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MasterSlowPoke
Oct 9, 2005

Our courage will pull us through
It's best to seal it but at worst it'll just take a bit more paint.

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ChewyLSB
Jan 13, 2008

Destroy the core

Ashcans posted:

Tons of BBs are steel plated with copper or zinc. I have a box around here somewhere that are copper, and I dropped a couple into paintpots before anyone warned me about possibly messing up my paints. So far nothing dire has occurred, but I'm not sure I would recommend it. Use pewter, who in this hobby doesn't have some scrap laying around anyway?

... are metal models made of Pewter? I guess that's why you said you should have Pewter scraps laying about.

Should I drain the water thats already in the paint can, then add clean water, and then add pewter scraps? How many scraps should I be looking to add?

Again, sorry for the dumb questions. :ohdear: I was actually pissed off enough that the stupid Menoth base color set didn't come with Rhulic Gold, and then the one I bought from my LGS was all hosed up...

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Chewy, don't dump the water, that's the medium the paint is made of, it's got other things in there to help with flow, drying time, etc.

As for size, you want something that will bounce around inside the paint bottle to agitate the solids and force them back into suspension. Too big and they won't move around enough, too small and they will just stick to the solids. You'll have a pretty wide margin, so just eyeball it.

ChewyLSB
Jan 13, 2008

Destroy the core
I see. I guess its not a super big deal if I gently caress it up, not too bad to get another paint can.

Anyways, this is the progress I've made on my first model so far.


Click here for the full 1000x561 image.


edit: Whoops thumblinked that sumbitch.

The white is a lot more yellow than I thought it would be, but I guess maybe that might change when I add highlighting? I haven't done any of the Silver or Gold parts yet, because I'm missing the gold color obviously still. I haven't really painted anything on the back yet because I can't find any images of the Warjack from the back and I'm terribly uncreative.

I don't know how people can get their models so "clean" in the sense that the colors don't bleed over into each other. Getting the Cross without getting black to bleed onto the other areas was a huge pain in the rear end, not because the paint was to runny or whatever but just because it was hard to get the brush to "stop" at the exact area. I dunno if I'm doing something wrong.

But this is what it looks like after two base coats. Once I get gold I can do the rest, I suppose.

EDIT x2: I uploaded this to highlight what I was talking about. I just have no idea how to avoid stuff like this.


Click here for the full 1000x561 image.


And its not shown in this picture but I'm not sure how you're supposed to paint in "recesses" without loving up other areas. I guess you're supposed to do those areas first.

ChewyLSB fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Jan 6, 2011

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer
You're doing good for just starting out. It just takes practice. For now, chillax and just paint cool models e'rry day.

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
It's not that great painters don't make mistakes, it's that they go back and touch up however many times are required.

El Estrago Bonito
Dec 17, 2010

Scout Finch Bitch

ChewyLSB posted:

I see. I guess its not a super big deal if I gently caress it up, not too bad to get another paint can.

Anyways, this is the progress I've made on my first model so far.


Click here for the full 1000x561 image.


edit: Whoops thumblinked that sumbitch.

The white is a lot more yellow than I thought it would be, but I guess maybe that might change when I add highlighting? I haven't done any of the Silver or Gold parts yet, because I'm missing the gold color obviously still. I haven't really painted anything on the back yet because I can't find any images of the Warjack from the back and I'm terribly uncreative.

I don't know how people can get their models so "clean" in the sense that the colors don't bleed over into each other. Getting the Cross without getting black to bleed onto the other areas was a huge pain in the rear end, not because the paint was to runny or whatever but just because it was hard to get the brush to "stop" at the exact area. I dunno if I'm doing something wrong.

But this is what it looks like after two base coats. Once I get gold I can do the rest, I suppose.

EDIT x2: I uploaded this to highlight what I was talking about. I just have no idea how to avoid stuff like this.


Click here for the full 1000x561 image.


And its not shown in this picture but I'm not sure how you're supposed to paint in "recesses" without loving up other areas. I guess you're supposed to do those areas first.

What size brush are you using? I do all my fine detail work with a 5/0 or a 4/0. If you have GW brushed IIRC their fine detail brush is a 3/0.

