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zamin posted:This is what I've accomplished so far: So you're telling me that I've been driving around with lovely looking paint on my accord for no good reason? I just need rubbing compound?
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Oct 7, 2010 13:26
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Coasterphreak posted:So you're telling me that I've been driving around with lovely looking paint on my accord for no good reason? I just need rubbing compound? And a LOT of elbow grease. Trust me when I say that unless you have an orbital/rotary, this is gonna be a long process.
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Oct 7, 2010 16:00
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And make sure you put some wax on top right after, too! You're basically taking the top layer off of your paint, and any clearcoat or former wax protection it had is gone. That finish won't last long unprotected.
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Oct 7, 2010 17:50
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I washed, claybar-ed(it didn't really need it), and waxed my car today. First time I've ever waxed a car, first time I've washed a car in about 5 years. 
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Oct 8, 2010 06:33
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Radiator and thermostat on my 9000 Aero yesterday, no pictures because it was god damned cold and dark out when I did it. No more coolant leaks, at least.
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Oct 8, 2010 07:18
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I jacked off my Cooper S. Really. Ok, I took the stupid Union Jack roof Vinyl decal of the roof. It went from this:  to this: (lovely cameraphone pic)  The plain black mirror caps are on order. I also cleaned a shitload of bugs out of the radiator and intercooler. drat the intercooler is a fuckin' bug MAGNET. nitrogen fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Oct 9, 2010 |
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Oct 9, 2010 06:01
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   Tints! 35% all around with 15% in the rear
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Oct 9, 2010 21:23
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lovely picture, but I replaced the dead cassette player in my 1986 Subaru XT with the CB radio that was on my dashboard. It fit the stock bracket and trim, 10-4 driiiiiverrrrrr
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Oct 10, 2010 02:18
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It took me nearly two days to install some Sunpro gauges in my Malibu. I could not, for the love of holy hell, properly install the temp gauge line into the engine because the nut was just in that right spot where you cannot get an open end wrench on it no matter how many different wrenches you have. I spent a good three hours trying to get it from underneath the car, through the wheel well, and even overhead, but all the wrenches I had were just too long. I thought about buying a 5/8 stubby, but then it hit me: a crowfoot would tighten that bitch like nothing. You'd think people that work in tools would know what a crowfoot was, but... "A crowfoot? What's that?" "I know what a crowfoot is. It's used for picking up nails." "Is that an actual tool?" "Maybe you're thinking of something else, sir?" "Isn't a crowfoot used for tractors?" Those were actual responses from people at Lowe's, Ace Hardware, and two local tool stores close by. Yeah, yeah, I know, I bit the goddamn bullet and headed to Sears. No crowfoots sold individually and the sets were on sale for $50, which I didn't want to spend. I left brokenhearted and stopped at Auto Zone on the way home for shits and giggles. $15 later and I've got a full set of Great Neck SAE crowfoots which put that drat temp gauge in proper and sexy-like earlier today. They worked, so I can't complain. The sad thing: my dad has at least three sets of Snap-On crowfoots in both metric and standard, but damned if he knows where they are. If I ever find those, they become mine since he's too old to work on anything anymore. Oil, volts and temp gauges are in, idiot lights are out, and the world turned as one.
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Oct 10, 2010 02:43
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You Are A Elf posted:It took me nearly two days to install some Sunpro gauges in my Malibu. I could not, for the love of holy hell, properly install the temp gauge line into the engine because the nut was just in that right spot where you cannot get an open end wrench on it no matter how many different wrenches you have. I spent a good three hours trying to get it from underneath the car, through the wheel well, and even overhead, but all the wrenches I had were just too long. I thought about buying a 5/8 stubby, but then it hit me: a crowfoot would tighten that bitch like nothing. You'd think people that work in tools would know what a crowfoot was, but... I thought they were called a crowsfoot but either way you think someone would know what you were talking about.
