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The Blue Pyramid posted:Is there any US-based online bits store that has both 40k and Fantasy, and not at insane prices? I'm not gonna pay 6 bucks for a single multimelta at the Warstore, and although Bitz Barn has (most) of the Skaven and Marine bits I'm looking for, everything is out of stock there. http://www.apocabitznow.com/ but if your looking for melta guns GW direct actually sells them at a fair-ish price compared to battlewagon bitz http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440339a&prodId=prod1400031
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Nov 9, 2010 20:53
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Calico Noose posted:I'm ordering an Earthen Dire Troll and a Dire Troll Mauler from them for christmas, how long should i expect to wait? I dunno, it's been a while since I ordered anything. 1-6 weeks, I think was my experience. Depends mostly on whether your order's in stock or not.
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Nov 9, 2010 22:52
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Calico Noose posted:I'm getting back into war gaming for the first time since high school and wanted some general advice of paints. Which company's are good value on brushes and paints? Is there any companies that i should avoid buying from? And is anybody in Australia who knows of a good retailer either online or bricks and mortar for this kind of stuff? Pretty much your best bet is Maelstrom Games for paints and figures, DickBill for brushes. The Australian Dollar is way up right now, and local stores won't be able to match those prices. Links arson the OP. Calico Noose posted:I'm ordering an Earthen Dire Troll and a Dire Troll Mauler from them for christmas, how long should i expect to wait? Generally it takes about 10 days after you receive the dispatch confirmation, but that can be days to weeks depending on item availability.
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Nov 9, 2010 23:56
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Calico Noose posted:I'm ordering an Earthen Dire Troll and a Dire Troll Mauler from them for christmas, how long should i expect to wait? They take about 1-2 weeks to process & ship your order, and then the normal 6 working days for shipping I find. Once they send you a shipped email, you're set. Don't worry, it will definitely be there before Christmas.
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Nov 10, 2010 01:41
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So I picked up Ultraforge's Greater Wardemon and was thinking about what to do with it. I've got a self righteous BA player nearby and I've been thinking about naming this demon Ka'Bandha to throw some mud in his face. Towards that end, I've been thinking of changing up his base and having him kneeling in front of some wrecked Blood Angels bike/dreadnought/etc but I'm not sure what'd be best. Any ideas? For reference: 
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Nov 10, 2010 22:09
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Mondian posted:So I picked up Ultraforge's Greater Wardemon and was thinking about what to do with it. I've got a self righteous BA player nearby and I've been thinking about naming this demon Ka'Bandha to throw some mud in his face. Towards that end, I've been thinking of changing up his base and having him kneeling in front of some wrecked Blood Angels bike/dreadnought/etc but I'm not sure what'd be best. Any ideas? can you carve out that hand and have it gripping the semi-crushed torso of that golden seraphim jackass BA guy who's name I forget? Maybe stick a broken wing under its hoof? I guess that's a lot of dremmeling.
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Nov 10, 2010 22:41
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Not that much... his limbs, torso, and the rock he's on are all separate pieces. I figured I'd just ditch the rocky base, put him on a custom one and decorate it with fallen Blood Angels.
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Nov 10, 2010 22:52
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How big is that base?
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Nov 11, 2010 03:48
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Tiny, its like 50mm. I was thinking of just making something bigger or using that big Trygon base, so I could scatter a few dead marines, maybe a sanguinary priest or something alongside whatever he'll be gripping. e: Tiny compared to him, that is. Here's a size comparison with some random stuff on my table. 
Mondian fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Nov 11, 2010 |
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Nov 11, 2010 04:06
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I hate that model because it looks like he's trying to sit in a chair that's way too small for him.
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Nov 11, 2010 06:41
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I hate that model because it looks like he's trying to sit in a chair that's way too small for him. "Look Qzxbixosix, we have some bigger chairs if you want, it's no big deal" "No, no, I don't want to be a bother..."
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Nov 11, 2010 15:20
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Mondian posted:Tiny, its like 50mm. I was thinking of just making something bigger or using that big Trygon base, so I could scatter a few dead marines, maybe a sanguinary priest or something alongside whatever he'll be gripping. Excellent taste in models and cigarettes.
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Nov 11, 2010 16:01
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Yeah, I'd definitely put some dead blood angles around him to gently caress with that guy.
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Nov 11, 2010 23:11
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Are the bitz packs on GW's site direct-only, or can they be purchased at GW stores too?
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Nov 11, 2010 23:35
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So has Ultraforge stopped selling stuff from its site? They've had the 'taking a break, back in January' message up for over a year now.
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Nov 11, 2010 23:59
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Fyrbrand posted:Are the bitz packs on GW's site direct-only, or can they be purchased at GW stores too? Direct-only, but sometimes your GW or FLGS will let you order the bitz to the store then buy them there.
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Nov 12, 2010 00:04
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Spacefrog posted:So has Ultraforge stopped selling stuff from its site? They've had the 'taking a break, back in January' message up for over a year now. Pretty much. You can still get a few of their models from the Warstore, but not everything.
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Nov 12, 2010 01:12
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SRM posted:Direct-only, but sometimes your GW or FLGS will let you order the bitz to the store then buy them there. Just like I suspected. Thanks man.
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Nov 12, 2010 05:31
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 How can I make a base similar to this? Namely the liquidy effects? I'm not good with green stuff, but I suppose you don't have to be to make a basic ball. Would fingerprints show through too much, though?