You should also (standard painting advice these days it would seem) devlan mud that sucker something fierce. All your colors for that menoth scheme (with the possible exception of silver) are shaded with brown (sepia would also work but I don't use that much except for gold and asian skin). A wash will also help with blending the fine details and colors, and make things like the edging on the pads smoothly transition into the pads themselves.

Here's a quick example, note the shirt and the pants/boots for what I was talking about : http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/dWMSw8vqJhH4

ChewyLSB
Jan 13, 2008

Destroy the core

El Estrago Bonito posted:

What size brush are you using? I do all my fine detail work with a 5/0 or a 4/0. If you have GW brushed IIRC their fine detail brush is a 3/0.

You should also (standard painting advice these days it would seem) devlan mud that sucker something fierce. All your colors for that menoth scheme (with the possible exception of silver) are shaded with brown (sepia would also work but I don't use that much except for gold and asian skin). A wash will also help with blending the fine details and colors, and make things like the edging on the pads smoothly transition into the pads themselves.

Here's a quick example, note the shirt and the pants/boots for what I was talking about : http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/dWMSw8vqJhH4

The paint brush I've been using is a P3 brush and it just says "Small Drybrush"... and to be honesty I have no idea what those numbers mean haha. Sorry... still new.

Also, I tried that metal scraps thing (although I didn't add clean water because there's already a ton of water in there...) and I dunno if I didn't add enough scraps or what but I was shaking that sumbitch for like twenty minutes and it still stayed as a solid brick. I think it broke down a bit, but I tried breaking up some of the solid part with the back end of my brush. I don't really know if its working or not to be honest.

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken

El Estrago Bonito posted:

What size brush are you using? I do all my fine detail work with a 5/0 or a 4/0. If you have GW brushed IIRC their fine detail brush is a 3/0.

You should also (standard painting advice these days it would seem) devlan mud that sucker something fierce. All your colors for that menoth scheme (with the possible exception of silver) are shaded with brown (sepia would also work but I don't use that much except for gold and asian skin). A wash will also help with blending the fine details and colors, and make things like the edging on the pads smoothly transition into the pads themselves.

Here's a quick example, note the shirt and the pants/boots for what I was talking about : http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/dWMSw8vqJhH4

Brush sizes aren't constant across manufacturers anyway. A size 1 brush for one company isn't the same as a size 1 brush made by another company. That said, I don't like using my 3/0 Winsor & Newton brush because it's just too drat small. I prefer the size 1 W&N or the size 1 or size 2 Raphael 8404 brushes. Good brushes will hold their tips well and a larger brush size means you can actually hold paint on it instead of just dabbing it in your palette every two seconds.


Chewy: You might just have a bad batch of that metallic paint. It happens sometimes, but the P3 metallics are notorious for it. You have a few options: buy another pot of Rhulic Gold, buy a different brand (GW's metallics are highly regarded, but I have only ever used their silvers), or try to come up with a different way to do your golds. One method a lot of people here like is to paint your golds a silver color (do you have one of those?) and then give it a wash with either Devlan Mud or Gryphonne Sepia (both of those are GW washes).

Also, the "water" in these paints isn't really water. It's basically mixing medium that suspends the paint pigments. It's wet, and you can thin acrylics with water, but it isn't water itself.

ChewyLSB
Jan 13, 2008

Destroy the core
Fair enough, fair enough. Well I kinda wanted to stick to the guide that was in the back of the Menoth rule book, and that obviously all uses P3 paint names. I'll give it another shot I suppose, and if it doesn't work again then I'll look for a substitute.

What exactly do those numbers mean? I know you just said that its not consistent but it'd be nice to know if the brush I'm using is fine enough for what I'm trying to use it for.

