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Myrddin Emrys posted:Looking into it, is this to keep the "factory" options like speed-volume control (the thing that changes the volume based on the speed of the vehicle) or is this REQUIRED? It specifically says they "recommend" it, which implies it's not required? It's not clear. If you actually have an upgraded factory system - typically denoted by the addition of an aftermarket stereo manufacturer's name (ie, "Optional Bose Sound System") or phrases like "Audiophile Package" or "8/12 speakers with subwoofer" - you probably will need a specialty adapter. If you just want to keep ancillary features like steering wheel controls or speed-compensated volume you may need (but don't necessarily have) to buy an adapter specifically for that purpose. e: just looked up that adapter it listed on Crutchfield's website, assuming you entered the correct information regarding your vehicle I'm p sure you do need it. While you probably could get away without it, you'd be losing a large amount of the functionality you currently have; quote:The PAC C2R-FRD1 is an essential installation accessory for select 2005 and up Ford / Lincoln / Mercury vehicles with MSCAN databus radios. Using this interface will enable factory features such as rear seat entertainment (RSE), rear seat controls (RSC) and the THXII amplifier when the original radio is removed. Other features of the C2R-FRD1 include data bus driven retained accessory power (RAP), vehicle speed sensor (VSS) output, illumination, reverse output, parking brake output and a 5-volt regulated amp turn-on for factory installed subwoofers. The C2R-FRD1 also makes use of the factory AUX input jack (if available). Geoj fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Dec 26, 2010 |
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Dec 26, 2010 21:44
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Geoj posted:If you actually have an upgraded factory system - typically denoted by the addition of an aftermarket stereo manufacturer's name (ie, "Optional Bose Sound System") or phrases like "Audiophile Package" or "8/12 speakers with subwoofer" - you probably will need a specialty adapter. If you just want to keep ancillary features like steering wheel controls or speed-compensated volume you may need (but don't necessarily have) to buy an adapter specifically for that purpose. Mine is as stock as it comes. I also don't have steering wheel controls, rear-seat a/v, or any of the fun stuff the adapter mentioned. Only thing I have it mentioned was the volume control, which I don't particularly care about. With the stuff that comes from Crutchfield, is it a fairly easy install then? And is that unit alright? It has 4 stars on Crutchfield. Looks like everything I want is included?
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Dec 26, 2010 21:50
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In that case the only thing(s) I would be worried about are the retained accessory power, VSS and reverse and parking brake output. I can't tell based on their description if you would only lose these in regard to the stereo or if other systems in the car would also lose access to this data with the removal of the stock stereo.
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Dec 26, 2010 21:58
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Geoj posted:In that case the only thing(s) I would be worried about are the retained accessory power, VSS and reverse and parking brake output. I can't tell based on their description if you would only lose these in regard to the stereo or if other systems in the car would also lose access to this data with the removal of the stock stereo. What do you mean regarding reverse/parking brake output? Should I just splurge and get the adapter? It's 50% off for some reason, so it's $60.
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Dec 26, 2010 22:00
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Reverse and parking brake output in the sense that the computer and related systems would know if the parking brake is applied or the car is in reverse. If everything else loses the VSS signal your speedometer and odometer would stop working as well. You may just want to get the adapter regardless; one thing I didn't think of is if you want to be able to watch DVDs on that headunit you'll either need to hook it into the wiring loom or defeat the parking brake interlock that prevents it from playing video when the car is doing anything other than being parked with the parking brake applied.
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Dec 26, 2010 22:04
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I asked about these cars in general a few pages back, and got no replies. Now I'm close to pulling the trigger on one, so I'm cross-posting this from the VW Q&A thread. http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1998-Audi-A4-Sedan-W0QQAdIdZ249377302 Aside from the fact that he can't spell, the car looks good, drives smooth and quiet, brakes nicely, no noises creaks or anything that doesn't work. He's a mechanic, and will sell it safetied through his shop if I pay for the paperwork. He'll also put it up in the air for me to check over when/if I go back to finalize. Questions: -Is it worth the price, seeing it seems in very good condition? It seems about par in the area. -Any issues I should look for that aren't covered here or in the ad? -Any good reason I shouldn't be buying this model or generation at all?
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Dec 26, 2010 22:26
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Geoj posted:Reverse and parking brake output in the sense that the computer and related systems would know if the parking brake is applied or the car is in reverse. If everything else loses the VSS signal your speedometer and odometer would stop working as well. Just placed an order for the NX500 with the adapter. Also grabbed a Sirius radio tuner because I have a really old XM subscription (family pack) I don't use anymore and it's compatible  Total order came to $611 or so, shipped here by Wednesday. Gives me a week to get it in the car. That should be enough, right?
