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I'm going to go ahead and and say it's your paint. Technique sounds fine. Also "adhesion promoter"? What is that exactly? Do you mean primer?
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Oct 13, 2010 23:06
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hentaipanda posted:Well, today I finished my first model! It's a 1:35 Bedford QL British army truck from WW2, used it North Africa. I think I did a fairly good job, given that most of it was trial & error, and I learned a few lessons to use in future models. Lovely! As I'm a noob at weathering, I'd love to hear what you did and how.
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Oct 13, 2010 23:10
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EvilMuppet posted:I'm going to go ahead and and say it's your paint. Technique sounds fine. Also "adhesion promoter"? What is that exactly? Do you mean primer?  http://www.duplicolor.com/products/adhesionPromoter/ What is the recommendation on paints? Is there stuff at Local Place/Hobby Lobby or do I need to look online? toplitzin fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Oct 14, 2010 |
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Oct 14, 2010 04:27
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Nebakenezzer posted:Lovely! As I'm a noob at weathering, I'd love to hear what you did and how. Glad you liked it! I'm new to weathering as well, this is the 2nd model I paint that is weathered. I just went with what looked good, but I did have to repaint the whole thing once. What I did was this: Painted the whole thing with Aqueous Sandy Yellow (H79)  with a 3-4 drops of yellow in it.Then, because I'm an eager beaver and couldn't wait for the paint to set enough for me to do a wash (that same impatience was what made me have to repaint the model in the first place) I decided to do the wash with enamels as the enamel thinner doesn't eat through acrylic paint. So I thinned down some Revell enamel 85  with a drop or two of black in it. I applied the wash everywhere, sides, bars, side containers etc, applying more where more sand would accumulate (like the top of the roof), until I was satisfied.Then, still with enamels, I mixed some orange and red to make a color resembling rust, which I applied with a toothpick wherever it looked okay, around rivets, near joints etc. I used the uncolored side of the toothpick to shape the rust drips. Finally, some black dry brushing wherever there was an open edge, like the upper corners of the bars, upper part of the doors etc. Oh, and the black around the rivets in the bed was done by first attempting to dry brush them black. When that failed (it looked like poo poo) I kind of used the dry brush technique with the enamel thinner, because I didn't want the black to go away entirely but rather just sort of diffuse it. That was it really. One thing I learned from all this is that the hardest bit with weathering is knowing when to stop. But it's so much fun  Edit: the orangey discoloration in the bed is because when I did the thinner dry brush thing in that section I accidentally poured the thinner in the same tray as the rust mixture so I got kind of a rusty wash. Mixed with the black from the rivets I'd say it looks quite good. hentaipanda fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Oct 14, 2010 |
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Oct 14, 2010 07:29
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I just finished another model, this time a German Schwerer Panzerspähwagen, Italeri's 1/35 Sd. Kfz. 232 6rad. This one belonged to the 3rd Panzer division in France around 1940. It was a really fun model to build, and even more fun to paint. This was my first experiment in highlighting and I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. It was also the first model I build where I have actually managed to apply all the decals without problems     
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Oct 21, 2010 10:49
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Awesome job! That came out REALLY nice.  I've finally got photos of some of the stuff I finished up recently, I'll post them up when I get home from work.
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Oct 25, 2010 20:11
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Thanks! I'm quite pleased with it aswell! What have you made?
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Oct 25, 2010 21:26
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hentaipanda posted:Thanks! I'm quite pleased with it aswell! What have you made? 1/35th scale JunkTankRock SEG-888 hornet monocycle   1/20th scale Maschinen Krieger AFS mk1    A whole bunch of "Secrets of the Third Reich" miniatures, including: American powered-armor   German powered-armor   1/35 scale "Mauser Earth" Haupsturmfuhrer von Kardsten figure   1/72 scale Ta-183   And more pictures of my Machinen Krieger 1/20 scale Krote    My sister took like 50 pictures (including some of a few models not pictured) and apparently those were the only pictures that ended up being worth a drat.  I'll see if she can snap some more pictures for me soon.
