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Was a bit 'hmm' about the brakes on my car, not had it long and the front right squeals like a pig and the braking seemed not as good as it should have been. Checked the pads and they were nasty nasty pattern part things with no copper slip on any of the pads, plenty of wear left but just crap, and the discs were knackered,. Payday came, ordered: - Brembo HC front discs - Ferodo 2250 pads - Stainless braided hoses - DOT 5.1 fluid. Holy crap, I kept forgetting and applying the pressure I was used to on the motorway on my way home and nearly had my face pulled off on multiple occasions. Incredible difference. Also tried out the new jack stands I bought. Usually just rely on a jack (yeah I know). Never gonna do any work without them now. Hover car: 
blambert fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Nov 5, 2010 |
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Nov 5, 2010 20:34
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Took it hunting. Tagged a 10 point buck, but unfortunately I only broke its back legs and it dragged itself into a field. You didn't find any blood, drag marks?
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Nov 6, 2010 01:39
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Getindachoppa! posted:I've only seen one other on the road, I think the sedan only ran for the 2009 MY didn't it? Mine is a 2007 Black Sedan SS but its naturally aspirated, after 2007 they labeled it the "sport sedan" so it had no SS badge but it still had a NA 2.4L Ecotec like mine. I think it was 2008 or 2009 they brought the Sedan SS back but as a 2.0L Turbo. I think thats what happened.
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Nov 6, 2010 02:35
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Mr.Peabody posted:You didn't find any blood, drag marks? It was raining, and I was too busy screaming at it as it dragged its mangled body off the road with just its front legs.
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Nov 6, 2010 04:31
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Changed the valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires and oil.
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Nov 6, 2010 04:39
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Changed the transmission fluid in the MX-5. Dunno why Mazda puts GL-4 in it from the factory then recommends GL-5 as replacement. The GL-5 is sooooooo much smoother.
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Nov 6, 2010 20:06
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Goober Peas posted:Changed the transmission fluid in the MX-5. Dunno why Mazda puts GL-4 in it from the factory then recommends GL-5 as replacement. The GL-5 is sooooooo much smoother. Probably break-in procedure stuff.
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Nov 6, 2010 21:08
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New drag link on the beast this morning. Man did it make a difference. The front ball joint on it was wasted and the steering wheel had 6 inches or more of play. The truck is so much better to drive now. I'm getting pretty worried about the rear main seal. I don't think it was this bad last year. The transmission is going to need some work soon so I'll replace it at that time. Here is the puddle from where it sat for about an hour while I replaced the link, trans puddle right behind the oil puddle and Coors bottle for size reference: 
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Nov 7, 2010 18:44
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New tires: Continental Extreme Contact DWS. Went to get an alignment and they said my control arm bushings were toast. It's cheaper to buy the entire pre assembled control arm so I bought two without really thinking about it. During the install we found that the bushings were fine but the ball joints were totally hosed so it wasn't a total wash.
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Nov 7, 2010 19:23
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Talked to the body shop this morning about the Fit. It's going to need a new bumper, new grill, 2 new headlights, new radiator, new A/C condenser, new radiator support, new driver's side fender, new windshield cowling/frame, and the passenger side fender needs some small dents/scratches repaired. They're reviewing the estimate and sending it to insurance so maybe within the next day or two I'll know what's up. I have a feeling the insurance company won't total it. That being said, I think I might still get a used car to go back and forth to work, and maybe sell the Fit after repairs.
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Nov 9, 2010 15:26
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Talked to the body shop this morning about the Fit. It's going to need a new bumper, new grill, 2 new headlights, new radiator, new A/C condenser, new radiator support, new driver's side fender, new windshield cowling/frame, and the passenger side fender needs some small dents/scratches repaired. They're reviewing the estimate and sending it to insurance so maybe within the next day or two I'll know what's up. I have a feeling the insurance company won't total it. That being said, I think I might still get a used car to go back and forth to work, and maybe sell the Fit after repairs. It might be a shorter list to tell us what doesn't need replacing.  Sorry about your loss.
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Nov 9, 2010 15:43
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Picked it up from the shop. I'm looking forward to this weekend at Barber. 
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Nov 9, 2010 22:07
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three posted:It might be a shorter list to tell us what doesn't need replacing. Well, it's not totaled...almost $5300 in repairs and it's gonna be out of commission for 3 weeks. At least this place is supposed to be the best around, and I only have to pay my $100 deductible.
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Nov 10, 2010 03:47
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Gave mine a speeding ticket 
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Nov 10, 2010 14:07
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Moved it out of the handicapped parking zone the city decided to erect directly in front of my house at 8am. Now I need to file a complaint to get it moved, seeing as neither me nor my roommate are disabled, and if it's for commercial purposes, there's an empty lot they can put it next to much closer to the main drag... instead of blocking my front door.
