really crazy or anything. One of the coolest things I did with it was to make my windows roll up and down with the remote on my B5 Audi (when they weren't doing it on their own) plus checking codes, ect.
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Sep 9, 2010 22:32
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Well I figured out what was wrong with my car. Few months ago I took it into a dealer to replace the door module and they found the battery failed the amperage test. I thought I could fix it by just filling the cells with distilled water. All was good. Until it did the same thing this morning (but triggered a CEL with the same error code). Eventually I got the car started and the battery replaced.
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Sep 10, 2010 02:34
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Kind of a broad question, but I'm still diagnosing some transmission issues and I don't have a Bentley Manual. How exactly does the Tiptronic auto transmission system work? I'm used to older autos with vacuum line systems where lots of issues could be traced back to vacuum leaks, but I'm not finding much info regarding the setup on Audis. If I'm trying to diagnose an issue, would I be more likely to look for corrosion/wiring problems as opposed to vacuum leaks?
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Sep 10, 2010 07:49
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Neon Machete posted:Kind of a broad question, but I'm still diagnosing some transmission issues and I don't have a Bentley Manual. How exactly does the Tiptronic auto transmission system work? I'm used to older autos with vacuum line systems where lots of issues could be traced back to vacuum leaks, but I'm not finding much info regarding the setup on Audis. If I'm trying to diagnose an issue, would I be more likely to look for corrosion/wiring problems as opposed to vacuum leaks? I don't know anything about this stuff, but maybe this has the kind of info you are looking for: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_228_d1.pdf
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Sep 10, 2010 08:09
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JHVH-1 posted:I don't know anything about this stuff, but maybe this has the kind of info you are looking for: Aww, I got excited when I saw that there were 100 pages...but it's for CVTs, not Tiptronics. Still might be an interesting read regardless! Edit: I checked out that site and it has an amazing wealth of information. I found documentation for my transmission but it is in German. Apparently this is how my transmission works: 
Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Sep 10, 2010 |
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Sep 10, 2010 08:31
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Heres the index to the english PDFs: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/index_eng.php/ 300 - 6-Speed Automatic Transmission 09D That ones not CVT and mentions tiptronic, but it might not be the same exact transmission.
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Sep 10, 2010 17:33
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Pipkin posted:I had to look it up and mine doesn't work on can-bus cars like yours but if anyone needs VAG-COM in northern CT for non-can cars your welcome to come use it as long as your not really crazy or anything. One of the coolest things I did with it was to make my windows roll up and down with the remote on my B5 Audi (when they weren't doing it on their own) plus checking codes, ect. Thanks anyways, Pipkin. I may end up just scraping the cash together to buy my own since it looks like there are a ridiculous number of things you can tweak (ruin) with it.
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Sep 10, 2010 18:25
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Took off my belly pan and it looks like both of my turbos pissed oil all over the wiring for my transmission electronics. So I think I solved my problem...while discovering an even bigger one in the process. I guess since it looks like I'm going to have to pull the engine and swap out the turbos, I might as well upgrade to K04s (from the Audi RS4) while I'm in there, as well as maybe a beefed up torque converter (which is oh-so-painful to do since I just dropped 2,300 getting it replaced. Oh well). Maybe it's about time to pop my project thread cherry? I haven't seen any Audi ones around during my time here...
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Sep 10, 2010 21:03
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my1999gsr posted:Hmm. If your A4 is equipped with an immobilizer from the factory there's an easy way to tell if it's causing the problem. Turn the key to the "on" position without trying to start the car and look for a blinking icon in the gauge cluster that looks like a car with a picture of a key laid over it. If there's a light like that then it's the immobilizer, if not it's something else. An immobilizer key has a "chip" built into it that is recognized by the read coil that's built into the ignition switch/lock where you insert the key. If the read coil starts to go bad it will occasionally trigger the immobilizer. Technically the immobilizer isn't part of the ignition lock tumblers (it's just built into the assembly) so there's no mechanical part to wear out but the read coils are known to fail so it wouldn't be a big surprise if that was your problem. Another possibility is a failed G28 or G40 sensor (cam pos. sensor and engine speed sensor respectively) they can have very similar symptoms. Do you have any other keys for the car and do they work ok? Thanks it's definitely the read coils, so what do I do to fix it? Do I get a new key made, do I buy a new tumbler and key assembly? I appreciate the help.
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Sep 11, 2010 02:11
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Neon Machete posted:Kind of a broad question, but I'm still diagnosing some transmission issues and I don't have a Bentley Manual. How exactly does the Tiptronic auto transmission system work? I'm used to older autos with vacuum line systems where lots of issues could be traced back to vacuum leaks, but I'm not finding much info regarding the setup on Audis. If I'm trying to diagnose an issue, would I be more likely to look for corrosion/wiring problems as opposed to vacuum leaks? The tiptronic doesn't use any vacuum at all to operate - even if it did you'd have faults for lean running conditions in your engine before any faults showed up in your TCM. It's a very good start to look for corrosion at any of the plugs for the transmission though.
