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AbdominalSnowman posted:Does anyone have any tips of guides to links for painting the cloth on IG uniforms? I loving hate painting cloth, the paint dries way to quickly to blend and so I try feathering (light layers) to build up to a blended look but when I do that the paint is so watered down that it runs into the creases and makes it all blotchy. I got to the point where I just painted it a color, slapped on some devlan mud, then highlighted with the original color, but it still looks way too stark. Sharp, linear highlights work for armor but it looks like garbage on cloth. Any tips? You have too much paint on your brush, you should load up the brush with paint and wipe the excess off on something. I usually paint on a newspaper so that I can just wipe off the paint. When you think you have enough paint off the brush, give it another wipe to be sure.
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Sep 27, 2010 07:29
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Here's some more progress shots on the manz. I'm almost finished, bar some detailing and mud. I usually slop a buncha muddy paint over all the metal in my army, but i'm a little hesitant to try it with these guys because i really took my time to highlight the edges and get the metal looking nice on its own. Still, i'm really happy with how they're coming along, and I only have a few more details to add before they're finished.  Here's the boss, with all 3 clan colors worked in. It's a little unfocused, but I still think the scheme looks nice. It reminds me a little of crimson fists. I still have to wash his crown and detail the bosspole and base a little more, as well as add some blood around his claw.  I'm debating whether or not to aim for a faux-glow with his eye holes, as attempted here with my kustom force field mek[s]. It might draw some focus back to the face, but it might be too much color for the area.  Bonus picture of my mek[s] 
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Sep 27, 2010 09:34
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I suppose those Kan-things you used are out of production and now far more expensive than they were during that hilarious sale, aren't they.
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Sep 27, 2010 14:09
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Captain Invictus posted:I suppose those Kan-things you used are out of production and now far more expensive than they were during that hilarious sale, aren't they. Looks like they're still in stock though not on firesale: http://www.thewarstore.com/product32017.html http://www.thewarstore.com/product32018.html
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Sep 27, 2010 14:12
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AbdominalSnowman posted:How hard do you guys think it would be to removes the edges and skulls and poo poo off of these greaves? It wouldn't be terribly difficult, just really tedious. You'd never do it all with a knife (not with your sanity intact at least). Get most of it off with a file and neaten it up with a sharp knife. Honestly though, why would you bother? Just buy some loyalist mk.6 legs, they'll be almost exactly the same when you're done. quote:On a slightly related note, having never done Space Marines before, do I have to cut the grip off of every single bolter and glue it on top of their hands? If so that is a really lovely design. You do. Consider this though: it's a lot less lovely than having to glue a tiny little grip onto a bolter if you want one that's not in someone's hand.
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Sep 27, 2010 14:16
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Captain Invictus posted:I suppose those Kan-things you used are out of production and now far more expensive than they were during that hilarious sale, aren't they. Miniature Market still has a 3-pack for $12. http://www.miniaturemarket.com/inc/sdetail/138803
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Sep 27, 2010 15:46
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 95% done on the first squad of Revilers. to do is basing, drilling barrels and dabs of green on the various lenses. Might also have to add a second layer of paint on the sergeants's head and give it a wash of ogryn flesh.
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Sep 27, 2010 16:03
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Anyone have an opinion about whether or not I attempt the glowy-eyes treatment on the megaboss? I'm gonna try'n finish the oath today.
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Sep 27, 2010 16:37
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pw pw pw posted:Anyone have an opinion about whether or not I attempt the glowy-eyes treatment on the megaboss? I'm gonna try'n finish the oath today. I think you should try. How hard would it be to paint over if you hosed up?
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Sep 27, 2010 16:42
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Glowy eyes, but make them red, orange or yellow or something. Blue and green are way overdone, I rarely ever see people do red glowy eyes.
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Sep 27, 2010 17:07
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pw pw pw posted:Anyone have an opinion about whether or not I attempt the glowy-eyes treatment on the megaboss? I'm gonna try'n finish the oath today. As a Cryx player, I fully support glowing green goodness. Necrotite powered orks!
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Sep 27, 2010 17:28
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Ffff I just decided on collecting Orks over SM/CSM and then you fuckers go and post amazing Nurgle conversions and kickass Revilers. gently caress y'all.  At least one of you is sensible and does Orks. 
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Sep 27, 2010 18:07
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Surprise T Rex posted:Ffff I just decided on collecting Orks over SM/CSM and then you fuckers go and post amazing Nurgle conversions and kickass Revilers. gently caress y'all. I may be (at least I think so) awesome with Deathguard conversions, but I always had a soft spot for Orks. You have a lot more conversion awesomeness potential with an Ork army in my opinion.
