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sixide posted:Well I am more concerned with damage to the transmission/engine/driveshaft/rear end/[insert random moving part] which are all currently fine. I plan on blundering through a rebuild and u-joint replacement, but somebody roughly as knowledgeable as myself is strongly recommending a long drive and transfer case replacement which seems borderline suicidal (for the vehicle) to me. Not to mention significantly more expensive. If you have AAA or a buddy with AAA you can get a free tow up to 100 miles, like 4 times a year. Hell, all you really need is the number on someone's AAA card.
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Sep 24, 2010 02:34
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Does the vehicle pull when you brake? Could be collapsed flex lines. MalleusDei posted:Hard to say on the rears. After a drive yesterday, the fronts were hot enough to smell in the parking garage and feel the heat holding a hand next to the wheels. The rears were putting off some heat, but not nearly as much.
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Sep 24, 2010 02:36
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Piano posted:If you have AAA or a buddy with AAA you can get a free tow up to 100 miles, like 4 times a year. Hell, all you really need is the number on someone's AAA card. It's only three, and they won't do anything bigger than a medium pick-up according to the "helpful" woman I talked to one night when we had trouble with a larger truck getting stuck and just needed a quick jerk out of the mud at the edge of a driveway. Also even a regular Plus membership they won't lift a finger to help you with a motorcycle or RV, even if it's just for gas. You need the RV/Pleasure Vehicle add on for that. And as a quick side note, gently caress anyone who thinks motorcycles are just toys. They're a legitimate vehicle, you assholes. Quit treating them like toys whether it's how you drive around them or when you're on one. I had one go FLYING past me in a residential area crossing the center double-yellow with a guy in no gear on who almost dumped it as he jerked back into the lane because he saw the oncoming car.
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Sep 24, 2010 02:59
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My neighbours are outside right now, looks like they're trying to change the headlight bulb on their MK5 VW Golf. I have fuzzy memories that this might be difficult... should I go out and offer some help / advice?
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Sep 24, 2010 04:03
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ExecuDork posted:My neighbours are outside right now, looks like they're trying to change the headlight bulb on their MK5 VW Golf. I have fuzzy memories that this might be difficult... should I go out and offer some help / advice? Say, "you changing a headlight there?" then stand an awkward distance away with your hands in your pockets.
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Sep 24, 2010 04:10
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eddiewalker posted:Say, "you changing a headlight there?" then stand an awkward distance away with your hands in your pockets. The guy asked me about car-stuff a month or so ago when I was changing my oil. I'm not the person to ask about such things (hence I ask questions in this thread), but I feel like if there was anything I could do to help them tonight, I probably should...
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Sep 24, 2010 04:36
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Faerunner posted:they won't do anything bigger than a medium pick-up according to the "helpful" woman I talked to one night when we had trouble with a larger truck getting stuck and just needed a quick jerk out of the mud at the edge of a driveway. This is bullshit, ask for a supervisor. If it's not commercial, they'll tow everything up to a bus. Ask me how I know! The 3 miles vs. 100 miles is Basic vs. Premium. What you're really looking for here is the Better World Club which is like AAA only not lovely. They'll do loving bicycles. eddiewalker posted:Say, "you changing a headlight there?" then stand an awkward distance away with your hands in your pockets. Show up with a hammer. Or a shotgun broken open over your arm.
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Sep 24, 2010 05:16
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Assholes.
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Sep 24, 2010 06:21
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Faerunner posted:It's only three, and they won't do anything bigger than a medium pick-up according to the "helpful" woman I talked to one night when we had trouble with a larger truck getting stuck and just needed a quick jerk out of the mud at the edge of a driveway. If you've got a bike, check out the AMA. Free towing 3-4 times a year for any vehicle you or your family owns, including bikes and boats. Plus, motorcycle related discounts at various places, including entrance fees to AMA sponsored racers.
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Sep 24, 2010 08:05
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I'm picking up these for $25 + S&H. I want to leave the outside trim the metal color but paint the basket weave part itself either black or bronze. What is the best type of paint for wheels?
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Sep 24, 2010 15:00
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You can use the paint you'd find at an auto parts store. These are going to be a bitch to prep, but you should do it if you don't want the paint to chip off.
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Sep 24, 2010 15:48
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I'd probably pay someone to blast those wheels before paint, but I paid $25/per recently, so that may be too much for those.
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Sep 24, 2010 15:56
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I've got a 2002 VW Jetta with an automatic transmission that lately has started revving really high in the low gears before it will shift up (like 6-7k rpm, where it used to shift right around 3k rpm). When it finally does shift up a lot of times its kind of jarring, not smooth(sorry, not really sure how to describe this) It seems to only/usually just do this soon after the car is started and behave normally after I've been driving for a while. I took it to the dealership and they said they were unable to replicate the problem.  Any ideas what I should do or what the problem might be?
