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PBCrunch posted:Wow. I think my parents got rid of a set of couches just like those. The one still has the original delivery sticker on the bottom. States 1982 I believe. This collection of furniture is going "camping". I don't expect they will survive.
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Sep 30, 2010 21:20
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trouser chili posted:I really need to do that with my IH pickup. I want to notch the frame so I can get some more drop out of it. That's awesome, the furniture oddly does not clash with the truck. It's got a hunting lodge look about it. Your truck always looks low in the pictures you post, is that the factory 2wd height?
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Oct 1, 2010 01:41
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Toucan Sam posted:That's awesome, the furniture oddly does not clash with the truck. It's got a hunting lodge look about it. Your truck always looks low in the pictures you post, is that the factory 2wd height? Haha, yeah tacky old furniture doesn't clash with tacky old truck. It is factory ride height, I'd like to drop it further. I think I'm selling it though to fund the purchase of a 240d. If that doesn't pan out, I'm gonna find someone to build some A-arms for the front that can accept chevy drop spindles and bags, solving my brake troubles and setting me up for the next stage. This will be a four-link for the rear, a notched frame and more bags. Edit: Oh yeah, it'll also get some titanium skid plates in the back, so I can throw cool sparks. trouser chili fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Oct 1, 2010 |
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Oct 1, 2010 02:15
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PBCrunch posted:Did you put on the "gixxer_drew" Bilstein/Hyperco home made coilover setup? I put that setup on my 1995 SC400 almost two years ago and it has been pretty awesome. Not yet, I have yet to order the sleeves and hypercoil springs. The eibachs I have on it right now are pretty decent for daily driving so I might stick to those for a while. I actually know gixxer_drew personally and did some aero concept sketch designs for his time attack eclipse. Besides the hypercoil and sleeve set up, he highly recommends the oem twin turbo springs on bilsteins for street/track. quote:If you're messing with brakes anyway consider the 95 LS400 front brake upgrade. You just need a set of 95+ LS400 calipers, rotors and pads. It bolts on except that the dust shield needs to be cut or bent. The 95+ LS400 has rotors that are an inch larger and the calipers have four pistons and the caliper bracket is part of the caliper. I think you might also need the caliper bolts from the LS400. I don't remember. I think I paid something like $100 for a set of used calipers and rotors, then had the rotors machined. Im keeping my eye out on a set of LS400 brakes at the moment. I've read that oem TT brake pads (and maybe rotors?) fit the LS calipers, but im not sure about which years are used. I used to have my Volk GT-Us on my 94 supra turbo, so im sure that it'll clear the LS calipers. I know for sure that the Acura TL wheels will clear them if I ever need a set of snow wheels/tires. quote:Is your SC300 a five-speed? Congrats if it is. I want one of those five-speed conversion kits for my 400 really bad, and I have the money for it. The previous owner of the car even converted the car to a five-speed. He swapped it using a custom bell housing adapter he had made, blew up two Tacoma clutches and swapped the car back to an auto trans. The five-speed pedal box is still there, the clutch master cylinder is still there. Yes, its a 5 speed  I haven't heard of using tacoma clutches since most conversions i've seen use the oem w58 clutch. I've looked around craigslist and for the price of a w58 out of an SC, the r154 is only a few hundred bucks more if you want a bulletproof gearbox. Or you can use a w58 out of a MKIII non-turbo. There's one for sale near my area for $100 obo Duckjob fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Oct 1, 2010 |
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Oct 1, 2010 02:50
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trouser chili posted:Haha, yeah tacky old furniture doesn't clash with tacky old truck. It is factory ride height, I'd like to drop it further. I think I'm selling it though to fund the purchase of a 240d. If that doesn't pan out, I'm gonna find someone to build some A-arms for the front that can accept chevy drop spindles and bags, solving my brake troubles and setting me up for the next stage. This will be a four-link for the rear, a notched frame and more bags. They make so many notch kits it should be easy to adapt something over. Mine was notched back in the day before kits were available and it needed the notch for the hydraulics. I'd like to put a more pro looking notch kit on it but i don't want to cut up the bed floor so the ghetto notch will have to do. It's lasted 15 years so i'll probably just add some reinforcement and leave it. If anything i'm gonna throw the hydros back on since i'm not really an airbag guy. If i was into bags i'd 4link and c-notch it. You're truck would be really unique with bags and you definitely can't forget the spark blocks. My truck had a set since i can bottom it out pretty much at will.
