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komradekommissar posted:Hello, Don't know if it still dies immediately when the cooling fan kicks in since it was started, idled for a few minutes, then shut off and restarted. Turning it to "ON" to prime the pump does nothing, and continuing to crank floods the engine. It's probably not a bad idea to replace the distributor at this point, but that's fairly expensive at $160 for the entire rebuild kit. Why would the hall sender affect function when the car is warm but not when it's cold? The only thing I can think of (and I have no evidence or previous experience to back this up) is that the car does something different with the spark when it starts from cold as opposed to warmed up (maybe massively retarded timing?) Spark plugs & wires are basically brand new (from last spring). Still have to check the coolant temperature sensor as well - it looks like we were pulling the wrong sensor thinking it was the CTS. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Sep 17, 2010 |
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Sep 17, 2010 16:51
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:EDIT: The serpentine belt was shredded. I went to a garage a block away. They are going to get back to me this afternoon. Update.... Bearing in the pulley tensioner went bad. Parts and labor $432.00 and they should be done in a couple of hours. That price seems a little high to me, but I keep telling myself it could have been much worse, and the fact I should get it back this afternoon is great. Thanks again.
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Sep 17, 2010 18:15
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Autism Sundae posted:On a serious note, it's pretty drat easy to tell if one of your speakers is out - just shift sound output to that spot (left front for example) and listen to the speakers. Is yours completely out or just not up to spec? Finally did this, it's definitely blown. Happens at multiple frequencies, and causes my sunglasses thing to pop open from all the rattling. Anyone know a quick fix for the sunglasses holder?
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Sep 17, 2010 18:21
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Update.... Bearing in the pulley tensioner went bad. Parts and labor $432.00 and they should be done in a couple of hours. Parts are probably a fraction of that, no more than $100 unless VW managed to invent some strange unobtainium tensioner design, but doing belts on a FWD (particularly a 6 cylinder) tends to involve cramped areas and sometimes undoing engine mounts, so most of that cost will be labor. The cost sounds reasonable to me.
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Sep 17, 2010 21:24
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wolrah posted:Parts are probably a fraction of that, no more than $100 unless VW managed to invent some strange unobtainium tensioner design, but doing belts on a FWD (particularly a 6 cylinder) tends to involve cramped areas and sometimes undoing engine mounts, so most of that cost will be labor. The cost sounds reasonable to me. Just remember, most VW jobs are 3-4 hours minimum by the book and even the shadiest mechanic charges 50 bucks an hour. So that's about right. When my waterpump ate itself, I think it cost me around 300 extra to have the timing belt done.
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Sep 17, 2010 21:40
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Thanks. Just a general question.... They want to do a diagnostic cause an engine light is still on. Probably still from the stuttering it does sometimes, explained earlier. This "diagnostic" is $84, but is it much more than pulling codes for free at Autozone? I just had this car at the dealership a month ago. They pulled codes but they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They said "it may be the MAF Sensor, but we don't want to charge you for that if we aren't sure." I actually thanked them for not trying to screw me. The stuttering and the light came back a couple of days later.
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Sep 17, 2010 21:53
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MrOnBicycle posted:Thanks for the answer! I dont know about euro versions, but check vwvortex for rough pricing: http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?833-Scirocco-Cars There may be some euro ppl selling cars there. If that 77 is rust free, then $1600 sounds like a good deal to me. It does look clean from the pics
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Sep 17, 2010 22:04
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aventari posted:I dont know about euro versions, but check vwvortex for rough pricing: http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?833-Scirocco-Cars Thanks. I've been poking around some more and drat Mk1's are hard to find. Which makes me suspicious. As much as I'm interested in a Scirocco MK1 and like the looks of it, this kinda make me a bit  . Not that I'm planning to buy and resell. But it'd be nice to that it'd be able to sell for a decent buck in the future.
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Sep 17, 2010 22:46
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That little knob the string that makes the shelf in the hatch go up when you open the trunk broke off somehow on my gti. I haven't found the piece anywhere yet to try crazy glue it back on. It looks like its part of that whole plastic piece on the back too. Does that all have to be replaced just to fix it? I hadn't even been storing anything in the cargo net on the shelf or anything, so I don't know how to broke already.
