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sbyers77 posted:I have a set of those snap ring pliers although they are "PIT BULL" brand, but I am sure they are made by the same manufacturer. They are absolute poo poo. The pot metal they are made out of easily bends out of shape and distorts when you apply pressure to the snap ring. I bought the Channel-Lock version for $20 and they've been kickass for EVERYTHING involving snap rings. The cheap ones weren't strong enough to remove the snap rings from a turbocharger.
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Aug 30, 2010 10:41
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Looking to get a a new torque wrench, click style. Any recommendations for a quality one? I was looking at Snap-On but they website confuses me for some reason.
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Sep 5, 2010 00:29
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Brigdh posted:Looking to get a a new torque wrench, click style. Any recommendations for a quality one? I was looking at Snap-On but they website confuses me for some reason. Yeah they have a torque wrench for just about everything, should be able to sort through the ones on the website if you have a preference of torque range and drive size?
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Sep 5, 2010 23:08
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warcake posted:Yeah they have a torque wrench for just about everything, should be able to sort through the ones on the website if you have a preference of torque range and drive size? Yeah, finally found what i was looking for.
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Sep 6, 2010 00:13
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Brigdh posted:Looking to get a a new torque wrench, click style. Any recommendations for a quality one? I was looking at Snap-On but they website confuses me for some reason. Proto Industrial. You can source them from MSC Direct or Grainger. You can get factory certified ones, they're MIL/Aerospace certified, and they're the only torque wrenches I've seen used in very high end applications. If you don't mind waiting for a few days, they will give you one right off the line in GA and ship them to you with a certificate of certification right from that date. Or you can get a standard certified one from the wholesalers. They were either the same price or slightly cheaper then snap on. I got one new one and 2 others I picked up off of craigslist. Most folks never heard of Proto so they assume it's some "off" brand, so you can get them really cheap if you look. I got a 200-600 ft/lb monster with a 3/4" drive for $100. Tested it out and it still calibrated after all these years.
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Sep 6, 2010 05:18
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I want to replace the awful wobbly 6ft workbench made of unbraced 2x4s that has been in my garage since I moved in. I know I could brace it up, or even start over and build something sturdy, but having some drawers and cabinets sounds like a nice idea. Everything at Lowes or the Depot is tiny, like 3ft wide, and comes with a thin particle board work surface. Sam's seems like an odd place to look, but can anyone suggest something better than this? http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod1480010#desc The drawers rolled all right, and the top seemed sturdy enough to bolt a vise to. Of course putting it together sounds like a nightmare.
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Sep 11, 2010 04:14
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^ I've heard good things about Tractor Supply's in-house brand's ("Masterhand") tool cabinets. From what I understand they buy cabinets from the same supplier that builds them for Craftsman, so you basically end up getting a Craftsman cabinet for considerably less. Example; http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00913252000P?prdNo=13&blockNo=13&blockType=G13 52" 14 drawer Craftsman for $950 from Sears (supposedly on sale from a normal price of $1130.) http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/tool-storage/tool-boxes-cabinets/masterhand-reg-52-in-14-drawer-tool-cabinet-black-4047703 same thing from TSC for $700. Not sure what your budget is, but somehow I doubt a 72" cabinet (like the one you linked at Sam's) for $400 is going to be built well.
