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Uthor posted:Maybe I missed it, but what is this nut for? My power steering pump. I'm not good with official names of parts, so bare with me. The power steering pump has a hose and a metal hose that both connect to the power steering pump. On the metal hose part, there's a metal circular part that goes around this threaded piece on the pump. I have to tighten it with a nut. The nut I took off is rusted to the old threaded piece from the old pump, so I had to saw it off. I can't find a nut that will fit in the same 17mm socket with an inner diameter that will fit around the threaded piece. I tried M10 x 1.50 and it was too small. I just tried M12 x 1.75 and could only get the nut on at the very top, but it wouldn't screw into more than the first thread.
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Oct 17, 2010 20:19
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Is it coarse thread or fine thread? Make sure the nut is the same thread type
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Oct 17, 2010 20:33
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DELETED posted:Is it coarse thread or fine thread? Make sure the nut is the same thread type How am I supposed to figure this out? What's the difference between the two? \/\/\/\/ No poo poo, but I don't know what constitutes a coarse or fine thread. I could say it looks pretty fine to me but it might be coarse or vice versa. 
Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Oct 17, 2010 |
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Oct 17, 2010 20:41
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Compare them visually, for a start.
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Oct 17, 2010 20:45
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Sounds like an M12 bolt if the diameters look about right and it's the thread pitch that's screwing you up. You didn't happen to keep the old nut? I would just go to the store and buy an assortment of M12 nuts. Shouldn't cost more than a couple of bucks and will save you multiple trips. McMaster doesn't list an M12x2 (they have x1.25, x1.50, and x1.75). See if you can get the two finer threads. FYI, the threaded piece is a stud. The "metal hose" looks like a bent rod. Hoses are flexible. Tubes are formed metal. Rods are also formed metal, but solid.
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Oct 17, 2010 21:51
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Uthor posted:Sounds like an M12 bolt if the diameters look about right and it's the thread pitch that's screwing you up. You didn't happen to keep the old nut? The old nut was rusted onto the old stud. Correct me if I'm wrong but M10 = 17mm and M12 = 18mm, right? Because the original nut was taken off with a 17mm socket. The first M10 I bought that didn't work was the same size and fit into the 17mm socket. The M12 I bought that didn't work either was too large to fit into my 17mm socket. This is what I'm getting confused about. The only M10 I could find at the store was M10 x 1.50 which was really small. The M12 x 1.75 I bought fit around the first thread, so I'm thinking I might just need to buy a "fine threaded M10 x 1.75", however I can't find any online or at the store. I mean, if I can find a M12 x 1.75 with a "fine thread" I'll just buy a 18mm socket, its not a big deal. Just, the only M12 x 1.75 I did find didn't fit (so maybe it was a "coarse thread"? I'm seriously starting to get pissed off. I can't find anything closely related to "M10 x 1.75 fine thread" or even "M12 x 1.75 fine thread" online. I'm so confused and angry. Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Oct 17, 2010 |
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Oct 17, 2010 22:12
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The size of the head is weird. M10 does have a standard distance across the hex of 17 mm and an M12 would be 19 mm. Maybe the manufacturer used an off sized nut? I think you are a bit confused by the thread designations. The "M" number (M10, M12, etc) is the diameter of the bolt. The number after the "x" is the distance between threads. The smaller the number, the finer the thread. Coarse threads are M10x1.5 and M12x1.75 (so finding M10x1.75 will be very difficult, if not impossible). Fine threads are anything smaller than that. If the M12 bolt barely fits on one thread, it indicates to me that the diameter is right, but the thread pitch is wrong. A differently threaded M10 bolt will be continue to be "really small". You can take a ruler to the stud and measure its diameter to get into the correct ballpark. FYI, standard threads are called out differently. For example, you'll find 3/8-16. The 3/8 indicates the diameter like with metric bolts, but the "-16" is the number of threads per inch. In this case the bigger the number, the finer the thread. EDIT: Super Aggro Crag posted:I'm seriously starting to get pissed off. I can't find anything closely related to "M10 x 1.75 fine thread" or even "M12 x 1.75 fine thread" online. I'm so confused and angry. You won't find anything that way because M10x1.5 and M12x1.75 are coarse threads. Look for either "M10 fine thread" and "M12 fine thread" or "M10x0.75", "x1.00", "x1.25", "M12x1.00", "x1.25", and "x1.50". Those are the standard metric thread sizes. See these charts: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-threads-d_777.html Uthor fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Oct 17, 2010 |
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Oct 17, 2010 22:34
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Oh! See, I was under the impression that the second number for M10 x X.XX was the inner diameter of the nut or something. Sorry, I'm retarded.