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Oct 1, 2010 04:12
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I put gas in it today. Also, I got tired of my stereo sounding like someone running their nails down a chalk board and got some new front speakers (new rears will be purchased soon). Old and a little busted  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Kicker DS650's somehow replaced them... perfect fit.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Oct 1, 2010 04:46
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Bought 17" Stock Wheels off of an 04 G35 Coupe w/ Continental Viking Snow Techs on them. The tires look to still have 2 seasons left and are in very good shape. One wheel is dented, but nothing a shop couldn't fix. Great use of $450.
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Oct 1, 2010 12:52
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some texas redneck posted:I put gas in it today. I had both a 94 and 2000 altima. Both stock speakers sounded like rear end, and both stock speakers were dried up and destroyed by the Phoenix sun. I guess Nissan makes those speakers out of tissue paper or something [content] I wired up the V1 again, this time hiding the unit behind the mirror, with just enough of it showing so the rear dingus works, and can detect radar from the rear. Found out why my scangauge wasn't working, I managed to pull the fuse that was marked as "sunroof" (which my car does not have) for a circuit doubler. Apparently BMW/MINI decided that'd be a great circuit to run the ODBII dingus off of, too.  Once it gets warmer out, it's clean the cooper day
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Oct 1, 2010 16:45
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nitrogen posted:I had both a 94 and 2000 altima. Both stock speakers sounded like rear end, and both stock speakers were dried up and destroyed by the Phoenix sun. I guess Nissan makes those speakers out of tissue paper or something I don't know if you know, but if you plug another RJ connector into the other jack on the V1 remote mounting power supply, you can rig up a remote mute/mode change button by connecting "data2" and ground as in this diagram. The V1 remote display does the same thing, but with a 10k resistor inline, so I added one to be safe. http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec80.shtml I drilled a small black push button on the side of the console between it and the passengers seat, so I can drop my hand off the shifter and mute quickly. I ended up running my 12v+ from under the console as well so I could put a unit power switch there next to the mute.
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Oct 1, 2010 17:21
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Duckjob posted:Im keeping my eye out on a set of LS400 brakes at the moment. I've read that oem TT brake pads (and maybe rotors?) fit the LS calipers, but im not sure about which years are used. I've read on clublexus that there are issues when using a MkIII Supra gearbox. It is better to get a transmission from a SC300 or non-turbo MkIV Supra. If your wheels fit a MkIV Supra turbo they will surely fit the big calipers on an SC. I had to get some spacers to use the 17" GS400 wheels I used to have on my SC. Then I sold the wheels and got new ones that fit without spacers. The guy who had my car before me did all of this stuff back 2001 or so. The kits weren't really available. I'm pretty he sure he used a W5x transmission out of a Tacoma because it was easily available at the time. It seems that the Tacoma trans will work but the first couple of gears are retarded short and first gear is just about useless.
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Oct 1, 2010 17:31
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eddiewalker posted:I don't know if you know, but if you plug another RJ connector into the other jack on the V1 remote mounting power supply, you can rig up a remote mute/mode change button by connecting "data2" and ground as in this diagram. The V1 remote display does the same thing, but with a 10k resistor inline, so I added one to be safe. Yeah, I bought the remote display when I bought the V1:  I'm a big fan of making these things as stealthy as possible. The removable pivoted lower dash on the coopers makes it very simple to wire these kinds of things up.
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Oct 2, 2010 01:36
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nitrogen posted:Yeah, I bought the remote display when I bought the V1: Are V1s really as good as I've heard? I'm in the UK so it'd cost me around £300 for one, is it really worth the money?
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Oct 2, 2010 12:35
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VolumeOverTalent posted:Are V1s really as good as I've heard? I'm in the UK so it'd cost me around £300 for one, is it really worth the money? I'm not an über expert on detectors, but I've had a lot of midrange detectors from other vendors, then I bought the V1 back in 2003. The V1 is nice because it'll give you a "bogey count", telling you how many sources it detects, and it'll tell you generally where the bogey is (in front or behind you). It also falses less than any detector I've ever had, even on the "filter almost nothing/highway" mode I have mine in. I have yet (knock on wood) gotten a speeding ticket in any car it's been in. It probably helps that most cops around in Texas leave their radar on constantly. I think other vendors lately have caught up to V1, and V1 hasn't changed much since 2003ish, so i'd be interested what a real expert says. I like it better than any other detector i've used. nitrogen fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Oct 2, 2010 |
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Oct 2, 2010 18:14
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Decided I didn't need an entire spare interior so I chucked a metric fuckton of plastic parts.