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Sep 11, 2010 08:18
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Geoj posted:I've heard good things about Tractor Supply's in-house brand's ("Masterhand") tool cabinets. From what I understand they buy cabinets from the same supplier that builds them for Craftsman Craftsman's tool chests are built by Waterloo Industries. From what I have heard they also build every other brand's tool chests, including high end brands like Snap-on, but I can't confirm this. They sell their own tool chests under the Waterloo name, and I think you can order directly from them, but their website is down so I am not sure (they do have a catalog though). Their media site is still up and showcases a lot of familiar looking tool chests. quote:The drawers rolled all right, and the top seemed sturdy enough to bolt a vise to. Of course putting it together sounds like a nightmare. Also never trust the drawer slides until you have tested them with a lot of weight inside. Ericadia fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Sep 11, 2010 |
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Sep 11, 2010 08:39
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I just saw Harbor Freight has some nice workbenches on sale: http://www.harborfreight.com/work-station-42606.html?utm_source=C_shop&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=3610C http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-capacity-industrial-workbench-94309.html?utm_source=C_shop&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=3610C http://www.harborfreight.com/two-drawer-industrial-steel-workbench-92114.html?utm_source=C_shop&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=3610C http://www.harborfreight.com/wood-top-workbench-6843.html?utm_source=C_shop&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=3610C
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Sep 11, 2010 17:08
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I've got a question about paint guns: Are the cheapo all-in-one HVLP systems that you see popping up any good for infrequent DIY spraypainting? Like this one, for instance. I'd love to buy an actual compressor/paint gun, but don't really have the space to store one of the proper size for spraypainting. edit for clarification. pim01 fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Sep 12, 2010 |
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Sep 12, 2010 18:27
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Anyone know where I can get a cheap metric M12-1.75 tap in stores? Harbor Freight has one in a big 60 tap kit, but I just need this one to clean out the rust from some nuts.
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Sep 14, 2010 09:06
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See if you have a Grainger, McMasterCarr or MSC local to you using their websites.
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Sep 14, 2010 12:15
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mod sassinator posted:Anyone know where I can get a cheap metric M12-1.75 tap in stores? Harbor Freight has one in a big 60 tap kit, but I just need this one to clean out the rust from some nuts. If you have a True Value nearby the stock # is 789422. Master Mechanic, 12MM - 1.75 Plug Type Metric Tap, Carded. Suggested retail is about $4.
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Sep 14, 2010 14:09
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Found this on craigslist last week and took 'er home: 1958 Brunner compressor with 1.5 HP GE motor*. It hadn't been run in about 3 years according to the lady I bought it from. I changed the compressor oil, lubed up the motor bearings, applied 220v, and it fired right up smooth and quiet and filled the 80 gallon tank to 180 psi in under 10 minutes. Some of the air fittings leak a bit and the check valve isn't working, so I'll have to disassemble it a bit to clean and seal 'em up. I've got the plumbing supplies and filter-regulator-lubricator on order - this'll be a great addition to the garage shop when it's all set up. * no-fooling continuous output power rating, not the BS that compressors are marketed with today.
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Sep 14, 2010 17:51
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Old compressors are the best compressors. Brunner was a huge name way back when. Most modern compressors are based off designs they pioneered. They were bought out by dunham-bush in the 50's, another huge name in compressors. That doesn't look like an 80 gallon tank, and you're a far braver man than I for taking it up to 180psi. 
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Sep 14, 2010 18:04
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SlapActionJackson posted:Found this on craigslist last week and took 'er home: The compressor pulley is begging to be painted like a daisy.
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Sep 14, 2010 18:21
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:The compressor pulley is begging to be painted like a daisy. That design is awesome. Doubles as a cooling fan.
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Sep 14, 2010 18:41
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oxbrain posted:That doesn't look like an 80 gallon tank, and you're a far braver man than I for taking it up to 180psi. The tank is stamped with 80 gallons on the info plate. The weld seam is about halfway down the tank to give you an idea of size. I actually adjusted the air switch down a bit to hit the 180 cutoff. I think it had been set at the 200 psi max working pressure before.
