Bavius posted:

Sweet. I'll be sure to post up my first model once I get the airbrush. I've got a stompa that is staring at me as I type. Also have a baneblade that I dreaded putting together just because I couldn't fathom painting it.

ghetto wormhole posted:

I have 22+ tanks, 3 Sentinels, and a Valkyrie to paint. I'm a beginning painter so detail isn't really what I'm shooting for, and the army is Steel Legion so the camo scheme isn't going to be too crazy. Would the airbrush he linked be good for me? Besides how the paint is fed and the needle size are there really any differences between airbrushes?

HKR posted:

Now that I re-read that, I realized I never wrote the guide on how to make your own glossy/matte/flat varnish. I should get on that soon.

HKR posted:

There are huge differences with different kinds of airbrushes. If you're just starting out, don't go super cheap but don't spend $500. You want to look for something that's double action, internal mix. Gravity fed vs bottom fed is up to you. I have a bottom fed airbrush but I'm beginning to think a gravity fed one would suit me better. Airbrush kits that come with a compressor, pressure regulator and a water trap are also great for beginner.

As long as you don't get something that uses air cans and is single action you should be good to go.

There's a pretty good airbrush guide that I wrote here. Again I remind you that I'm far from an expert. I just do a lot of reading and playing with my current airbrush. But it's a good starting point.

Now that I re-read that, I realized I never wrote the guide on how to make your own glossy/matte/flat varnish. I should get on that soon.

Phyresis posted:

I love you HKR for this guide but where do you buy your Mr. Surfacer 1200 and Mr. Color Leveling Thinner? I can't find that poo poo anywhere

HKR posted:

Places that deal in a lot of japanese models tend to sell em, as Mr. Hobby is a japanese brand. Us distributors get kinda boned because they all get their Mr. Hobby supplies from one distributor, and the entire nation tends to run of out stock before they get restocked.

There's a few sellers on amazon that have some.

Hobby Wave has 1200 in stock, but no leveling thinner.

When I find a place that has a batch of both I tend to buy as much as I can afford since I don't know when I'll be able to get another supply.

Pfhreak posted:

If I clearcoat my minis because I think they are done, then decide I want more detail on something later, can I just paint over the varnish? (I'm thinking about things like the gems on my Menoth minis.)

Phyresis posted:

Awesome bro. Do you have any tips for using Mr. Surfacer to actually fill gaps for 40k models? This is completely new territory for me here. I'd like to fill the gaps in my Rhinos and such.

HKR posted:

Sure thing. I'm building a Baneblade right now and I'm using Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer (Akin to Mr Surfacer 500)to fill gaps.



Here are the notorious fuel barrels on the Baneblade. To fill that gap, GW suggests you use greenstuff, which is not the best tool for this job (Greenstuff is great for filling gaps in metal models, or for sculpting, not for filling small gaps on plastic).

The best thing to do is glue the pieces as tight as possible with plastic glue, letting the plastic melt and bond the pieces as best as possible. After it dries, paint on a line of Mr Surfacer (Or any other liquid gap filler), let it dry, then sand.

If the gap line is still visible, add another layer of surfacer and try again.

Indolent Bastard posted:

How long until GW has its own liquid gap filler but at three times the price and only half the volume?

HKR posted:

Sure thing. I'm building a Baneblade right now and I'm using Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer (Akin to Mr Surfacer 500)to fill gaps.



Here are the notorious fuel barrels on the Baneblade. To fill that gap, GW suggests you use greenstuff, which is not the best tool for this job (Greenstuff is great for filling gaps in metal models, or for sculpting, not for filling small gaps on plastic).

The best thing to do is glue the pieces as tight as possible with plastic glue, letting the plastic melt and bond the pieces as best as possible. After it dries, paint on a line of Mr Surfacer (Or any other liquid gap filler), let it dry, then sand.

If the gap line is still visible, add another layer of surfacer and try again.

HKR posted:

I need a gimmick to stuff inside this baneblade. There is way too much empty space in it to not use it.

Phyresis posted:

Cool, I can get Tamiya stuff from the local hobby store. I'm pretty sure they have Liquid Surface Primer.

Fyrbrand posted:

Does anyone have any idea what this metal thing is?



It'll make for a nice "destroyed chemtank" thing I think, but I have no idea wtf it is. I'd like to get one or two more unbroken ones for additional scenery. The broken one I have, my wife found half buried while doing some yard work.

HKR posted:

I need a gimmick to stuff inside this baneblade. There is way too much empty space in it to not use it.

HKR posted:

I need a gimmick to stuff inside this baneblade. There is way too much empty space in it to not use it.

Fyrbrand posted:

Does anyone have any idea what this metal thing is?



It'll make for a nice "destroyed chemtank" thing I think, but I have no idea wtf it is. I'd like to get one or two more unbroken ones for additional scenery. The broken one I have, my wife found half buried while doing some yard work.

Big Willy Style posted:

So this is how my cold ones are looking at the moment.



Imagine this x8 for the whole group and you get an idea of what they are looking like. I am thinking of doing one more highlight on the fleshy bits. The flesh is Chardonite Granite (or whatever it is called, the foundation paint) base, adding Coat D'Arms Putrid Green (Rotting Flesh GW) for the highlights.

I still haven't decided how to paint my acrtual dark elves, so that is why I started with the cold ones because. I am thinking black highlighted with green, sort of like the new dark eldar are done, or with purple.

Big Willy Style posted:

So this is how my cold ones are looking at the moment.



Imagine this x8 for the whole group and you get an idea of what they are looking like. I am thinking of doing one more highlight on the fleshy bits. The flesh is Chardonite Granite (or whatever it is called, the foundation paint) base, adding Coat D'Arms Putrid Green (Rotting Flesh GW) for the highlights.

I still haven't decided how to paint my acrtual dark elves, so that is why I started with the cold ones because. I am thinking black highlighted with green, sort of like the new dark eldar are done, or with purple.

AbdominalSnowman posted:

That looks awesome, is it just drybrushed? Works well on that sculpt if so. For your actual elves I would go with purple, the cold ones have those yellow undertones which complements purple well. Green might look a little christmas-y.

To the guy a few posts above trying to identify that terrain piece: Looks like a pump to me too, you could probably pick up a few for really cheap from a plumbing supply store. If they don't have them I guarantee you will walk away with something anyway, plumbing shops have so much poo poo that is perfect for terrain and bits.

NecronSchmecron posted: