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Sorry to double-post, but I just got these onto my computer and thought ya'll might enjoy them. I have a few more if you want to see them, but these came out the best.     A guy on a dirtbike doing a stoppy down some stairs. Apparently this is normal in Germany.
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Oct 3, 2010 13:25
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Wow, changing the lower control arm on the new 525i wasn't bad at all. It seemed fine but once I got the one end loose I noticed that the ball joint was all limp. Almost all the shimmy at 100km is gone. I expect the hub centric rings to take care of the rest. What kind of oil would everyone here recommend? The engine is an M50TUB and we're approaching winter here in Canada, so temps will be going below 0C soon. BMW lists about 8 different oil weights including 3 vastly different ones for my temp range which doesn't give me much to go on.
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Oct 4, 2010 07:33
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8ender posted:8 different oil weights including 3 vastly different ones for my temp range which doesn't give me much to go on. Honestly, I'd run the "German Castrol" 0W30 -- there's a lot of sperging on Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG) about it, but it's basically a high-quality fully-synthetic oil that flows quickly at low temps but stays nice and viscous at operating temp. Great stuff, tried it in both my Honda race car and our track 325is with no complaints about oil pressure.
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Oct 4, 2010 09:07
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I recently bought my first BMW - a 2005 325i sedan. This thread has been very helpful and is probably 50% of my motivation to buy one. The car has bi-xenon projectors, and I've come to realize that the projector bowls must be afflicted with the burning/dimming issue that fairly well documented on the BMW forums, but there doesn't seem to be any fix. Those forums are horrible, so I turn to you all for some advice. Barring spending ludicrous amounts of money to get new ZDW headlight assemblies that would also probably burn and dim way too soon, I seem to have two options: 1.) Buy the common aftermarket replacement headlight assemblies called Projector46 or P46. They come with angel eyes (which I'm not sure how I feel about) and single, low beam projectors that look to be pretty low quality. There are also issues with bulb outage idiot lights and probable high beam problems. On top of all that, I don't trust any of the sellers on the internet and can't really understand what the hell I'm buying. 2.) Buy some standard halogen headlight assemblies and not worry about all this nonsense. I am heavily leaning this way. I don't even particularly like HID lights - the blue color and sudden cutoff take a lot of getting used to, I guess, but I don't like it. Anyway, does anyone know if halogen lights would work as a simple plug-and-play solution? I'm mildly concerned about them fitting, and very concerned about how the high beams would function. The bi-xenons use the inner halogen lights only as "flash to pass", and I don't know if the halogens have high beams wired into the low beam, outer lights. I would really hate to lose the ability to have high beams without holding onto the stalk. In either case, I would like to keep the leveling sensors attached in case ZDW headlight replacements ever get cheap or if a solution presents itself, but would that cause any problems? I'm assuming I could disconnect some wires and leave them where they are.
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Oct 4, 2010 16:22
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barakus posted:Headlight questions... I thought the auto-level was only available for the xenon lights, so unless there is a simple xenon to halogen conversion, you'd have to get new assemblies and would lose the auto-level...
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Oct 4, 2010 16:50
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Fermunky posted:I thought the auto-level was only available for the xenon lights, so unless there is a simple xenon to halogen conversion, you'd have to get new assemblies and would lose the auto-level... Sorry, I didn't write that clearly: I mean I would probably not take off the auto-leveling sensors from the suspension to make my life easier. I don't expect to have auto-leveling with the halogens, but I assume I'd need to disconnect the leveling wiring.
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Oct 4, 2010 17:50
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Sterndotstern posted:Honestly, I'd run the "German Castrol" 0W30 -- there's a lot of sperging on Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG) about it, but it's basically a high-quality fully-synthetic oil that flows quickly at low temps but stays nice and viscous at operating temp. Im thinking about picking this up for my e30 318is for winter in Wisconsin this year. That should be fine for really cold temperatures, right? I previously used Mobil 1 0w40 which seemed to work fine.
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Oct 4, 2010 17:57
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Dyscrasia posted:Im thinking about picking this up for my e30 318is for winter in Wisconsin this year. Yeah, I don't even live somewhere that has cold weather, but the 0Wxx oils are all I would ever run in freezing conditions. Not only does it flow well at engine startup through the entire warmup period (which might be long in your weather), it protects extremely well at high temps because of the quantity of viscosity modifiers give it a shallower viscosity vs. temp line (meaning 0W30 stays thicker than a straight-30W, for instance, at temps above 100*C) and that's why I used it in my track cars. According to the BITOG forums, the 0W30 "German Castrol" is quite close to a 0W40 in terms of actual performance, so I wouldn't hesitate to run it in an E30.