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Oct 10, 2010 03:36
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Replaces the rear parking brake cable today, that was a bitch of a job. Surprisingly getting the drum apart and back together was simple, even without the propper spring tools. Getting the old cable out of the junction however... XD
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Oct 10, 2010 04:09
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I installed some interior bling in the RS 4 to make up for the recent brake debacle. The car was designed with a sweet flat-bottom steering wheel that featured buttons for sport mode and controls for the lap timer (visible here). That wheel only had a single-stage airbag, however, so US RS 4s got the same boring wheel as the B7 S4: Instead of sport mode and lap timer buttons, this one comes with radio and phone controls. These are actually a lot more useful to me, especially since I don't use sport mode anymore: I no longer have a valved exhaust, and I find the throttle response in sport mode too touchy. Enter Europrice and the TT RS steering wheel, which they will import and rebadge with an RS 4 emblem. It's a nice, thick flat-bottom wheel that features the familiar radio and phone controls. The diameter isn't any smaller than the S4 wheel, but the rim is noticeably thicker, especially at 9 and 3. It's much nicer to hold.   
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Oct 10, 2010 05:58
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On my 67 Chevy I replaced a leaking, rusted out freeze plug, fixed the starter so it works every time and bled the brakes. The brakes actually work now but the pedal goes almost to the floor so I'm going to replace the master cylinder next. It is almost time to get a tag for it, right before it snows.
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Oct 10, 2010 06:07
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wav3form posted:I thought they were called a crowsfoot but either way you think someone would know what you were talking about. I've heard them called both. I just went with whatever term I saw more of online, but I call them either/or. It's like how my dad calls a flared crowfoot wrench a "beenut wrench," even though I can find nothing of that name online; just a flared crowfoot wrench. Probably one of those deals with a name brand taking over the common name like a crescent or allen wrench. But yeah, either name would get some response from someone that knows tools.
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Oct 10, 2010 06:59
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You Are A Elf posted:I've heard them called both. I just went with whatever term I saw more of online, but I call them either/or. It's like how my dad calls a flared crowfoot wrench a "beenut wrench," even though I can find nothing of that name online; just a flared crowfoot wrench. Probably one of those deals with a name brand taking over the common name like a crescent or allen wrench. Dollars to donuts he's talking about the tool you'd use on "B" nuts; it's a flare wrench. 20 seconds with Google; you just gotta think like a crazy old man. 
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Oct 10, 2010 11:20
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Changed the oil so I don't have to do it in the middle of winter, and put a dollop of grease on the head of all the calliper bolts because I forgot to do it when I did the brakes weeks ago. I'm now 0 for 5 on 'removing drain plugs without spilling oil all over me.'
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Oct 10, 2010 16:15
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Managed to get it from a trailer on the street, into my garage. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Not easy as it sounds.  Click here for the full 640x480 image.
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Oct 11, 2010 00:24
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Working on replacing my fuel pump on a third gen Camaro. It's basically the worst of the worst of GM 80s engineering. Tank stuck up under the rear axle, filler neck 15 feet long.
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Oct 11, 2010 00:44
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This time last year, I was shoveling snow. Today, I washed my car in shorts & sandals. Also, got new wheels. 19" Rotiform BLQs.  
DropShadow fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Oct 11, 2010 |
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Oct 11, 2010 01:46
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Finally got around to doing a coolant system flush using Prestone's Super Radiator Cleaner. Before I even got started, I figured I would need to remove the plastic shielding under my engine. It was only after I got it all down that I realized that I didn't need to take it off to get to my radiator drain petcock.
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Oct 11, 2010 02:31
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Splizwarf posted:Dollars to donuts he's talking about the tool you'd use on "B" nuts; it's a flare wrench. drat, man, that's it right there. I honestly thought it had something to do with aircrafts since my dad was an military aircraft mechanic for almost 40 years. He speaks in a lot of old-timey, military and self-made colloquialisms that just confuse me sometimes. I guess I should have just straight out asked him what the hell a "B" nut wrench was, huh?  To do with my car, I adjusted the timing on my Malibu since I had to remove the distributor to put the oil pressure sending line in (well, I didn't have to remove it, but it makes it much easier with it out of the way). It's got a sexy idle now. Ahh yeah.
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Oct 11, 2010 02:36
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DropShadow posted:Also, got new wheels. 19" Rotiform BLQs. Interesting. I like them.