And yeah I figured it wasn't water but I didn't really know what the gently caress to call it :ohdear:

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.
Brush numbering is an indicator of relative size within a manufacturing line. You can find information on the exact size that translates to on websites like dickblick.com (for fine art brushes), but honestly, the really important part of most brushes (ones intended for stippling and drybrushing being the exceptions) is how well they hold a point. All the recommendations for $8-$15 brushes we throw around are for brushes that, because of the fiber they're manufactured from (typically kolinsky sable hair, from a small russian weasel) and the way they're assembled (hand-built and glued) produce an excellent tip that holds up when loaded with paint and has good overall endurance. Their fiber/construction also result in them being better at holding paint than brushes made of other materials, which is why you hear people talk about doing most of their detail work with these (relatively) large brushes - it goes much faster when you don't have to go back to your palette all the time.

I personally do most of my stuff with a size 2 round Winsor Newton and have a 00 (also known as a 2/0) that I really only ever use for eyeballs and picking out really small details.

Gr3y
Jul 29, 2003
ChewyLSB: Looking good so far, especially for a first effort. A couple of things:

The first technique you need to develop is brush control. As you get better and better you'll develop a sense of where the paint is going as you put it on the model. When you see minis with nice clean lines it because who ever did the paint was able to get it exactly where they want.

Menoth white has a strong yellow bias. That's why the studio color scheme "pops", the white areas contrast nicely with red ones without looking garish. Pure white doesn't do that. If you have Menoth White Highlight you can try it on a spare spruce to see what I mean.

Your brush is probably the wrong shape for what you're trying to use. Dry brushes are usually broader and more squared off than usual brushes.

As for doing crevices, learn to use washes. They settle into those fine areas to provide color and change the tone of your base coat.

As far as doing the back of the back of your models, check to see if they've put in any little surprises you wouldn't expect to see from the front. If so, figure out how to accentuate them. If not, keep carrying the design cues for your scheme from the front to the back.

Acidix
Aug 8, 2007

Winner of the terrible contest
I tried my hand for the first time at airbrushing tonight. I think I need more practice. Couple of questions for anyone who has the knowhow to fix my technique.

1. Using a bottle fed brush, and it seems like I need a TON of paint in order to reach the bottom of the tube in the bottle. That seems like a waste of paint, and it led to some very inconsistent flow, and thus some odd pooling on certain surfaces of the model. Gravity fed brushes would alleviate this problem right?

2. I think i put some very fine bubbles in my paint/windex mix, because as i started painting a large surface, bubbles started appearing in the paint on the model, leading to some ugly patterns.

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.
A gravity feed brush would probably fix both of your issues, though the second one is something I'm not really familiar with coming from airbrushes.

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!

Acidix posted:

2. I think i put some very fine bubbles in my paint/windex mix, because as i started painting a large surface, bubbles started appearing in the paint on the model, leading to some ugly patterns.

You likely have too much Windex in your mix, or you may be letting too much air into the spray, which you can fix if your needle is adjustable. If not, it's probably too much Windex.

GravyMiser
Dec 24, 2003
This is a clip of Jérémie Bonamant Teboul from his DVD explaining how he does the zenith lighting for those interested. Actual spraying begins at around 4:00.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MP56VgJYwjY

Hermetic
Sep 7, 2007

by exmarx
Found one of these:

http://www.iwata-medea.com/index.php/products/neo_cn/

Cheap at the local Hobby Lobby. Is it a good brush? Or should I just go ahead and buy a Paasche Talon?

EDIT: If it makes any difference, I found out that the hose for the Neo CN is sold separately.

Hermetic fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Jan 6, 2011

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken

ChewyLSB posted:

Fair enough, fair enough. Well I kinda wanted to stick to the guide that was in the back of the Menoth rule book, and that obviously all uses P3 paint names. I'll give it another shot I suppose, and if it doesn't work again then I'll look for a substitute.

What exactly do those numbers mean? I know you just said that its not consistent but it'd be nice to know if the brush I'm using is fine enough for what I'm trying to use it for.

And yeah I figured it wasn't water but I didn't really know what the gently caress to call it :ohdear:

I meant to explain the numbers, but totally forgot to. Sorry! Luckily stabbington is on the ball. I do have an example of the sepia+silver=gold thing I mentioned, though: http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.com/2009/04/friday-quick-tip-sepia-gold.html I also did the brassy areas on this Deathripper the same way, but I used GW Boltgun Metal and GW Devlan Mud instead.

