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What are good black leather cleaners and conditioners? I'm in Arizona so I need every bit of protection I can get.
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Nov 28, 2010 12:21
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Lowclock posted:What are good black leather cleaners and conditioners? I'm in Arizona so I need every bit of protection I can get. Pinnacle Leather & Vinyl Cleaner and Lexol Leather Conditioner.
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Nov 28, 2010 12:32
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Lowclock posted:I'm not really into big/mil trucks like yours, so I don't know if those alts are internally or externally regulated, or if they're self-exciting. Poking around with a multimeter should be able to tell you if it's getting fielded properly or not though. They're internally regulated. Both of my alternators are good, both my batteries are good. Would a constantly energized GP relay drain 2 red tops in 4 hrs or less?
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Nov 28, 2010 22:15
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What's the harm in a 20/80 mix of AF/H20 in cold climates for a week?
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Nov 29, 2010 00:29
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extreme_accordion posted:What's the harm in a 20/80 mix of AF/H20 in cold climates for a week? How cold is "cold"? EG based coolants at that mixture ratio are only good to around like 15f, while PG is only a couple degrees more. If it freezes, your motor/rad can possibly be totally hosed. I'd say drain out some and replace it with straight uncut antifreeze to get back closer to 50/50. 20/80's not really doing poo poo for you anyways. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Nov 29, 2010 |
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Nov 29, 2010 02:50
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Lowclock posted:How cold is "cold"? EG based coolants at that mixture ratio are only good to around like 15f, while PG is only a couple degrees more. If it freezes, your motor/rad can possibly be totally hosed. I'd say drain out some and replace it with straight uncut antifreeze to get back closer to 50/50. 20/80's not really doing poo poo for you anyways. Yeah totally forgot the wife was running round on mostly water. She's hauling it in for a rad flush tomorrow. Ran the motor for an hour today and poo poo seems to be running fine although the car will not survive the winter on it's current mix. -20F or greater can be expected from time to time in extreme_accordion fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Nov 29, 2010 |
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Nov 29, 2010 03:00
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2001 Toyota Echo with a dead battery, me and my roommate's car charged it enough to get the car started, made the mistake of turning it off before letting it charge all the way, now it wont start again but the interior lights will come on and everything - just now when I turn the key I get this loud clicking noise. Did I gently caress up a spark plug or something? Do I need to charge it again and for longer? Am I hosed?
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Nov 29, 2010 06:04
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Jefferoo posted:2001 Toyota Echo with a dead battery, me and my roommate's car charged it enough to get the car started, made the mistake of turning it off before letting it charge all the way, now it wont start again but the interior lights will come on and everything - just now when I turn the key I get this loud clicking noise. The battery has enough charge to run the interior, but powering the starter motor takes significantly more. The click is the starter engaging, but that's as far as the battery can push it. Either put the battery on a charger, or jump the car and drive it for half an hour on the highway.
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Nov 29, 2010 06:41
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Enh, this is random, but my friend offered me his no longer used license plate, it's just two letters and that's cool, I guess, but I wonder if there's some spergy license plate collectors out there that will buy it? I know there are a lot of retards who buy the old numbered plates...
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Nov 29, 2010 08:54
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My 91 Celica GT-Four developed a rather weird problem this morning. At speeds over about 20km/h the speedo completely stops working, going slower than that though it works fine. To make it more interesting the odometer starts and stops along with the speedo so I don't think its the actual speedo itself. Does anyone have any bright ideas as to what I should check to find the problem?
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Nov 29, 2010 08:57
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Grashnak posted:My 91 Celica GT-Four developed a rather weird problem this morning. The speedometer cable may be sticking, the gear that connects to the transmission is worn, or a failing speed sensor if it's an auto.
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Nov 29, 2010 09:24
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Piano posted:Enh, this is random, but my friend offered me his no longer used license plate, it's just two letters and that's cool, I guess, but I wonder if there's some spergy license plate collectors out there that will buy it? I know there are a lot of retards who buy the old numbered plates... Depends on the state. In Delaware you can sell your old ceramic black and white plates. In MD you're supposed to turn in plates back to the DMV.
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Nov 29, 2010 14:41
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Piano posted:Enh, this is random, but my friend offered me his no longer used license plate, it's just two letters and that's cool, I guess, but I wonder if there's some spergy license plate collectors out there that will buy it? I know there are a lot of retards who buy the old numbered plates... Some states have special rules that let you activate original issue plates, or just plates from the vehicles year of manufacture to run on antique cars. Are the "retards" you're talking about doing that? If your friend's aren't that old, just hang them up in the garage like everyone else
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Nov 29, 2010 16:17
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Are there any major problems with running an engine that misfires due to fuel injectors not spraying? I understand running a misfiring engine that's got spark/ignition issues is bad because of the fuel dumped into the catalytic converter and crankcase... but can an engine limp, on say 7 out of 8 cylinders, as long as the problem with the 8th cylinder is a broken injector?