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Oct 11, 2010 03:12
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Oil Change- went quick and uneventful... Switched out my coolant from ~20%/80% to 50/50 in anticipation for winter. I always make a gigantic loving mess every time I deal with coolant, I'm still trying to figure out a way to burp the system without it overflowing like crazy right before the thermostat opens. Is the key to just fill it up halfway or so, let it idle until the t-stat opens, and then top it off?... I'm afraid of more air getting in that way... but yeah, COOLANT EVERYWHERE. Also cleaned a bunch of various surfaces with Simple Green. Simple Green is the loving poo poo. Smells like the color green and destroys everything in its path.
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Oct 11, 2010 07:08
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Piano posted:Oil Change- went quick and uneventful... http://www.handsontools.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Radiator-Funnel-Kit_p_5079.html
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Oct 11, 2010 13:51
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put suspensions on my car. no, its not the turbo hatch. i bought a beater 94 integra. previous owner put an intake and headers (stock muffler though!!! oh what a find!!) on the LS but otherwise it's bone stock. or was. kyb agx's h&r springs ebay 5pc strut barzz blackworks LCA'S skunk2 front& rear adjustable upper control arms a-spec racing 24mm rear sway & bushings, rear reincorcement tie-bar blox adjustable pillow-ball end links all done yesterday. needless to say it was dark when everything was all done and adjusted, not a good time to learn a new setup. i finally took it out basically all day today today, and its pretty fuckin' awesome. debating on a cheap&ghetto ls-vtec as i have literally everything necessary already, or throwing on the jackson racing SC i've been saving for the hatch. i dunno yet.
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Oct 11, 2010 20:58
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Fitted a sandwich plate to my oil filter connector with temperature and pressure senders for the Defi Link unit. Right bastard of a job getting the wiring through as the hole + grommet I made is starting to get severely overloaded and there isn't much scope for making another one* Had to disconnect and reconnect a bunch of wires and hoses in that area to get it to go in and still managed to destroy the plug for the oil pressure sensor. Fortunately I was able to replace that plug by using the little 3 pin plug of a spare ATI graphics card fan. Just needed to file down one of the locating notches and it fits perfectly. Start up the car, "Why is it running like a bag of crap on idle?" later followed by: "Why is my boost gauge reading a constant 0 bar?" Re-attach the hose for the boost gauge, which is directly to a pipe on the inlet plenum, and everything is great again. Now if anyone knows the normal idle oil pressure for an RB20DET engine, please let me know as it seems a bit on the low side at around 20 psi. * my car has a little bolt on plate where the clutch master cylinder would go if I had a manual, so I removed that, drilled it and put a grommet in Lum fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Oct 11, 2010 |
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Oct 11, 2010 21:42
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Didn't do any upgrades, but I did drive this on the weekend: Have to say I'm pretty impressed with the stock e36 suspension - 12 years old at this point and I still kept up with mk4/5 GTIs, a MS3 and an SVT contour.
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Oct 11, 2010 23:03
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Lum posted:Now if anyone knows the normal idle oil pressure for an RB20DET engine, please let me know as it seems a bit on the low side at around 20 psi. Just looking around because I'm bored, the R32 manual says it should be "around 1 kg/cm2" for idle, which would be about 15psi.
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Oct 12, 2010 05:03
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Duct taped my rear corner window (coupe) to keep the rain out. Some shitstain decided to smash my window out overnight, throw his cigarette into the backseat, and take a piss in through the newly created opening. Still racking my brain thinking about who I could have possibly made THAT angry lately...I hope those little triangular windows in 06+ civics are cheap.
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Oct 12, 2010 05:42
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Sold it! Goodbye, big red. Someone backed into your fender and I got $1,300 for it, then I sold you with two bad tires, a cracked windshield and a dented fender for $2,500. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyJ91btUlKQ
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Oct 12, 2010 15:21
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zamin posted:Just looking around because I'm bored, the R32 manual says it should be "around 1 kg/cm2" for idle, which would be about 15psi. I found that too, but it seems awfully low. Doesn't the oil basically stop working at 12psi?
