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Whoa, how have I never heard of those guys? The prices are outrageous, but getting to build and paint my own 72mm Punisher, Captain America, or Doctor Doom is pretty drat tempting.
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Dec 2, 2010 12:57
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haha i know, i saw it linked on another forum and was all set to buy it until i saw the price. also i'd really like to see what you could do with a sculpt like that, your space wolves are great and it'd be cool to see a big display piece by you
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Dec 2, 2010 13:20
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HKR: I was interested in priming with my airbrush because I hate everything else except black gesso and that's black. So I read your guide and went and bought that Mr. Hobby stuff and I want to be able to turn into  and I have a few questions. 1. How much of the stuff can/should I mix up at once (does it store over long periods of time?) 2. Do you have any tips or tricks for the actual process of airbrushing this primer? I'm going to post pics of me priming this poor assault marine and maybe it will help aspiring airbrushers in the future (by showing exactly what not to do, I suspect.)
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Dec 2, 2010 13:55
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You could always airbrush black gesso? 50/50 mix of gesso and windex works I think. I'd just be too worried about ruining my airbrush with the grit of the surfacer, fine that it is.
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Dec 2, 2010 14:14
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Just grab a $15 harbor freight airbrush for priming, that's really all they're good for anyways.
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Dec 2, 2010 14:50
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Bro I know how to airbrush. I have an Iwata HP-BCS with a Sprint Jet compressor. That's a drat sight better than a $15 Harbor Freight. I'm asking HKR for help about this specific airbrush primer.
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Dec 2, 2010 14:59
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30:70 of mr. surfacer to mr. thinner, or there abouts. You'll obviously want to get some test sprues/minis before you embark on trying it on your good minis. Make sure to have some spare lacquer thinner around to clean out your airbrush. Unlike canned primer, this can take several thin coats to get fully on the model. I recently primed my bane blade with this and it took about three hours to get everything primed perfectly. I've stored a mixture of mixed primer in an airtight jar for about a year with zero problems. And for the emperor's sake, wear a loving mask. This poo poo will kill you with the fumes. As for damaging your airbrush, I have more trouble getting GW paints out of mine then Mr. Surfacer, which cleans up very easily.
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Dec 2, 2010 16:32
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Thanks for the tips. It's a little chilly out today, but it seems to be warming up, so I will probably try some test runs this afternoon. I'll let you guys know how it goes. I did some looking around, and there seem to be a couple of different premade airbrush primers that might be worth looking into, if only so I don't kill myself on lacquer thinner. I only have a cheapy 3M paint mask for now, I might have to get a better respirator.Fast_Food_Knight posted:I think he was referring to Sole's point about grit ruining the airbrush, as in, a $15 HF airbrush is fine for priming if you don't want to risk your good one. Hey yeah you are right. My bad, Vaporware. Phyresis fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Dec 2, 2010 |
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Dec 2, 2010 16:38
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Phyresis posted:Bro I know how to airbrush. I have an Iwata HP-BCS with a Sprint Jet compressor. That's a drat sight better than a $15 Harbor Freight. I'm asking HKR for help about this specific airbrush primer. I think he was referring to Sole's point about grit ruining the airbrush, as in, a $15 HF airbrush is fine for priming if you don't want to risk your good one. 'bro, I got this, aight  '
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Dec 2, 2010 20:26
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So I have two questions. 1) The GW airbrush, how is it? I never used one but I can see their value, and since I'm about to start on the path of some Chaos Warriors I'd like some nice fast basecoating and such. 2) Priming, I always do it of course but...how important IS it? I really have no idea how paint works but I thought prime was for like, your house where it'll be exposed to weather and all? How important is it really to our plastic and metal pretend toys?
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Dec 2, 2010 21:08
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shotgunbadger posted:So I have two questions. I can't speak to the quality of the GW airbrush , but priming is important if you want the paint to stay on your models. It essentially sticks to the model more strongly than the paint will, and gives the paint a more toothy surface to stick to. Basically if you don't prime, expect your paintjob to wear/chip a lot more easily.
