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my integra now no longer has a distributor, plug wires, or much of a secondary ignition system at all! my left cam gear also has some funky magnets in it now, whatever will i do?
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Dec 20, 2010 17:46
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I broke it. Managed to slide into a kerb in the Focus, hit a patch of ice and couldn't really do anything to avoid it. It's damaged but drivable, looks like it is hopefully just the lower suspension arm, so it's at the garage and we're going to have a look tomorrow. loving snow.
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Dec 20, 2010 18:20
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Lean2 Memorial I was heading down the road, preparing to make a U-turn. I moved slightly to the right (never even touched the lane marker with my wheels), checked six, noticed a van about 50m back, tapped the brakes, and began my turn. I was well into the middle lane when said van suddenly appeared at my window like a hobo asking for a handout. He smacked me dead center of my door. We ended up well up over the curb, the van perpendicular to the street, rear tires resting on the curb and my car's rear bumper a good 6 feet from the curb, rotated a good 135 degrees. I got a rather nasty cut on the left of my face, and my doctor pulled a nice chunk of broken glass out of me. My leg is a bit sore where the van tried to come through the door, but otherwise the old girl took it like a champ and saved me a trip to the ER. This is why I love BMWs, and will get yet another. Pictures       Oil Pan Carnage  I also got charged with "Failure to yield to oncoming traffic when making a left turn". Yeah, I don't think so. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Dec 20, 2010 |
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Dec 20, 2010 19:30
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Tried and failed to install a radiator. Why is nothing ever easy? At this rate it'll probably end up roo bar mounted.
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Dec 21, 2010 01:47
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Changed the oil (Saturday), new trans filter, thermostat and no more stupid plow frame. Holy poo poo did changing the transmission filter make a huge difference. The truck is a rocket now (relative to how it was). It stopped slipping and struggling into the next gear. Amazing what a little maintainance can do. I also found that the "power heat valve" vacuum line was disconnected so that may have helped with the new found power also. Up next is fixing the headlight adjusters, new tag lights, tie-rods and fixing the drivers side door so it will close properly. I also ordered a y-pipe to start repairing the exhaust. If all that goes well the shocks are next, the ones in the back do not work at all and one is so rusted its falling apart. Fuel mileage is down to 4.8mpg last I checked because I had to let it warm up in the morning before the trans would work in the really cold temps we have had here. Hopefully that will go away and combined with how well the trans shifts now it will increase. Sticker had 12mpg around town and 15 on the highway when it was new.
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Dec 21, 2010 01:50
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Started taking the door covers off of my doors. Found out the drivers side door has a nice big crack in it. And finished putting the brakes back on.  Click here for the full 1762x1357 image. And stripped more rust off. Someday this car will be looking good again.  Click here for the full 1555x1200 image. And got new headlights.
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Dec 21, 2010 02:09
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Got started on the timing belt replacement on my 88 Accord. Took me awhile to find the timing marks before starting everything, and once I got that down, I ran into another problem. The Haynes manual says to remove the tensioner seal. I look at the diagram, not the location of the water pump and then look at my car. The only thing sticking out in that same location has to be the tensioner seal. Well, yes, and no. Turns out, my tensioner seal is AWOL, lost somewhere in the last 22 years of its life. What I spent the last 2 hours trying to remove is the tensioner bolt, which I'm now pretty drat sure just flat out doesn't come out.
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Dec 22, 2010 00:50
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So yeah, here's what I ended up doing. The arm is pretty much creased in the middle where I hit it, but it's all sorted now. Still not going to be using the car until the ice is cleared, I'm having much more fun on the quad bike. ...and then one of my dogs decided what I was doing was far more interesting than whatever it was she was doing and decided to get in the way.  
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Dec 22, 2010 19:07
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VolumeOverTalent posted:Play? play play play play play! I thought that control arm was for your GTI at first and wondered why the bushings were so much different than mine.