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Nov 29, 2010 17:28
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enginedriver posted:Hi guys just experienced a weird braking problem tonight. When I put the breaks on the cars just started making a noise like a pencil hitting an empty coke can or metal pencil case. Just one hit each time I break. Does that sound familiar to anyone? Two months or so ago I go new brakes and discs on the front and new brakes on the back, as I had a problem with a grinding noise caused by corrosion on the brake discs at the front. Am I being paranoid or just unlucky with my brakes? It would appear my car hates cold weather! It also seems to do it more at sub 30mph speeds but since its only been doing it since this evening I can't be sure. Any ideas? A backed-out caliper bolt could cause a noise like this, among other things. I'd definitely get the brakes inspected.
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Nov 29, 2010 18:47
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Despite living in a dry garage, my MG hates to start now that it's getting chilly. It cranks strong until the battery can't give any more. I usually end up jumping it with my roll around charger, then it fires right up and as long as the engine is the tiniest bit warm, it'll start easily the rest of the day. Weber carb conversion (because I know how hard it was to start ZS-equipped car in the cold) manual choke, fresh plugs and wires, new distributor with a Pertronix kit and new coil. The only idea I have is to bypass the ignition resistor, hoping to get a slightly hotter spark. Is there any problem with that theory? eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Nov 29, 2010 |
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Nov 29, 2010 19:39
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eddiewalker posted:Despite living in a dry garage, my MG hates to start now that it's getting chilly. It cranks strong until the battery can't give any more. I usually end up jumping it with my roll around charger, then it fires right up and as long as the engine is the tiniest bit warm, it'll start easily the rest of the day. To answer my own question, yea, that sounds like a terrible idea for coil longevity, and I need to check for a "starting spark" connection between the starter solenoid and the coil as seen in this generic diagram: http://www.mossmotors.com/forum/forums/thread/5684.aspx
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Nov 30, 2010 00:17
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I have a 1964 Ford Falcon and I cannot find what type of carburetor it is running. I am pretty sure it isn't the stock one and the only identification I've found is this tag on the side. As far as I can tell, the tag reads: Motorcraft DOPFK A7F2O But every search I do gives me vague or contradictory information. 
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Nov 30, 2010 01:13
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Is there any sort of free canadian used car price directory that lists values (ie a blue book equivalent)? I'm looking at replacing my 2 older used cars with something a little more recent but it's hard to shop when prices are all over the place for the same cars.
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Nov 30, 2010 01:21
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Crustashio posted:Is there any sort of free canadian used car price directory that lists values (ie a blue book equivalent)? I'm looking at replacing my 2 older used cars with something a little more recent but it's hard to shop when prices are all over the place for the same cars. If you're looking for KBB, and don't want to pay for it, check the Library. Or maybe try Lemonaid, also at the library.
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Nov 30, 2010 02:41
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Eponine posted:I've had this same problem for 6 years, but the car otherwise drives great and I love it and I miss it when I have to drive other cars. I had this problem and it was a bad (read: old and falling apart) alternator belt. Large chunks of the ribbing had come off over time, and so it wouldn't make a solid connection to the pullies. After driving it for about 10-15 seconds, the belt had warmed up enough that it could get good traction on the pullies and the sound would stop. It also only happened with throttle or under load, so the symptoms are the same. Also, as for your question about if a belt would last that long, mine was like that for several months and several thousand miles simply because I thought it was a symptom of a completely different problem. When I finally managed to fix that problem, the noise was still there, so I found the belt problem and fixed it. If a belt deteriorates just right, it can last a lot longer than you'd think before it completely fails. If changing the belt(s) out doesn't fix it, I've also heard that small vacuum leaks, either from a vacuum line or a gasket on your intake side, can cause the same problem (air leaking causing a vibrating of material similar to buzzing a blade of grass or something) and the noise goes away after a short time for a similar reason (the material warms up and mostly seals the hole). If it's a not-too-terribly-essential vacuum line or a small leak in your intake gasket, you probably won't notice much of a performance hit. Then again, fixing the problem, if it is that kind of problem, since it's been going on for so long, you might not know that you've taken a performance hit since you're so used to driving with it.