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Nov 10, 2010 22:53
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:I'm getting pretty worried about the rear main seal. I don't think it was this bad last year. The transmission is going to need some work soon so I'll replace it at that time. Here is the puddle from where it sat for about an hour while I replaced the link, trans puddle right behind the oil puddle and Coors bottle for size reference: Hah, drat, that looks about like what my F-150 used to do, except I was running straight 60 oil in it. If I put 10w30 or 20w50 in it the oil light stayed on and it would run dry pretty quick. I gave up trying to keep the truck clean, the tailgate and back bumper were always coated and dripping in oil.
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Nov 10, 2010 23:04
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some texas redneck posted:Hah, drat, that looks about like what my F-150 used to do, except I was running straight 60 oil in it. If I put 10w30 or 20w50 in it the oil light stayed on and it would run dry pretty quick. Since I posted that it has actually gotten a lot better, I think from using it. It was sitting all last winter and only used once or twice this summer when I needed it around my property. I still have to change the oil, it has god knows what from god knows when in it now and the filter hasn't been changed in so long it has surface rust. I know for sure it isn't as bad as your Ford because the back stays clean, well, then again top speed for it is like 45mph so maybe the oil just isn't getting blown all the way to the back. I've got more parts sitting in it right now that I hope to get to installed this weekend. I'm curious as to how that seal will be with new oil and a known weight. Right now it has a lot of straight 30 in it from whatever was left in the bottle after changing oil in my lawn mowers. I've also got to get a new PCV valve for it, that can also cause oil leaks, I know it is common on Fords for that to happen.
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Nov 10, 2010 23:25
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Once I found out what a bitch it was to do the rear main seal, plus the whole no oil pressure at all with regular oil bit, I gave up on oil+filter changes and fixing leaks. Plus the little bit that didn't leak went out of the exhaust when it was cold. It was easier to dump in a quart of oil every morning... Drove it from El Paso TX to Dallas TX in 1997 (1980 year model, 351M/2bbl), only used 8 quarts of straight 60 oil on the trip. Stepdad got ripped off pretty bad on it, paint and interior looked brand new (tweaked frame), transmission fluid had never been changed and resembled tar, gushed oil everywhere, and the exhaust fell off going down the highway one day shortly after he handed it down to me.
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Nov 11, 2010 00:31
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Replaced the battery in anticipation of parking it in snowy wintery climates this ski season. The old one was doing okay, but I'm a preventative maintenance kind of guy. Also bought some rear pads, but some fucktard forgot to give me back my lugnut key when I had the front brakes done a while back (and another fucktard forgot to check for it), so now I can't get my wheels off. Superrrr.
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Nov 11, 2010 00:42
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I got a set of Continental ExtremeWinterContact tires mounted on a secondary set of 16" Impreza alloys for use on both my '02 and '11 WRX this winter. First winter in 15 years of driving with winter tires, I'm excited. It will surely not snow now.
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Nov 11, 2010 01:56
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Figured out that when I Blew a cv boot on my grand prix that it threw axle grease up and into an opening on the coolant overflow tank which of course let it in to the cooling system. The inside of the radiator cap was all gummed up with it. Hello coolant flush!
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Nov 11, 2010 05:24
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Did an oil change on the Jeep last night in the dark with only a small flashlight (somebody made off with my other light) and somehow managed to put too much oil in. Hello high oil pressure this morning! Didn't have time to drain any so I had to drive the wobbly Escort to work.
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Nov 11, 2010 16:52
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Rubiks Pubes posted:Figured out that when I Blew a cv boot on my grand prix that it threw axle grease up and into an opening on the coolant overflow tank which of course let it in to the cooling system. The inside of the radiator cap was all gummed up with it. Hello coolant flush! This is either a one-in-a-million occurrence, or coincidental with something else in your coolant. There isn't _that_ much grease in a CV joint, and to make it up into the coolant tank through an "opening" in sufficient quantity to gum up the inside of the radiator cap??? I suggest you look deeper into the issues.
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Nov 11, 2010 16:57
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:This is either a one-in-a-million occurrence, or coincidental with something else in your coolant. There isn't _that_ much grease in a CV joint, and to make it up into the coolant tank through an "opening" in sufficient quantity to gum up the inside of the radiator cap??? I wanted to just say "hey guy it's probably your headgasket not the boot" but I figured I was too tired to be right last night. The odds against it being the boot grease inside the radiator are just  .
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Nov 11, 2010 18:27
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The boot grEase was all over the inside of the coolant bottle around the opening, and all up the side of the bottle leading up to the opening. Just changed the oil and it didn't look like chocolate milk like I was told it would if it wa the head gasket. Who knows though.
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Nov 12, 2010 06:06
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Rubiks Pubes posted:The boot grEase was all over the inside of the coolant bottle around the opening, and all up the side of the bottle leading up to the opening. Just changed the oil and it didn't look like chocolate milk like I was told it would if it wa the head gasket. Who knows though. Again, it would be a newsworthy story to have boot grease contaminate your coolant, especially when you have a car prone to head gasket failure. Could it be that your coolant level is rising that much when the car gets hot, then going back down as it cools, leaving a trail on the side of the expansion tank? Got pictures?
