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Slung Blade posted:Where the hell do you find a 9" angle grinder? That's loving gigantic.  They're more expensive than smaller ones, but not by much.
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Sep 26, 2010 19:26
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Nordlocks hold the brake calipers on my GTO as well, I'd imagine the G8 uses them too. Looking at them I couldn't figure out how they worked in the time it took me to reassemble and forget about them, that's quite a cleaver design.
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Sep 26, 2010 19:39
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FatCow posted:that's quite a cleaver design.  I hear Nordlocks are the way to fly when it comes to turbo manifold bolts and manifold-to-turbo studs/bolts.
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Sep 26, 2010 21:01
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Sockington posted:I hear Nordlocks are the way to fly when it comes to turbo manifold bolts and manifold-to-turbo studs/bolts. What kind of pricing are we talking about here? e: Wait, looking at their info, these things should prevent thread stretching, and work as jam nuts? Do they change the torque spec? Er, I mean the torque necessary to hit spec, rather than changing the spec. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 01:47
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Jared592 posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgwmuZuJ02I This would absolutely kill me having to make sure that each of those washers was positioned correctly while tightening. Especially manifold bolts  What impact does it have on torque values?
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Sep 27, 2010 03:34
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Whitey Ford posted:haha I can barely see or even reach half the bolts on most cars. You just make sure they're facing the correct way, which doesn't sound too difficult. The video mentioned torque values having to increase by 20%.
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Sep 27, 2010 04:42
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looking for a recommendation for a good digital dial caliper that won't break the bank. Thanks
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Sep 27, 2010 05:34
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Brigdh posted:looking for a recommendation for a good digital dial caliper that won't break the bank. I'm not sure how good it is, but I like this cheap Harbor Freight one: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html It measures stuff well enough for me but I don't have really exacting needs.
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Sep 27, 2010 06:26
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mod sassinator posted:I'm not sure how good it is, but I like this cheap Harbor Freight one: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html It measures stuff well enough for me but I don't have really exacting needs. I got one of these. Right after I got it, I stacked it up against a $100+ Mitutoyo we have at work, and it was spot on. The only thing that sucks about the HF one is that you have to remove the battery after each time you use it, or it'll drain it just sitting around. Not too big a deal though, there's a little well in the foam surround of the plastic case that the battery fits right into so you don't lose it.
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Sep 27, 2010 07:35
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sbyers77 posted:I'm sure this will interest someone so I will post it. I can't recall the brand, but it's a really cheap one I got for Christmas one year. Might have been Northern Tool? Only marking on the wrench is that it was made in Taiwan.
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Oct 1, 2010 02:55
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InitialDave posted:Really? They're available drat near anywhere in the UK, most tool shops will have about half a dozen different models. Huh. Well, looking online I see them now. Never seen one in a store before, and I frequent specialty tool shops and welding stores quite often. Maybe I just wasn't paying attention. I briefly theorized that they're more common in the UK because you guys have 240v mains and we only have 120v. The current draw on our house circuitry would be a lot higher than yours, but I suppose that's not a huge deal.
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Oct 1, 2010 06:51
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grover posted:I'd dropped my 1/2" clicky torque wrench and recently it's been binding, so I figured I'd whip up a quick calibration test, too! I used 18lbs 4.6oz worth of weights (verified via pitney bowes postal scale) and clamped the drive directly to my vice. After accounting for the weight of the torque wrench (1.85ft-lbs), it worked out damned near spot-on (<5%) for 20 & 25ft-lbs, which is unfortunately about all I have verifiable weights for. Doesn't mean 100ft-lbs on the wrench is actually 100ft-lbs, but it's probably at least as good as my well calibrated arm, and at least I'm confident the wrench isn't totally foobarred. Hey, that's pretty cool. I was hoping someone else would try this so I could see their results. I don't use my torque wrenches too often, but once I get some good use out of them I plan on redoing these experiments to see if the values have drifted at all or if they stay consistent.
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Oct 1, 2010 21:44
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sbyers77 posted:Hey, that's pretty cool. I was hoping someone else would try this so I could see their results. I don't use my torque wrenches too often, but once I get some good use out of them I plan on redoing these experiments to see if the values have drifted at all or if they stay consistent.  At least it didn't spall and take my eye out or anything, just crack in two places.
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Oct 1, 2010 23:02
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Let me piggyback on the caliper recommendation train and ask: what's a good micrometer that isn't going to cost me hundreds of dollars? I need to measure some shims, and I need to take the inside measurement of the dished shim, if I use my calipers I only get the highest edge.
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Oct 2, 2010 23:21
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Money Walrus posted:Let me piggyback on the caliper recommendation train and ask: what's a good micrometer that isn't going to cost me hundreds of dollars? I need to measure some shims, and I need to take the inside measurement of the dished shim, if I use my calipers I only get the highest edge. Ebay is your friend. http://cgi.ebay.com/Starrett-230-0-1-0001-micrometer-tool-/330457874428?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf0d2fffc
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Oct 3, 2010 00:04
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oxbrain posted:Ebay is your friend. I know I'm nitpicking a little here, but that's not going to help him with the inside of a dished shim unless it's flat in the center of the dish. Is there a special name for the kind of mic with a ball on one/both ends? I kinda need a couple too. 
