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irrespective of what sand you use, if you're not painting it then at least give it a drybrush of bleached bone once it's glued down, it'll help, trust me
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# ? Oct 11, 2010 20:14 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 10:52 |
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Pages 3 and 4 of this article have a shitload of basing examples that are pretty drat easy. I'm pretty sure it's linked in the OP somewhere, but it's helpful enough to be worth mentioning again. I like to use a mix of sand to give the base some more texture, but if I had to pick one I'd go with a relatively fine grit.
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# ? Oct 11, 2010 20:33 |
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Also, make sure to check the OP for a list of A SHITLOAD OF BASING LINKS. Now someone answer my stupid spray primer question
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# ? Oct 11, 2010 20:46 |
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Aranan posted:How long does a can of spray primer usually last? I only got ~20 models primed before this can went empty and that seems really low. Depends, what kind are you using? A single can of Krylon Flat Black can usually last me a few squads or more.
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# ? Oct 11, 2010 20:51 |
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Aranan posted:Also, make sure to check the OP for a list of A SHITLOAD OF BASING LINKS. Yeah, I was digging through those already, but I was hoping for some quick tips for sand specifically. And a can of spray should definitely last longer than 20 models. I did all 35 of those dudes with a single can and had plenty left to spare!
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# ? Oct 11, 2010 20:54 |
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Okay, I'm probably just doing something wrong. Again. I was using the P3 black primer just to see if it would do any better than my last primer experiment. I then found out I had just been spraying incorrectly, so the fuzzy primer accidents I've been having were all my fault, not the primer's. I'll head out and get some Krylon flat black after work.
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# ? Oct 11, 2010 20:56 |
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How the hell am I supposed to prime in Seattle? When it rains, it's too humid. It always rains. When it isn't raining (which is never) the ground is releasing all its pent up humidity. Gah!
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 00:34 |
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Personal experience tells me that priming isn't bad most of the time, as long as it's been sunny for 5-6+ hours. Obviously, if it feels damp outside, don't bother, but other than that, I've never had issues. Summer is your best window, though, so even if you're not going to get to the projects in question anytime soon, prime them so that you don't have to resort to gesso. Your other option is setting up a spray booth inside - just a cardboard box, some ducting, and a fan will do, as long as you wear a respirator (which you should do when priming, anyhow). A well-ventilated room that you can leave while the various chemicals are extracted works, too.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 00:41 |
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Pfhreak posted:How the hell am I supposed to prime in Seattle? When it rains, it's too humid. It always rains. When it isn't raining (which is never) the ground is releasing all its pent up humidity. Gah! Primed yesterday during a rainstorm here in Wichita, Kansas. Humidity was off the charts... Models came out perfect. I just don't get it.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 01:05 |
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Pfhreak posted:How the hell am I supposed to prime in Seattle? When it rains, it's too humid. It always rains. When it isn't raining (which is never) the ground is releasing all its pent up humidity. Gah! Prime during the rain. Moisture naturally condenses, so while the rain is falling, it pulls all the moisture into the air into larger rain drops. That's the theory anyways. Whatever the real reason, it's worked for me before. I also have gotten awesome results priming during sunny but cold winter days.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 01:59 |
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 02:59 |
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Samurats? Oh dear. Wait till one of my local Skaven players sees this. Where are those from?
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 03:08 |
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Some rear end in a top hat is going to put those heads on his space marines.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 03:13 |
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Sorry, meant to make that a hyperlink. It's MicroArt Studios.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 04:05 |
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I finished a thing. it looks better than my crappy pictures suggest.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 04:26 |
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Dale-Taco posted:I finished a thing. It looks really great! What glue are you using to glue the metal bits together?
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 04:58 |
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thats a nice looking face!
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 05:17 |
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Dale-Taco posted:it looks better than my crappy pictures suggest. Looks pretty good if you ask me. Awesome blend on the flames and clean edges overall.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 08:16 |
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Galaga Galaxian posted:it's far from the best paint job but this is an awesome looking unit, good work
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 08:51 |
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Well, I'm very much a novice, so I'll take that praise with a thanks. Those guys are the first stuff I've painted in years, and the only things I'd done before this were a handful of 40k minis using enamel paints... (they were hideous).
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 09:10 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Some rear end in a top hat is going to put those heads on his space marines. my first thought was that they were for space marines
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 09:43 |
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Aranan posted:How long does a can of spray primer usually last? I only got ~20 models primed before this can went empty and that seems really low. Some years ago, some kid at the hobby club complained about much the same thing. I think his spray died halfway into his third 10-man unit of space wolves. As an experiment, the next time I bought an undercoat spray I taped a paper to the can and wrote down anything I undercoated. Can't remember the exact number of models, but it was quite a bit more than 200 of mostly skaven and goblins. But I just see the undercoat as something for paint to stick to. Perfect coverage isn't that important. If the metal/plastic shines through in places doesn't matter, paint will take care of that. Exceptions are if the model is to be predominantly white or other light colour, where a more careful undercoat pays off.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 14:26 |
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Trying (again. loving again. ugh.) to drill/pin my trollbloods starter set together. gently caress this. I hate doing this. Painting I love, but putting these things together is just an endless bit of frustration that leaves me with barely any satisfaction. Two hours of work and honestly, all I got was the goddamn heads onto the impaler torsos (and figured out that a part of the molding broke off onto one of the impalers, so I get to make him a new arm joint. joy.). I am so loving close to just walking into the game store and paying someone just to pin them together for me.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 17:15 |
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enri posted:my first thought was that they were for space marines Specifically, Ultratmarines... No?