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Oct 17, 2010 22:46
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Okay, I just bought a 2000 Chevrolet Alero. Yes a Chevrolet, since the Olds Alero was sold by that name here in Europe. No, it has nothing to do with my user name. I bought it because it's a big car with lots of kit for next to no money. In fact it the depreciation is so bad, it probably ought to win a prize for it. It's been serviced regularly and there really shouldn't be anything wrong with it and I've been through it with a fine tooth comb and it seems okay.... except that when I turn the steering wheel when the car is cold, in the middle it seems... loose, or weird or something. Is my power steering going out and is it going to cost me tons of money? Please AI, you're my only hope! Oh and some gear shifts with the automatic are slightly jerkier than others, is that normal? Is there something else I should be looking out for?
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Oct 17, 2010 23:20
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The wheel bearings on the N-Body, which the Alero is part of, are notoriously lovely. How does it feel "weird"?
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Oct 17, 2010 23:38
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Skyssx posted:The wheel bearings on the N-Body, which the Alero is part of, are notoriously lovely. How does it feel "weird"? When turning the steering wheel, the center part feels different to the rest of the turning range, it kinda sticks in the middle or something. Really hard to describe, but probably not wheel bearings as I had those go out on my previous car and it was nothing like it. E: and only when it's cold. Oldsmobile fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Oct 18, 2010 |
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Oct 17, 2010 23:53
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Pretty sure this is a stupid question, but I want to know the answer dammit! I have a Subaru EA81 motor sitting in my shed awaiting a transplant. It literally stinks. It has that awful old oil smell. I kind of cleaned off the motor using my kero gun with degreaser (yes the gun is rusting internally, but kerosene would be a disaster in my yard!). It still stinks. What can I do to get rid of it? Where is it coming from? It currently doesn't have any oil in it and won't until it is installed, because to transport it I have to tip it up. Could the smell be coming from residual old oil internally?
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Oct 18, 2010 00:18
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How do I remove rusted-as-gently caress seized heat shield bolts without destroying the heat shield? I spent most of this weekend attempting to pull the motor on my SVX to do the head gasket, and all that remains are the mount bolts, the bellhousing bolts, and the exhaust. However, I'm stuck trying to get off the heat shield bolts, which are completely rusted solid. I think (I hope) I can pull the stud nuts with the impact gun, but how do I get these heat shield bastards out? Don't much care about ruining the bolts, but I would like to keep the heat shields if possible. The heads are stripped due to all the rust on the bolts. I've tried putting vise grips on them, but they just slip off. Any ideas?
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Oct 18, 2010 01:07
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You can try heating the piss out of them with a torch, if possible. After that, hit em with some penetrating oil
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Oct 18, 2010 01:13
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Black88GTA posted:Words I've heard of diesel mechanics using AeroKroil or something similarly industrial just spraying it on the bolts and letting it literally eat the bolts apart since it does so well eating rust...could be a myth but worth a try
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Oct 18, 2010 01:13
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DELETED posted:You can try heating the piss out of them with a torch, if possible. After that, hit em with some penetrating oil I wasn't able to find my little torch when I was working on it, although I did find it after I quit for the day. Probably try that next. Deezul posted:I've heard of diesel mechanics using AeroKroil or something similarly industrial just spraying it on the bolts and letting it literally eat the bolts apart since it does so well eating rust...could be a myth but worth a try I just looked that stuff up online, as I don't think I've ever seen it in stores. Seems like it gets overall very good reviews, although it seems to be hard to find in stores. Also, the website is offering a buy 1, get 1 can of the same thing or any of the other products free deal, so I placed an order. Got a can of AeroKroil and SiliKroil which is apparently the same thing with silicone added. Hopefully the motor will be out next weekend. Thanks for the help guys.