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Nov 12, 2010 12:16
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Got the radiator in today! It was a pain in the rear end aligning all the fan bolts, but I finally got them all bolted down. I think I found out why I was grinding between 1st and 2nd gear. I dropped the transmission fluid bolt and... well NOTHING came out. So either its empty or all gunked up. Gotta run to AutoZone for some SyncroMesh and coolant, will report back.
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Nov 13, 2010 20:11
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I dropped the transmission fluid bolt and... well NOTHING came out. This is not good. At all. DSM, right?
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Nov 13, 2010 22:36
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Sterndotstern posted:Also bought some rear pads, but some fucktard forgot to give me back my lugnut key when I had the front brakes done a while back (and another fucktard forgot to check for it), so now I can't get my wheels off. Superrrr. Got the key for $6 at a tire store 10 miles away, then went home and replaced the rear brakes while swapping to my winter (stock) wheels. Got quite a workout hauling tires up and down from the basement and taking off lugs put on by Tire Store Impact Wrench Fucker.
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Nov 13, 2010 22:41
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Maker Of Shoes posted:This is not good. At all. DSM, right? Yeah, 1G Eclipse GST. I couldn't get the bolt off to pour fluid into it and it was getting dark so I'm going to continue tomorrow. I was going to just pour a quart of SyncroMesh in it, change gears a few times and empty it and see what happens. Unless there's a better way.
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Nov 13, 2010 22:52
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Was the bolt on the bottom of the trans, or on the side? Don't know much about DSMs but some cars are set up like that, you fill it directly in the side and it's 'full' when it is full to that point.
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Nov 13, 2010 23:51
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oil change and topped off coolant, also found out that • LR + RR brakes dragging, inner pads worn - need new calipers • LF tie rods shot • possible leak from power steering gear/lines • drivers side hood strut leaking fierce
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Nov 13, 2010 23:55
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Piano posted:Was the bolt on the bottom of the trans, or on the side? Don't know much about DSMs but some cars are set up like that, you fill it directly in the side and it's 'full' when it is full to that point. It was on the side, but I watched a YouTube video on a dude changing the transmission fluid on his 2G Eclipse and there were two separate bolts.
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Nov 13, 2010 23:56
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Lazy wrenching day on the 1980 diesel Benzo, drained the 2 year old coolant from the block and radiator. I was able to pull the block plug with a universal joint & a few feet of extensions from the engine bay. This is the only time I'm happy with the car being non-turbo; the turbo models require the passenger's side wheel removed and turned to the right to gain access to the block plug.
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Nov 14, 2010 01:31
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Got to  69000: And swapped on my snow wheels, which are the stock ones:  I dunno how I feel about the red S symbols on the centercaps, but they're consistent with everything else.
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Nov 14, 2010 04:30
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Right rear wheel was locked as I pulled out of my parking spot this afternoon. My neighbour came out and helped me take off the caliper and un-stick the piston, then we put it back together and it seems OK. New rear brake pads and a brake fluid flush are overdue at this point anyways, I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow. EDIT: Once I got rolling, I went to the mall and bought the Smokey and the Bandit "Pursuit Pack" (3 movies). Number 1 is great, number 2 sucks. Renolds, WTF? ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Nov 14, 2010 |
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Nov 14, 2010 06:22
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Yeah, 1G Eclipse GST. I couldn't get the bolt off to pour fluid into it and it was getting dark so I'm going to continue tomorrow. I was going to just pour a quart of SyncroMesh in it, change gears a few times and empty it and see what happens. Unless there's a better way. Protip: Make sure you can get the fill cap/cover/bolt off before you drain a fluid.  Winter tires put on today, also applied Rain-X Antifog to the windows. Makes a big difference.
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Nov 14, 2010 06:23
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rotarybob posted:Protip: Make sure you can get the fill cap/cover/bolt off before you drain a fluid. Yeah, haha. Luckily I'm not driving it at the moment!
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Nov 14, 2010 07:27
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Thanks for the advice on the ball joint splitter, worked like a charm on my e30! Just finished up my mom's Trailblazer passenger front bearing. That was stupid easy. The shop kept qouting her 650 to do it. I told her a case of "good" bear (blvd wheat - yumm!) and the cost of the bearing it would do it. Super easy, the hardest part was dealing with the ABS sensor, and trying to get that wire routed around to the holes that are used for the existing harness.
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Nov 14, 2010 08:24
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Replaced the front brake pads & discs and then bled the brake system on my dads 2005 Acura RL Front OEM pads are nearly $200 just for the axle set through the dealer so I went with a $35 set of Wagner Thermoquiets. I was a little worried that there would be a noticeable loss of braking quality but so far they seem to perform at least as well as OEM pads. We'll see if they dust more, but with the $165 I saved him my dad can afford some more washes if necessary.
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Nov 14, 2010 11:09
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