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Strut tops wouldn't do that since they are shocks, not struts. Check your alignment cam bolts and make sure they are all tight.
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Dec 27, 2010 22:41
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FatCow posted:Strut tops wouldn't do that since they are shocks, not struts. Check your alignment cam bolts and make sure they are all tight. Ah, that's what I meant. Ok, I'll check those. drat, guess I have to jack the car up  Thanks!  Edit: You called it. One of the adjustments was loose. Looks like I have to take it in for an alignment again, take the wrenches with me, and yell at them for not tightening it. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Dec 28, 2010 |
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Dec 27, 2010 23:01
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Any things to look out for when changing the head gasket valve cover? Changing the spark plugs, wires and airfilter as well. Going to follow the garage guide from mnet but if there are any other pro tips I'd like to hear them.
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Dec 28, 2010 20:57
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Valve cover gasket is extremely straight forward, at least on the 1.6. Make sure you get the cover clean and torque in the right order and you shouldn't have any problems.
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Dec 29, 2010 01:28
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Don't torque the bolts to foot/lbs instead of inch/lbs And yeah torque in a spiral pattern. When removing the PCV, be careful. Probably remove the hose from the intake manifold side. Old PCVs are brittle as hell, I've learned. Also get your valve color powder-coated neon pink.
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Dec 29, 2010 04:28
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Good news: Insurance doesn't want to total the car after all. Might get a respray out of it, even.  Bad news: Their estimate includes absolutely no parts to address the 30 degrees of toe in. No steering rack, no balljoints, nothing, and I'm sure something under there is at least significantly bent, if not outright broken. The only labor other than paint and remove/replace is "check unibody alignment". Glad I'm having it towed to the shop that kept straightening my sister-in-law's '95M back out.
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Dec 31, 2010 03:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:Good news: Insurance doesn't want to total the car after all. Might get a respray out of it, even. Bad news: Insurance wants to total the car after all. Badder news: Their market value came up short of what I think is acceptable and they're basically telling me to get hosed and came up with a ridiculously unreasonable counter-argument to my offer of researching cars that are in similar condition.
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Dec 31, 2010 04:07
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Phone posted:Bad news: Insurance wants to total the car after all. Our claims rep insisted at first that it'd be a sure total and that if we weren't happy with the amount, we'd have to pay for an appraiser to counterargue it, and that she'd only seen two cars she thought were totals that weren't. Then their estimate came back at $1300 on a car that at worst, books at $4k 
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Dec 31, 2010 04:25
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Guy who was going to sell me a head may be backing out. I think he might have a 99 head + intake manifold for a lot more money but hey why not, and I would need what else? Fuel rail? If that falls through as well, I don't have PMs but if DreamOn13 or anyone else who happens to have a good strong 1.8 head laying around, I'd be happy to pay ~180 shipped (shipping was $30 for the other guy apparently). Email me jkloving at gmail dot com.
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Dec 31, 2010 04:34
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I have a 1.8 head that is making noises that I can't find.  If you want to do the pro/crazy thing and put VVT on your engine, this is a good opportunity. I think Fatcow can give you the details (read: dollar amount).
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Dec 31, 2010 04:38
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It cost me right around 2k to swap the 2001 motor into my car. That includes, motor, timing belt/wp, some misc sensors my motor didn't come with, 1999 fuel rail, megasquirt 3, new motor mounts. I think the only thing you'll need from the 1999 is the fuel rail (use your NA fuel pressure regulator) and the EGR system. If you're going through the trouble of the swap you might as well go right to the 2001+ head. The box to control the VVT is $200 from DIYautotune or 949racing.
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Dec 31, 2010 17:45
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Just did some math, need to do some more to figure out shipping and figure out what does and doesn't come with FCM coilovers, but... Grand Total: 3957.41 (minus shipping) Fun is here: http://fyad.org/11nza
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Jan 2, 2011 08:04
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Figured I should cross post from the stupid question thread:quote:I went to change the spark plugs on my 94 miata and when I was pulling #4 it wasn't really coming out.. so I tugged a little harder on the top of the boot and:
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Jan 3, 2011 19:20
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Yes.