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Oct 4, 2010 18:11
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I'm looking to buy some snow tires. I live in North NJ, so while winters can be pretty bad, they aren't horrific by any means. Here are my options, all in 225/45R17 for a 1999 M3: General Altimax Arctic (studdable) - $471.07 installed - I would be running this tire without studs if I got it. Would that make a difference? Continental ExtremeWinterContact (studless) - $531.47 installed Dunlop SP Winter Sport 3D (performance) - $653.31 installed - I am only interested if it is made of 100% winter compound, unlike what Bridgestone does with their snow performance tires. Does anyone know if they are? I know that generally Michelin and Nokian make the best snow tires, but they are just too expensive! Help me out, right now I am leaning towards the Continentals. Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Oct 5, 2010 |
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Oct 4, 2010 23:20
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Jesus christ did the hub centric rings ever make a difference on my E34. Four lovely little plastic rings and all my vibration at speed is gone. Amazing. I also noticed last night that the M50 engine seems to have the same "spark plug top auto oiling" feature that my old Subaru had.
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Oct 5, 2010 18:19
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hopefully it doesn't have the "make chocolate pudding" feature as well!
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Oct 5, 2010 19:13
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8ender posted:Jesus christ did the hub centric rings ever make a difference on my E34. Four lovely little plastic rings and all my vibration at speed is gone. Amazing. The valve cover gasket and spark plug rings aren't that terrible to do. Combine it with some new spark plugs and a compression test for a fun-filled weekend of excitement!
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Oct 5, 2010 19:43
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Sterndotstern posted:The valve cover gasket and spark plug rings aren't that terrible to do. Combine it with some new spark plugs and a compression test for a fun-filled weekend of excitement! Actually I already gave it a compression test when I did the plugs and its a nearly perfect 205-210 psi across all the cylinders. Hooray!
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Oct 5, 2010 20:24
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8ender posted:Jesus christ did the hub centric rings ever make a difference on my E34. Four lovely little plastic rings and all my vibration at speed is gone. Amazing. Something about coilpacks and oil. My 328 fills them nicely and so did my buddy's C230. I have a brand new valve cover gasket, plugs, and rubber washers to go in. I just need some drat daylight in which to do it. Just another note, really old oil is enough to throw a VANOS related CEL on an M52. I was fighting with various places to try and diagnose the drat code and it wasn't until I brought it to the dealer that they noticed the guy hadn't gotten an oil change in 2 years (fuuuuuuuck). I put in some fresh 0w40 synthetic with a new filter and the code cleared itself after a few weeks. I'll now be doing a complete fluid change anytime I buy another used car. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 01:17
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Can anyone with an M50 engine in here tell me what the temp gauge reads during normal operating temperature? How long does your car take to warm up in ~50F weather?
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Oct 6, 2010 04:01
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Mine sits with the needle a hair past vertical, I understand that to be the normal position. I haven't had it in cool weather yet to know how long it takes to get there.
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Oct 6, 2010 04:42
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Hmm. Mine seems to sit just between 1/4 and 1/2, closer to 1/2. Seems to take quite a while to get there too. A thermostat might be in my future. Edit: Just found a picture of the E34 gauge with some temperatures on it for reference. Looks like my cars topping out around 75C which seems to correlate with some of the low temp thermostats available for the car. I hope this doesn't suck in the winter. 8ender fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 06:03
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8ender posted:Hmm. Mine seems to sit just between 1/4 and 1/2, closer to 1/2. Seems to take quite a while to get there too. A thermostat might be in my future. I'd definitely install a new thermostat. I had the same problem (M60 engine though) - long warm-up time, and it cooled down when driving fast. New thermostat and all problems were solved. When I took it out, I could feel that the spring in the thermostat was weak compared to the new one, so obviously coolant was getting into the engine all the time, even when the thermostat was supposed to be closed. It should be in the middle after approximately 5-8 minutes of driving (depending on how much you sit in idle or drive it at higher RPM), and stay in the middle under all conditions.
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Oct 6, 2010 15:22
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What's everyone's opinion on gear oil? I've got an E46 1999 328i 5-speed and I'm finally embarking on replacing the diff mounts and input/output seals and cover seal. Thus I'm going to need new diff fluid. I know I need 75W90 gear oil, but some recommend RP, some recommend Redline, etc. I know everyone loves RP, but http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=680092 and the attached pdf makes me worry that it's poo poo. I trust the AI goons way more than the e46fanatics guys, so please help me out here. I can still return my RP for another week or so. Thanks.