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Oct 2, 2010 18:23
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Noticed very little, but some cupping starting on the tires. Toe hasn't changed. Just replaced the drat struts with Bilsteins, so hopefully a balance will balance it out.
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Oct 2, 2010 18:49
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Washed SLO-RICE (the Fit) to get the insane amounts of bird poo poo off of it. I have a dogwood tree, and the Fit was parked under it so when the birds poo poo, they left dogwood berry-colored presents all over it.
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Oct 2, 2010 21:41
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nitrogen posted:I'm not an über expert on detectors, but I've had a lot of midrange detectors from other vendors, then I bought the V1 back in 2003. The V1 is nice because it'll give you a "bogey count", telling you how many sources it detects, and it'll tell you generally where the bogey is (in front or behind you). The V1 is a decent unit, and it integrates with my Laser Interceptor.. but I ended up getting the Passport 9500ix only because it was on sale for $150 off on Amazon a few months ago. The Passport 9500ix is nice because it has a GPS receiver and database of red light and speed cameras. The other nice feature as far as false positives goes, is that it uses the GPS to find constant sources of radar, and after passing them three times filters them out unless it's filter is active and there is no radar source... in which case it deletes the filter. A really nice feature for city driving. Radarbusters is a great source if you want more information on performance of specific models.
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Oct 2, 2010 22:49
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The left glass lens of my mk2 Golfs headlight decided to fall out some time ago. I bought a new lens of ebay for 5 dollars.. everyone told me I'd have to get a new lamp all together. Lens arrived, I cleaned the now horribly dirty reflector of the left light carefully (almost not scratching it at all) removed the horribly old rubber seals that were stuck on around the lamp. Then i superglued the new lens right on there.. wonder how that's gonna work out.. Checked the beams against a wall, they line up perfectly.
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Oct 3, 2010 01:36
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Bought it! 1988 Mercury Tracer in pretty darn good condition for $500. Pictures tomorrow. PO bought it new and babied it, it needs an oil change and a transmission fluid change and it's good as gold. Very minor surface rust on some of the body panels, and a small ding in a fender, and the windshield wiper arms have significant surface rust, but it runs and drives like a charm.
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Oct 3, 2010 04:13
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Replaced my jury rigged BOV with a non-tampered with BOV. Its been like three weeks since I took off my alternator, so lets see if I can put it on. Will post back with results later. EDIT: Phew, I actually got the alternator back on in about twenty minutes! Jump started the car with my brother's and this bitch purrs like a kitten now. Ran into a few issues with the power steering pump so I'll probably hold off on that until I get clarification on the issue. Here's a list of things I still need to do before I can drive her: - Install the new power steering pump - Change oil - Change tranny fluid - Flush the radiator - Install the power antenna mechanism - Buy winter tires Almost there! Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Oct 3, 2010 |
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Oct 3, 2010 17:26
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Just finished up a bunch of maintenance on my RDX - Changed the oil - Cleaned the air filter - Changed the cabin air filter - Rotated the tires - Changed the rear differential fluid I'd have been done a lot quicker except whoever put the fill and drain plugs on the rear differential torqued them way the hell beyond what they were supposed to be at and it took some real creative work with a breaker bar and an elbow joint to get them to pop loose. Feels good to get all that done myself, especially knowing I saved quite a bit off having that done for me, especially since the total for the parts and oil was only $70.
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Oct 3, 2010 19:21
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For years I've had this annoying condition where my drivers side wiper would just smear and not actually wipe or clean the lower 1/3 portion of its wipe arc. A couple days ago it occurred to me that if the wiper arm was not torqued down enough to sit flush with the window, then the linkage would rest in a way that put more pressure on the upper portion of the blade and less at the bottom. So today I went out and re-torqued the wiper arm down to spec and now it wipes perfectly! Should have done that years ago.