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Sep 27, 2010 19:00
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Surprise T Rex posted:Ffff I just decided on collecting Orks over SM/CSM and then you fuckers go and post amazing Nurgle conversions and kickass Revilers. gently caress y'all. Don't worry, you made the right choice. Here's some of my stuff if it helps. v  v  
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Sep 27, 2010 19:06
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Posted these in the 40k thread, but the new DE stuff completely glossed over them Anyway, completed this Librarian and a boatload of Marines this last week. The Chaplain shown was the last model I completed before quitting the hobby a year ago. I have some catching up to do to get back to that quality I think. From earlier:  Click here for the full 1000x563 image. Just finished these guys:   Anyway, justify me please... 
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Sep 27, 2010 19:11
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Dr. Lenin posted:I may be (at least I think so) awesome with Deathguard conversions, but I always had a soft spot for Orks. You have a lot more conversion awesomeness potential with an Ork army in my opinion. This is true, and is the main reason I chose them, really. Miles O'Brian posted:Don't worry, you made the right choice. Here's some of my stuff if it helps. v It does, how did you get the yellow to cover so well? I tried it before on some fantasy goblin models and it took so much effort just to get some robe trim looking consistent and non-patchy. Surprise T Rex fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 19:14
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Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 19:15
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Tuxedo Jack posted:Posted these in the 40k thread, but the new DE stuff completely glossed over them It's a good scheme and well painted, from the looks of them. Just gotta get them based and drill your barrels next time. I might try to get a little wash into the detail recesses on the leg and arm armor if I were you, but that's just my preference so they stand out more when not under an intense light.
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Sep 27, 2010 19:18
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Tuxedo Jack posted:Anyway, justify me please... Base your models!  Your painting is nice but bare black plastic bases seriously detract from the appeal.
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Sep 27, 2010 19:18
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Chenghiz posted:Base your models! The rest of the army is based, but as I'm planning on rebasing them all with something better than static grass, I'm holding off until I decide what to do. I want to be a bit more ambitious than my old basing technique of half gravel, half static grass. Ignore the bases for now. Sorry.
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Sep 27, 2010 19:31
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Only just had a chance since Sunday to get my photos up Woop Woop, thats mine bottom right  I'll put the rest of the GD pics in the main thread
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Sep 27, 2010 19:40
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Surprise T Rex posted:It does, how did you get the yellow to cover so well? I tried it before on some fantasy goblin models and it took so much effort just to get some robe trim looking consistent and non-patchy. Iyanden Darksun hilighted with Golden Yellow. Steer clear of Tausept Ochre, that stuff is barely better than most "normal" yellows. Much like DnD, Darksun is where the good stuff is.
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Sep 27, 2010 19:40
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Skarsnik posted:I'll put the rest of the GD pics in the main thread Obviously the issue here is that you didn't have a big enough pedestal for your mini 
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Sep 27, 2010 19:47
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S.J. posted:Obviously the issue here is that you didn't have a big enough pedestal for your mini I hate to say it but its true, I need to go buy some doorknobs. They weren't nearly as bad this time round as in previous years, but mine looked silly without one It should be the other way round damnit
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Sep 27, 2010 19:53
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I thought the big display bases got banned? (Also congrats Skarsnik.)
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Sep 27, 2010 20:02
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Fyrbrand posted:I thought the big display bases got banned? They did in most categories, but not mine unfortunately: "Although most of these models tend not to be supplied with a base, it is quite acceptable for you to mount the vehicle on a modest base (no more than 20mm larger than the vehicle itself)" For other categories, it had to be an appropriately sized base. However it didn't stop you putting that appropriately sized base on a doorknob. The rules stated they had to be removable from the doorknob, and they would be removed from them during judging. I didn't see a single bit of judging though where they actually did this though edit: Da Rules: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/c...500056a&start=2 Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 20:11
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Surprise T Rex posted:Ffff I just decided on collecting Orks over SM/CSM and then you fuckers go and post amazing Nurgle conversions and kickass Revilers. gently caress y'all. if it can help you, i still have to paint 40 of the fuckers and these are just the AoBR marines, which means the others i have to paint are even more detailed. argh
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Sep 27, 2010 20:39
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I'm still having a bit of trouble with this semi-transparent layering to replicate a blended look. I know I need to water down the paint a shitton and do a lot of layers, but how do I get better flow control? It is so watery that it basically a wash and it flows into all the crevices, but if I wipe it down first so most of the paint is off the brush, it looks like I drybrushed it or it gets all splotchy. What am I doing wrong?
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Sep 27, 2010 20:47
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Does Simple Green strip matte coats off of models as easily as paint? I've never had to try and I just picked up some second hand stuff that's been "painted" in the loosest sense of the word. Also, not sure if this is the place, but can someone point me to a good greenstuffer that does commission work? I've run into a snag in my quest for 8 unique demons for an Apoc Bloodbath. I've done a head swap on an Ultraforge Wardemon and I'm not quite skilled enough to reconcile the difference in neck girth. Ideally, I'd like to make a trade for the work, but whatever works. Details 'n pics here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3352009
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Sep 27, 2010 20:53
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Mondian posted:Does Simple Green strip matte coats off of models as easily as paint? I've never had to try and I just picked up some second hand stuff that's been "painted" in the loosest sense of the word. Look for Buffalochicken on these forums. I forget what what name he currently goes by on EoW. He did some custom work on my Space Hulk terminators, and has done nice stuff for some other people. Fake edit I decided to not be lazy. Thirsty Daddy over at EoW. Here is a link to his commission thread. Dude charges way too little for the quality of his work. A++ all around.