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Oct 18, 2010 01:51
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Sweevo posted:The choke light on the 205 is connected to a switch on the end of the lever just behind the dash. Either the switch is stuck on, or someone has replaced the cable and plugged the wire straight into the earth block next to it instead of going through the switch. Thanks! I've got a warranty so I'll probably stop by the dealership on my way through next time and have them fix it. I just looked at the paperwork and apparently it was listed as a fault on the contrôle technique (state mandated mechanical inspection) but after they fixed the other things the choke light mysteriously fell off the list of faults too. 
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Oct 18, 2010 07:53
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I'm buying a new set of rims (RIMZZZ?) and tires from TireRack.com for my classy wifes granny car - which is a 03 Mercury Sable LS. What among the brands is a solid buy, solid as in sturdy not blingy. I like the Elbrus I05 at $109, is this a ricer/tuner brand?
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Oct 18, 2010 19:54
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A couple of days ago my car started vibrating at idle. Classic worn engine mount symptoms, right? Today I finally opened the hood. And uh.. the little bit that's left of the passenger side mount is just shredded. There's almost no rubber left, though the metal is fine. The engine is also sitting noticeably lower on that side now - probably about 2 inches lower. The inside of the mount is pretty much destroyed. How bad is it going to gently caress things up if I drive it like this until I can afford a new motor mount? (under 100 miles) Looks pretty easy to swap, so at least that's going for me... 1999 Nissan Altima, KA24DE, manual trans.
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Oct 18, 2010 20:15
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strangehamster posted:I'm buying a new set of rims (RIMZZZ?) and tires from TireRack.com for my classy wifes granny car - which is a 03 Mercury Sable LS. What among the brands is a solid buy, solid as in sturdy not blingy. I like the Elbrus I05 at $109, is this a ricer/tuner brand? Just get what you like.
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Oct 18, 2010 20:36
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some texas redneck posted:A couple of days ago my car started vibrating at idle. Classic worn engine mount symptoms, right? The biggest concern is you're probably turning the half-shafts past whatever tolerance they have (IIRC you're generally not supposed to let them go past 30 degrees off center.) You could also do damage to the other mounts. I would probably park the car and not drive it unless its a complete emergency.
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Oct 18, 2010 20:37
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That's pretty much what I didn't want to hear.  Figures that it's also the most expensive mount... $55ish at AutoZone. I knew the mount was worn, it looked a little rough when I got the car, but I didn't expect it to just completely fail like this.
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Oct 18, 2010 20:44
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Mistayke posted:I bought a brand new 2011 Nissan Versa a few weeks ago, it has less than 1000 miles on it now. After I left the dealer it seemed to pull to the left slightly here and there. I brought it back and they said the alignment was a little off and they fixed it. UPDATE! Tomorrow I am dropping it off at the dealer. They are installing a brand new rear end. They said if this does not fix the problem, they will give me a new car. I wonder if I can push for an upgraded trim for the aggravation. Five trips to the dealer for the same issue, and probably 10 hours sitting in the waiting room total.
