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Sears had a nice sale last weekend so I got a new portable tool box and a small electric air compressor. I got tired of keeping my tools in a lovely old duffel bag and the compressor is basically a glorified boost leak tester (pretty much the only reason I bought it). 
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Dec 12, 2010 11:50
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 17:24 |
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Skyssx posted:Power washer stuff Thanks for the information on this  . I had a feeling this would be the case -- either you bite the bullet and pony up for something decent from the get go or end up buying/repairing one cheap POS after another. Since you seem rather knowledgeable on the subject, what are your thoughts on electric power washers? Are they going to last as long as a decent gas engined unit provided you get one with a good pump?
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Dec 12, 2010 17:30
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I have a lack of experience with electric power equipment, I hear the 240v washers are what to aim for. Electrics do spin the pump at 1800 rather than 3600 RPM, leading to longer pump life. Top dollar gas washers run a belt reduction to accomplish the same ends.
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Dec 12, 2010 17:40
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Sounds like you might want to spend a bit more, yeah, so listen to Skyssx. My reasons for suggesting a cheapo one are that I have pretty minimal use requirements (hosing something down every now and then), and while they're guaranteed to break at some point, a £25 unit every year or two is fine by me.
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Dec 12, 2010 18:19
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The more you use them, the better off the machine, usually. Things that will kill a pressure washer pump: Using a detergent, then failing to completely flush with clear water prior to storage. Highly mineralized water. Leaving the unit in your freezing garage (100%). Failing to purge the pump with alcohol or branded Pump Saver prior to winter. Pinhole leaks on high side of pump, resulting in continuous cycling of unloader valve. Things that will damage a pressure washer engine are the same things you need to look out for with your lawn mower. One thing from the pump list puts a lot of strain on the engine, a high side leak cycling the unloader valve. Then the engine goes from 10%<>100%<>10% load repeatedly. You're going to get back firing like crazy, blown exhaust gaskets and possible valve damage. Governor shaft and throttle shaft wear will also occur, but that's going to happen anyway every time you hit the sprayer lever.
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Dec 12, 2010 18:34
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What do you guys use to heat your garages? I am trying to look for some kind of 120V heater that will be good for a 2 car garage, but I'm not having much luck finding anything. Lowes has a lot of space heaters that have a description as vague as "This will heat a room* *fine print results may vary"
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Dec 13, 2010 02:30
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I use leaky HVAC ducts for the rooms above my garage. Is this an attached garage? 120v electric heaters are limited by the 15 amp breaker they're plugged into and can only put out ~4,600 BTUs which would probably warm an insufficiently heated area that big, but not if its the only source of heat and especially not if it lacks proper insulation. If you can run a gas line to the area, Lowe's has heaters that go up to 30,000 BTUs which is about half the output of my furnace. edit: Skyssx posted:Pinhole leaks on high side of pump, resulting in continuous cycling of unloader valve. I'm pretty sure my dad's Delta has that problem. Its annoying at times but I can usually play with the wand a bit and get it to stop its cycling fit. I actually sell pressure washers at Lowe's but I don't ever tear them apart so I'd like to get your opinion on this: Guy brings back his $1,000 John Deere pressure washer saying that he used it six times in six months and it stopped working. Judging from the metal corrosion he meant either six years or he left it outside that whole time. Even worse, the pump oil (which is usually oil colored) was bright pink and looked more like nail polish. Best we can figure out is that he tried to use some sort of "detergent" clearly not meant for use in a pressure washer and it ate through the seals and contaminated the pump oil. Thoughts? Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 02:42
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:What do you guys use to heat your garages? I am trying to look for some kind of 120V heater that will be good for a 2 car garage, but I'm not having much luck finding anything. Lowes has a lot of space heaters that have a description as vague as "This will heat a room* *fine print results may vary" The best I've seen for garage work are big kerosene heaters which can really pump out some heat.
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Dec 13, 2010 03:06
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:What do you guys use to heat your garages? I am trying to look for some kind of 120V heater that will be good for a 2 car garage, but I'm not having much luck finding anything. Lowes has a lot of space heaters that have a description as vague as "This will heat a room* *fine print results may vary" Kerosene forced air/turbine heater/torpedo heater attached to a cheap thermostat. It's an awesome setup. You can have a warm garage in about 10 minutes flat. If you run diesel instead of kerosene, it barely smells and it's marginally cheaper to run (kerosene is dumb, I don't know why it even exists anymore). Walk out into the garage, spin the thermostat to 60 and by the time you've got some decent music on and the tools out, you can take off the coat and work comfortably. They are really loud, but once you're up to temp, it's not on very often. I'm strongly considering making an outdoor woodburning furnace out of some oil drums and using a little 1.2hp motor to run a small fan. A 55 gallon drum as a burn box exhausting into a smaller drum above and then out a stack with a 55 around the top drum as a heat box would work beautifully. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 03:24
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How safe is it to run those propane torpedo heaters or any propane heater in a garage with regards to it not being vented.
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Dec 13, 2010 03:28
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It won't make you die immediately, and it's probably wise to leave the door cracked.(e: the big door) Spraying around a bunch of flammable stuff is also unwise. It terms of combustion it's probably not doing you any good, but after it's caught up it's not on for very long, and propane burns rather clean. e: here, I made a terrible drawing of what I want to build.  It could go either way, although I'd think that having it exhaust into a small drum would be wise and heat the 55 more effectively. To be honest, it's mostly so I have something to do with my little 1.2hp clinton engine. Then I just need about 20 more projects for all the other small engines sitting around at my parent's house. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 03:35
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:What do you guys use to heat your garages? I am trying to look for some kind of 120V heater that will be good for a 2 car garage, but I'm not having much luck finding anything. Lowes has a lot of space heaters that have a description as vague as "This will heat a room* *fine print results may vary" Several 2000W halogen work lights. Kills 2 birds with one stone.
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Dec 13, 2010 03:43
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Torpedo heaters aren't supposed to be used indoors, so I guess it depends on your garage. The wall style heaters that are usually available in natural gas, propane or both are typically vent-free and your biggest problem becomes moisture from the exhaust making things moldy if it never gets a chance to go anywhere else. Propane wall heaters also tend to want a 100+ pound tank, not the 20 pound tank that grills and torpedo heaters run off of. Also, keep in mind that any ignition source in a garage is supposed to be kept at least 18 inches (I think, might want to look that up) off the ground to keep any gas fumes from setting your shins on fire. Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 03:46
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I purchased mine last year, this is what I got http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200307959_200307959 Its pricey but you can run it all the time with out the worry of the whole mold issue, fairly efficient, I haven't noticed a huge increase in my gas bill. It is direct vent so you don't need to do anything fancy either. Just purchase an el cheapo thermostat. Big drawback.... price. I purchased mine for 450ish, and now they have it on sale for 400.
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Dec 13, 2010 04:35
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:What do you guys use to heat your garages? I am trying to look for some kind of 120V heater that will be good for a 2 car garage, but I'm not having much luck finding anything. Lowes has a lot of space heaters that have a description as vague as "This will heat a room* *fine print results may vary" A big fuckoff gas separated combustion heater that came with my garage. The PO must have run it throughout the winter, but its a cinder block garage with no insulation and drafty doors so I took the thermostat off and wired up a wall switch and only run it when I'm working in the garage. e: Like the one BrokenKnucklez posted, just bigger and from 1970.
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Dec 13, 2010 08:22
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I am planning on putting a used wood stove in my garage. Wood is free to me. As long as no one dumps gas on it I should be fine, if not new garage.
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Dec 13, 2010 18:05
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somewhat of a tool question...any brand recommendations for headlight restoration kits?
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Dec 13, 2010 18:49
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BraveUlysses posted:somewhat of a tool question...any brand recommendations for headlight restoration kits? They are all pretty much the same. If you wanted you could just get some really fine wet/dry paper and some polish and go at it. Edit: Oh and remove them first if you can, less annoying and you don't have to risk loving your paint. Suniikaa fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 20:07
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BraveUlysses posted:somewhat of a tool question...any brand recommendations for headlight restoration kits? Try pissing on them: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cy_WF5Iei_I
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Dec 13, 2010 21:10
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So whats the best, free PC OBDII software at the moment? I ordered my dad a OBDII dongle and need something to use it with. If there is something amazing that is pay, that works too. Stuff like real time diagnostics/stats is a major plus.
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Dec 13, 2010 21:55
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I got a cheap ELM327 clone and tried out a number of programs with it, but I had the best luck with the version of ScanTool.net that came with my reader. If you go to scantool.net now they don't seem to offer it for download anymore, but they do have a free piece of software you can try out: http://www.scantool.net/obdwiz/ I'm guessing this is just the newer version of the old ScanTool.net software, as the version I have is from 2006.
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Dec 13, 2010 23:23
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Nah, OBDWiz is some new thing that requires a license to do anything. Kind of annoying. The old software is still around somewhere, you've got to dig a bit.