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Oct 3, 2010 10:45
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They make micrometers with balls on the end called a ball micrometer. They also make some for measuring threads that are sharp at the end. Those are called thread micrometers. Also, in a pinch you can use a regular micrometer with a ball bearing between the end of it and your measured surface.
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Oct 3, 2010 12:43
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Brake rotor micrometer. Note the pointed anvil: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=78378&group_ID=1677&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
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Oct 3, 2010 15:26
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scapulataf posted:Brake rotor micrometer. quote:WARNING Watch out for when I mic this thing, the poo poo is really gonna fly. Hey Tony, put on a grinding shield before you hit that rotor with the mic I could see a situation where someone tries to measure a rotor while it's TURNING on a rotor lathe requiring protection, but that's just foolish anyways. Sockington fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Oct 3, 2010 |
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Oct 3, 2010 15:41
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AnomalousBoners posted:Also, in a pinch you can use a regular micrometer with a ball bearing between the end of it and your measured surface.  Of course. I wasn't thinking hard enough.
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Oct 4, 2010 06:01
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Lock your tools. A few months ago, I threw a fit because my stuff had gone missing. "stuff" meaning several sockets, and my socket set had moved around the house. Several times, without my interaction. Best I got was an "oh I'm sorry." I threatened to lock up my tools and got some astonished responses. Last week I came home, and found my drywall saw laying in the middle of the back yard, with two yard bags full of chopped up tree parts. This weekend, Mother gave sister permission to tear out the bathroom. To "fix" the vanity and hole in the ceiling. Sister takes my tools, and uses them. Cutting a huge hole where the medicine cabinet should be, and doing a hilariously bad job patching the hole in the ceiling. Hey look, my drywall saw showed up again, and now my putty knives are missing. And my nice tape measure is nowhere to be found. So I go to work on my car, and I get stopped 3/4 the way through because I can't find my drill. I looked where I left it. It wasn't there. Mother swears up and down she loaned her drill to a friend. She...has...no...working...drill. The charger, and spare lithium ion battery are sitting in my bedroom. ..... I expect to receive my $80 drill back with a fried battery. The garage is getting cleaned. My tools are getting paint labels, and locked up. I'm sick of this poo poo. This was never a problem when I lived with skreemer.
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Oct 4, 2010 08:00
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Nerobro posted:Lock your tools. Rolling toolboxes can be found pretty cheap right now. Lots of people laid off and selling stuff to get by.
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Oct 4, 2010 08:26
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I need to lock up my Dad's tools. I can never find them after he gets done using them...
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Oct 4, 2010 16:22
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I've been thinking about getting a cheap random-orbital buffer to make waxing my car less of an all-day affair. Is there anything in the under $75 range that's going to treat me significantly better than the $20 HF? http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-random-orbit-waxer-polisher-43424.html
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Oct 6, 2010 16:53
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I'm partial to Mac Tools, and these are some of the best tools I've ever bought from them. http://www.mactools.com/product/tabid/120/p-320131-spk9-set.aspx  I love this set. The extra-deep sockets make Ford modular V-8 tune-ups a breeze. http://www.mactools.com/Product/tabid/120/productid/325473/variantid/316232/Default.aspx  I didn't get this exact set but it's the closest I can find on their website. Flip the drivers over and they double as seal drivers.
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Oct 6, 2010 18:39
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eddiewalker posted:I've been thinking about getting a cheap random-orbital buffer to make waxing my car less of an all-day affair. Is there anything in the under $75 range that's going to treat me significantly better than the $20 HF? I bought the $30 (before 20% off) 7" polisher and while it has some balls and worked awesome on sanded plastic it did not seem to do as well on swirl removal of paint as my porter cable.
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Oct 7, 2010 03:31
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Uthor posted:You just make sure they're facing the correct way, which doesn't sound too difficult. I just bought $30 worth of Nordlock washers because of this video. And because today I had a turbo downpipe nut+stud come out of my turbo housing AGAIN and cause a huge leak. I've never had nuts and bolts fall out of anything as much as they like to free themselves from the turbo and downpipe.
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Oct 7, 2010 06:56
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Question for you guys (and I apologize if this is a repeat) but do oil extractors actually work? Truth be told I am an absolute retard and utterly incapable of draining the oil in my truck or any other vehicle without re-creating a model of the Deep Water Horizon incident with almost all 4 quarts of oil in my goddamned truck. It doesn't matter how well I seem to prepare because something goes wrong, such as a massive gust of wind blowing oil in to another car 5 feet away or a leak developing in my oil pan. Therefore, I have decided that if I really want to save money and not destroy the planet (and the driveway) every time I change my oil, I should invest in an oil extractor like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html My big question is does it work? I've had no success with those 1-man brake bleeder kits and always go back to pumping the brake every time. This looks to be a larger version of it, and I'm not sure how successful it will be. I know the engine oil will have to be hot for the best chance at success but I'm just nervous about sinking $100 into what might be a bigger version of a mity-vac.