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Sep 17, 2010 23:22
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Hatebreed posted:Haldex, turbo, DSG flash... where do you want to start? Keep in mind it will never be "fast" unless you're dumping 10k into a cobbled together HPA kit. Lose the wheels. My mom had a 1.8L Turbo like 8 years ago. I just remember at the time (and even more so today) being able to find all sorts of chips and kits, turbo upgrades, etc. When I visit the plethora of sites I have looked at, most upgrades once I narrow down model year turn out to be light bulbs, badges, and other misc crap. While I don't have 10k to throw away today, I plan on keeping the car for a long while. (I just am a sucker for the look, and it doesn't have all that many miles), and would eventually like to get it up over 300hp to start. As you mentioned, I'd love to turbo charge it or something to start, but searches have been unfruitful. Thanks for info.
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Sep 17, 2010 23:30
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Hatebreed posted:Finally did this, it's definitely blown. Happens at multiple frequencies, and causes my sunglasses thing to pop open from all the rattling. The speaker is distorting so badly that your sunglass holder is popping open? I've had some pretty bass-heavy VW's in the shop but I've never seen one that was so bad that it could pop open that holder. Maybe the holder is boned too.
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Sep 17, 2010 23:46
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JHVH-1 posted:That little knob the string that makes the shelf in the hatch go up when you open the trunk broke off somehow on my gti. I haven't found the piece anywhere yet to try crazy glue it back on. Post me a pic of your hatch cover and the tether string and I'll tell you want you need to fix it. There's been a couple of different designs so pics will help.
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Sep 17, 2010 23:48
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Update.... Bearing in the pulley tensioner went bad. Parts and labor $432.00 and they should be done in a couple of hours. Not too bad a deal at all - the accessory belt tensioner in a VR6 isn't the easiest thing in the world to replace - there's really limited space to work in there.
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Sep 17, 2010 23:50
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Thanks. In the engine ECU there's 2 values you can look at to help determine if the MAF was bad. Hopefully the dealership technician knew enough to look at those values because they're pretty fool-proof when diagnosing a bad MAF. In case you need the info, the values are in measure value block 32 in Engine Electronics. In the value block there are 2 numbers and for the MAF to pass they must be withing 10% of each other. If they're not within 10% then the MAF is bad and should be replaced. Did the shop give you a printout with the fault codes on it?
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Sep 17, 2010 23:59
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High_Life posted:Alright I need some help. I purchased a 2006 3.2L Audi TT (MKI) last January, and have been trying to find out things about it. (Can I turbo/super charge it, mods, exhaust, this that and the other). Like DogDodger said, its not one of the 99 cars - in fact we have one identical to yours on the lot right now (with a pimp red leather interior!). I haven't seen any serious performance mods for the 3.2 engine yet but I'm sure there's some out there - it's just such a tight engine bay for add-ons and the VR engine design lacks the room for a supercharger in place of the intake manifold like the V-design engines do.
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Sep 18, 2010 00:15
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my1999gsr posted:Like DogDodger said, its not one of the 99 cars - in fact we have one identical to yours on the lot right now (with a pimp red leather interior!). I haven't seen any serious performance mods for the 3.2 engine yet but I'm sure there's some out there - it's just such a tight engine bay for add-ons and the VR engine design lacks the room for a supercharger in place of the intake manifold like the V-design engines do. Yea... I was 99.99999% sure it wasn't one of the 99, but the fact that searching for stats on a 2006 TT 3.2 kept bringing up either a.) the SE or b.) the MkII had me curious. It is tight under the hood, but I there has to be a way to remove the some of the plastic and clear room for a turbo? I know the battery is already relocated to the trunk with the tire repair kit (I learned the hard way when my tires kept going flat due to bad seals, and suprise, no spare...) By the way Hatebreed, what's wrong with the wheels (Personal taste aside)? I after I bought it I tried to get some really sweet black rims with the winter tires, but apparently the front breaks were modified so it was a 3 week process to try and find some rims with enough clearance to allow the wheels to turn. Some of the other things I don't need to upgrade came with the car. Previous owner put on the wheels (AT Italia Forged Aluminum rims), K40 Detector built into dash, Motorola Blue Tooth hands free thingamabob, and when I was changing the car into it's winter shoes I saw that it had neuspeed...I'm going to say rear anti-sway bar...I think. I was thinking of upgrading the grill (I've seen some A6/8 front ends on TT's that look pretty nice) and maybe just changing the tail lights.