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Oct 25, 2010 23:10
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How tall is the krote when built? Also, I was going to see if anyone knew of a good place to not pay out the rear end for Ma. K? Is ebay my only bet? I'd love to have an entire shelf full of those things but they are so god drat expensive. E: Looks good BTW. veni veni veni fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Oct 26, 2010 |
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Oct 26, 2010 02:27
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Including the copper antenna? Maybe 6" tall. I got all my Ma.K stuff off eBay. I think I paid about $60 for the Krote, $20 for the AFS mk1, and I've got a Fledermaus (also 1/20) I'm working on that ran me maybe $30 but that's abnormally cheap for a Fledermaus. Those are really the only 3 Ma.K sets I'm interested in building, too.
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Oct 26, 2010 03:22
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I just got a Trumpeter 1:16 WWII Soviet Officer figure, and there are a ton of tiny brass parts in there. What's a good way of gluing them on? Would regular cement be able to handle that, or will I have to use some sort of special one?
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Oct 28, 2010 20:49
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Ensign Expendable posted:I just got a Trumpeter 1:16 WWII Soviet Officer figure, and there are a ton of tiny brass parts in there. What's a good way of gluing them on? Would regular cement be able to handle that, or will I have to use some sort of special one? Super glue. Use a toothpick or a piece of wire to apply it or something. Are you going to buy a 1/16 trumpeter t-34 to go with your officer figure?
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Oct 29, 2010 10:32
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I have an idea to make a paint box, but I'd like some thoughts from others. I was just thinking of a like 3'x3' (or just something around that, something small enough to stick in a closet/garage corner/whatever) wood box with some sort of spinning board or something at the bottom with wires (or whatever) coming out to hold up model bodies. Has anyone done something like this? Or is there anything premade that's not outrageously expensive?
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Oct 29, 2010 12:24
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subx posted:I have an idea to make a paint box, but I'd like some thoughts from others. Most spray booths seem to have some kind of ventilation system too.
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Oct 29, 2010 12:38
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Jumpingmanjim posted:Most spray booths seem to have some kind of ventilation system too. That's easy enough in theory - fan with a motor not in the air path (my dad used to do HVAC stuff and you can get small ones pretty cheap) and some sort of filter to pull it through I guess? You don't want to just suck in air because of dust, I know that much.
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Oct 30, 2010 00:10
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Jumpingmanjim posted:Super glue. Use a toothpick or a piece of wire to apply it or something. I don't have enough display space for an entire 1:16 tank, unfortunately.
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Oct 30, 2010 17:20
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Some nice stuff in this thread. Nice to be building again; I got into R/C cars last year which stopped the airplane building. Doing a build of the Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire IX - it's an amazing model kit. 26 sprues! Getting the engine (80+ parts) together first, and it's been a joy. The whole subassembly can be added at the end of the build. A real contrast to the Monogram 1/48 A-26 Invader I'm building concurrently. Every seam on that thing requires putty, and the nose needs a serious recontouring with epoxy putty. My favorite airplane though so I'm throwing a little aftermarket at it. Eduard interior set, Squadron vac canopies, Quickboost gun barrels, some scratchbuilding in the bomb bay. Zotz decals to make The 6th Chadwick from the Korean War. 
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Nov 1, 2010 04:15
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compressioncut posted:Doing a build of the Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire IX - it's an amazing model kit. 26 sprues! Getting the engine (80+ parts) together first, and it's been a joy. The whole subassembly can be added at the end of the build. Good god - that must be huge! I'd love to hear the steps to assembling a beast like that. How much work went into, say, *just* the engine? I'm picturing you working for hours on getting the faded paper color on the carbs just right.
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Nov 2, 2010 00:32
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That Spitfire looks really nice, but too big (and expensive) for me right now. Everything I get seems to be some re-re-release of a lumpy, warped 60s model that ends up with more putty than plastic by the time I've finished it. So, could someone recommend me the nicest engineered 1/72nd fighter-sized plane kit that they know of, preferably WW2 or before? There's got to be some really nice ones out there but I can't find any sites that rank kits by how well designed + manufactured they are. I just want to see what the state of the art is in model kits without blowing £100.