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Dec 26, 2010 22:30
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this is a stupid AI question. is brigdh quoting me? "That's not an oil leak. That's the automatic oil change and chassis protection feature." I feel as though that were me. Real question: Where can I find exhaust style tubing but smaller? Like 15mm or so? I don't know the exact size and have multiple automotive misuses. One of which is replacing a coolant hard line which runs under the bloody plenum on the fairlane. because of the position the injector rail has rubbed through it in multiple places, hence my need for feeding the cooling system stop leak until I can make a replacement part because all the engine peripherals are made from unobtainium. While I'm venting, Non ODB-II compliant EEC-V ECU? WHY? Thanks for the orphans, Ford.
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Dec 26, 2010 23:43
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General_Failure posted:Real question: 15mm is 0.590", most metal stores do everything in standard. 5/8" gets you 0.625" or 1/32" oversize for tubing. Depending on how much you need, and where you are you might want to just order through https://www.mcmaster.com
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Dec 26, 2010 23:57
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FormulaXFD posted:15mm is 0.590", most metal stores do everything in standard. 5/8" gets you 0.625" or 1/32" oversize for tubing. Depending on how much you need, and where you are you might want to just order through https://www.mcmaster.com Good to know. I just figured they'd stock the thicker structural stuff. I might have to pay Metaland a visit.
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Dec 27, 2010 00:05
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Does anyone know what's wrong with my tire? It looks weird.
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Dec 27, 2010 04:21
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Its a ticking time bomb...eventually the thin outer ply is going to pop, leaving you with a flat tire. Put the spare on now and have that tire replaced. If you're wondering what caused it - anything from hitting a particularly bad pothole to a defective tire. Geoj fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Dec 27, 2010 |
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Dec 27, 2010 04:32
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You have a bubble, it could be a manufacturing defect or one of the belts inside the tire could have broken. Either way the tire is toast and you should replace it ASAP before it blows out on you.
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Dec 27, 2010 04:59
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General_Failure posted:this is a stupid AI question. I'm not aware of you saying that (not to say you haven't). Its a reference to my RX-7 which had 3 oil leaks that ended up coating nearly everything in oil when I got the car.
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Dec 27, 2010 06:20
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Thanks for the info guys. Guess I'll go get it replaced tomorrow. Second tire I've had to replace within the last 5 months, now if I can only tell if this was the new one or not lol.
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Dec 27, 2010 07:05
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Myrddin Emrys posted:Looking into it, is this to keep the "factory" options like speed-volume control (the thing that changes the volume based on the speed of the vehicle) or is this REQUIRED? It specifically says they "recommend" it, which implies it's not required? It's not clear. That'd be one of those things that connects those kind of options, ya. The adapter that came with my headunit came with wires for an amp, auto antenna and a couple other things for stuff I'd never use, and that's on a 22 year old car. Like others have mentioned, the biggest pain in the rear end on most receiver installs is actually getting the old one out. Once you get that, aftermarket receivers are usually a lot easier to put in than the factory ones. Crutchfield's really nice because they include an installation manual for your specific car and the harness adapter they give you usually is color coded to the receiver's harness. Basically it's just connect all the wires from the 2 harnesses together and then plug one end into the new receiver and the other into your car's harness. Anybody who's anything even resembling competent with electrical or mechanical things, which as a goon I'm assuming you are, should have absolutely zero problem with something like this. Unless you're rewiring your entire car and adding a lot of custom stuff, a basic stereo install is incredibly easy.
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Dec 27, 2010 18:12
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zamin posted:That'd be one of those things that connects those kind of options, ya. The adapter that came with my headunit came with wires for an amp, auto antenna and a couple other things for stuff I'd never use, and that's on a 22 year old car. Well, I ended up buying the Clarion NX500 because Clarion is apparently a good brand (says the internet) and the NX500 has gotten rave reviews everywhere I've looked. I've had a hard time finding someone saying anything negative (though a few people had minor gripes). It was on special on crutchfield for $500, so with that and a couple extras I paid $600 total. Best Buy wanted $1000 for a device with less features, and $160 extra for installation, and it would take several weeks because they didn't have the trim for my car. I am not really worried about the wiring + putting it into the dash, so much as the antennas. I will have (I assume) both a GPS antenna and a satellite radio antenna I need to run ... somewhere. Also a USB cable extender. I don't know what the hell is under the dashboard so I have no idea where/how to run these antennas to somewhere that's not in the way, and I obviously don't want cables everywhere... (edit: I also did get the adapter, just because it was half off if I got the receiver and hey, let's do it right.)
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Dec 27, 2010 18:31
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Radar Detectors. We know the Valentine One is good, and from what I've heard, the Escort (9500?) is as well. How's the Whistler XTR-695 [1]?