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Sep 18, 2010 00:45
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High_Life posted:My mom had a 1.8L Turbo like 8 years ago. I just remember at the time (and even more so today) being able to find all sorts of chips and kits, turbo upgrades, etc. When I visit the plethora of sites I have looked at, most upgrades once I narrow down model year turn out to be light bulbs, badges, and other misc crap. 300HP at the wheels... or crank? Schrick makes a 268/264 grind that swaps in fine (or a 264/264 if you're feeling rowdy), intake will be ~300 USD with minimal gain, ~800 USD exhaust system with minimal gain (go magnaflow/borla), ~800 USD Haldex 2.0 module install + switch for non-competition modes, HPA or GIAC DSG tune (rev limit increase, staged launching), ~600 USD for whatever ECU tune you like. So far you've invested about 5k and you're not much faster. Turbo kits and the like from C2, HPA (FT-XXX kit) and other companies will run somewhere in the range of 9k for barely 350HP. Save your time and money because I've been down this road before with a MK5 R32 and it's just painful. Remember, everything IS just a bolt on, except for that delicious sounding cam. my1999gsr posted:The speaker is distorting so badly that your sunglass holder is popping open? I've had some pretty bass-heavy VW's in the shop but I've never seen one that was so bad that it could pop open that holder. Maybe the holder is boned too. I can't tell if this is the cause of the speaker or just superior german adhesives, but I've stopped driving my car until I can get everything fixed. Fed up with this typical vw poo poo.
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Sep 18, 2010 01:56
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Have them check out the wiring in the A-pillar, my speaker issues didn't go away until the wiring was replaced. It was the left front tweeter, cutting out at random intervals but mostly when I went over bumps and got progressively worse until it just died at one point (well, one of my rear speakers died too but I suspect that was the dealership loving it up during repair). Your sunglass holder is probably messed up for different reasons, I've seen posts on VWVortex about them breaking. They look flimsy as poo poo, so that's not unlikely.
Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Sep 18, 2010 |
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Sep 18, 2010 02:59
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Hatebreed posted:300HP at the wheels... or crank? Schrick makes a 268/264 grind that swaps in fine (or a 264/264 if you're feeling rowdy), intake will be ~300 USD with minimal gain, ~800 USD exhaust system with minimal gain (go magnaflow/borla), ~800 USD Haldex 2.0 module install + switch for non-competition modes, HPA or GIAC DSG tune (rev limit increase, staged launching), ~600 USD for whatever ECU tune you like. So far you've invested about 5k and you're not much faster. Turbo kits and the like from C2, HPA (FT-XXX kit) and other companies will run somewhere in the range of 9k for barely 350HP. Save your time and money because I've been down this road before with a MK5 R32 and it's just painful. Remember, everything IS just a bolt on, except for that delicious sounding cam. Plus it's more frustrating when you get smoked by someone in a 6k dollar Z28 with standard LS1 bolt-ons. Sure the VW has style and german je ne sais quoi but in the end it gets annihilated by Toyta Camrys. Nothing sounds better than a VR6 though.
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Sep 18, 2010 03:14
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High_Life posted:Yea... I was 99.99999% sure it wasn't one of the 99, but the fact that searching for stats on a 2006 TT 3.2 kept bringing up either a.) the SE or b.) the MkII had me curious. It is tight under the hood, but I there has to be a way to remove the some of the plastic and clear room for a turbo? I know the battery is already relocated to the trunk with the tire repair kit (I learned the hard way when my tires kept going flat due to bad seals, and suprise, no spare...) Where there's a will (and lots of cash) there's a way. If you've got a big enough budget I'm sure you could make some room and fab up some turbo piping but it's going to take deep pockets to make it work right. I love the 3.2 for it's torque and reliability but if you're looking to mod it, it's hard to go wrong with the 1.8T or the newer 2.0T - you're a chip-tune away from pretty beastly power. There's always the option of using nitrous to get closer to your power goals but I don't have any experience with it in a VW.
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Sep 18, 2010 04:00
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High_Life posted:By the way Hatebreed, what's wrong with the wheels (Personal taste aside)? I after I bought it I tried to get some really sweet black rims with the winter tires, but apparently the front breaks were modified so it was a 3 week process to try and find some rims with enough clearance to allow the wheels to turn. Info on the brakes, please?  My car has a Neuspeed rear swaybar, so they may make one for the 3.2 as well. To my eye, the 3.2 front bumper looks better than aftermarket single-frame grilles, and be very careful with the taillights you choose. You aren't going for the clear lens look, are you? 