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Nov 30, 2010 07:09
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My friend wanted studded snow tires for his wife's car, however he only wanted two since it's a front wheel drive car. Every tire place in town only sold them in sets of four, because according to some of the places, it's dangerous or a liability to have them mixed with older tires. He was absolutely incensed he had to buy a set of four, but I can see why the tire places do that. What specifically, though, is dangerous about it? My knowledge of snow tires is pretty much "good ones = my car handles better"
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Nov 30, 2010 07:37
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padijun posted:My friend wanted studded snow tires for his wife's car, however he only wanted two since it's a front wheel drive car. Every tire place in town only sold them in sets of four, because according to some of the places, it's dangerous or a liability to have them mixed with older tires. He was absolutely incensed he had to buy a set of four, but I can see why the tire places do that. He puts two high grip tires on the front and the rear slips out and spins the car. He puts two high grip tires on the rear and the front never gains any traction. Also, I'm assuming he will put the two tires he took off back on in the spring. At that point, he'll have two tires with drastically different thread wear than the other two, which means replacing two tires sooner and, again, having two tires with drastically different thread wear. Leads to the kinda of situations described above.
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Nov 30, 2010 08:21
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padijun posted:What specifically, though, is dangerous about it? My knowledge of snow tires is pretty much "good ones = my car handles better" It just makes for a huge imbalance in traction between the front and back. My friend managed to find a place that would let him do what you're suggesting, and after like the third time he pulled a 180 from braking at any kind of slight angle, he went back and got the other two.
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Nov 30, 2010 08:29
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I ended up using a microfiber towel and Stoners Invisible Glass on my windshield and i think I solved the residue problem.
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Nov 30, 2010 09:34
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Is it true that in a car accident a windshield will only crack if it is either chipped or has a chip in it? My insurer is being such a tremendous oval office it's actually unbelievable...
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Nov 30, 2010 09:44
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Spaseman posted:I have a 1964 Ford Falcon and I cannot find what type of carburetor it is running. I am pretty sure it isn't the stock one and the only identification I've found is this tag on the side. Pulling some of this out of my rear end, but this is what I've turned up searching for D0PF-K. Should be a single barrel made by Holley for Ford, Holley/Autolite 1940, made in 1970. I'm at a loss on the A7F20, but the 1940 line appears to be for Ford inline 4/6 engines up to 233ci. That particular carb isn't original, but it's likely dealer installed. Looks like rebuild kits are still floating around. Some sort of manual? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:56 on Nov 30, 2010 |
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Nov 30, 2010 10:40
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taupoke posted:Is it true that in a car accident a windshield will only crack if it is either chipped or has a chip in it? My insurer is being such a tremendous oval office it's actually unbelievable... Absolutely not. If the accident deformed the frame around the windshield the stress on the glass can cause a crack without shattering it, the actual jolt of the accident may crack it, a piece of flying debris from the accident may strike the windshield and crack it, in some vehicles the air bag going off can crack the windshield, etc. That's assuming you mean a single or branching crack and not shattered. Sure it's more likely to crack where there is a chip, but how would they prove an unfilled chip was there before the accident and didn't happen during? If there was a filled chip there's no problem.
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Nov 30, 2010 13:25
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zamin posted:I had this problem and it was a bad (read: old and falling apart) alternator belt. Large chunks of the ribbing had come off over time, and so it wouldn't make a solid connection to the pullies. After driving it for about 10-15 seconds, the belt had warmed up enough that it could get good traction on the pullies and the sound would stop. It also only happened with throttle or under load, so the symptoms are the same. I talked to my dad and we're going to fix it some weekend, unless the directions are like "take engine out of vehicle." My dad swears he got the belt changed a few years ago and the problem stopped for awhile, but its obviously back. In terms of performance, I don't expect much out of the vehicle but it still gets combined about 37 mpg.
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Nov 30, 2010 13:56
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pienipple posted:Absolutely not. If the accident deformed the frame around the windshield the stress on the glass can cause a crack without shattering it, the actual jolt of the accident may crack it, a piece of flying debris from the accident may strike the windshield and crack it, in some vehicles the air bag going off can crack the windshield, etc. That's assuming you mean a single or branching crack and not shattered. There is no chip that can be found by the assessor as well... What I've learned about car insurance is that you have to fight these cunts every single step of the way as they'll come up with any excuse to not pay. They are replacing the windscreen but only because the assessor handled my case really badly and they're doing me a "favour" to make up for it. gently caress you Santam, you loving sharks!
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Nov 30, 2010 14:24
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Eponine posted:I talked to my dad and we're going to fix it some weekend, unless the directions are like "take engine out of vehicle." My dad swears he got the belt changed a few years ago and the problem stopped for awhile, but its obviously back. In terms of performance, I don't expect much out of the vehicle but it still gets combined about 37 mpg. One of the very first things I learned to do on a car was change a serpentine belt, and even learning how to do it, it took maybe 20 minutes. And this was back when changing the oil was something I had only an idea of how to do. Granted, that was on a 94 S10 V6 so there was a lot of space to work, which your Corolla might not have. This is one of those jobs that costs you $15 tops for a new belt and then 10 minutes of your time if you have any sort of mechanical inclination at all.