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Dec 22, 2010 21:29
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Started the baja bug and adjusted the idle. It's been sitting under the tarp for a few weeks since it doesn't have heat, and PA winters aren't warm. The idle was around 500, so I pulled it up to about 750 so it doesn't sound like it's going to stall. Also moved it back a couple of feet from its previous position in the alley, just so it gets to move at least a little this winter.
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Dec 22, 2010 22:26
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Got the headlights almost fixed today. What a lovely lovely design for the adjusting screws. I've bought 3 sets already and I have to buy some more again tomorrow because there is .000000000000000000001 of a millimeter between the plastic clip snapping into place and the ears breaking. I did get the seat cover fixed and some transmission cooling hoses fixed successfully though.
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Dec 22, 2010 23:31
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Looked at it in disdain. yesterday I continued on with the radiator fitment saga. One of the frame rails is bent and I can't proceed until I do something about it. Either stilsons or a scissor jack and crowbar should do it. I also ordered a weber carburettor adapter yesterday. So it will be a factory auto panelvan VW camper conversion with an early manual transmission transplant powered by a Subaru with a Ford carburettor, various mitsubishi bits and truck instrumentation. Just call me Dr. Frankenstein.
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Dec 23, 2010 00:20
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There was an annoying ticking noise. So I got a nice engineer to do this to it:  glad i didnt leave it much longer as there was only about 3/4" of metal left that was keeping it in one piece
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Dec 24, 2010 00:35
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Tomarse posted:There was an annoying ticking noise. What kind of vehicle is that from?
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Dec 24, 2010 00:51
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:What kind of vehicle is that from? A landrover with a Rover v8 (buick derived engine if you're in The US) in, but its an extra special lovely narrow limited production manifold made to fit in the narrow gap between the engine and the chassis rail as its a forward control and thus the engine sits in a funny place. The manifold is removed through an access panel behind the front wheel  
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Dec 24, 2010 01:50
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Changed the fuel filter, since the car was acting like it was starving at WOT. Turns out it was the original filter. From 1999. With 140k miles. To add to the fun, for whatever reason, Nissan uses a filter that's attached with hose clamps instead of clips, banjo bolts, or something that you expect to stand up to high pressure. The hoses were stuck on the filter and I couldn't get them off to save my life, I wound up cutting them. The filter now sits a few inches lower in the engine bay due to the shorter hoses.
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Dec 24, 2010 06:58
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A little PB Blaster and some dull jawed pliers will get any hose off, you just have to twist carefully. That and Nissan hose connections are awful.
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Dec 24, 2010 17:39
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I started rust treatment for the upcoming touch-up painting on my '94 XJ6.  
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Dec 24, 2010 17:45
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Francis Baconator posted:I started rust treatment for the upcoming touch-up painting on my '94 XJ6. Woah woah woah, I thought the end all of "rust treatment" on early 90s XJs was "Ordered a fiberglass body tub." 
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Dec 25, 2010 13:10
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Sponge! posted:Woah woah woah, I thought the end all of "rust treatment" on early 90s XJs was "Ordered a fiberglass body tub." Ah yes, the old Jeep approach. 
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Dec 25, 2010 15:15
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Sponge! posted:Woah woah woah, I thought the end all of "rust treatment" on early 90s XJs was "Ordered a fiberglass body tub." Sockington posted:Ah yes, the old Jeep approach.  The rust converter will have to do in the mean time.