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Nov 2, 2010 17:25
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Unkempt posted:That Spitfire looks really nice, but too big (and expensive) for me right now. Everything I get seems to be some re-re-release of a lumpy, warped 60s model that ends up with more putty than plastic by the time I've finished it. So, could someone recommend me the nicest engineered 1/72nd fighter-sized plane kit that they know of, preferably WW2 or before? There's got to be some really nice ones out there but I can't find any sites that rank kits by how well designed + manufactured they are. I just want to see what the state of the art is in model kits without blowing £100. Revell Germany P-47D is very, very nice. The Tamiya 72 scale planes (e.g. Spitfire I) are generally scaled down versions of the 48 scale items, so they're excellent. The Hobby Boss series of WWII kits are also good but not as detailed. Very easy to build. The problem with 72 is that there are an assload of re-releases, and companies boxing other company's kits so it can be hard to get the good ones.
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Nov 2, 2010 17:57
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I've been working on the new Hasegawa 1:48 F-22 Raptor and I have to say I am very impressed. It was expensive, but the quality is absolutely top notch as I've come to expect from Hasegawa. The details are crisp, the molding is excellent with little to no flash, and the instructions, while complex, are easy to follow. So far I've got the two side weapons bays and the landing gear bays put in, and that's already taken me a few hours because of the intricate and delicate missile launcher mechanisms in the weapons bays. I don't know how Hasegawa got such an accurate molding of a plane that is still so classified. I went to an air show recently and they had on F-22 on the ground but it was all buttoned up and cordoned off about 50 feet out with armed Marine guards circling it.  Once I get the cockpit done (which is also highly detailed and very nice) I'll post some pics. Anyway, highly recommended if you're looking for a new project or you like the F-22. It also includes Sidewinder and AMRAAM missiles, which is atypical for Hasegawa as they don't usually include stores.
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Nov 3, 2010 16:26
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compressioncut posted:
Exactly the problem I had. I got the Revell He70 and it turned out to be a Matchbox kit from the 70s. The P47 looks nice, but now I've kind of got my eye on this ugly bastard. Anyone tried Trumpeter?
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Nov 3, 2010 20:04
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Unkempt posted:Exactly the problem I had. I got the Revell He70 and it turned out to be a Matchbox kit from the 70s. Yep I've tried Trumpeter, and they're very good quality. Preview of that kit - http://modelingmadness.com/reviews/korean/cleaver/cleaverwyvpreview.htm and it seems very positive.
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Nov 3, 2010 20:23
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Powdered Toast Man posted:I've been working on the new Hasegawa 1:48 F-22 Raptor and I have to say I am very impressed. It was expensive, but the quality is absolutely top notch as I've come to expect from Hasegawa. I want to make that one but the paint job looks demanding. How do you do it? can you make a stencil or something?
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Nov 4, 2010 08:24
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I finished the Trumpeter 1:16 Soviet Officer. I think it turned out pretty well. The stripes on the pants look pink in the photos for some reason, they're a standard red in reality.  The model is noticeably taller than the Tamiya 1:16 German Tank Commander. I've never encountered seen before, all my 1:35 figures are the same size (with the exception of the Zvezda tank crew).  It's not shown on the box art, but the kit comes with a PPSh submachinegun. The strap both for it and the map case has to be made out of paper.  The base and the little plate were also included in the kit. I'm going to put some kind of terrain/grass on there for a mini diorama. There is also an extra head without a cap, but with the same face, a flattened tank crewman's helmet, an alternate collar and a different pistol holster. Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Nov 6, 2010 |
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Nov 6, 2010 22:50
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Jumpingmanjim posted:I want to make that one but the paint job looks demanding. How do you do it? can you make a stencil or something? I'm not sure yet. If you look at a picture of a real Raptor the edges of the darker gray areas are soft, so I may try to just airbrush it freehand. Ultimately, it's pretty subtle. Another option would be masking with silly putty, but any sort of masking you do is going to leave a sharper edge.  edit: I'm going to try to finish the cockpit tonight. Pictures hopefully forthcoming!