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Sep 24, 2010 16:06
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SynMoo posted:You can use the paint you'd find at an auto parts store. I meant in terms of like just plain old regular auto spray paint, or something thicker like caliper paint? eddiewalker posted:I'd probably pay someone to blast those wheels before paint, but I paid $25/per recently, so that may be too much for those. Would I definitely need to do that? I'm planing on using them for the winter, so I might not even paint them at all, I'm just weighing my options at the moment.
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Sep 24, 2010 16:28
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You can spray whatever bullshit you want on there, but it'll probably chip off over time. If you want it to last, the Duplicolor stuff at the autoparts store and a proper prep job will get them looking good.
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Sep 24, 2010 16:31
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I finally got my driver's license this month, at age 25. My parents have an old 92 Camry LE with 110k miles on it that they will let me have. However, it's been sitting in the garage, unregistered and uninsured, for over 2 years now, I think the upholstery is even starting to mold up a bit. What should I do to get this car up and running? It doesn't start right now, presumably because the battery is dead, but I have no idea what might have gone wrong with the car in the last 2 years, although it ran just fine the last time it was driven a couple of years ago. I'm hesitant to insure and register the car before I know that it will run fine, and I've heard that leaving cars undriven for extended periods of time like that can be very bad for them. I can't just try to change the battery and drive the car to a mechanic because it has no plates on it. Should I get it towed somewhere and looked at? Or am I just being paranoid?
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Sep 24, 2010 16:59
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ZerodotJander posted:I finally got my driver's license this month, at age 25. My parents have an old 92 Camry LE with 110k miles on it that they will let me have. However, it's been sitting in the garage, unregistered and uninsured, for over 2 years now, I think the upholstery is even starting to mold up a bit. What should I do to get this car up and running? It doesn't start right now, presumably because the battery is dead, but I have no idea what might have gone wrong with the car in the last 2 years, although it ran just fine the last time it was driven a couple of years ago. You almost certainly need new gas, but yeah, beyond that go ahead and just try to give it a jump start and see what happens. You may need to check every single fluid on the car, but nothing in particular will stop it from being able to drive around the block if it actually starts. Don't bother getting it registered/inspected/insured until you know it's working, yeah. Just 'test drive' it at night and cops probably won't notice. edit: In my state you can go to the DMV and get a 'trip permit' good for 3 days (it's a license plate thing). I think it's like $15. You are supposed to have insurance, though. Jean Eric Burn fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Sep 24, 2010 |
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Sep 24, 2010 17:34
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mp5_smg posted:Does the vehicle pull when you brake? Could be collapsed flex lines. Maybe a bit once the calipers are sticking, but not before. I'll keep an eye on the lines the next time I'm in there.
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Sep 24, 2010 17:36
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So, my car (2003 Focus) was leaking coolant. Pop the hood, figure out that this piece is cracked:   What the hell is the name of this part? It's a length of plastic tubing, closed off at one end, with a fork on the other end.
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Sep 24, 2010 19:27
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Kekekela posted:I've got a 2002 VW Jetta with an automatic transmission that lately has started revving really high in the low gears before it will shift up (like 6-7k rpm, where it used to shift right around 3k rpm). When it finally does shift up a lot of times its kind of jarring, not smooth(sorry, not really sure how to describe this) It seems to only/usually just do this soon after the car is started and behave normally after I've been driving for a while. I took it to the dealership and they said they were unable to replicate the problem. Temp sensor(s) in the transmission might be going bad - I've seen a couple of Mk4 Jettas with similar complaints and replacing the sensor(s) was the solution. Did the shop mention if there were any codes stored at all? When the sensors go bad they usually log a fault for transmission temp sensor implausible signal or something similar. It's also possible that you've got low fluid in the tranny - the side seals for the front axles can start to seep fluid and the level drops as a result. When the tranny fluid heats up it expands a little and makes up the difference.
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Sep 24, 2010 22:55
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ExecuDork posted:UPDATE! The bumper is hanging at an awkward angle, the headlights and grille are on the ground, and they've gone back inside. I feel pretty stalker-ish, as my living room window, next to my computer, looks over the apartment building parking lot and their parking spot is right there. I seem to recall somebody, possibly in this thread, complaining about the difficulty of changing headlight bulbs in VWs. Current evidence suggests this is true. A little late to the party but did the GTI have HIDs?