Are you using the gold painting guide in the back of the FoW: Menoth book or the back of the Warmachine Prime Mk2 book? The FoW book has a more complex formula while the Prime book is just Rhulic Gold, wash with Armor Wash, then highlight with Solid Gold. If the 5 step FoW guide using 7 colors is a bit much, you might want to give that (or the sepia+silver) a shot.

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!

Hermetic posted:

Found one of these:

http://www.iwata-medea.com/index.php/products/neo_cn/

Cheap at the local Hobby Lobby. Is it a good brush? Or should I just go ahead and buy a Paasche Talon?

EDIT: If it makes any difference, I found out that the hose for the Neo CN is sold separately.


Nah, that one looks pretty cool. Iwata is a pretty well-known and reputable brand, so it's not going to poo poo out on you. The hose is sold separately though? Might not be a problem if your compressor comes with the right hose you need.

Hermetic
Sep 7, 2007

by exmarx

Sole.Sushi posted:

Nah, that one looks pretty cool. Iwata is a pretty well-known and reputable brand, so it's not going to poo poo out on you. The hose is sold separately though? Might not be a problem if your compressor comes with the right hose you need.

Thanks, Sushi! I'll check the hose on the compressor when I buy it, and if it needs one, I'll buy/order it.

So what's a good primer for airbrushing? I've heard good things about Mr. Surfacer 1200, but I'd definitely have to special order it.


EDIT: The only jar primer I can find in the area is Testors Acryl Grey Primer. Anyone had good results with that?

Hermetic fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Jan 6, 2011

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!
I wouldn't trust Testors for much apart from their varnishes which are cans of pure awesome. Mr. Surfacer clearly makes awesome results, but there are other airbrush primers that you can use as well.

Gesso: thinning gesso (with windex, not sure of the ratio) is a viable option, though you may need to make a few passes for total coverage. Not to worry about that, though, since gesso shrinks a bit when it dries, hugging the details of your model like skin.
Vallejo Game Color Primer: Looks like paint, acts like paint, but it's a primer. Simply thin (again, with windex, 1:1 ratio), load in your airbrush, and go to town.

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~
So I've started my next commission, which is a squad of Sanguinary Guard, Mephiston, Dante, and the Sanguinor. Seeing how the Guard were already assembled and primed, I got to work on em! They're still WIP right now, but here's my progress so far:








The lighting at my folks' place sucks, but I'll take some pics with better lighting when I go back to my apartment in a couple days. For reference, the gold looks almost identical to the gold on these Chaos Terminators I painted:

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Sanguinary Guard Incoming:












Due to work stuff have been out of the game for a while now, actually started these in September. Just got 'em finished off this afternoon. I don't ever want to paint gold again.

Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 12:39 on May 21, 2014

enri
Dec 16, 2003

Hope you're having an amazing day

Right, let's get this out in the open... I'm one of those weirdos who bases and seals the basing material on models first, meaning they're generally the first thing to get painted post-undercoat.

Goons who do it the other way around (i.e. paint first, base afterwards) - can you give me a brief rundown of your process for basing post-paintjob?

I'm really itching to get started painting this killa kan I've got knocking about but don't want to wait for all my basing bits to seal... so I'm going to do it in reverse to the normal way I work.

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

enri posted:

Right, let's get this out in the open... I'm one of those weirdos who bases and seals the basing material on models first, meaning they're generally the first thing to get painted post-undercoat.

Goons who do it the other way around (i.e. paint first, base afterwards) - can you give me a brief rundown of your process for basing post-paintjob?

I'm really itching to get started painting this killa kan I've got knocking about but don't want to wait for all my basing bits to seal... so I'm going to do it in reverse to the normal way I work.

Build mini > glue to base > do basing > prime it all at once > paint it all at once

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer
I just do the base painting dead last. If I get some gray on my model when I'm drybrushing, it either doesn't show up (ork infantry), counts as weathering (vehicles) or is easy to touch up (everything else). Also it's easy to hide mistakes with judicious application of snow flock. (There's a reason I use it on drat near everything now.)