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Oct 19, 2010 00:36
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AI opinion time regarding oil-change intervals: I have a vehicle that is fairly new but I don't drive it often (errrm, still enjoy the new car feeling after 19 months and I figure if I wrecked something, it would be the paid-off car. Mileage isn't a factor). It gets driven on the weekends, but most of my miles are a DD beater. The last oil change was done at the end of may with ~2k miles on the clock using full synthetic. Given that I'm a big pussy for not wanting to change it in December-ish, and that my current driving habits put the 5k mark somewhere during the spring thaw, is there any point in doing a 8 quart synthetic change "just to keep me within the 6 month maintenance schedule" ? Its not been analyzed, but poo poo, it looks new on the dipstick, and its Mobil 5w-20 synth/Purolator filter (Not Fram)..... Suck it up and change it when its due, or ride it out another 5 months?
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Oct 19, 2010 00:43
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I bought a B18 engine for my '90 Integra. The motor I got was from an automatic, my car is a manual. Am I correct to assume that it doesn't really matter?
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Oct 19, 2010 01:39
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aksuur posted:I bought a B18 engine for my '90 Integra. The motor I got was from an automatic, my car is a manual. Am I correct to assume that it doesn't really matter? Doesn't matter. A B18A1 is a B18A1. If you snagged a 92+ engine, you've picked up an extra 10 horsepower over the 90-91 engine as well. If you wound up with a B18B1 you've picked up 12 extra hp. The forums over at g2ic.com used to be pretty decent for 90-93 Integra stuff, though I haven't been a member since I sold my 91 Integra.
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Oct 19, 2010 10:43
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Mistayke posted:UPDATE! I'm glad to hear this. I just discovered the rear ABS/wheel speed sensors can be adversely affected by rear end shimming, as they change the specific gap. Ask for printouts of the rear end alignment specs when the new rear axle beam is in. I know a good % of ours were also out after replacement.
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Oct 19, 2010 12:02
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At this point, I'm no longer worried. The GM of the dealership called me personally yesterday and told me to bring it in today for this. He is giving me a brand new 2011 Altima to use until my car is ready. He said they will do whatever it takes to make my situation right, up to giving me a new car. He said Nissan had told them to install the rear end first, then offer new car if that failed. So, either way, I win. I'm not upset any more. I just want my car to work as it should.
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Oct 19, 2010 13:36
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Mistayke posted:At this point, I'm no longer worried. The GM of the dealership called me personally yesterday and told me to bring it in today for this. He is giving me a brand new 2011 Altima to use until my car is ready. That's some loving customer service right there. Congrats. All dealers could learn from this. I'm actually more likely to consider a Nissan now next time around.
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Oct 19, 2010 13:42
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This dealership is great. Pretty much any Nissan in a 10 mile radius has their name plate on them. They've been here for 35 years, and is basically THE Nissan dealership to go to here. While my wife and I were in the showroom looking, they sold 4 cars in the span of a couple of hours. I know this because every time they make a sale, someone blows a car horn they have rigged at the main desk, and ALL the salespeople stop what they are doing and start cheering and congratulating the customer, then they sing(yell) a song about Nissan. They did this 4 times while we were there. I was told they move around 300 cars a month on the new side, and 200 on the used side. Also, ALL costs were laid out and explained, and there weren't any dealer prep fees and poo poo.
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Oct 19, 2010 14:13
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Mistayke posted:This dealership is great. Pretty much any Nissan in a 10 mile radius has their name plate on them. They've been here for 35 years, and is basically THE Nissan dealership to go to here. Name 'em; I'm sure anyone in your area wouldn't mind going to see them.
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Oct 19, 2010 15:44
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How much will I ruin poo poo when replacing my slave cylinder and not use a torque wrench for a 30NM and a 48NM bolt? I was getting one but I'm pretty hosed atm since I need the car to get it. drat.
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Oct 19, 2010 15:49
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Anyone good with auto-electronics? Just today my interior light has started coming on after I close all the doors and let it go off. 10 minutes later it will be back on. Checked all the doors and they're all shut tight. My car is a 1994 Nissan Pulsar SSS. If anyone has any ideas at all send them my way before my battery goes flat.