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Sep 24, 2010 22:56
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Piano posted:Don't bother getting it registered/inspected/insured until you know it's working, yeah. Just 'test drive' it at night and cops probably won't notice. While this is exactly what I would do... I don't think it's a good idea for a brand newly-licensed driver to take a car with questionable reliability he's never driven before out on the road at night without any insurance. Have an insured driver do it. Most auto insurance will cover you when you are driving someone else's car, so while you'll be breaking the law wrt registration, you won't be looking at potential financial ruin if you get in an accident when a rotten tire blows out or a bad fuel line ruptures or some other unlikely-but-possible event.
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Sep 24, 2010 23:10
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The sunvisors in my 99 Altima GXE are busted - specifically, the mount is broken on both of them. The mount is not available by itself from the dealer, nor can you get it 3rd party, you have to get the whole shebang. New, the visors are $130/each from the dealer. gently caress that. A good used set goes for $40-100 on ebay. The GXE didn't have lights in the visor mirrors or homelink. Most of the visors I'm finding on ebay do have these. How difficult would it be to wire these up? Is the wiring already there, or should I not bother wasting my time trying to wire them up? The lights aren't that important, but the homelink would be nice since I'm parking in a garage.
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Sep 25, 2010 01:52
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I was putting a cheap after market radio in my sister-in-law's '93 Grand Am and never could get it to work. It powered on briefly, but only when I had the switched power input wire connected to the still-exposed constant power wire (obviously, I had gotten to the "dicking around in the hopes I accidentally stumble upon the answer" phase of things). I undid everything and put it back together three different times as well as swapping a few ambiguously colored wires (there were two yellows that were only distinguishable by where they were in the harness). To make things even more fun, it only did this brief power on once. When I tried it again a few minutes later, it didn't work a second time. I've checked all the fuses and asked her if the old radio had any problems. Apparently the backlight would go on and off, but the new radio doesn't have a dimmer so it's either on or off. I still have wiring info laying around and plan on taking another stab at it tomorrow and would love some thoughts on the subject. I can answer any questions that may help people figure out what the problem may be. I just installed essentially the same radio in my wife's '94 Contour a few weeks ago with no problems whatsoever. I have no clue what is going so differently this time around.
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Sep 25, 2010 02:11
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my1999gsr posted:A little late to the party but did the GTI have HIDs? I don't know how to tell. When I looked at it this morning it looked fine - he got it all put back together last night, and he had both headlights on for a bit. What should I be looking for?
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Sep 25, 2010 02:28
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I'm coming up on the first oil change on my '09 Vibe, and I'm considering having my buddy do it for  instead of taking it to the Valvoline Quick Lube. Looking at Wal-Mart, I see a ton of inexpensive 5 quart jugs--what's the best bang-for-your-buck?
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Sep 25, 2010 05:21
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Matlock posted:I'm coming up on the first oil change on my '09 Vibe, and I'm considering having my buddy do it for If you follow the scheduled maintenance set out by the manufacturer and don't race/abuse the car, get the cheapest API certified oil in the proper weight.
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Sep 25, 2010 05:46
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my1999gsr posted:Temp sensor(s) in the transmission might be going bad - I've seen a couple of Mk4 Jettas with similar complaints and replacing the sensor(s) was the solution. Did the shop mention if there were any codes stored at all? When the sensors go bad they usually log a fault for transmission temp sensor implausible signal or something similar. It's also possible that you've got low fluid in the tranny - the side seals for the front axles can start to seep fluid and the level drops as a result. When the tranny fluid heats up it expands a little and makes up the difference. Sweet man, thanks. I have no idea what you just said but I'm memorizing it for my coming trip to the shop.
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Sep 25, 2010 05:52
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Kekekela posted:Sweet man, thanks. I have no idea what you just said but I'm memorizing it for my coming trip to the shop. Check these things: 1. Temperature sensor in transmission 2. Transmission fluid level and leaks
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Sep 25, 2010 06:01
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Eat_at_Milliways posted:So, my car (2003 Focus) was leaking coolant. "Water Inlet Tube." I got one two months ago from Tousley Ford for $15 + S/H. They're available at chain parts stores for ~$20-25 but they probably won't have it in stock and will have to special order it. Geoj fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Sep 25, 2010 |
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Sep 25, 2010 06:51
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some texas redneck posted:sunvisors in my 99 Altima GXE are busted Junkyard these. I'll get them for you for cost and shipping next time I go junking if you're not into it. PM me about it. Geekboy posted:this radio is hosed, man Time to test the whole harness with a multimeter. Make sure your ground is good, that's what this sounds like. See if the constant power wire has power, and how much, see if the switched wire has power and how much, check continuity on the speakers while you're in there.