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Jan 3, 2011 20:08
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At least it came apart at the top. I was changing my plugs the other day and the inside of the boot stayed attached to the plug when I pulled the wire out. Which of course prevented me from getting the socket on the plug. I spent 5 minutes cursing my cheap harbor freight socket before I looked in the well with a flash light. Had to use a pick to pull it out.
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Jan 3, 2011 22:00
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That happened to me too. I would pull the boots out with needle nose pliers and the lead was still attached to the plug. So I just yanked the lead off after that. All went well after I got through the first one. The process was just hosed up - pull the top of the boot off/break the wire(which actually became beneficial because the wire gets in the way when you're trying to get a grip with pliers) then try to get a grip on the crumbling part of the bottom boot as it is disintegrating, then pull out bits of hard rubber from inside the case then spark plugs out, new one in, new wire on. Rinse. Repeat. Ugh.
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Jan 4, 2011 03:10
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You can get about an inch more of working room if you pull the valve cover off, if needed. I had a spark plug break off in a weird way once, had to just put a glob of jb weld on a 3/8ths hose and let it sit overnight, then yanked it apart the next day.
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Jan 4, 2011 03:59
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I wouldn't bother pulling the valve cover when doing spark plugs because you'll wind up dumping poo poo into the valvetrain.
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Jan 4, 2011 04:19
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Right, so my hard top latches are broken and I had to duck tape them in place so that my roof wouldn't tear off on the freeway. Where's the cheapest place to get new ones? The little nubbies on the plastic part have worn away, so when I hit a bump they pop open.
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Jan 9, 2011 01:50
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I would try calling planet miata, I've had good luck with them when I couldn't source used parts locally. Aren't the hard top top latches the same as the soft top latches too?
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Jan 9, 2011 02:12
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Mazdaspeed, craigslist, or clubchodestar.
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Jan 9, 2011 05:58
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You might also check for any local miata clubs. the one here is full of p cool dudes, even if they do want me to pay fr the privilege of driving my miata in my city(I don't).
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Jan 9, 2011 08:47
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We got moved into our new shop this week, just about done getting it set up. Already crammed full of cars, and our rental car isn't even back from the cage guy yet. Pretty solid mix of badass - there are a pair of customer cars (each getting forged motors and some form of forced induction), my black turbo car, and our new LS1 shop build. 
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Jan 9, 2011 19:45
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What's going on with the turbo car? Is it just easier to move it around when it's like that?
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Jan 9, 2011 20:36
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FatCow posted:What's going on with the turbo car? Is it just easier to move it around when it's like that? Front brakes are off for R&D on our new 11.75" Wilwood setup, front hubs are getting rebuilt, and there's no suspension in it (waiting for Xidas) so it's the only way to move it around the shop right now.
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Jan 9, 2011 20:59
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Beginning of last year: Beginning of this year: 
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Jan 11, 2011 01:25
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Click here to increase your size by up to 3"!!!
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Jan 11, 2011 01:26
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$10 doesn't go as far as it used to.
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Jan 11, 2011 14:37
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Drove my miata through 4 inches of unplowed county highway to work this morning. All the other vehicles I saw were trucks so I felt pretty  didn't break 30 mph though
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Jan 11, 2011 15:12
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My 1996 miata isnt compensating for load at idle (turning on headlights kills the motor), but idles fine otherwise. any ideas?
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Jan 11, 2011 17:40
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I'm seriously getting a NB. My upper limit for a car is $7k and I'd really rather not go over 6. As such, a lot of the ones I'm looking at have mileage around or above 100k. How are miatas on reliability when you get above 100k? I have no mechanical experience beyond checking and refilling fluids and I don't make much money so expensive repair bills would sink me. Are there any common issues I need to be wary of?
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Jan 11, 2011 18:14
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:My 1996 miata isnt compensating for load at idle (turning on headlights kills the motor), but idles fine otherwise. any ideas? Check your battery.