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Sep 11, 2010 02:48
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Beta Ray Bill posted:Thanks it's definitely the read coils, so what do I do to fix it? Do I get a new key made, do I buy a new tumbler and key assembly? I appreciate the help. No need for new keys if it's the read coil that's gone bad but you'll have to order a new lock cylinder since the read coil is integrated into it. You order the lock cylinder by your car's VIN and it'll come cut for the keys you already have. They usually come direct from Germany but it takes a week or less (usually) for it to arrive.
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Sep 11, 2010 03:00
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my1999gsr posted:No need for new keys if it's the read coil that's gone bad but you'll have to order a new lock cylinder since the read coil is integrated into it. You order the lock cylinder by your car's VIN and it'll come cut for the keys you already have. They usually come direct from Germany but it takes a week or less (usually) for it to arrive. Thanks, I'll let ya know if this fixes the problem. I agree with you though, that's what I thought it was too. On another note, has anyone around here done a vr6 turbo swap into an a4 1.8t quattro? If not I'm just going to build what I have.
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Sep 11, 2010 17:20
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I have a 2005 A4 1.8T that had a severed oil level sensor wire, obviously generating a caution light. A local shop soldered together a new pigtail harness to replace the cut one, but now the caution light comes and goes every few minutes. In the middle of this, I got a CEL for P2181, "cooling system performance". Is there any way the shorting harness on the oil level sensor caused a coolant temperature sensor failure, or is it just an unlucky coincidence? This shop has really given me crappy service of late, and I want to know if this is grounds for laying into them.
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Sep 11, 2010 20:30
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So, for a class project, I'm trying to splice a microcontroller in between my 98 VW Golf's RF module and the rest of the car's electronics. I can see the module, which sits to the left of my steering wheel behind all the paneling, but I've been having a hard time getting at it. There's just a ton of paneling in front of it that I need to take off. Are there any guides that detail how to temporarily remove all of the detachable dashboard paneling for a given car? Or is it plausible to pay a mechanic or the dealer to show me how to take it off?
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Sep 11, 2010 20:45
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Understeer posted:I have a 2005 A4 1.8T that had a severed oil level sensor wire, obviously generating a caution light. A local shop soldered together a new pigtail harness to replace the cut one, but now the caution light comes and goes every few minutes. In the middle of this, I got a CEL for P2181, "cooling system performance". Is there any way the shorting harness on the oil level sensor caused a coolant temperature sensor failure, or is it just an unlucky coincidence? This shop has really given me crappy service of late, and I want to know if this is grounds for laying into them. Unlucky coincidence. Usually that fault is VW-ese for "your thermostat is bad". There's an outside possibility that you've got a bad water pump but the majority of times I see that fault it ends up with a bad t-stat.
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Sep 12, 2010 03:28
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Exitlights posted:So, for a class project, I'm trying to splice a microcontroller in between my 98 VW Golf's RF module and the rest of the car's electronics. I can see the module, which sits to the left of my steering wheel behind all the paneling, but I've been having a hard time getting at it. There's just a ton of paneling in front of it that I need to take off. Are there any guides that detail how to temporarily remove all of the detachable dashboard paneling for a given car? Or is it plausible to pay a mechanic or the dealer to show me how to take it off? Can you post a pic of the part of the dash you need removed? I don't see many A3-style Golfs anymore so I need to see it to remember how to disassemble it.
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Sep 12, 2010 03:30
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I'm thinking of getting either a MKIV Jetta or GTI VR6. I know that the Jettas are notoriously spotty in terms of problems, but how are the GTIs? Most of the cars I've looked at all have fairly high kilometers. On an engine that has been maintained, what kind of life can you typically get out of it? For instance, one car I'm looking at is a 2000 Jetta VR6 with around 200,000km. I'm not sure if I should keep looking for one that has lower mileage or if it is alright if the maintenance has been done on a regular basis. Additionally, as the VR6's use a timing chain, when do they need replacement? From what I've seen online, people only replace them when they start making noise typically.
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Sep 12, 2010 04:20
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Humdrum Hoodlum posted:Additionally, as the VR6's use a timing chain, when do they need replacement? From what I've seen online, people only replace them when they start making noise typically. My only experience is with MK3 VR6s and I'm not sure if the (12V) MK4s ones are exactly the same but the tensioners and guides are done for at 150k miles whether they are making noise or not. The last one I did was a 96 with 160k-ish miles and the upper teflon-coated guide was wearing through into the tensioner, quietly. The upper tensioner uses oil pressure and I can only imagine that the chain would have cut far enough into it to release the oil pressure and tension and it would have jumped time. In short, the 12V VR6 chains are NOT lifetime and I wouldn't wait for them to make noise.