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Dec 26, 2010 02:50
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Not today, but yesterday. Finally managed to get my timing belt changed. Took it to my uncle's huge-rear end garage and, armed with a few more sets of hands and a couple 1/2" impact extensions, we got her done. It was actually a lot more straightforward and simple than I thought it would be, just time consuming. From beginning to end, it only took us just under 5 hours, and that's including losing probably a half-hour trying to get the crank pulley off before I remembered that I had a pitman puller buried in my trunk, losing a half-hour trying to find the Woodruff key after I dropped it (it fell inside the lower timing cover) and maybe another half-hour in smoke breaks. I'm pretty sure I could do this job again in about 3 hours next time I need to do it. Kinda frightening taking my old timing belt off. You could see a bit of breaking between the teeth, and if you look close enough, you can see "Honda Manufacturing, Made in Japan" on the belt. I'm pretty sure this was the original timing belt being changed for the first time, 22 years and 150k miles later. Also my old tensioner pulley had so much wobble and grime in it that it probably would have seized up long before the belt went. zamin fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Dec 27, 2010 |
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Dec 27, 2010 18:35
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zamin posted:Not today, but yesterday. Finally managed to get my timing belt changed. Took it to my uncle's huge-rear end garage and, armed with a few more sets of hands and a couple 1/2" impact extensions, we got her done. It was actually a lot more straightforward and simple than I thought it would be, just time consuming. From beginning to end, it only took us just under 5 hours, and that's including losing probably a half-hour trying to get the crank pulley off before I remembered that I had a pitman puller buried in my trunk, losing a half-hour trying to find the Woodruff key after I dropped it (it fell inside the lower timing cover) and maybe another half-hour in smoke breaks. I'm pretty sure I could do this job again in about 3 hours next time I need to do it. Your new belt should say that too, if it doesn't plan on changing it between 50-60k to be safe. Did you do the water pump while you were in there? If not plan on changing the belt sooner than 50k when the pump weeps coolant all over your new belt. 
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Dec 27, 2010 18:47
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Sponge! posted:Your new belt should say that too, if it doesn't plan on changing it between 50-60k to be safe. I plan on changing the belts every 50-60k from here on out, especially now that I know exactly what to do and how simple it really is. With how much I drive, that will put my next belt interval at sometime in 2016. And ya, I did the water pump, too. Kinda dumb not to when after you get the lower timing cover off, you undo 3 bolts and just put the new one on. My coolant is still disgusting. Even after using one of those "leave in for 8 hours of operation" flushes and spending 2 hours and 30 gal of water trying to flush it out a few months back.
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Dec 27, 2010 19:19
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Baby Hitler posted:A little PB Blaster and some dull jawed pliers will get any hose off, you just have to twist carefully. The ones they used on the fuel lines actually aren't bad at all, but I agree on all of the others. For today's fun... new serpentine belt, master power window switch, new clamp for the negative battery cable. I'm now on my 4th power window switch since August. The manager at AutoZone swears up and down something is hosed up with my windows - every single switch has had the 1 touch down function work when it felt like it, usually rolling the window down halfway. The FSM says the 1 touch down circuitry is inside the switch. The new switch's one touch down doesn't work at all and the power lock switch on it doesn't work either, but they wouldn't let me have the old switch back.  The original switch's one touch down worked great, the only reason I had to replace it is I managed to break off the connector.. (disconnect BEFORE removing door panel)When I put on the new belt, I took off the a/c belt.. and discovered a very faded Nissan logo. Oh hello 11+ year old belt, the serpentine belt that broke this morning was probably just as old. Also discovered my front main seal is leaking. 
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Dec 28, 2010 18:02
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some texas redneck posted:I'm now on my 4th power window switch since August. The manager at AutoZone swears up and down something is hosed up with my windows - every single switch has had the 1 touch down function work when it felt like it, usually rolling the window down halfway. The FSM says the 1 touch down circuitry is inside the switch. The new switch's one touch down doesn't work at all and the power lock switch on it doesn't work either, but they wouldn't let me have the old switch back. This might help.. the someone in my Mercedes forums has their one touch mess up about once a month, and the fix in Mercedes is to roll the window all the way up and hold it up for 10 seconds, then roll the window all the way down and hold it down for 10 seconds. This basically resets the mechanism and retrains it where the up and down positions are.. maybe it will work for you as well?
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Dec 28, 2010 18:13
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Unfortunately no - this car is pretty basic when it comes to electronics. I mean, it IS an entry level 90s Nissan. From the factory service manual:  Schematic:  Click here for the full 782x758 image.
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Dec 28, 2010 18:49
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some texas redneck posted:Unfortunately no - this car is pretty basic when it comes to electronics. I mean, it IS an entry level 90s Nissan. To be fair; if the passenger side window works using the passenger's switch and not the driver's switch, what would you assume was wrong?