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Dec 27, 2010 23:20
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I woke up today and went outside to my SUV only to realize the bubble in my tire was gone now. So I went to the tire store and told the guy I had a bubble, but it had disappeared. He mentioned something about bubbles not usually disappearing like that so he came out and looked at it and told me I shouldn't need a new tire unless it comes back again. Was that bad advice? I dunno why he would suggest that because selling a tire is a quick 100 bucks. I kinda figured it made sense, thinking that bubbles may just happen from time to time but the ones that stick are the ones to worry about. But that could be me rationalizing what he said.
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Dec 28, 2010 01:26
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That bubble didn't just happen and then go away. What could have happened is the cords separated inside, blowing up the bubble. Then the bubble developed a leak on the outside, allowing the rubber to stretch back and seal. The damage is still there internally.
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Dec 28, 2010 01:38
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OneZeroSix posted:I woke up today and went outside to my SUV only to realize the bubble in my tire was gone now. So I went to the tire store and told the guy I had a bubble, but it had disappeared. He mentioned something about bubbles not usually disappearing like that so he came out and looked at it and told me I shouldn't need a new tire unless it comes back again. Just get a new tire. As said, the damage has been done and that tire is living on borrowed time.
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Dec 28, 2010 01:55
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Skyssx posted:That bubble didn't just happen and then go away. What could have happened is the cords separated inside, blowing up the bubble. Then the bubble developed a leak on the outside, allowing the rubber to stretch back and seal. The damage is still there internally. Probably something like that. I haven't seen it happen but if it's got a slow leak somewhere the reduction in internal pressure could let the bubble deflate. I'd bet it's a few pounds low now, and if you air it up the bubble returns. Def new tire time.
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Dec 28, 2010 04:54
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WTF is up with my power steering? I do have a small leak, but I keep it topped off. This morning it started whining and the serpentine belt would slip going around turns. The whine is nothing new, the pump has been noisy for awhile, but the belt slippage is new. I pulled into a parking lot and checked the PS fluid - the tank was full to the brim with foam. I poked my finger through the foam and there's plenty of fluid. Is the pump about to poo poo itself? Equally puzzling is the brake light on the dash came on (at about half brightness) when the belt started slipping and hasn't gone back off. Brake fluid is full, brakes feel fine, and I checked the parking brake switch, it's working fine. 99 Altima.
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Dec 28, 2010 11:32
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Epic Fail Guy posted:A friend of mine is interested in an '02 Pathfinder SE 4x4, 5-speed. Any glaring problems with these cars besides the obvious used car stuff? The VG33E's run on a timing belt. If this Pathfinder is at 80k miles or above (which it probably will be) make sure that gets changed out ASAP. Other than that, you've got an extremely solid drivetrain under those things. Can't speak for the interior though.
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Dec 28, 2010 12:24
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some texas redneck posted:WTF is up with my power steering? Pretty sure that model uses seperate p/s and alternator belts. If I'm wrong, and the alternator belt is slipping, you could get a brake light from low voltage on most Nissans. This does sound bad for your p/s pump though.
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Dec 28, 2010 13:41
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Belowaverage, it uses a single serpentine belt to drive the alternator, power steering pump, and water pump. Then a V belt for the a/c compressor. I believe 93-01 Altimas all use the same belt routing - at least, they all use the KA24DE engine. Anyway, went out there a little while ago. Started it with the parking brake off and the brake light was still lit. Shut it off, disconnected the battery, reconnected, and the brake light is no longer lit.  If the pump really is about to poo poo the bed, I really don't want to be the one replacing the pump.. it's a bitch to get to. It was bad enough changing the return hose on it.
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Dec 28, 2010 14:10
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Well shortly after that post I went to get breakfast. On my way back the serpentine belt decided to exit the vehicle, I was informed of this by losing the power steering while making a turn, followed by the alternator light coming on and the stereo turning off for a few seconds. Made it home without overheating, at least. Got a ride to Autozone to get a new belt. To put the new one on, I had to remove the a/c belt. Which.. well.. judging from the condition of it, I'd say there's a good chance the serpentine belt was equally as bad.. since the a/c belt has to be removed to change it. No sign of the old serpentine belt anywhere under the hood.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. May I take this moment to give a hearty gently caress YOU to the previous owner of this car? And the brake light popped back on as well, so at least now I know its previous appearance was related to the slipping belt. New belt doesn't slip at all. And changing belts when it's in the upper 30s and raining sucks. Oh yeah, my question. Will it hurt anything to leave off the plastic cover that separated the wheel well from the crank pulley? I have to get back under there at some point to put on a new a/c belt anyway... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Dec 28, 2010 |
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Dec 28, 2010 17:40
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99 Buick Park Ave Custom - 3100 Brake light is on in cold weather. Feels like the rear brakes are locking up. E brake is NOT on. What's going on?