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Sep 25, 2010 10:36
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I need to replace the heater blend door actuator on my 1999 2-door Chevy Tahoe with the 5.7l gas V8, 4x4. Rockauto lists 3 parts, $34, $43, $49. The image on the site of all 3 parts is nearly the same, but the descriptions are slightly different. How do I choose? Some other sites list only one part but they want $50 or so for it, should I go to GM and get their part number for it and then compare that to the online places?
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Sep 25, 2010 11:51
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ExecuDork posted:I don't know how to tell. When I looked at it this morning it looked fine - he got it all put back together last night, and he had both headlights on for a bit. What should I be looking for? Ah, it's not important - if it was equipped with HIDs then you have to remove the bumper cover to change them but if it wasn't then it only seems like you have to remove the bumper cover.
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Sep 25, 2010 18:27
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Splizwarf posted:Time to test the whole harness with a multimeter. Make sure your ground is good, that's what this sounds like. See if the constant power wire has power, and how much, see if the switched wire has power and how much, check continuity on the speakers while you're in there. That's what I was afraid of. I couldn't find my meter last night, but I know I have one laying around. I'm hoping it's just a bad ground because it's easy enough to find somewhere to wire to the frame if I have to.
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Sep 25, 2010 21:21
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Alright. The short backstory, my wife got rear ended and the search for a new car led to a nice Civic SI 3 door. We bought it yesterday (with family help) and it's a manual. At the time of purchase my wife was confident "Ive driven standard before and it's just been forever and I need to relearn" and I adore standard cars so I was all about it. She's already frustrated with it, which I'm trying to work with, but the overriding problem is that driving it makes her knee hurt. She's not at all used to two footed driving and has already brought up selling the thing. So here I am posting a question that seems equally relevant here, in Goondoctor, and in E/N. Give me the automotive side of it I guess. The clutch is smooth and not difficult to press for me, but she's five one and the shortness definitely has something to do with it. How stupid is "replacing the clutch with something easier to press" as an idea? I don't even know. I'm trying to figure out some way to work this out, any suggestions or perspectives would be appreciated.
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Sep 26, 2010 00:26
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TheSpiritFox posted:Alright. The short backstory, my wife got rear ended and the search for a new car led to a nice Civic SI 3 door. We bought it yesterday (with family help) and it's a manual. It'll be very difficult to find a softer pressure plate than the stock equipment on your Civic. Maybe try adjusting the wheel and seat some more to see if you can find a more comfortable/usable seating position.
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Sep 26, 2010 02:21
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Did anyone save that thread where a poster (can't remember his name) made a living off of buying cars off craigslist for cheap, cleaning them/fixing them up and selling for a huge profit? He posted a very detailed guide on how to make your craigslist ad very appealing and how to make a quick sale. I'd like to read it all again.
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Sep 26, 2010 19:46
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Is there a way to adjust the range of positions a seat can go to? The passenger seat in my '88 Honda Prelude isn't broken, but the farthest-forward position it can go to leaves a person slumped half-recumbent in the seat. Pull the lever and it can still fold forward nearly flat, for access to the back seat, but it won't lock into position anywhere forward of "sullen teenager" posture. This is embarassing to me when I give other people rides. The driver's seat has a similar problem, but much less severe, I think the most-forward locked position for me is only a bit further back than I'd like. I replaced both of the front seatbelts back in May, which involved removing the seats from the car and partially disassembling the rails, to remove the old buckle and bolt in the new one. Could I have hosed something up during re-assembly? Is there some way to rebuild that mechanism to change the range of seat-fold positions?
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Sep 26, 2010 21:30
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MrZig posted:Did anyone save that thread where a poster (can't remember his name) made a living off of buying cars off craigslist for cheap, cleaning them/fixing them up and selling for a huge profit? He posted a very detailed guide on how to make your craigslist ad very appealing and how to make a quick sale. I'd like to read it all again. You mean this one from page 1? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3306390 Or a different one?
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Sep 26, 2010 21:45
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my1999gsr posted:It'll be very difficult to find a softer pressure plate than the stock equipment on your Civic. Maybe try adjusting the wheel and seat some more to see if you can find a more comfortable/usable seating position. She's slowly getting used to it, I appreciate at least knowing there isn't another option to explore. Second question, being a civic SI one of the previous owners was a wannabe racer and put an absolutely obnoxious exhaust on it. I want a silencer. I've heard they exist, but I know pretty much nothing else about them. What price am I looking at(saw fifty bucks online, does that sound like a quality part or way too cheap?) Do I need to figure out what kind of muffler I have? Where would someone who doesn't know enough about cars go to get one without getting ripped off? Stuff like that. I googled it and found some shopping results but no explanations. I saw something about power loss. It's a performance aftermarket part, will a silencer just drop the power back to stock or will it have a bigger impact? Is that something price determines? TheSpiritFox fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 01:11
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