Powdered Toast Man fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Nov 16, 2010 |
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Nov 16, 2010 19:32
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Just started a Ferrari 348tb from Hasegawa, my first model in at least 5 years. Having come from nothing but Tamiya kits this poo poo is horrible. Visible mold lines on the roof, bumpers, c-pillars, hood. What the gently caress. Oh well, time for a crash course in body work.
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Nov 17, 2010 00:05
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Xenomrph posted:I found a post on the Dakka forums that said: "The mini, minus base is 40mm's tall. Add a couple of MM's for the base and it's around 43-45mm's." While I can hold a ruler next to my 40K models and get a good idea of the size comparison, seeing it in a picture would be better. Any chance you have an Ork Nob or failing that a Space Marine that you could put next to it and snap a picture or two?
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Nov 17, 2010 02:51
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Mcqueen posted:Just started a Ferrari 348tb from Hasegawa, my first model in at least 5 years. Having come from nothing but Tamiya kits this poo poo is horrible. Visible mold lines on the roof, bumpers, c-pillars, hood. Mold lines aren't too bad to clean up, just some gentle sanding work. It gets a lot more frustrating if there are parts that don't line up properly (that's a huge loving pain to fix).
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Nov 17, 2010 15:41
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Maybe we should start doing model pledges like the Warhammer guys do with their figures.
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Nov 18, 2010 16:08
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Powdered Toast Man posted:Maybe we should start doing model pledges like the Warhammer guys do with their figures. I don't understand. Pledges? "I vow to pay closer attention to weathering this time?"
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Nov 18, 2010 18:23
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Nebakenezzer posted:I don't understand. Pledges? "I vow to pay closer attention to weathering this time?" Nah the WH thread, they do certain units for their armies by the end of the month, and get bonus points for working in a theme that goes beyond just straight modelling it out of the box, like battle damage, or forces of nature.
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Nov 18, 2010 18:35
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Iron Crowned posted:Nah the WH thread, they do certain units for their armies by the end of the month, and get bonus points for working in a theme that goes beyond just straight modelling it out of the box, like battle damage, or forces of nature. And give out new avatars to those that fail, presumably 
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Nov 18, 2010 21:19
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Nebakenezzer posted:And give out new avatars to those that fail, presumably You presume correctly, sir! Anyone have any tips for painting seamless, nice-looking jet intakes?
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Nov 19, 2010 17:15
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Quick beginner question. I'm attempting to spraypaint some small cylindrical parts for a Megaman model I just started. Is there any good way to do it without having a ring of gloopy paint at the bottoms? Same question for spraying smaller pieces - which sometimes take a tumble from the spray pressure. There has to be a better way. Should I give up on the spray cans and instead use paint and a brush?What am I doing wrong?
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Nov 21, 2010 03:34
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If they're hollow, you can thread some string through the center, hang them up, spray them and have them dry like that.
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Nov 21, 2010 04:39
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Ensign Expendable posted:If they're hollow, you can thread some string through the center, hang them up, spray them and have them dry like that. If they're not hollow, get a sewing needle and VERY gently pierce them in a place that will be covered when the model is assembled. Go just deep enough that the piece doesn't rotate freely or blow off the needle.
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Nov 21, 2010 05:53
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Ensign Expendable posted:If they're hollow, you can thread some string through the center, hang them up, spray them and have them dry like that. Midjack posted:If they're not hollow, get a sewing needle and VERY gently pierce them in a place that will be covered when the model is assembled. Go just deep enough that the piece doesn't rotate freely or blow off the needle. Thanks for these tips! This is a big help.
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Nov 22, 2010 07:15
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I've just started work on this awesome model of the Titanic: http://www.minicraftmodels.com/Titanic.htm I'm having trouble with the decking. Anyone know of some good techniques or tutorials for simulating wood grain?
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Nov 22, 2010 17:50
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SunknLiner posted:I've just started work on this awesome model of the Titanic: http://www.minicraftmodels.com/Titanic.htm Don't know how well it might work on that scale, but something along the lines of this might be useful.
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Nov 22, 2010 17:56
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