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Oct 6, 2010 21:06
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Deceptor101 posted:What's everyone's opinion on gear oil? I've got an E46 1999 328i 5-speed and I'm finally embarking on replacing the diff mounts and input/output seals and cover seal. Thus I'm going to need new diff fluid. I know I need 75W90 gear oil, but some recommend RP, some recommend Redline, etc. I know everyone loves RP, but I've used both, no complaints about either. I used RP in limited slip diffs since it already has the LSD-friendly additive package and Redline in my open diffs. I guess I'm not a normal case though since I changed it every three trackdays/oil changes. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 23:41
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Sterndotstern posted:I've used both, no complaints about either. I used RP in limited slip diffs since it already has the LSD-friendly additive package and Redline in my open diffs. Well, there's nothing wrong with changing it more often, other than spending a bit of money. Is there anything wrong with using the RP with it's limited slip additive in an open diff?
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Oct 7, 2010 06:11
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I just bought Redline 75w90 and it has limited slip additives in it as well.
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Oct 7, 2010 13:14
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For what it's worth this is from the Old School Maintenance Schedule regarding Red Line 75W90 (which he recommends):OSMS posted:The difference between Red Line 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil and Red Line 75W-90NS
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Oct 7, 2010 13:53
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The Roadwarrior fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Dec 23, 2011 |
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Oct 7, 2010 16:51
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I want 17x9's and 265/40R17 Star Specs on my late model E30. (Ain't gonna fuckin' happen, but damned if I'm not going to try)
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Oct 8, 2010 00:10
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I'm going to look at this car tomorrow http://allentown.craigslist.org/cto/1993263969.html Anything specific to be aware of? The car has 160k miles, engine 60k, new snow tires in the rear or so he says. It isn't inspected either so I'm expecting to haggle a major chunk of that price down. My primary goal is a light commuter car, and e30s appear to have a good aftermarket and reliable fan base. What gas mileage can expect from it? Nitrox fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Oct 8, 2010 |
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Oct 8, 2010 04:41
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Nitrox posted:I'm going to look at this car tomorrow http://allentown.craigslist.org/cto/1993263969.html 30's, methinks. If the motor is in good shape you've really got no worries, other than rust. Check the rocker panels, rear fender wells, and trunk for rust.
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Oct 8, 2010 05:39
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Beach Bum posted:30's, methinks. If the motor is in good shape you've really got no worries, other than rust. Check the rocker panels, rear fender wells, and trunk for rust. In British MPG (imperial gallons are bigger), I'd expect 30, more or less on the nose, assuming everything works (fuel filter good, no air leaks on the intake side, clean air filter, good spark, fuel not pissing out of the pipework near the tank, etc.). Rust is common, but ignore it if it's not structural (unless you're looking for a project car). The benefit of an M40 powered e30 is that it will be simple to fix, and if it has been well-maintained (or if you don't mind fixing everything yourself on day 1), bulletproof. The downside is that it will be slow, without paying you back in particularly good fuel consumption. If mine is anything to go by, E30s are also very sensitive to tyre choice. If you put Chinese "noname racer x 3000" remolds on them, they can be very scary (even with 115hp). Worn-out bushings and ball joints just make it worse. Whereas if you put good rubber on them, they are rock-solid. If you're in PA, that means decent winters and summers, even though you only have to pay for 14" tyres. For me, if you just want a commuter car, being slightly thirsty and having an appetite for decent rubber are not recommendations. I rather like my 4-cylinder e30, but it's an M42 (+20hp), and I commute by bike, so it's only used when I have to carry poo poo or when the weather's just that bad. On the inspection front, if it has the hydraulic headlight aiming system, check it's working. From what I gather, it's basically a sealed unit. If either hose leaks or the pump packs up in the dash, you have to buy a complete new system and route it back through the firewall. Or rig up your own adjusters.
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Oct 8, 2010 11:28
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I'm starting to get into the swing of things for owning an old BMW 1. Wash car 2. Wax car 3. Glue back on all the trim pieces that are falling off 4. Replace a lot of bushings 5. Drive
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Oct 10, 2010 04:23
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So, I kinda got this: 2000, 50k, 18.5k +ttl, super clean, super tight, absolutely awesome to drive. So my E30 318iS will be up for sale eventually (Seattle area).
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Oct 10, 2010 07:06
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So I am probably going to go look at a 98 318ti, the active version I think, on Monday. 143k miles and from photos it looks fairly clean, but I will obv know more then. Any particular issues for these cars I should be aware of or check for? My BMW experience is limited to fixing an old girlfriends 3-series a few years ago, so I just don't want to get burned on an obvious thing. Also, this dude is asking 3500, but that seems 500-1000 too high. Is there some secret hidden value in here somewhere I don't know about? I'd hate to lowball the guy out of ignorance. 