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Sep 18, 2010 05:04
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wav3form posted:german je ne sais quoi 
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Sep 18, 2010 15:24
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Time to play the exciting game of "guess the random fault", now starring my car! It refused to start today, engine started to turn over but then stalled and I got EPC light, CEL, and the battery light, along with a nice message saying "Check engine / Service now!" on the dash display. I turned the key back to off postion, then turned it again and the car started as usual with no issues. This is the second time it happened, first time was over a month ago (same exact thing). I decided to look out for it and take it to dealer if it happened again, but it never did and I couldn't reproduce it so I wrote it off as a random fault. Well, since it's back I'll be heading over to the dealer on Monday to get it checked out although I'm not expecting much help. Relevant info (at least I think it may be): circumstances were the same both times it happened - I drive for a bit, park, turn the car off, exit, close the car, then come back 3-5 minutes later and try to start the car again. When it happened today the cooling fan was still running (not sure about the first time). I couldn't reproduce the fault again by turning the car off and back on within several minutes, though. Thoughts? Next Move? tm obligatory pic of the lights: 
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Sep 18, 2010 23:25
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my1999gsr posted:Post me a pic of your hatch cover and the tether string and I'll tell you want you need to fix it. There's been a couple of different designs so pics will help. It looks like its attached to a big U shaped plastic that runs across the side and over the top. This is the working side:  And the broken one: 
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Sep 19, 2010 01:25
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Got my motor pulled. Noticed the transmission input shaft that slides into the torque converter is a bit hosed. Not sure if it's my fault or the shop who did my TC job, but is this a big deal and can it be replaced? Again, C5 A6 2.7T Quattro Tip.
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Sep 19, 2010 22:15
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JHVH-1 posted:It looks like its attached to a big U shaped plastic that runs across the side and over the top. You can order the broken part on it's own - it's just a pin that snaps into the window trim surround. I'll see if I can get you a part number tomorrow.
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Sep 19, 2010 22:45
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Autism Sundae posted:Time to play the exciting game of "guess the random fault", now starring my car! I haven't seen this exact problem yet but you're going to have to take to the dealership - without knowing what faults you've got I'd be guessing and that won't do you any good. Sorry I can't help more.
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Sep 19, 2010 22:55
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Neon Machete posted:Got my motor pulled. Noticed the transmission input shaft that slides into the torque converter is a bit hosed. Not sure if it's my fault or the shop who did my TC job, but is this a big deal and can it be replaced? I doubt you did this during tranny removal. I'll show this pic to my co-worker that does the majority of our tranny work and see what he says.
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Sep 19, 2010 22:57
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Ugh...my loving sunroof is creaking, AGAIN. 2006 A4 2.0T, CPO (yay!), 47k miles. I had brought it in earlier because of rattling noises everywhere (some from the IP, some from the sunroof, some from the seats). The sunroof was worse earlier (you could hear metal clanging) and they ended up replacing some parts up there. Apparently, I guess there's a bulletin of some sort (or this is a frequent problem) about creaking sunroofs due to the seals/lack of lubrication. But...the creaking is back now, and it's very temperature dependent apparently. The last time I took it down to the dealer, they told me I'd be paying out the rear end for them to crawl around and find the rattles, but they'd more than willing to fix stuff gratis if I can narrow down a broken part. Took the tech on a test drive with me, pointed out the noises and such, but still the same answer, I've got to narrow it down for them to do anything (i.e., "look, I push down here, noise gone, I let go, noise back"!). Any tips on narrowing down the sunroof rattle/IP rattle, without voiding warranty? e: I was very unclear. When driving around normally, sunroof closed, you can hear the sunroof glass creaking as I drive over slight bumps and such.
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Sep 19, 2010 23:36
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my1999gsr posted:You can order the broken part on it's own - it's just a pin that snaps into the window trim surround. I'll see if I can get you a part number tomorrow. Excellent. I live only a couple miles from my service center so I might bug them to see if they will fix it under warranty. How involved is getting that piece of trim off to replace it?
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Sep 19, 2010 23:54
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movax posted:Ugh...my loving sunroof is creaking, AGAIN. 2006 A4 2.0T, CPO (yay!), 47k miles. I had brought it in earlier because of rattling noises everywhere (some from the IP, some from the sunroof, some from the seats). The sunroof was worse earlier (you could hear metal clanging) and they ended up replacing some parts up there. The warranty administrator at your dealership isn't doing his or her job correctly if they can't get the diagnostic time covered. It's the job of the technician to find the source of the complaint, order the part and replace it and it's certainly not up to you as the customer to figure that out for them. If it takes hours of digging around to find the causal part, it's not your fault and you certainly shouldn't have to pay for that, ESPECIALLY considering that your A4 has already been in and had a sunroof rattle "repaired" previously. Stick to your guns with the service department - emphasize that there is still a noise coming from the sunroof even though they told you it was repaired. If they still won't help you, call the VW/Audi customer service number and tell them what's going on. Having said that. I don't have any TSBs for sunroof noise of any kind in your vehicle but typically we use a silicone-based additive on sunroof seals when they're squeaky but depending on the cause it may not work in your case.
