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Anyone have recommendations for a clutch/flywheel for a pure track/autox car (trailer queen)? I'm looking at the 1.6L Fidanza flywheel, not sure on the clutch. Anyone know what happened with Fidanza? You used to be able to buy their stuff at a lot more places (949racing), the most reputable I see now is Jegs. http://www.jegs.com/i/Fidanza/383/161161/10002/-1?parentProductId=755906 I'm a bit at a loss about the clutch. Are the disadvantages of not having a sprung clutch relevant for a car that isn't daily driven? I'm thinking the 4 puck ACT clutch. It's good to 250 ft*lbs which is more than I'll likely ever make with this motor. http://www.gomiata.com/actmipe4padr.html or the F1 racing clutch. Cheap as gently caress and 215 ft*lbs is good enough. Only thing I can guess about this one is that it's heavy. No weight listed but another model by the same manufacturer is listed as heavier than stock. http://949racing.com/F1-clutch-miata-stage-3.aspx Finding weights on these guys is a bit difficult.
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Sep 8, 2010 00:08
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FatCow posted:Anyone have recommendations for a clutch/flywheel for a pure track/autox car (trailer queen)? http://949racing.com/twindiscclutchmiata.aspx Hands down the best clutch available for a trailer-queen car. Reduced wear on transmission synchros, extreme weight loss, lower MOI, will probably last forever based on the wear users have seen. It's not something I'd want to DD, but it is an absolute dream on the track and you can still slip it up onto the trailer with ease. If you can't stomach the price, look for a used Fidanza and go with an ACT HD or an FM clutch.
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Sep 8, 2010 07:30
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That twin disc clutch looks awesome. If I could justify the price I'd get it. I'm sure I'll end up with the F1 flywheel and Stage 3 ceramic clutch for ~$370 Just ordered this scan tool: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Auto...emZ260408845302 I will let you all know how it works and what code(s) I pull aventari fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 9, 2010 06:59
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I'm going to guess "barely"
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Sep 9, 2010 07:21
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Random ebay find: custom sunroof'ed hardtop Waffleimages down, sorry if pic dies.Looks pretty classy.
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Sep 9, 2010 08:20
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Neat
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Sep 9, 2010 13:23
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Pulled the trigger on the 949 clutch. Going to start getting the old motor out today. Anyone know how well the 1997 ECU will run a 2001 motor? It's going to take me a bit to get a MS3 built and installed.
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Sep 9, 2010 15:06
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The '97 ECU should run the '01 motor, provided you swap over the required sensors etc. It will most likely be running very lean in open loop (full throttle) because the '01 motor flows much better. I wouldn't track it or drive aggresively, but it should be fine temporarily as transport. You'll have to do some research on which fuel injectors you want to use. The '99+ are a better design with much better atomization, but require 60psi fuel pressure. The '01+ flow slightly more than the '99-'00 at 60psi. I think the '94-'97s use 45psi, and I know from personal experience that dropping in '99 injectors into a '96 motor without adjusting the fuel pressure make the engine run extremely lean, dangerously lean.
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Sep 9, 2010 17:58
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I guess for now I could throw a meter on the stock narrowband to get an idea if it's leaning out at WOT. Switchover for the narrowband from 1 to 0v should be somewhere around stoich right? I currently only have the NA fuel system, I can still pick up the injectors/rail that came with this motor if need be. The Internet leads me to believe that the NB rail with NA injectors/FPR is the way to go. I need to see for myself that the NA rail won't fit before I pick up the NB rail. Should be an interesting project, hopefully I'll have it back together by mid October. [edit] The area above my tailpipe leads me to believe I'm running very rich at WOT currently. Washing it would ruin my data collection 
FatCow fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 9, 2010 19:11
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How would you know since you never wash your car. *hasn't driven his car in a month* *it looks like total loving hell*
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Sep 9, 2010 19:27
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FatCow posted:I guess for now I could throw a meter on the stock narrowband to get an idea if it's leaning out at WOT. Switchover for the narrowband from 1 to 0v should be somewhere around stoich right?
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Sep 9, 2010 23:41
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Likely LC-1. I'm planning on doing standalone MS once I get one assembled and working. The car isn't going to be on the street so I don't need A/C or OBD-II emissions poo poo.
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Sep 10, 2010 00:20
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I tried using the narrow band output on my LM1 and had nothing but trouble. I gave up. Didn't realize other people had issues too though
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Sep 10, 2010 05:23
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Piano posted:Random ebay find: custom sunroof'ed hardtop Some people are immune to irony
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Sep 11, 2010 04:05
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I drove my Miata year round in Southern Ontario. I pretty much kept the hardtop on from November to April except for a few times to go snow drifting in parking lots. It's a lot more fun with the roof off. I would have loved a sunroof in my hardtop.
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Sep 11, 2010 11:31
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Just got my '91 back from the shop - they replaced the water pump, timing belt, thermostat, accessory belts. Car seems to run fine, holds temperature well. Only thing is, it sounds like there's a straight-cut gear in there now - whining like a supercharger. Is that normal for an OEM waterpump?