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Oct 19, 2010 16:34
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^ Sounds like the sensor that detects when the door is closed is on its way out and is sensing the door as being open. I'd start there.
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Oct 19, 2010 17:08
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Geoj posted:^ A good way to check this is to open each door individually and play with the button on the door jamb that turns on/off the lights when the door's open and closed. Knowing the general location of the problem will save you a ton of time diagnosing something like this, especially since the wiring that controls the dome light is probably a half-mile long throughout the car and wired into half the electrical systems. Also, until you get around to working on it, either take the bulb out of the dome light or turn it to 'always off'. That'll keep your battery from dying in the meantime.
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Oct 19, 2010 17:14
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I own a 1994 Geo Prizm. (rebadged Corolla) Automatic, 114k miles, very basic. On Saturday I was driving it through 40+ minutes of heavy, heavy traffic on an interstate and I noticed it started to lurch occasionally. When I got clear of the traffic and tried to get back up to highway-speed, I noticed a very, terrifyingly loud vibrating sound from the front of the car. I had it towed to a garage, where they told me my transmission is shot and needed to be replaced/rebuilt.  I am poor and only very part-time employed; in short I really can't afford this. I paid $1200 for the vehicle, and want to know what my best option would be. Is it worth it to repair? I've heard of these cars (whose transmissions aren't hosed) living long enough to see 250k miles, and I'm only halfway there. Should I just fold and sell it for scrap and look for a new car? Since I have a LOT of free time on my hands, is this something that someone with basically no mechanical experience (read: me) could take a look at? Thank you! e: Oh yeah, the car is currently parked at a friend's house 67 miles from where I live. webcams for christ fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Oct 19, 2010 |
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Oct 19, 2010 17:52
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webcams for christ posted:I own a 1994 Geo Prizm. (rebadged Corolla) If it is the transmission and nothing else, a lot of the charge in putting in a new transmission is labor and the fact that they're usually putting in a new tranny. If you go to a junkyard, where I'm sure there are a ton of Geo Prisms, you can get a new transmission for maybe $300-500 and do the work yourself. The job isn't terribly difficult, per se, it's just time consuming and you might need a handful of tools/equipment that you wouldn't normally use on regular car maintenance (I've only ever done a tran replacement while also putting in a new engine, so we used an engine hoist for the whole assembly).
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Oct 19, 2010 18:06
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zamin posted:A good way to check this is to open each door individually and play with the button on the door jamb that turns on/off the lights when the door's open and closed. Knowing the general location of the problem will save you a ton of time diagnosing something like this, especially since the wiring that controls the dome light is probably a half-mile long throughout the car and wired into half the electrical systems. Yeah got it in the always off position. Some of the sensors are already going but in a "permanently stuck in" way rather than a "mysteriously making the light come on" way.
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Oct 19, 2010 18:18
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zamin posted:...especially since the wiring that controls the dome light is probably a half-mile long throughout the car and wired into half the electrical systems. On this note, consider yourself lucky you have a car from before they started mass-implementation of passive anti-theft systems and/or central locking. My previous company car (2007 Chevy Malibu) had a bad sensor in the driver's door that would randomly detect the door being open when it was closed and locked (while parked.) At all hours of the night the car's "oh poo poo someone just opened the door while its locked" alarm would go off, sounding the horn and flashing the headlights until I could find the keys and spam the lock button. The fleet management company couldn't understand why it needed to be fixed because it didn't impair the car's ability to drive, so I ended up pulling the fuse that ran the horn.
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Oct 19, 2010 18:53
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Geoj posted:so I ended up pulling the fuse that ran the horn. Yeah I don't want to go to that length mainly because my car could then be defected for not having a working horn. I'm already pushing it with my after-market exhaust, which is almost too loud to be legal. I'll have a go at the sensors. Thanks for the heads up about the alarm going off. My insurance requires I get an alarm fitted to be covered for theft so it's good to know about these things before hand so I can sort them out. Cheers
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Oct 19, 2010 19:16
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