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Nov 12, 2010 14:59
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Thats Beads, Glue, and water effects.
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Nov 12, 2010 15:04
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Sab669 posted:
There was a guide for this miniature ages ago and he did the base by cutting little plastic balls in half to make the bubbles. Using green stuff for this is just gonna be a pain so I'd rather use the plastic balls, paint them and then cover in varnish.
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Nov 12, 2010 15:07
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Interesting, I'll have to see if I can pick some up later today. I just finished my first box of Chaos Marauders and want to do this for their bases
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Nov 12, 2010 15:49
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Airbrushing gripphone sepia holy poo poo    
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Nov 13, 2010 02:25
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PaintVagrant posted:Airbrushing gripphone sepia holy poo poo What? WHAT? Does it suck? TELL ME!
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Nov 13, 2010 02:51
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PaintVagrant posted:Airbrushing gripphone sepia holy poo poo how do you airbrush a wash without making a retardly huge mess? 
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Nov 13, 2010 02:54
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A BIG loving BLUNT posted:how do you airbrush a wash without making a retardly huge mess? easily! It just sort of tones the whole surface, it's actually pretty sweet.
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Nov 13, 2010 03:32
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It basically glazes the surface with a perfectly even coat, so it doesnt run unlessyou spray too much on. I mixed it with windex a little, it worked pretty much flawlessly and I washed like 20+ marines and 4 tank in about 30 minutes. So yeah holy poo poo
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Nov 13, 2010 03:44
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PaintVagrant posted:It basically glazes the surface with a perfectly even coat, so it doesnt run unlessyou spray too much on. I mixed it with windex a little, it worked pretty much flawlessly and I washed like 20+ marines and 4 tank in about 30 minutes. drat I'm glad I bought that airbrush i'll have to try this
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Nov 13, 2010 05:36
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PaintVagrant posted:It basically glazes the surface with a perfectly even coat, so it doesnt run unlessyou spray too much on. I mixed it with windex a little, it worked pretty much flawlessly and I washed like 20+ marines and 4 tank in about 30 minutes. Yes... Sadly, with my paint scheme, I want the wash to flow, so I gotta do it by hand. 
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Nov 13, 2010 06:51
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PaintVagrant posted:It basically glazes the surface with a perfectly even coat, so it doesnt run unlessyou spray too much on. I mixed it with windex a little, it worked pretty much flawlessly and I washed like 20+ marines and 4 tank in about 30 minutes. That is awesome, and is exactly what I need for better vehicle painting. I may give myself an airbrush as a Christmas present this year. It would reduce my model painting time even further... 
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Nov 13, 2010 09:41
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As PV mentioned, the wash pretty much stays right where you spray it, so it's awesome for tinting models various colors, but you won't get the "in the recesses" look with it. It's kind of hard to describe, but maybe PV has found a way to make them look just as awesome anyways. PV, might I request photos of your washed marines and tanks to see how they turned out? EDIT MK II: Yeah, so I completely missed the awesome skintones link in the OP the first time. 
Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Nov 13, 2010 |
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Nov 13, 2010 09:56
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That's the thing- I use gryphonne sepia to tint a lot of my colors. That's in addition to actually shading various recesses. With my tanks, getting the the Gryphonne Sepia + Desert Yellow color down was a bitch, as I had to keep poking at the wash to (attempt to) prevent the pooling problems. Being able to hit it with an airbrush for the color alteration and then properly hit just the recesses with a brush would make my life a lot easier. That said, I'm trying out a different style for my marines. Rather than starting light and then washing down for shading, I'm trying the dark->light drybrushing/blending thing. We'll see how that goes...
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Nov 13, 2010 10:04
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What dissolves green stuff? Nail polish remover?
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Nov 13, 2010 10:22
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Swags posted:What dissolves green stuff? Nail polish remover? Anything that dissolves green stuff will dissolve plastics and corrode metal pretty badly. Your best bet is to cut it off, or if you are lucky, you can simply "shear" it off by wiggling it back and forth: it will naturally separate from the base material.
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Nov 13, 2010 10:24
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Sole.Sushi posted:Anything that dissolves green stuff will dissolve plastics and corrode metal pretty badly. Your best bet is to cut it off, or if you are lucky, you can simply "shear" it off by wiggling it back and forth: it will naturally separate from the base material. This man speaks truth. I was able to quickly remove ~16 badly done greenstuff breasts from some secondhand Wood Elves with just a little scraping. Really not much effort. Thank god.
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Nov 13, 2010 10:27
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You should give them pink armbands to represent their tragic loss.
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Nov 13, 2010 10:28
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Thanks for the advice. Bought some badly constructed trollbloods on eBay and it looks like they're held together only with greenstuff (as in, no glue). So now I have to break them apart and put them back together. Yey.
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Nov 13, 2010 10:29
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Swags posted:Thanks for the advice. Bought some badly constructed trollbloods on eBay and it looks like they're held together only with greenstuff (as in, no glue). So now I have to break them apart and put them back together. Yey. No glue = that stuff will come right off. Try dropping the model from about a foot if you are confident that you won't ruin any of the detail of the model.
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Nov 13, 2010 10:32
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Couldn't you try the freeze/thaw trick as though it were glue in this case? The stuff should be well hardened to itself, all you really need to do is break the bond to the model.
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Nov 13, 2010 10:33
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simple green makes greenstuff rubbery and easy to peel off and doesn't hurt plastics
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Nov 13, 2010 12:07
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