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Dec 2, 2010 21:33
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Priming is pretty important. I inherited a bunch of models from one of my friends who didn't prime first, and the paint was rubbed off of basically every raised surface. I barely needed to use Simple Green to strip them, I could have just handled them for a couple of hours and had the same effect. You might be able to improve it with some sealant and dullcoat, but then you're basically doing two finishing coats instead of a single primer coat, so it's hardly saving you any time or effort. Also, your primer sets the tone for many colors that go over it (hence people picking a white, black or grey primer). Painting something like yellow onto an unprimed model gives a really weird effect, and trying to get good coverage is a huge pain.
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Dec 2, 2010 21:44
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Priming isn't completely necessary if you are only painting with inks and washes. You're essentially staining the metal. You can clear coat over the top of it and you won't have stuff rubbing off. Just wanted to throw in that caveat.
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Dec 2, 2010 22:23
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Fix posted:Priming isn't completely necessary if you are only painting with inks and washes. You're essentially staining the metal. You can clear coat over the top of it and you won't have stuff rubbing off. Just wanted to throw in that caveat. Yeah, but washes and inks are pretty transparent, so you'd want a primer coat just to have a workable base color. Your comment is true, just not useful.
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Dec 2, 2010 23:58
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Jonny Nox posted:Yeah, but washes and inks are pretty transparent, so you'd want a primer coat just to have a workable base color. Your comment is true, just not useful. Depends on the effect you're going for and how many layers of washes you use.  That's three layers of baal red over bare metal, and the gold is just one of a yellow ink.
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Dec 3, 2010 00:04
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So question I am looking at doing a Skyre Skaven army and I am trying to figure out how to do a yellow that isn't super bright and looks beat up/dirty, any thoughts/ideas?
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Dec 3, 2010 02:26
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Backno posted:So question The Iyaden Darksun foundation paint is a good start, nice yellow with good coverage and brown undertones. If you want it dingier I would hit it with a wash or two of gryphone sepia. When you are highlighting make sure you add bleached bone instead of pure white, white will wash it out. If the bleached bone makes it a bit too bright mix in a touch of snakebite leather or glaze it afterwards.
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Dec 3, 2010 02:40
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AbdominalSnowman posted:The Iyaden Darksun foundation paint is a good start, nice yellow with good coverage and brown undertones. If you want it dingier I would hit it with a wash or two of gryphone sepia. When you are highlighting make sure you add bleached bone instead of pure white, white will wash it out. If the bleached bone makes it a bit too bright mix in a touch of snakebite leather or glaze it afterwards. I was thinking something like that, maybe base coat with a 50/50 mix of Darksun and bleached bone. Make it a more pale yellow maybe, then wash with home made sepia.
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Dec 3, 2010 03:25
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So I just ordered a bunch of P3 sets and some Foundation/Washes from The Warstore. Guess who's gonna be filling their two whole free hours a day doing some wartime painting? Probably around late January I'll start having some new Space Wolves and Dark Eldar to show off. I'm pretty interested in trying the P3 out, because I've never used it at all.
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Dec 3, 2010 06:58
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shotgunbadger posted:1) The GW airbrush, how is it? I never used one but I can see their value, and since I'm about to start on the path of some Chaos Warriors I'd like some nice fast basecoating and such. It is poo poo. Utter, complete poo poo. It's so bad, that the local GW blackshirt recommends against anyone getting their airbrush if they want to get into airbrushing. Reasons: he's sold 3 as far as I know. One was returned because of poor spray quality, another was not returned but broke down within a month (I believe poor cleaning habits were to blame for this one) and the third was "sold" to the store. Despite constant cleaning, the spray gun began to leak paint from around the seam of the entire loving gun. If you just want to do some basecoats, get a $15 dollar harbor freight brush. Remember, the expensive part of an airbrush is the compressor.
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Dec 3, 2010 14:44
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Was this before or after they took them all off the shelves to replace a crucial part with the required metal instead of cheap plastic? Oh GW 
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Dec 3, 2010 15:21
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Likely before, but I imagine that dropping that thing from any significant height will break it.
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Dec 3, 2010 15:34
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I can't imagine that the GW brush is worth it unless you are only going to airbrush one thing and never plan to do so again. It's $30 for the brush and $8 for a can of air. For twice that you can get a functional compressor and decent airbrush from Harbor Freight, you won't have to worry about buying any more air cans and it will work with other brushes and a lot of accessories.