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Jan 11, 2011 18:34
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:My 1996 miata isnt compensating for load at idle (turning on headlights kills the motor), but idles fine otherwise. any ideas? Idle air valve. There is a electrical plug under the throttle body, unplug it and see if the car behaves the same. flavaaDAAAAAVE posted:I'm seriously getting a NB. My upper limit for a car is $7k and I'd really rather not go over 6. As such, a lot of the ones I'm looking at have mileage around or above 100k. How are miatas on reliability when you get above 100k? I have no mechanical experience beyond checking and refilling fluids and I don't make much money so expensive repair bills would sink me. Are there any common issues I need to be wary of? Rust. Phone tracks his NA at ~180k miles. I track mine at 90k miles.
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Jan 11, 2011 18:40
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flavaaDAAAAAVE posted:I'm seriously getting a NB. My upper limit for a car is $7k and I'd really rather not go over 6. As such, a lot of the ones I'm looking at have mileage around or above 100k. How are miatas on reliability when you get above 100k? I have no mechanical experience beyond checking and refilling fluids and I don't make much money so expensive repair bills would sink me. Are there any common issues I need to be wary of? NB specific poo poo to look out for: -You're going to be replacing the coilpacks (and wires) somewhat regularly, you can only use coils for 99s and 00s -Might have some issues regarding ignition and the cat, emphasis on might -If kept outside your headlights properly are fogged over (as with any car with "normal" headlights) -BOSE is a pain in the rear end to deal with. If you want a new headunit to work with your phone and/or iPod, there are a few workarounds but you might have to replace every single piece with aftermarket stuff Normal Miata/car stuff: -Rust usually shows up in the rocker panels due to how water is routed with the softtop. Unless if you're in the north, then it's probably everywhere. -Timing belt and waterpump every 60/105k; non-interference so it winds up being an inconvenience versus a brand new engine -Stock radiator has plastic endtanks -Softtop might be hosed up, replacements range from 300 on the cheap side to 600-700 for a decent top with a glass rear window with a defroster -Hardtops are generally considered a worthwhile investment (especially in the winter months) -Depending on how the car was driven, you'll probably need to have a new clutch put in it eventually. The clutch itself costs about 110+shipping, labor is another issue. -Get a prepurchase inspection done. $80 dollars is chump change when you're considering to buy something that is going to cost you $6k.
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Jan 11, 2011 18:58
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Phone posted:NB specific poo poo to look out for: I've never had an issue with the coilpacks on my '99 over 60k miles (from ~42k when I bought it to 104k where it is at the body shop today), and I only did the wires because I was sure I was going to destroy the originals when I pulled them to do plugs as well at 100k, along with the belt and waterpump (I was right). Are you in AZ? Want to buy my '99 when it gets done at the bodyshop? 
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Jan 11, 2011 19:41
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Phone posted:NB specific poo poo to look out for: Thank you for that. IOwnCalculus posted:Are you in AZ? Want to buy my '99 when it gets done at the bodyshop? heh. NC. If anyone is close and looking to sell I'd be willing to check it out. I have a bunch of NA's and NB's to check out this weekend. 
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Jan 11, 2011 22:01
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Fatcow and I are both in RTP.
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Jan 11, 2011 22:06
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Oh really? I'm in N. Raleigh. How'd the miata do in the ice?
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Jan 11, 2011 22:29
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You can't drive on the ice. Just a fact. Mine was totaled out by insurance last week, and I was supposed to go get an alignment today but had to cancel since everything was a sheet of ice. The car is easy to drive as long as you have decent and appropriate tires. It does decently enough in snow with the all-seasons that I have, but the thing weighs nothing and that has it's penalties in the snow. Since you're in the area, call up Long Road Racing (NE Raleigh) or Sports and Compacts (next to the Fairgrounds) for a PPI. LRR is the real deal when it comes to a shop, though right now they're going from Daytona to Sebring for testing in the Rolex series.
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Jan 11, 2011 22:33
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flavaaDAAAAAVE posted:I'm seriously getting a NB. My upper limit for a car is $7k and I'd really rather not go over 6. As such, a lot of the ones I'm looking at have mileage around or above 100k. How are miatas on reliability when you get above 100k? I have no mechanical experience beyond checking and refilling fluids and I don't make much money so expensive repair bills would sink me. Are there any common issues I need to be wary of?
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Jan 12, 2011 02:30
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