Edit holy poo poo how did I miss Skarsnik models? Fukken love your stuff, mang. :allears:

Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON

enri posted:

Right, let's get this out in the open... I'm one of those weirdos who bases and seals the basing material on models first, meaning they're generally the first thing to get painted post-undercoat.

Goons who do it the other way around (i.e. paint first, base afterwards) - can you give me a brief rundown of your process for basing post-paintjob?

I'm really itching to get started painting this killa kan I've got knocking about but don't want to wait for all my basing bits to seal... so I'm going to do it in reverse to the normal way I work.

Paint mini on clipstand > slide into slotta > paint glue around feet > sand dip > paint base > drybrush base > flock base/glue down rocks > paint rim.

Or: Paint mini on clipstand > smash tile with hammer > chisel slotta round > glue to round base > glue sand > paint > add shrubbery, glue model into base. :v:

WhiteWolf123
Jun 18, 2008

The man in black fled across the desert, and the gunslinger followed.
drat, Scarsnik. Those are some sweet sweet Sanguinary Guard! Nice job.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Joining in!


Click here for the full 800x600 image.



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Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON

^^^^^ Man, those are so damned fantastic. But you really gotta adjust your levels on your pics so they're not so dark.




serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Fix you own

TheCosmicMuffet
Jun 21, 2009

by Shine
Man, somebody left a perfectly good helmet in that field.

Is that why so many space marines don't have helmets?

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 60 days!
Hello goons! As many some one or two of you might remember, I used to be a frequent visitor and contributor to the painting-type threads here. Unfortunately I moved to NYC in May, and haven't had a lot of time or money to get back into the hobby (besides, I left all my stuff back in Michigan anyways). You know the usual sort of excuses: finances, tiny small apartment with no room for a proper painting station, trying to have an active social life, blah blah blah.

I have kept up with things in this thread and elsewhere, though, and was pleased to see that not only did the Blood Angels (my very first and still favorite SM army) got their own codex again, but all new figures as well. Seeing the new plastics of the Death Company and Sanguinary Guard on display here and elsewhere...well, let me just say that when I get the chance, I may just have to make a return to the sons of Sanguinius once more...

Excellent work in the thread, guys! Keep it up :cool:

E: found a couple of pics featuring the new DC and SG plastics on the Internet, as well.



Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jan 7, 2011

MasterSlowPoke
Oct 9, 2005

Our courage will pull us through
Bhyo, can you tell me how tall the Sanguinor figure is? I've been wondering for a while.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer
I just ordered a light box+lighting kit. I have offically gone off the deep end. :suicide:

Helios127
Nov 9, 2010

by T. Finn
I really enjoy painting my Orks. Compared to what I have seen here and other places, my paint-jobs are shoddy but a descent enough start. I would post pictures for you guys to comment on what needs working, but I cant get a camera to focus right.

A few questions though, what is generally used to glue figures? I right now just have the assault on black reach kit and even though the parts are easily snap-on, I happened to break an axe or two while punching the parts out, plus a few of the space marines bolter rifles wont fit on them for whatever reason. Besides, for more advanced kits its good that I get in the habit of glueing.

For non-official paints, what is recommended? I have a ton of acrylics which seem to work very well, as well as tempera which gives off an interesting fuzzy look to it. Finally is there anything usually done to keep a figure in place without holding it so I don't get black paint all over my hand when I try to coat it?

The good thing with Orks and their equipment is that if it looks dented and rustic, your doing something right.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

MasterSlowPoke posted:

Bhyo, can you tell me how tall the Sanguinor figure is? I've been wondering for a while.

2 and a half inches max from the bottom of the scrolls to the Halo. He's smaller than the Sanguine Guard in both height and bulk.

I finished something else today. Been working on it for about a week and a half. Pic dump incoming because I am v.proud of it.


Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.



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Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Bhyo posted:



Mr Anus here totally rules, love the gold. How did you do the power weapons?

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Theres a J before the A! I've made it a bit more distinguishable since that photo was done.

Regal Blue, Hawk Turqoise and Bleached bone. Add some skull white for the final highlights.

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theironjef
Aug 11, 2009

The archmage of unexpected stinks.

Anyone have tips on how to wash large surfaces without getting that topographic map drying circles effect?

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