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Sep 27, 2010 21:00
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AbdominalSnowman posted:I'm still having a bit of trouble with this semi-transparent layering to replicate a blended look. I know I need to water down the paint a shitton and do a lot of layers, but how do I get better flow control? It is so watery that it basically a wash and it flows into all the crevices, but if I wipe it down first so most of the paint is off the brush, it looks like I drybrushed it or it gets all splotchy. What am I doing wrong? Your paint should be thin but not too thin, its very hard to describe. It took me ages to get used to it but now I know from swirling the paint in my palette if its too thick or too thin. Just keep on practising, if it looks like its dry brushed it sounds like the paint has dried out on the brush or its too thick.
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Sep 27, 2010 21:04
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AbdominalSnowman posted:I'm still having a bit of trouble with this semi-transparent layering to replicate a blended look. I know I need to water down the paint a shitton and do a lot of layers, but how do I get better flow control? It is so watery that it basically a wash and it flows into all the crevices, but if I wipe it down first so most of the paint is off the brush, it looks like I drybrushed it or it gets all splotchy. What am I doing wrong? Use acrylic matte medium (available at any decent art store, or sold by privateer press as mixing medium) to increase your paint's transparency without reducing viscosity - it's basically straight acrylic binder (acrylic paints are made of binder, water, and pigment in an emulsion, adding too much water will break that emulsion and make things look like poo poo). The other option is just doing two-brush blending because it's way easier than wet in wet - thin your paint a bit (around whole milk in consistency), lay a blob down with one brush, and push/pull the wet paint around with a second, clean, damp (most of the people I know just lick it) brush until it's blended into the previous layer. This is pretty easy to do and just requires you to work quickly, though you can use a bit of slo-dri or similar acrylic retarder when thinning your paint to give you some extra working time.
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Sep 27, 2010 21:07
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Edit: Nevermind, I'm dumb.
Mondian fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Sep 28, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 21:20
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Miles O'Brian posted:Don't worry, you made the right choice. Here's some of my stuff if it helps. v I keep seeing this part, where does the voodoo mask come from? pw pw pw posted:Here's some more progress shots on the manz. I'm almost finished, bar some detailing and mud. Are you set on the dark blue? It just makes the look so plain at the moment. It may just be the lighting, but it's so close to black, and without highlighting or shading I think you could do far better.
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Sep 27, 2010 23:39
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Wazzu posted:I keep seeing this part, where does the voodoo mask come from? It's an WHFB Orc special character, Wurzag or something edit: here ya are: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440078a&prodId=prod1130272
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Sep 27, 2010 23:51
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If it wasn't clear, the nobz are not blue, just the boss. I didn't want him to stand out severely from his squad, but I wanted some blue and red in there to tie him in with the rest of my army. Do you think a brighter, ultramarine-style blue would be better? I like how dark the meganobz are and I was hesitant to make the boss considerably brighter. I'm also worried that he's dangerously clowny as it is and that saturating him with more color might bump it over the edge. Ignite Memories fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 23:51
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Surprise T Rex posted:Ffff I just decided on collecting Orks over SM/CSM and then you fuckers go and post amazing Nurgle conversions and kickass Revilers. gently caress y'all.       
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Sep 28, 2010 00:11
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Mondian posted:Also, not sure if this is the place, but can someone point me to a good greenstuffer that does commission work? I've run into a snag in my quest for 8 unique demons for an Apoc Bloodbath. I've done a head swap on an Ultraforge Wardemon and I'm not quite skilled enough to reconcile the difference in neck girth. Ideally, I'd like to make a trade for the work, but whatever works. Details 'n pics here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3352009 I could take a crack at it, but I'm not a professional by any means. EDIT: You're better off going through Buffalo Chicken. I forgot how good he is. 
Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Sep 28, 2010 |
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Sep 28, 2010 00:37
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Incoming Exodite... um, I dunno, I guess he'd be like an Autarch? 
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Sep 28, 2010 01:57
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pw pw pw posted:I'm also worried that he's dangerously clowny as it is and that saturating him with more color might bump it over the edge. They're orks. If they're not over the edge, you're not trying hard enough! Seriously though, the blue areas are super dark and don't seem like they're finished compared to the yellow. I'd vote for using a brighter blue, or at least doing some aggressive edge highlighting with a brighter blue to make the individual panels and parts stand out more.
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Sep 28, 2010 03:08
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