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Oct 3, 2010 22:56
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Cleaned the interior of the Tracer, no pictures yet because it's gray and rainy outside. Things left to do: - Check for blown fuses / bulbs - Change oil and transmission fluid, check other fluids - Find a source for auto carpet material, I can cut new carpet using the existing as a template and I assume that's cheaper than sourcing a replacement carpet for the exact vehicle? I wonder if I can put this stuff through the washing machine. - Thoroughly wash and wax the outside - Replace missing hubcap - Fix some mild surface rust - Figure out how the dicks to get all the goddamn leaves out of the air ducts Not enough for a thread, and it would be silly anyway since I don't have a garage to do much of my own work in anyway, so. But putting it in this thread gives me an extra oomph to, you know, actually get it done.
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Oct 3, 2010 23:08
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Working on upgrading to K04 turbos (from the RS4) in my 2.7T A6. I finally got my downpipes fully out so I could gut the pre-cats, even though I've had the engine out for a good month. Here's what's left of my pre-cats: .JPG) And there's the nice clean opening where my pre-cat used to be. The jury is still out on whether or not I should wire brush it...I still have another one to do and getting just this one out was a bitch. .JPG)
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Oct 3, 2010 23:16
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nitrogen posted:I'm not an über expert on detectors, but I've had a lot of midrange detectors from other vendors, then I bought the V1 back in 2003. The V1 is nice because it'll give you a "bogey count", telling you how many sources it detects, and it'll tell you generally where the bogey is (in front or behind you). The 9500ix is a very good unit, and once the V1's dual antenna patent is up I think the escorts will outclass the V1 in every way. Until then, it is down to preference though. You can either get GPS speed/redlight cameras and less automated door warnings or you can have directional arrows and a count of how many radar sources there are.
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Oct 3, 2010 23:50
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I backed into a ditch in the middle of nowhere. But Macguyvered my way out of it with a scissor jack, a tire pressure gauge, and some fishing line. Okay not the fishing line. Back left wheel doing its best with experimental anti gravity. Seems to be working. Barely had enough room to get the jack under the frame rail.  Scissor jack deployed.  YAY BACK ON ROAD TAKE THAT YOU STUPID DITCH  Jacked up the back left as high as the jack would go, using the tire pressure gauge as a handle since the lovely previous owner didn't leave one in the trunk. Hopped in the car, revved it up a bit (3k or so?) and dropped the clutch in 1st, and drove off the jack - something that's generally ill advised, but hey, it got me out of the ditch. The jack is a bit wobbly after being run over, but no damage to the car.
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Oct 4, 2010 00:07
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Next time jack the car up and then fill in the void under the tire and then let the jack down.
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Oct 4, 2010 00:20
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PBCrunch posted:Next time jack the car up and then fill in the void under the tire and then let the jack down. That's the first thing that came to mind, but I didn't have anything to fill it with. I was hardly the first one to fall off of that as you can tell, and I was in the middle of nowhere. There was well over a foot of space between the tire and ground before I jacked the car up. Besides, this was faster. 
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Oct 4, 2010 00:26
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trouser chili posted:The one still has the original delivery sticker on the bottom. States 1982 I believe. This collection of furniture is going "camping". I don't expect they will survive. The couch did not survive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbkhozfChPM The loveseat was deemed terrible upon arrival to the "campsite" due in large part to the mold contained under it's cushions and the large black patch of greasy headstain on the back cushions. It was sentenced to death upon exiting the truck. The chair lived for a while, and was given a useful cupholder modification. This ingenious modification was created by stabbing the chair with a knife in a circular motion. Eventually some bright individual attempted to add an rear end-warming modification. This was done by shoveling hot coals from the fire under the cushions. The experiment ended with the subject fully involved in what can only be described as an uncontrolled fire. The couch was deemed "surprisingly not terrible" and even words such as "nice" were used in it's description. Thus it was given a reprieve and spared from certain destruction. Unfortunately in celebration we all got very drunk and forgot we weren't going to burn it.
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Oct 4, 2010 00:34
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Went over the headlights with some plastic polish Before:  After:  Not bad for less than 5 minutes work (don't thin k the photos quite do it justice)
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Oct 4, 2010 04:23
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Changed the front rotors on the RS 4. The drat torx screw holding the rotor on the hub stripped. At least I got to maim some stuff, though.
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Oct 4, 2010 04:26
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I started the process of stripping away all of the oxidation in the paint of my 88 Accord. After about 3 hours with about a quarter bottle of rubbing compound and a lot of pads, I managed to make the about a fifth of my hood look almost factory fresh. The car might actually look pretty drat good with another 60 or so man-hours. I think I need to invest in an orbital because my hands loving hurt. At least I know what's possible with my paint. Now the dents on the other hand...