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Nov 30, 2010 16:29
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zamin posted:One of the very first things I learned to do on a car was change a serpentine belt, and even learning how to do it, it took maybe 20 minutes. And this was back when changing the oil was something I had only an idea of how to do. Granted, that was on a 94 S10 V6 so there was a lot of space to work, which your Corolla might not have. This is one of those jobs that costs you $15 tops for a new belt and then 10 minutes of your time if you have any sort of mechanical inclination at all. Its a small car and even for a 97, there's not a ton of room under the hood. The person who responded first was right, its a transverse-mounted engine, so the belt is right against the wheel. I'm minorly mechanically inclined, I can show you how an engine works with some inappropriate hand gestures, and I mostly know what happens when poo poo goes bad. I'm more worried about the brute force involved because I'm *~*just a girl*~*. Like when I rotate my tires, I stand and jump on the wrench to get the bolt to break. In truth, I've been thinking about getting ASE certified since clearly college was a bust.
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Nov 30, 2010 23:02
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On any Ford i've ever used, you need 15 and 16mm combination wrenches. You put the properly sized (I forget which one is the actual size) box end of one wrench on the tensioner pulley, then slip the box end of the other wrench over one ear on the open end of the first wrench. Then you push in a clockwise direction to loosen the belt, slip it off and go to town. It requires maybe 15 pounds of force at the end of both wrenches.
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Dec 1, 2010 00:12
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I just bought a new front hub bearing and noticed the inner race can slide in and out of the hub a full centimeter. Is this normal? I always assumed the bearing itself prevents lateral movement of the wheel, meaning if I installed this my wheel will be free to pop out sideways a centimeter whenever it feels like it?
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Dec 1, 2010 00:58
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Xy Hapu posted:I just bought a new front hub bearing and noticed the inner race can slide in and out of the hub a full centimeter. Is this normal? That's definitely not right. That's front wheel drive? If so, you probably shouldn't be able to get the bearings in or out without a press.
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Dec 1, 2010 01:17
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EightBit posted:That's definitely not right. That's front wheel drive? If so, you probably shouldn't be able to get the bearings in or out without a press. It's actually not that the entire bearing is sliding in and out of the hub, it's that the bearing's inner race slides side to side in it's outer race. Basically it looks as if someone installed an inner race that's too wide, allowing it to not only rotate on the ball bearings but move side to side as well. The car's RWD ('97 318i). The bearing came in a National box, which I've heard is a decent brand. Now that I look closely though, it doesn't match the picture on the Advance Auto site at all, and the only identification mark on the hub itself reads 'Koyo' . . . and the hub looks exactly like the one made by Koyo. Which is supposedly another decent brand. Someone bought a Koyo hub online, realized it was hosed, bought a National at Advance Auto, swapped and returned, and now I got it?  I'm still not sure if it's really hosed or if it's normal, leaning heavily toward the former though.
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Dec 1, 2010 02:07
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97 sunfire gt, really weird issue: Within 10 minutes of starting the car it would: -Hit about 3k rpm, cough, shake, sputter, and stall. -I could get it to continue to cough etc by starting it and putting my foot down, but it'd stall out again in about 10 seconds or less. -Didn't matter if I was in gear, or just reving in neutral. -Car shook like crazy during all of this. Its only done this twice, and it was in the last 1/4 of a tank of gas I got from a seemingly run down gas station. It hasn't done this since I've refilled the tank. Does this sound like bad gas, or should I continue to investigate?
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Dec 1, 2010 03:46
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Not really worth starting a new thread for this, but what can you tell me about the 2001 Buick Park Avenue Ultra? Maybe meatpimp will come out of the ether for this... Coming for the supercharger, staying for the luxury. I know the 3800 is a time tested engine and near bullet proof, but I've heard there can be problems with the transmissions on these. Beyond that, people generally seem to like them. Just wanting to see if an '01 with 93K on the clock is worth it for $6,500.
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Dec 1, 2010 06:42
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Xy Hapu posted:It's actually not that the entire bearing is sliding in and out of the hub, it's that the bearing's inner race slides side to side in it's outer race. Basically it looks as if someone installed an inner race that's too wide, allowing it to not only rotate on the ball bearings but move side to side as well. I'd get this fixed as soon as possible. Your wheel could fall off. Is the big castelated nut torqued right? There's a specific method to do so. Unless it's magical BMW engineering though.
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Dec 1, 2010 08:02
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My Ranger's wheels are rusted through.  I couldn't figure out where the slow leak was coming from, but it turns out there's a tiny crack in the layers of rust directly opposite my tread, in the "middle" of my wheel. I'm bad at describing this. So, I need new wheels. My mechanic brother tells me the bolt pattern is 5x4.5, which I hear is very common, but what about offset (or backspace, or whatever the hell)? Where do I find that information?
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Dec 1, 2010 08:19
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