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Dec 3, 2010 16:11
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That's another problem, is the compressed air. This is NOT a good idea even when basecoating with an airbrush. I remember when I was using compressed air with my old airbrush, even when I wasn't loving with the can, sometimes propellant would fly out. It's obvious because of the frozen paint and ice crystals just get thrown on the surface.
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Dec 3, 2010 16:16
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I got one as part of a hobby supply set that my dear old mother bought me one christmas and I can say hand on heart that it is the worst piece of garbage i've ever used. I only used it to try and basecoat a tank and not only did it gobble up a whole pot of paint but most of it dribbled out of the needle because it wasnt aligned properly. All you have to know is that its probably the only piece of kit the staff wont try and upsell you with because they know it will just come straight back.
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Dec 3, 2010 17:28
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But, but, it looks like a flamer! It's totally badass!
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Dec 3, 2010 20:13
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You look like a flamer!  
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Dec 3, 2010 23:22
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I got burnt out way back at the start of the year. Easing myself back into it.    And of course now I can see a little spill over from his hand to the staff that needs correcting.
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Dec 4, 2010 03:17
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Thats pretty sweet.
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Dec 4, 2010 03:38
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Gravitas Shortfall posted: I'm diggin' the lighting on the Plasma coils.
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Dec 4, 2010 04:45
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Painting some models for d&d characters: I cannot photograph metallics apparently.
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Dec 4, 2010 04:58
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TastyAvocado posted:Painting some models for d&d characters: Very 'classic' Which is exactly how minis for D&D should look. Kudos. Anyone else noticing how needlessly big that 28mm dwarf looks by comparison? Maybe I'm just biased because I'm on a 1/72 and 25mm kick
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Dec 4, 2010 05:29
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The big one is about warhammer scale, the other is tiny (on a special tiny base, not one of the usual round bases), and is a halfling barbarian  .
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Dec 4, 2010 05:35
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TastyAvocado posted:The big one is about warhammer scale, the other is tiny (on a special tiny base, not one of the usual round bases), and is a halfling barbarian Really? The base looked almost exactly like a 25mm round base to me! Anyway, the best part is thanks to scale creep that dwarf figure has 'graduated' into being a halfling when placed alongside warhammer scale figures. I do a similar thing with 1/72 where 15mm/18mm figures become halflings. Its still a nice job though. I'd be tempted to try a viking style paintjob on that circular shield, but I have no idea if a person wants that for their character.
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Dec 4, 2010 05:47
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Here they are next to an old marine for a size comparison: While I'm on the subject, here are the old warlord and rogue (the dwarf fighter above is going to be the paragon replacement). There's a model lined up for the paragon warlord but the player wants to paint it himself.  I was going for a classic look like you said, I think they look good, although I always rush. TastyAvocado fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Dec 4, 2010 |
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Dec 4, 2010 05:55
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Super rough Grey Knight Terminator wip: I'm thinking red for the nemesis blades and blue eye lenses. Any thoughts? Also I need to figure something out with the bases. Gray doesn't work as well when the whole model is gray too.
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Dec 4, 2010 06:20
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Fyrbrand posted:Super rough Grey Knight Terminator wip: I always like Graveyard Earth Bases with a Bleached Bone drybrush and some static grass. I also think blue on the blade would look better and help it stand out from the rest of the red on the model. Making the lenses blue also echoes the force weapon's energy and kind of gives him the hint of power emanating from his eyes. I'd love to paint Grey Knights, maybe one day I'll pick up a squad of the new ones.
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Dec 4, 2010 06:59
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TastyAvocado posted:Here they are next to an old marine for a size comparison: I really really like these. I don't know if it's the limited color palette, the overall clean painting, or what, but I love how they look.
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Dec 4, 2010 19:02
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Fyrbrand posted:Super rough Grey Knight Terminator wip: Maybe ruins for the base? With a orangey rust wash? Or something totally different, mars bases or something like that?
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Dec 4, 2010 21:00
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PaintVagrant posted:Maybe ruins for the base? With a orangey rust wash? Or something totally different, mars bases or something like that? The Grey Knights has their home base on Titan, don't they? Maybe something cool like that. Wikipedia has info on Titan's weather, what it is made of and even has topographical maps of the surface.
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Dec 4, 2010 21:30
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