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Oct 5, 2010 23:09
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Washed it, meticulously, for like two hours. Followed PBCrunch's guide in this thread http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3306390&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=7 . Didn't bother with the clay bar since it's factory paint on a 1988 Mercury Tracer, so if there ever was a clear coat it's for *drat* sure gone now. Also skipped pressurewashing the engine bay since if I understand Google right, this car has a thing called a 'coil pack' which makes hosing down the engine bay unwise. If I were to find that and cover it with a plastic bag, along with anything else obviously electrical, would his method (squirting everything down with Purple Power while the engine is running and stopping immediately if the engine dies or sounds funky, scrubbing reachable stuff with a brush for a while, then hosing down with a pressure washer) work? I really want to take good care of this car, but I'm also a little paranoid about destroying something. Tomorrow's adventure: The DMV. Still no pictures because I'm a weenus who forgot to take them =(
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Oct 6, 2010 00:50
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zamin posted:I started the process of stripping away all of the oxidation in the paint of my 88 Accord. After about 3 hours with about a quarter bottle of rubbing compound and a lot of pads, I managed to make the about a fifth of my hood look almost factory fresh. The car might actually look pretty drat good with another 60 or so man-hours. Do you have any rust patches to deal with?
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Oct 6, 2010 00:56
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Before:.JPG) Click here for the full 1028x768 image. After: .JPG) Click here for the full 1028x768 image. No, these are not the same fender. I forgot to take a picture before I started grinding and welding, but the damage was very similar. 240SX's have a lower fender brace. Well, all of them but this one. This is the result. Now it's time for bondo, high-build, and tons of sanding. First I probably need to find out if the fender is warped after I cut and rewelded the internal brace to fix some fairly severe dents in the very front of the fender. I also went ahead and rolled the fender while I had the hammer and dolly out. Wish they had this one in the junkyard, but every 240 in there is hit on the right front fender. Oh well, I wanted to learn how to do body work anyway. And there's no way I could screw it up worse than it already is.
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Oct 6, 2010 01:10
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I sold my spare car. 03 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V with 87000 miles on it. I am now praying that nothing pops up in the next week or to so I don't have to deal with that bullshit. All fluids were changed, plugs changed (not wires though), serpentine belts changed, inspected twice.. I should be OK, but a car nearing 90K can have something pop up in a day. Regnevelc fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 02:04
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I broke out the leather cleaner and scrub brush followed by leather conditioner. e: I also received my latest Blackstone oil analysis Question, which part of engine typically wears Molybdenum? Mr.Peabody fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 06:34
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Tried to replace the thermostat on my Focus before refilling the coolant but I couldn't find my channel locks to take the retention rings off the hoses to get the housing out of the engine compartment. Oh well, its been sitting without coolant since last November, a few more days won't make a difference. Ended up rewiring the DIY harnesses (VW connectors and repair wires spliced into the factory harness) for my HID headlights, the guy I bought them from used regular butt connectors and electrical tape  surprisingly the wires were only slightly corroded after five years. Hopefully this will be the last last last time I have to rewire them.
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Oct 6, 2010 06:56
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Mr.Peabody posted:Question, which part of engine typically wears Molybdenum? The piston rings.
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Oct 6, 2010 14:02
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ExecuDork posted:I am very interested in this. Please post pictures, and more updates once you get your hands on an orbital. This is what I've accomplished so far:   Pretend that it looked this this before:  Excuse the lovely cellphone pics. The area that's been restored actually has a really good mirror finish and is incredibly smooth, and it even has those metallic flakes like the rest of the paint job. The oxidation on the side of the ridge that I've been working on is pretty hazy and looks like it's about to come right out, so that part will be easy. As for rust, it's lived its entire life in Central Texas, so there is very little rust. There's a handful of spots on the hood that are maybe .5mm x .5mm or smaller, so I'm not worried about those. The doors have a couple spots that are slightly bigger and my rocker panels are pretty terrible, but other than that, it's mostly just dents and dings that I need to worry about popping. After I get this half of the hood finished, I'm going to clay and wax it and all that jazz for a good side-by-side photo.
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Oct 6, 2010 15:56
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