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 17:42 |
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Tuxedo Jack posted:Specifically, Ultratmarines... I would love an army of Ultratmarines just to laugh at them. Seriously though, them heads would look great on some nicely painted Skaven.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 20:26 |
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Swags posted:Trying (again. loving again. ugh.) to drill/pin my trollbloods starter set together. gently caress this. I hate doing this. Painting I love, but putting these things together is just an endless bit of frustration that leaves me with barely any satisfaction. Two hours of work and honestly, all I got was the goddamn heads onto the impaler torsos (and figured out that a part of the molding broke off onto one of the impalers, so I get to make him a new arm joint. joy.). I am so loving close to just walking into the game store and paying someone just to pin them together for me. I usually only score the surfaces with a scalpel blade and glue the parts together since I also hate pinning stuff. Works great. The only thing I pin are thin arms holding staffs and similar stuff with a lot of leverage.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 20:40 |
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Swags posted:Trying (again. loving again. ugh.) to drill/pin my trollbloods starter set together. gently caress this. I hate doing this. Painting I love, but putting these things together is just an endless bit of frustration that leaves me with barely any satisfaction. Two hours of work and honestly, all I got was the goddamn heads onto the impaler torsos (and figured out that a part of the molding broke off onto one of the impalers, so I get to make him a new arm joint. joy.). I am so loving close to just walking into the game store and paying someone just to pin them together for me. You, my friend, need some J.B. Weld. Two part epoxy that was designed to repair engine blocks to functioning usage can most assuredly take care of your "hate pinning, ruining my life" problem. Also, what Arlahren said is valid: deep scores with a hobby knife or file on both sides of the connection along with good super glue will help a ton. Because I'm a tremendous tool, I actually do at least two methods of joining (scoring, pinning and/or J.B. Weld) depending on what the issue I have is. Since pinning is out for you, score and put glue on the edges of the join with J.B. Weld in the center. Let it rest for 24 hours, and you'll have essentially one whole model ready to go.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 21:06 |
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Just putting this out there, but would anyone be interested in a bunch of 1/4" maple leaves punched out of thin sheet metal (like the brass etching stuff you see) for basing material? I was going to do myself up some, and can probably work up some more. If you're doing some kind of forest-y bases, I mean. 1/4" is on the largish side of scale, though not unreasonably so for actual leaves, but it's the smallest I can do.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 21:44 |
Pfhreak posted:How the hell am I supposed to prime in Seattle? When it rains, it's too humid. It always rains. When it isn't raining (which is never) the ground is releasing all its pent up humidity. Gah! Prime in small batches outside, then bring them inside to dry.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 22:28 |
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I usually leave my minis under the kitchen fan when I have to dry them inside. (which is usually, because i dont really have a yard anymore)
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 23:18 |
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Fix posted:Leaves I might be interested, what with the new Wood Elves army and all. Have any pics? I can offer money, bits, etc.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 23:42 |
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Tadhg posted:I might be interested, what with the new Wood Elves army and all. Have any pics? I can offer money, bits, etc. Not yet, no. It's just something I was thinking about doing. I'll let you know.
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# ? Oct 12, 2010 23:51 |
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Richyp, I love your tutorial. And I'm stoked to have a high elf paint scheme I like.
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# ? Oct 13, 2010 04:26 |
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overthefalls posted:
This is awesome.
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# ? Oct 13, 2010 05:39 |
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I remember seeing an awesome conversion off a deffkopta into a plane on here a while back. Does anyone have the pictures of it ?
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# ? Oct 13, 2010 06:04 |
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Apparently my cousin in california and his buddies make a killing on painting minis for eBay. I really hope he's the guy responsible for blue table painting or w/e it is.
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# ? Oct 13, 2010 06:32 |
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Why? So you have an in that you can use to stab him 98 times?
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# ? Oct 13, 2010 06:36 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Why? So you have an in that you can use to stab him 98 times? More so I can be related to an internet warhams celebrity vv
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# ? Oct 13, 2010 06:43 |
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Devlan Mud posted:More so I can be related to an internet warhams celebrity vv I think the Blue Table Painting guys are celebrities in the same way that Paulie Shore is a celebrity.
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# ? Oct 13, 2010 06:48 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 10:52 |
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overthefalls posted:
They look great! I'll be tackling some of my IoB Sword Masters on Thursday, and I'll definitely be keeping Richyp's tutorial in mind. Ironically, I think they'll be easier to paint than my Sea Guard were, they have less fine details. Or, at least, less fine details that I'm gonna worry about painting. No ornate scale skirt detail, no shields, etc. Less colors too.
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# ? Oct 13, 2010 07:09 |