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Oct 10, 2010 17:15
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One of my workmates uses one (well, the same idea, not that particular make), and it seems to do a good job - the first time he used it, he pulled the sump plug afterwards to check, and it was pretty much bone dry.
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Oct 10, 2010 17:56
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Maybe you just need a bigger oil pan? The stuff I've seen in auto part stores these days are really crap--barely 1" lip and the size of a small dinner plate so I could see oil splashing everywhere.
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Oct 10, 2010 18:10
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mod sassinator posted:Maybe you just need a bigger oil pan? The stuff I've seen in auto part stores these days are really crap--barely 1" lip and the size of a small dinner plate so I could see oil splashing everywhere. The oil pans around here suck poo poo. You either get those really wide ones that have the hole in the center to drain the oil into and a 1/4" lip around it (so the oil splashes goddamn EVERYWHERE), or like you said, the ones as wide as a beer can but at least are almost 2" deep. Those don't splash everywhere but you have to make sure you aim right the first time, or else you're adjusting it and wiping oil off the ground again. Still though, not a bad idea to go around to some flea markets and see if someone's selling an older oil pan that's actually made right. I'd almost swear that they intentionally design them lovely nowadays, as if the manufacturers are being paid off by dealerships and instant oil-change places.
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Oct 10, 2010 18:19
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The shop I work on stuff at has one of these things http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-17892-Transmission-Drain-Funnel/dp/B0002SR6WA You can get bigger/different ones as-needed. They make it far easier to not make a mess, especially since we put it as close to the oil pan as possible using an adjustable cart. The oil extractor things seem like a complex solution to a simple problem.
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Oct 10, 2010 18:34
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What about installing a petcock oil pan plug replacement? They make em with a nipple so you can attach hose, too. e: like this:  From here. or this:  From here. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Oct 10, 2010 |
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Oct 10, 2010 20:34
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Splizwarf posted:What about installing a petcock oil pan plug replacement? They make em with a nipple so you can attach hose, too. Those are a good idea, much preferred to sinking $100 into an oil extractor. I'm going to shop around and see if I can find one to fit a Ranger. Not sure if Ford uses universal sizes on their drain plugs, since those sites list the V-8s and V-10s, maybe it shares a plug with the Ranger.
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Oct 11, 2010 01:12
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Just make sure you'll have the clearance. I'd love to use them but the pan plugs on my Volvos are pretty badly street-scarred. The cars aren't slammed, just old.  You should be fine in a Ranger though.
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Oct 11, 2010 02:11
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Splizwarf posted:What about installing a petcock oil pan plug replacement? They make em with a nipple so you can attach hose, too. I've been using them with my diesel truck for a few years now. Seriously the best thing ever. With the plug the oil ends up hitting the skid plate and spraying all over, and then dripping for days and days. With this, it flows nicely into the pan with no mess, and I can even turn it off mid-drain if something goes awry. For what it's worth I put a ziptie around the version I have as kind of a 'safety' just in case somehow it came open around the spring clip safety that's built in.
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Oct 11, 2010 12:35
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Splizwarf posted:What about installing a petcock oil pan plug replacement? They make em with a nipple so you can attach hose, too. The valve restricts flow, so the oil has to be hot to flow well, or else it just dribbles out. The oil only flows in the last 1/4 turn or so ( so it's easy to get everything ready without acrobatics), and it's tool-less, all just finger tight knurled fittings. I drained my oil into milk jugs a couple times (no clean-up) but lately, I just ditch the orange hose and just use my normal oil pan since I need it for the filter anyhow.  
grover fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Oct 11, 2010 |
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Oct 11, 2010 14:20
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I used a $5.99 fluid transfer pump to put fresh Honda "Dual Pump" differential fluid in the rear diff of my mom's CR-V yesterday. It worked like a dream.
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Oct 11, 2010 16:08
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I thought about posting the Fram one too but their filters have such a bad reputation here that I figured I'd get a raft of poo poo about it.  PBCrunch posted:I used a $5.99 fluid transfer pump to put fresh Honda "Dual Pump" differential fluid in the rear diff of my mom's CR-V yesterday. It worked like a dream. Where did you buy it? The Harbor Freight fluid transfer hand pumps always leak and I haven't seen them elsewhere.
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Oct 11, 2010 16:49
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grover posted:I've had Fram suredrains on my Camaro and 4Runner for probably about 6 years, and they're great. Oil changes are even more trivial than before. I put one of these on my truck years ago when I still had the old 350. Unfortunately, with the 20w50 I had to run to keep some oil from not getting blown out of the valve breathers (blowby what), even if the oil was hot it took for-loving-ever for it to drain. I suspect with synthetic oils and thinner oil grades, though, it'd probably work great.
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Oct 11, 2010 17:23
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