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Dec 28, 2010 20:59
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Just finished a transmission fluid change on my RDX. The problem however lies in the fact that my dealer sold me the wrong sized crush washer for the drain plug so I'm still using the old one right now. I'm hoping I can guilt them into giving me the 3.5 qts of tranny fluid that I'm going to have to waste on yet another drain and fill so I can put a new washer on.
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Jan 3, 2011 00:12
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Spent the 1st hung over and having to replace... Click here for the full 720x431 image.
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Jan 3, 2011 04:48
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Kicked it... while wearing steel toes. Now the passenger door opens again!    Click here for the full 640x480 image.
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Jan 3, 2011 06:18
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I made some door cards out of Corex posterboard stuff for the Golf, just to tidy everything up a little bit inside. It was cool to be able to see the windows going down into the doors for a bit, but the novelty has worn off. And the cost? Absolutely poo poo all, meaning the entire budget of my little track rat is still about £500. Awesome.
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Jan 5, 2011 12:34
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Beach Bum posted:So just how did you manage that? Slid off the highway (was driving at like 45 mph). It was all clean, then I hit a patch of black ice and ended up in a ditch, while doing a 180º spin. Managed to gently caress up my bumper, radiator, traction control and temp sensor. Also the doors wouldn't open because of the snow, had to climb out through the window. I have concluded that RWD+winter=bad combo, or I'm a lovely driver, which is more likely. quote:He parked on the street, plow plowed him in. Been there done that. I wish.
awesome-express fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 16:32
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awesome-express posted:Slid off the highway (was driving at like 45 mph). It was all clean, then I hit a patch of black ice and ended up in a ditch, while doing a 180º spin. Managed to gently caress up my bumper, radiator, traction control and temp sensor. Also the doors wouldn't open because of the snow, had to climb out through the window. I have concluded that RWD+winter=bad combo, or I'm a lovely driver, which is more likely. Snow sucks, and we all make mistakes in our cars. I've lost one to dumb mistakes myself. What's frustrating is losing the other two because someone ELSE hosed up.
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Jan 5, 2011 21:18
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rockcity posted:Just finished a transmission fluid change on my RDX. The problem however lies in the fact that my dealer sold me the wrong sized crush washer for the drain plug so I'm still using the old one right now. I'm hoping I can guilt them into giving me the 3.5 qts of tranny fluid that I'm going to have to waste on yet another drain and fill so I can put a new washer on. It's not blood or something, you can drain it and put it back in. You probably only changed like 1/5th of the fluid anyways. E: VVV poo poo or just cap it with your finger while you toss a new one on with the other hand. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jan 7, 2011 |
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Jan 6, 2011 07:05
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Lowclock posted:It's not blood or something, you can drain it and put it back in. You probably only changed like 1/5th of the fluid anyways. Use the shopvac trick. Or just drain it into a CLEAN container and put it back in.
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Jan 7, 2011 03:40
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New front pads + rotor resurfacing...Hurray for car related expenses I guess!
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Jan 7, 2011 04:12
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Went to the junkyard to look for random parts for my Civic. Found 2 only slightly used hatchback lift shocks, a dead pedal, 2 slightly worn door panels, and a throttle body pulley so my new manual throttle cable will work as the car has been converted from auto to manual. I see another civic (manual tranny) with the dash removed and easy access to a gas pedal. I figure I wouldn't need it. I go home and put everything on the car. When I install the new throttle cable I find the cable doesn't fit on my auto gas pedal.....hindsight is 20/20.
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Jan 7, 2011 06:01
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The mounting button for the rear-view mirror on my 96 XJ fell off the windshield, so I re-affixed it with superglue/accelerant. Worked like a charm. It was oddly peaceful driving with no headlights or other cars in my rear view, however.
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Jan 7, 2011 15:41
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I built a bench to put the junk from my junk on in my attempts to make them less junky.
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Jan 7, 2011 16:19
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