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Sep 12, 2010 22:02
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my1999gsr posted:Can you post a pic of the part of the dash you need removed? I don't see many A3-style Golfs anymore so I need to see it to remember how to disassemble it. Sure, here's a few I just snapped. Here's a picture of the full dash, more or less:  Click here for the full 768x576 image. Under the steering wheel, panel removed:  Click here for the full 768x576 image. Hey there little buddy  what I'm pretty certain is the RF module (the white thing): Click here for the full 768x576 image. So, the panel that's in front of the RF module is the full dash piece you see in the first picture. The piece extends all the way to the passenger door. Let me know if you need to see anything else. Exitlights fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Sep 12, 2010 |
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Sep 12, 2010 22:59
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Exitlights, here is the best I can remember from the last time I did it: The piece all the way to the left next to the headlight switch pulls right out. Then take out the switch out by pushing in on the tab you uncover by removing the piece on the left, pull it straight out and unplug it. After that take the air vent out CAREFULLY by pulling it straight out, I use pliers covered with cloth to grab the horizontal vane to do it. Then remove all the screws that you uncover and take out the panel that is in the way. I think you have to unsnap it from the panel that goes around the gauge cluster, IIRC. After that you should be able to get to all the nuts that secure the RF module.
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Sep 12, 2010 23:28
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I'm looking at a 2001 GTI VR6 with 175,000km for $3500. It seems to be in good condition, the only problem is that the check engine light is on. He also said it sometimes takes two attempts to start it, and that sometimes when he floors it it chugs a little. He told me that he took it to a mechanic and was told it was an electrical issue of some sort and it would cost anywhere from $800-$1000 to find and fix the issue. Is this a car worth seriously considering or should I avoid it?
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Sep 13, 2010 02:27
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Pipkin posted:Exitlights, here is the best I can remember from the last time I did it: The piece all the way to the left next to the headlight switch pulls right out. Then take out the switch out by pushing in on the tab you uncover by removing the piece on the left, pull it straight out and unplug it. After that take the air vent out CAREFULLY by pulling it straight out, I use pliers covered with cloth to grab the horizontal vane to do it. Then remove all the screws that you uncover and take out the panel that is in the way. I think you have to unsnap it from the panel that goes around the gauge cluster, IIRC. After that you should be able to get to all the nuts that secure the RF module. I couldn't have said it better myself! You may want to have some fabric tape around to silence any potential rattles during reassembly.
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Sep 13, 2010 03:42
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Humdrum Hoodlum posted:I'm looking at a 2001 GTI VR6 with 175,000km for $3500. It seems to be in good condition, the only problem is that the check engine light is on. He also said it sometimes takes two attempts to start it, and that sometimes when he floors it it chugs a little. He told me that he took it to a mechanic and was told it was an electrical issue of some sort and it would cost anywhere from $800-$1000 to find and fix the issue. Is this a car worth seriously considering or should I avoid it? Stay away from it unless you can afford to have a mechanic you trust diagnose it's problems before you buy it. A problem like you're describing could be many many things, some of them cheap and easy to fix, others very much not cheap or easy to fix so tread carefully. I'd guess it's got a bad coil pack but I also wouldn't rule out a bad injector (or 2 or 3 or all of them) but those are just guesses without more information.
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Sep 13, 2010 03:48
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Can't believe I didn't see this thread. I'm cross-posting this from the dumb questions thread. I've got my 1989 Saab 900 Turbo for sale at $2500 on craigslist. A kid comes by to check it out and wants the car pretty badly. However, he hasn't sold his own vehicle yet. Though, he drove it here and asks me if I'm interested in a trade before he continues his sales efforts. Was is this car? A 2000 Volkswagen Golf with a VR6 he tells me. The only catch... it's a salvage title. Here are two pictures I quickly took. https://wi.somethingawful.com/af/af7c88c837a156e991a73419c60a35d98d1f514b.jpg https://wi.somethingawful.com/1e/1e65fd093b4cad899a5e93b5a41b9d318666f37d.jpg It was hit on the passenger side. My father quickly inspected it and said it was a pretty bad hit. He mentioned something about them having to jack it out and said there was a possibility of shims being used. Nothing solid, but just his advice on what could have been. Also, the windshield is cracked pretty badly. I didn't inquire about this, but I should. Again, my fathers advice is the windshield potentially could have cracked because of an uneven line in the body. The ABS light is on. Apparently, the owner said he had it scanned and it threw just a bunch of ABS codes. Are these related mostly to the wheel sensors? I'm also told it needs a drivers side tie rod. I hope it doesn't pull to one side or something and this guys trying to pawn it off on a suspension component. It has a dieselgeek short shifter and the owner tells me it's finicky. That's another thing that has to be looked into. Welp, that's definitely a nice list of problems. Anyone think a car of that nature is worth roughly $2500? Here's my car for reference and what not.  http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/cto/1931584327.html
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Sep 13, 2010 19:16
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Tsu posted:Can't believe I didn't see this thread. I'm cross-posting this from the dumb questions thread. A salvage title always makes me a little nervous, particularly on a vehicle that's going to be daily-driven. ABS faults are common enough and they're typically due to bad wheel speed sensors although I've seen bad ABS control modules too. My gut says stay away from this car - there's just too many questionable things about it unless you're planning on turning it into a track-only car.
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Sep 13, 2010 21:15
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