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Sep 14, 2010 18:42
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I have a cheapo walmart power inverter that's close to 10 years old and has actually been real good to me. It's got a problem now and I want to ask about it, it seems like a "tool" of sorts, not worthy of its own thread and I know you all will know. The 12v input power lugs are held into the metal chassis by plastic snap-in housings. (kind of like a keystone snapin for wallplates) The plastic housing for the negative has gotten smashed. It still works. That metal negative lug now physically contacts the painted metal chassis directly. It's not making electrical contact, paint's still there, I scraped paint off another part of the chassis to use a meter to test, no continuity between the chassis and negative but this also means there is no normal chassis ground either. If some of that paint by the lug wears down and a chassis ground is created on the case of this thing is it going to be ok until I fix it properly? (I cant do without my inverter, need laptop on road for work) I do want to replace both the positive and neg 12v input lugs with some kind of connector sometime. (and put the corresponding connector part on the cigarette lighter cable and the alligator cables.) What kind of molexish type connector would be good for 12vdc 40 amp? Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Sep 14, 2010 |
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Sep 14, 2010 18:43
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RealKyleH posted:See if you have a Grainger, McMasterCarr or MSC local to you using their websites. Great suggestion, I have a Grainger nearby and this looks perfect for me: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Hand-Tap-2LXP6?Pid=search edit: Oops it looks like one of the cheap HF tap sets does have a M12-1.75 tap too--I think I'll go for that since I need a tap wrench anyways. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Sep 14, 2010 |
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Sep 14, 2010 21:04
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mod sassinator posted:edit: Oops it looks like one of the cheap HF tap sets does have a M12-1.75 tap too--I think I'll go for that since I need a tap wrench anyways. Don't buy HF taps or dies. They are too soft and the pack I bought were way off sized. They're just a complete waste of money and you'll wind up buying a tap elsewhere to fix the problem anyway.
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Sep 14, 2010 21:32
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After 4 years of dicking around at my old shop, within 2 days of transferring to my new location they wanted me to bring my rollaway and cart!  I finally have a spot to call my own, not keeping all my poo poo in the back room of my house under a tarp. Now I might actually get to use them for the reason I bought them all. Click here for the full 1280x960 image.
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Sep 15, 2010 03:15
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Geoj posted:^ I would go with a Clarke chest way before the Masterhand or Craftsman. I havent seen any of the more expensive Craftsman boxes in person but the cheaper ones are poo poo. I looked at a Masterhand and it looked okay, but the Clarke's drawers and slides seemed much more durable.
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Sep 15, 2010 04:46
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14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:After 4 years of dicking around at my old shop, within 2 days of transferring to my new location they wanted me to bring my rollaway and cart! Nice Imperial Eagle.
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Sep 15, 2010 04:55
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I put that thing on when I bought the box drat near 7 years ago, back when I was still actually playing the game. Havent touched a brush or a figure in years. Still recite my Catechisms nightly and make no excuses, for He Sees All  Thought for the Day: Hatred is the Tool that solves all problems
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Sep 15, 2010 05:08
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Hi guys, I just got a drill press for 5 bucks! Click here for the full 1200x1600 image. I also made a quick nut for the old quill stop you can see on the right of the spindle. Moving those nuts all the way up and back down takes forever so I made this nut with most of the threads milled away and a spring behind it so you can slide it up and down quickly and still turn it like a normal nut for fine adjustments.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image. I still need to make a quick clamp that attaches to the column for it. We have one on a drill press at work I'm going to copy. Also, I can't get the drat footswitch to work, keeps tripping a breaker or not working, so I have it hooked up to a light switch. I may buy a Harbor Freight footswitch this weekend.
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Sep 15, 2010 05:39
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Geared Hub posted:I was eyeing the Torin/ Big Red 3-ton SUV jack, its around 45 lbs, and has a removable crown on the lift so you can remove it for lower profile vehicles. I need something that one person can haul off a humvee and lift it if needed. Something better than the oem control arm scissor jacks. Geared Hub, what was your thoughts on that jack? The one I've had for years is not cutting the mustard coming from a F-body to a FS truck. What is the consensus on a compact-SUV/FS truck jack that needs 18-24" lift?
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Sep 16, 2010 02:26
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Nevermind. That was easy. There's a HF 20% coupon in this months PopSci and the back side is also an ad, so no harm in sliding it from the library.
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Sep 20, 2010 |
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Sep 20, 2010 17:01
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Cheap Bourbon posted:Geared Hub, what was your thoughts on that jack? Crap, I took it back, it looks like a slightly modified 2 ton car jack with a 5 inch extension neck that goes below the saddle. It's pretty unstable if you have to jack up anything that can shift weight, ie. an axle or control arm, I didn't trust it an returned it. I wound up getting a "hi range" / tractor bottle jack from US Jack that can lift about 25" or so.
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Sep 21, 2010 01:08
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Geared Hub posted:Crap, I took it back, it looks like a slightly modified 2 ton car jack with a 5 inch extension neck that goes below the saddle. Which model did you get? They list 51011-51013 for different capacities. I'm thinking I would be OK with the 51011, but wouldn't mind the 51012 or 13. Did you find a retailer or did you order online? Any tips on retailers/etail?