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Dec 28, 2010 18:44
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Krakkles posted:Radar Detectors. I prefer the V1, because of the situational awareness it gives you. I know when I've passed a threat and can begin speeding again. With the Escort, you've got to wait until the radar alert is actually gone, because you don't fully know where it's coming from. Assuming it's the officer you just passed can be costly, as he might have his turned off and it's the officer over the hill that's actually running radar.
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Dec 28, 2010 22:59
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I took my 2005 honda civic sedan in for maintenance, and when doing alignment, the mechanics couldn't adjust the toe because the nut connecting the tie rods was seized up. He wanted to do something that would have costed 500 dollars (!) to fix. Should I get a second opinion on this? I bet there has to be a cheaper way to fix this.
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Dec 29, 2010 17:16
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some texas redneck posted:Oh yeah, my question. Will it hurt anything to leave off the plastic cover that separated the wheel well from the crank pulley? I have to get back under there at some point to put on a new a/c belt anyway... It shouldn't hurt for the short-term. I think it has 2 main jobs. One, to protect things like your accessories and whatnot from getting hit by rocks or other things that your car might fling up during driving; and two, it's part of the engineering for the air circulation for your engine bay. For a econobox, I'd be much more worried about that first part, but I've driven mine for a couple days with no problems with it off.
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Dec 29, 2010 20:28
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New stereo is here! Looks like it's going to be a stupidly simple install thanks to the special adapter you guys encouraged me to get. Not only does it keep the factory features like you said, but it provides a port for reverse/speed/parking brake so I don't have to splice any wires or anything. Just plug and play.
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Dec 29, 2010 21:22
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lollybo posted:I took my 2005 honda civic sedan in for maintenance, and when doing alignment, the mechanics couldn't adjust the toe because the nut connecting the tie rods was seized up. He wanted to do something that would have costed 500 dollars (!) to fix. Should I get a second opinion on this? I bet there has to be a cheaper way to fix this. Probably not. Also, 'costed' is not a word.
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Dec 30, 2010 00:24
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lollybo posted:I took my 2005 honda civic sedan in for maintenance, and when doing alignment, the mechanics couldn't adjust the toe because the nut connecting the tie rods was seized up. He wanted to do something that would have costed 500 dollars (!) to fix. Should I get a second opinion on this? I bet there has to be a cheaper way to fix this. He would probably just rather replace the parts than heat up the nut.
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Dec 30, 2010 01:26
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My steering column has been rattling lately while I drive. It's not like a super big rattle but it noticeably shakes. Is this something that I need to get fixed?
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Dec 30, 2010 02:01
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Peven Stan posted:My steering column has been rattling lately while I drive. It's not like a super big rattle but it noticeably shakes. Is this something that I need to get fixed? What vehicle? I've had rag joints fall apart on older cars.
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Dec 30, 2010 02:25
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lollybo posted:I took my 2005 honda civic sedan in for maintenance, and when doing alignment, the mechanics couldn't adjust the toe because the nut connecting the tie rods was seized up. He wanted to do something that would have costed 500 dollars (!) to fix. Should I get a second opinion on this? I bet there has to be a cheaper way to fix this. But you're getting poo poo from me for pretending that costed is a word.
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Dec 30, 2010 02:29
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lollybo posted:I took my 2005 honda civic sedan in for maintenance, and when doing alignment, the mechanics couldn't adjust the toe because the nut connecting the tie rods was seized up. He wanted to do something that would have costed 500 dollars (!) to fix. Should I get a second opinion on this? I bet there has to be a cheaper way to fix this. That said, einTier posted:
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Dec 30, 2010 03:20
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Trying to read up on my car knowledge lately, and some of the crazy sounds that high performance vehicles make have been interesting to me. I now at least partly understand BOV's, backfiring, anti-lag systems, etc., but I cannot figure out what is the "gurgling" sound some of these cars make when a driver gets off of the throttle. This isn't a great example, but listen for about 20 seconds. It doesn't sound like the sharp crack of a backfire to me, so what is it? I believe I have seen videos of NA cars making this sound too.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtXL7Ya6F_Q&t=1m59s
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Dec 30, 2010 05:44
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Can anyone tell me what to expect / help me understand the wiring of my new car stereo? I just don't know what the inside of the dash will look like or how to hook up the new system. I have wire crimpers and connectors that are apparently really good, but how/where do I use them? I also have this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127C2RFRD1/PAC-Ford-Radio-Replacement-Interface.html?tp=3486&id=detailed_info#Tab That has to fit in there somehow and I just don't get how everything fits together. I haven't taken anything apart yet because I work 9-5 and it gets pitch black here around 4 o'clock (no garage) so I'll probably be doing it Friday at lunch or something.
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Dec 30, 2010 05:51
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