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Sep 11, 2010 18:57
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Krakkles posted:Just got my '91 back from the shop - they replaced the water pump, timing belt, thermostat, accessory belts. Car seems to run fine, holds temperature well. Only thing is, it sounds like there's a straight-cut gear in there now - whining like a supercharger. Is that normal for an OEM waterpump? No, and based on the video someone posted earlier, it sounds like they set the tension way too tight on the timing belt.
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Sep 11, 2010 19:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:No, and based on the video someone posted earlier, it sounds like they set the tension way too tight on the timing belt. Hmmm. How hard is that to correct? How serious of a problem if I leave it?
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Sep 11, 2010 19:39
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You'd basically need to redo a good chunk of the job to get to it. It'll cause the belt to wear out prematurely. If it sounds like this that's it. You won't necessarily need to remove the belt to reset tension on it; you should only need to remove enough to get at and reset the tensioner, but if something slips while you do it, then you're going to have to pull everything apart to reset it. \/\/ Better idea. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Sep 11, 2010 |
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Sep 11, 2010 19:43
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You don't need to do anything. Take it back to the shop and tell them to put the proper amount of tension on it.
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Sep 11, 2010 19:48
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I talked to them, they said no problem. I'll run it over next weekend.
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Sep 11, 2010 20:09
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AI, please diagnose my clutch.   Yes, that was all that remained of the pilot bearing, maybe 2-3 balls got away from me but that's it. TOB is fine.
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Sep 11, 2010 20:30
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You should probably run some seafoam in it.
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Sep 11, 2010 20:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:You'd basically need to redo a good chunk of the job to get to it. It'll cause the belt to wear out prematurely. The worst part of a TB job is the crank bolt and getting the belt lined up - re-tensioning should be a 30 minute affair. Pull the VC, the first two plastic covers, and it's exposed - set tension per the FSM and then tighten it back up. Spin the motor over twice and re-check and you're done. But yeah, if you had a shop do it, then take it back.
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Sep 11, 2010 20:33
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I've been following that guy doing the 2jz swap. It's a shame that engine is just plain way too tall. It's gonna look pretty silly in the end.
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Sep 15, 2010 01:26
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probably heavy as hell too
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Sep 15, 2010 01:42
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What do you guys think of this? http://www.grahamgoode.com/website/parts.php?website=16&item=11540001
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Sep 15, 2010 01:43
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willie_dee posted:What do you guys think of this?
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Sep 15, 2010 01:48
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A quick question, is the crank pully bolt reverse threded?
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Sep 15, 2010 03:08
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destructo posted:Garbage. Buy a BEGI-S kit instead. Is there a supplier in the UK?
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Sep 15, 2010 03:28
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rowebot44 posted:A quick question, is the crank pully bolt reverse threded? Not on my 99
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Sep 15, 2010 03:39
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IIRC it's threaded normally on my 95.
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Sep 15, 2010 04:03
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willie_dee posted:Is there a supplier in the UK? Pretty sure when you order stuff from begi it takes a month to ship anyway so a few more days to make it overseas isn't a big deal, heh.
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Sep 15, 2010 05:24
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Thank you guys for the information.
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Sep 15, 2010 05:25
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rowebot44 posted:A quick question, is the crank pully bolt reverse threded? You can take it off with the starter if need be. Just did it on Phone's Miata a few weeks ago. Any suggestions on how to take that bolt off when the engine is on a stand? Got my engine out. The new clutch is sitting on my kitchen table. Megasquirt and other bits to complete the swap are in the mail. Hopefully I can get everything done by next weekend.
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Sep 15, 2010 14:49
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In other news, is any play on the transmission input shaft normal? You can see what my pilot bearing looked like and I have some play on the input shaft, wondering if I should tear that apart while it's out.
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Sep 15, 2010 18:24
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FatCow posted:Any suggestions on how to take that bolt off when the engine is on a stand? When I have a motor on a stand and the oil pan off, I jam a block of wood between the crankshaft counterweights and the block wall. It stops the crank from turning and doesn't score anything up. Then hit the bolt with an impact gun or a big-rear end breaker
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Sep 15, 2010 19:25
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Does anyone have any experience with the Cobalt brand catback exhaust systems for sale on miatamania? $349 seems like a decent price and they've been known to go on sale. My current muffler is rusted through in several places and needs to be replaced.
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Sep 16, 2010 00:38
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FatCow posted:Any suggestions on how to take that bolt off when the engine is on a stand? I took a piece of metal with holes in it from Ace hardware and bent it up a bit, put a bolt through one hole into one of the pressure plate bolts on the flywheel and one longer one through one of the tranny holes in the block. How much play are you seeing radially on the input shaft? Mine had a decent amount on the one I boned, maybe like 1/16 or 1/8" (can't remember but it's sitting in the garage, can recheck if necessary) and the used one I picked up that shifts very well had a small amount of wiggle to it.
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Sep 16, 2010 02:44
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Blackdawgg posted:Does anyone have any experience with the Cobalt brand catback exhaust systems for sale on miatamania? $349 seems like a decent price and they've been known to go on sale. My current muffler is rusted through in several places and needs to be replaced.
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Sep 16, 2010 04:57
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