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Sep 20, 2010 01:58
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JHVH-1 posted:Excellent. I live only a couple miles from my service center so I might bug them to see if they will fix it under warranty. How involved is getting that piece of trim off to replace it? Very easy. The little knob that's missing is actually a pin that when pushed in expands a little sleeve which is what secures the whole thing. Very easy to replace and shouldn't cost more than $5.
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Sep 20, 2010 02:01
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Update on my brake wear sensor troubles on my 2001 Audi A6 2.4 30V (european version): It turned out be a broken cable, right where the sensor plug attaches to the cable. I had to get that part of the harness replaced - it is so nice to be able to start the car and not be blinded by warning lights Actually, there's too little info now - my ambient temperature sensor seems to have died. The display will show either nothing, -40 degrees celsius or slowly creep up to -38 degrees celsius. It's nowhere near that cold. I'm hoping it's just a dead sensor, as they are easy to replace. How likely is this to be true? Edit: oh, and another question. The bench part of the rear seat has come loose, and rattles around. I want to troubleshoot, but how do I take the bench off? Should I just pull up or out, or is there some trick to it? Mathturbator fucked around with this message at 10:17 on Sep 20, 2010 |
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Sep 20, 2010 10:14
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my1999gsr posted:I haven't seen this exact problem yet but you're going to have to take to the dealership - without knowing what faults you've got I'd be guessing and that won't do you any good. Sorry I can't help more. Sure, I understand. How often do the error codes get cleared? I had this happen on Saturday, the car is in now but service advisor told me that codes might not show up because sometimes they clear out next time tou start the car. I'm not really expecting the error code from a month ago to show up, but I thought the one from Saturday would be there for sure.
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Sep 20, 2010 16:50
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Ok, apparently steering control module is malfunctioning. Not sure what that is, but it's getting replaced and I'm driving a Jetta for a few days (they told me I could get stranded if the module acts up again).
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Sep 20, 2010 21:39
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wav3form posted:Plus it's more frustrating when you get smoked by someone in a 6k dollar Z28 with standard LS1 bolt-ons. Sure the VW has style and german je ne sais quoi but in the end it gets annihilated by Toyta Camrys. Nothing sounds better than a VR6 though. There is definitely something wrong with your car if you get smoked by a camry. But that being said, even with the APR chip on my 1.8t it's hard as gently caress to launch it without roasting the clutch or getting shitloads of wheelhop. This is why I see no point in trying to mod up a fwd car. Plus, it's already going to cost me somewhere around 10-15k to get my bug up to snuff. Somehow it seems wrong spending 10x the original price of a car to get it back to original shape 
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Sep 20, 2010 23:22
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my1999gsr posted:I doubt you did this during tranny removal. I'll show this pic to my co-worker that does the majority of our tranny work and see what he says. Talked to my co-worker and showed him your pics today. We both agree that there's no way that you did that damage during tranny removal - it's more likely that it was caused during re-assembly when your converter was replaced. The odd thing is where the damage occurred - the cross-shaped bit on the end of the pump shaft doesn't look familiar, can you post a couple more pics of it from different angles? I want to be sure of what I'm seeing.
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Sep 20, 2010 23:43
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Autism Sundae posted:Ok, apparently steering control module is malfunctioning. Not sure what that is, but it's getting replaced and I'm driving a Jetta for a few days (they told me I could get stranded if the module acts up again). Now that problem I HAVE seen - the steering control module is tied into many of the control modules in your car - when it has a problem all kinds of things can go wrong. In response to your question about fault codes and how they clear themselves or don't: it depends on something called priority. Some faults are considered low priority and will not even turn on the check engine light and may erase themselves in a certain number of key on/off cycles. Some faults will turn on the check engine light and erase themselves after a pre-determined number of on-off cycles if the fault doesn't re-occur. The high priority faults (a blinking check engine light for example) will usually stay logged and not erase no matter how many key off and on cycles occur because the ECM has has seen something that could result in damage to the engine or emissions equipment.
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Sep 20, 2010 23:54
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Man, cars are pretty drat intelligent these days.. From your experience, is there anything that could cause it to fail or can fail because of that module? Or do they just go bad on their own every once in a while? How common is that anyway
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Sep 21, 2010 00:25
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVILg_MgGTs Gonna try to do this when it's a bit warmer out to show how the clasp itself never works, but it's pretty lose in 60f weather.
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Sep 21, 2010 08:08
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