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Oct 12, 2010 21:40
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Lum posted:I found that too, but it seems awfully low. My Accord's idle pressure is supposed to be 14psi, but it's also a 2L 4cyl, so I don't know if that makes a difference. As for what I did today, spent the last 5 hours working on my paint. The first 4 were with the rubbing compound on my hood, and made a lot of progress. Then I took the rubbing compound in a kind of half-rear end way to the driver's fender and the driver's door. Managed to knock out a decent amount of oxidation on those two panels and severely reduced how bad a couple of scratches on my door were. After that, washed, clayed, washed and then stuck two coats of wax on those panels, mostly to protect the paint until I can get another shot at it. It doesn't look amazing or showroom fresh (yet), but it looks about a million times better than what it was before and the rest of the car. I've got a friend that's gonna let me borrow his orbital and rotary buffer, so once I get my hands on those, I can probably finish the rest of the car in a couple weeks, schedule permitting.
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Oct 12, 2010 22:10
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Captain Crabsticks posted:I just bought a '96 LS for a winter beater a week ago. I spent the entire weekend drilling off the rusted rear brake calipers and replacing them. My first time doing any brake work myself. There's so much rust since the previous owner stupidly stored it for the winter outdoors with the handbrake engaged. Just got my temp pass today, now to get it safety and emissions tested 
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Oct 12, 2010 22:11
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Crustashio posted:Didn't do any upgrades, but I did drive this on the weekend It's such a wonderful drive, too bad I was behind the wheel of a rental Kia 
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Oct 12, 2010 22:44
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I got my mustang back from having the diff replaced under warranty.  I didn't abuse it either! The 7.5" just sucks. It started making a hell of a racket at highway speeds.
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Oct 12, 2010 22:52
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Lum posted:I found that too, but it seems awfully low. You're measuring at idle, though, right? My car reads 10-20psi at idle and jumps to 60-80 as soon as I give it gas. That's what matters.
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Oct 13, 2010 00:53
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New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Put the rotor on backwards and shattered the cap tightening the second of the three screws. FFFFFFFfffff so I did it right the second time, but Duralast isn't quite the Bosch I destroyed. For one thing, the Bosch had my firing order on the shield - not vital but damned convenient and I think that's one way to measure quality. Hacked together a shifter position indicator from a perfect one from the wrong model year. I had no idea it was ever-so-slightly different until after things got ugly, and then I just had to play the hand I dealt myself. Godspeed, soda cap, you're non-conductive! Put the kick panel up over the pedals on the driver's side. It fell down on my wife's feet at 75 mph on I-95 on the way home from buying the car, and I got to watch it happen in my rearview mirror. I can only conclude that the PO slapped it in there with just the Christmas tree pegs, because it's got sleeves on both sides that hold the panel so tightly and well that I'm really concerned about ever removing it to work under the dash. The pegs are an afterthought to keep the top lip flush with the dash. gently caress POs, what a bunch of assholes. With that in mind I guess I should replace my shifter hack next weekend with the real deal. Heh.
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Oct 13, 2010 03:56
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http://www.amazon.com/Peripheral-iPod2Car-Interface-2013-PXDP/dp/B0007TXOXO I ordered this today and couldn't be more excited for it to get here. I have an FM adapter that was given to me but it doesn't play out of the right speakers of my car, some pins are likely busted. FM converters have static problems to begin with anyway. This is going to be the first time I tinker with any components of my car but it looks like an easy install so it should go smoothly. It plays through the car's stock stereo system so sound quality should be nice and smooth! Anyone have any experience with this thing?
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Oct 14, 2010 00:25
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Drove over some oil that was on the driveway. Went into the dark garage to get some simple green, started spraying the tire tread and nearly shat myself when I realized I was holding a bottle of tire dressing.
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Oct 14, 2010 00:37
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What's this? Everything needed to put air conditioning in a 1993 240SX, you say? Why, you are quite astute, sir. Junkyard parts...I let about $200 worth of R12 into the wild blue when I cracked the system open, this could mean that the compressor will actually work! It scared the poo poo out of me, it's pretty rare for a car in the JY to actually maintain a seal. The car looked like it had been driven in, though, no real damage to the body of the car. This is cleaned up, there was a power steering leak for the last 20,000 miles by the way it looked and everything on the left side of the engine was covered in a quarter-inch of sludge. Next up, seeing how lazy the PO of my car actually was...did he remove the wiring too? I'm guessing no. 
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Oct 16, 2010 00:38
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