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Dec 14, 2010 00:07
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Ahh yeah, you're right, it's just that it ships free with their tools. Here's the program I have, it's GPL'd and comes with the source so this isn't  http://www.future-shocked.com/files/data/cafdb13483834807eae2aca86b58ad83.zip If you use a newer version of the ScanTool.net program, it won't work with an ELM327 clone (it can detect that it isn't a real ELM327 chip). *edit* This isn't the installer, just the directory it installed to, but you can try it out at least and see if it works
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Dec 14, 2010 00:34
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Suniikaa posted:They are all pretty much the same. If you wanted you could just get some really fine wet/dry paper and some polish and go at it. What sort of polish? Brand/ Type as an example?
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Dec 14, 2010 00:40
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What kind of things can you do with these ELM 327 devices? Can you get realtime output or do they just read and clear codes?
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Dec 14, 2010 00:52
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You can get realtime output, but it's far slower than you'll get from something like HPTuners on a LS1. Best I've ever gotten is about 4Hz - that is, one sensor four times a second, or two sensors twice a second, or four sensors once a second, etc. It does come in handy in that you do get to see the actual sensor data, though, and not just freezeframe data.
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Dec 14, 2010 00:55
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morethanjake32 posted:What sort of polish? Brand/ Type as an example? When I did mine I used wet/dry sandpaper then finished with http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR
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Dec 14, 2010 01:00
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morethanjake32 posted:What sort of polish? Brand/ Type as an example? It depends how bad the plastic is, but novus works pretty well: http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Plastic-Polish-Scratch-Remover/dp/B001J7EVCQ you really only need bottle #2
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Dec 14, 2010 01:28
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Awesome, thanks. Goodbye nasty headlights. Some guy at a gas station in San Diego, ca was working the parking lot giving out "free samples/demonstation" of his headlight cleaning product (f-21 was the name I think). I told him no, but thats a pretty good way to hook the customers. Clean part of something and then if you want the rest you pay greatly. No one wants half a clear headlight.
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Dec 14, 2010 02:51
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Welp that really sucks. I was hoping to get something decent to heat with 120V but I guess there isn't anything. It is unattached with no gas or 240V. Maybe kerosene it is.
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Dec 14, 2010 02:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:You can get realtime output, but it's far slower than you'll get from something like HPTuners on a LS1. Best I've ever gotten is about 4Hz - that is, one sensor four times a second, or two sensors twice a second, or four sensors once a second, etc. I'm trying to score ScanTool.net's Bluetooth OBDII unit for Christmas, it's about $150 and it'll talk to Torque on an Android phone, the one I already use for GPS speed/route tracking, Google Maps, and a radio. gently caress a car stereo, I'm planning to just put an amp in and hook to that with an headphone-to-RCA Y cable. Smartphones are rad.
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Dec 14, 2010 22:57
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Suniikaa posted:When I did mine I used wet/dry sandpaper then finished with http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR I did the same and it worked awesomely.
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Dec 17, 2010 15:51
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Maybe this isn't the place for it, but does anyone have a strong preference between the newest models of corded / cordless Dremels? The 4000 or the 8200? I'm heavily leaning towards the cordless, as I'm going to be moving out of my house with garage into an apartment with unknown storage and workspace situations. I'd mainly be using it for cutting / sanding things, normal dremel things, but I'd eventually want to get the drill press thing for making holes in various kinds of enclosures for electronics projects. I really can't imagine a situation where the cordless one would really hinder me, but that's why I'm asking.
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Dec 17, 2010 21:28
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I don't use my cordless one often (sorry, don't remember the model number), so it always has a dead battery when I pick it up. I need to remember to charge it before I need to use it. And the battery life isn't amazing. Good enough for small jobs, but it drains kinda quickly if you need to use it for more than 10-15 minutes. Still, I bought it because I'm in an apartment and can't get power out to the parking lot where I would use it. I'd rather have a corded one, but a cordless one I can use is preferable over a corded one that I cannot.
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Dec 17, 2010 21:39
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I need something for organizing and identifying the numerous nuts/bolts that I will be taking off of this e30 project I've got going. What would be ideal for this purpose?
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Dec 18, 2010 16:28
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Punch holes in a piece of cardboard with an ink pen or something and put all the bolts in it and then label where they came from. This is both free and fairly effective
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Dec 18, 2010 16:34
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AnomalousBoners posted:Punch holes in a piece of cardboard with an ink pen or something and put all the bolts in it and then label where they came from. This is both free and fairly effective
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Dec 18, 2010 17:40
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grover posted:Sketches help, too.
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Dec 18, 2010 18:09
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InitialDave posted:Photos, too, now digital cameras are so cheap.
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Dec 18, 2010 18:20
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 17:24 |
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Wherever possible, put the bolt/nut back where it came from. Lug nuts get stored on the lugs, alternator bolts get put back on the alternator. If that doesn't work, put them in a baggie, write where they came from, and tape the bag to the part.
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Dec 18, 2010 18:27
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