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Sep 21, 2010 01:37
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I got the D-51013 for around $150. It's expensive for a bottle jack but it's well built. I purchased it off jackxchange.com they stock many different floor/service and bottle jacks of all sorts of brands. The US Jack is one of the few that have a high lift / farm model. It's unsuitable for cars but for big rigs, big trucks/etc it's great.
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Sep 21, 2010 18:22
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So I'm looking into the cost of possibly buying a basic powder coating kit to do some occasional coating that doesn't have to be pristine. Well I'd LIKE it to be but I'm not stupid enough to think I'll be able to do it. I'm looking at this kit from harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-30-psi-powder-coating-system-94244.html I was also looking at this setup but it doesn't list what sort of PSI levels I need for it: http://powderbuythepound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=2083 Specifically I would need to apply a 2-3mil coat on some chrome.I know nothing about this and have only the basic tools currently as most of mine were stolen. Will any compressor with a regulator be proper for this job or will I need a specific compressor capable of that low of PSI? Any advice or suggestions would be helpful. I figure a good compressor will be worth the investment because I'll use it all the time for other things and eventually get impact tools. Edit: Hmm, I also found this electric one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-01-06100/ I was intrigued by this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lc5Ay7RZ2M where it seemed to be very good at measuring out small amounts of powder vs. the other cheap guns. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Sep 22, 2010 |
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Sep 22, 2010 01:30
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgwmuZuJ02I I found this pretty interesting. Judging by the 80s audio-track, it makes me think these have been around for awhile, but I've never come across any.
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Sep 25, 2010 00:54
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Wow, that's a neat trick.
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Sep 25, 2010 01:26
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This british mechanic has one neat trick for fastening bolts! Click here to find out!
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Sep 25, 2010 02:43
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Bob Log posted:Will any compressor with a regulator be proper for this job or will I need a specific compressor capable of that low of PSI? Any advice or suggestions would be helpful. I figure a good compressor will be worth the investment because I'll use it all the time for other things and eventually get impact tools. Most regulators can screw down to 0 psi and IIRC powder guns use almost no cfm, so a tiny little compressor is plenty. If you're looking to run real tools you'll need to spend some cash. Grinders and sanders can suck down 15-20cfm@90psi, and you'll want to either match that or at least come close, or else you'll be stopping every couple minutes. A big impact gun can use 20-30cfm, but it's not constantly running, so generally you can get away with just a big tank. oxbrain posted:Shop/garage compressor buying guide. My current, "if I had to buy a new workshop compressor tomorrow" compressor, http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/504747/172993.htm.
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Sep 25, 2010 03:41
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I just discovered that when the cutting discs for my 9" angle grinder are worn down too small to use, they fit perfectly on my 4.5" grinder instead. Excellent!
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Sep 26, 2010 15:07
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Where the hell do you find a 9" angle grinder? That's loving gigantic. Biggest I've ever seen was a 7 or a 7.5 or something.
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Sep 26, 2010 16:25
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Jared592 posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgwmuZuJ02I There are hand tightened fasteners in the avionic bays of F-18s that use those. You can loosen them an tighten them easily, but they will never come loose on their own. They're a huge time saver when changing a box out on the run.
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Sep 26, 2010 16:31
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brendaneph posted:There are hand tightened fasteners in the avionic bays of F-18s that use those. You can loosen them an tighten them easily, but they will never come loose on their own. They're a huge time saver when changing a box out on the run. H1's and Humvees use these on the half shafts. I figured I'd see used more often on automotive applications but there isn't too many full IS vehicles that use inboard brakes. A half shaft bolt backing out on a H1/HMMWV would be problematic. The bolts not only hold the shaft to the differential but also the brake rotor. Any bolt backing out will interfere with the calipers. They ship from the factory with Nord Lock washers. I keep a bag of them around when I do brake work and have to swap out a shaft. You can ask for free samples from Nordlock but I think they limit the free samples to businesses due to abuse.
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Sep 26, 2010 17:21
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