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Oct 10, 2010 08:13
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AlternateAccount posted:So I am probably going to go look at a 98 318ti, the active version I think, on Monday. 143k miles and from photos it looks fairly clean, but I will obv know more then. Any particular issues for these cars I should be aware of or check for? My BMW experience is limited to fixing an old girlfriends 3-series a few years ago, so I just don't want to get burned on an obvious thing. At that price with that mileage, I would want full service records with a recent Inspection 2, plenty of thread left on tires and no rust or fluid leaks.
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Oct 10, 2010 10:19
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So I've Factory ordered a 335i xDrive Coupe, and in doing some research how concerned should I be over the whole High Pressure Fuel Pump fiasco from the N54? I had a Lexus that ate 4 Batteries so I'm already somewhat accustomed to my car possibly not starting in the morning 
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Oct 10, 2010 11:55
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Is it a 2011 or 2010? If it is a 2011 it will have the n55 which does have the same fuel pump as the n54, but there aren't as many reported cases of a HPFP failure (like 10 n54 failures to 1 n55 failure). BMW has a 10 year/120k mile warranty on the part now as well, not sure if it extends to the 2011 models yet though.
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Oct 10, 2010 16:22
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Can anyone take a stab at where the CD changer pre-wiring is hiding on my Z4? All north american cars are pre-wired for a CD changer, which consists of a six and three pin connector. I'm looking to install an iPod adapter and having no luck with the six pin connector (the three pin was easy). It's a pre-wired NA car without a changer or nav. The iPod adapter instructions say it's in the trunk between the carpet and cabin divider. The dealership says I have to pull the interior panels to get to it. I've torn apart the trunk and the interior, and I've removed the fabric sheath on all the wire bundles in the trunk. This six pin adapter just doesn't seem to be there.  
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Oct 10, 2010 17:52
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doogle posted:Is it a 2011 or 2010? If it is a 2011 it will have the n55 which does have the same fuel pump as the n54, but there aren't as many reported cases of a HPFP failure (like 10 n54 failures to 1 n55 failure). BMW has a 10 year/120k mile warranty on the part now as well, not sure if it extends to the 2011 models yet though. Yes its a 2011, hopefully it'll work out. If the issue continues to be as bad for the N55 then I would hope they warranty the part for 10 years for that engine.
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Oct 10, 2010 22:44
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Hey guys, look what I bought!  Pretty awesome so far, but I'm already going poor replacing all of the small things that are broken/missing. I still need fogs or the delete plates, an is lip (though that might be too low), and random interior bits (the stupid knob from the sunroof is missing) . Also, the rear tires are rubbing like a bastard, but I'm getting the fenders rolled a bit more on Tuesday. If that doesn't work, I may have to look into spacers. 
goml23 fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Oct 11, 2010 |
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Oct 11, 2010 03:41
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So jealous of all the Americans that can find E30s in decent condition for a decent price. I can't find an E30 in decent condition or even a complete beater a decent price.
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Oct 11, 2010 04:19
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OrangeFurious posted:Can anyone take a stab at where the CD changer pre-wiring is hiding on my Z4? All north american cars are pre-wired for a CD changer, which consists of a six and three pin connector. I'm looking to install an iPod adapter and having no luck with the six pin connector (the three pin was easy). It's a pre-wired NA car without a changer or nav. I'm not sure on a Z4 but if you're doing the Dice unit mine was supposedly located on the left side of the car. It wasn't really hidden. Taking off all the panels exposed it pretty quickly if I recall. This is again an 02 M3 so the years and models are off I'm sure. Also I'm not sure but Dice offered an option to directly plug into the back of my stereo. At least the retailer I bought mine from did. It was called the "professional install" version or something but basically I have no idea why more sites don't sell this one. I didn't have to run long cables from the truck to the front or anything and it simply adapted right to my stock stereo harness. You can buy this kit from https://www.europeanautosource.com . They also have awesome customer service for what it is worth. Here's a link to the page where it shows the trunk and radio install versions: http://www.europeanautosource.com/index.php?models_id=23&display_cnt=999 I'm fairy certain they have the radio install harness for sale individually for $49.99 here as well. Here's a link to the radio interface version for your car: http://www.europeanautosource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3549 I would also look into purchasing the spec.dock powdered adapter. It sits in your ash tray area like it was factory and looks great if you don't want wires. I wouldn't recommend it if you're not using a touch or manual though. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Oct 11, 2010 |
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Oct 11, 2010 04:52
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BraveUlysses posted:So, I kinda got this: YOU SON OF A BITCH. At least it's not the S54 version, or I might have had to track you down and kill you. I want an S54 clownshoe sooo bad.
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Oct 11, 2010 05:54
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