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theironjef posted:Anyone have tips on how to wash large surfaces without getting that topographic map drying circles effect? This this this oh God this 
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Jan 8, 2011 12:24
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 10:22 |
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Normally I'd say avoid it at all cost, since washes are meant for textured surfaces anyway, but you know that already. But if I'd have to use washes on flat surfaces it would be with colours that arent too bright and I would keep brushing away any circle build-ups before it dries. But I think vallejos inks would work better for this purpose.
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Jan 8, 2011 16:11
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Add some mixing medium to the wash before applying. P3 makes a good one.
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Jan 8, 2011 16:49
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magnetbox posted:Add some mixing medium to the wash before applying. P3 makes a good one. P3 "mixing medium" is just really overpriced Matte Medium. Just get Liquitex Matte Medium and mix a bit in with your washes. Also Flow Aid/Improver. Just a little bit will go a long way. They are great for evening out your washes/inks/solutions.
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Jan 8, 2011 17:28
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Buffalo squeeze posted:Normally I'd say avoid it at all cost, since washes are meant for textured surfaces anyway, but you know that already. But if I'd have to use washes on flat surfaces it would be with colours that arent too bright and I would keep brushing away any circle build-ups before it dries. But I think vallejos inks would work better for this purpose. Yep, normally I would. I saw a shot of a guy's Eldar superheavy a while back that was done in brushed metal with an awesome subdued blue wash that settled in the curve-created recesses of the vehicle, and I thought I could try and pull that off for my Raiders.
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Jan 8, 2011 21:42
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On metal paint and DE raiders I think washes will work just fine with some controlled application.
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Jan 8, 2011 21:59
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theironjef posted:Anyone have tips on how to wash large surfaces without getting that topographic map drying circles effect? Not sure I understand what you mean by wash on a large surface, but I have a neat and pretty easy way to get sweet gradients on flat surfaces. That's how I made this guy:  Bascially, I got a solid basecoat of Menoth White Base, then gave it a wash of really thin Bloodstone (a reddish brown, diluted with nothing but tap water). I then thinned Battlefield Brown (Dark Brown, but not as dark as burnt umber) to the same level and stared painting in the direction of the parts I wanted to have a shade. I mean, starting at the top and physically pushing the thinned paint towards where I wanted shadows and letting it dry before I did the next layer. After a while I switched to Bloodstone for the midtones and afterwards did the same thing with the base coat color towards the highlights and then going back and forth between them until I got a decent blending. Finally I gave everything a thin wash of Bloodstone to tie it together and highlighted the extreme parts with Menoth White Highlight. It might sound tedious but because you're using thin paints it dries really quickly and since each layer adds just a little bit of pigment it's a forgiving technique and easy to correct mistakes.
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Jan 8, 2011 23:30
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Those of you that dip - do you still need to varnish the figure to seal it? Been using Mnwax Wood Stain specifically
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Jan 9, 2011 06:02
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Mortanis posted:Those of you that dip - do you still need to varnish the figure to seal it? Been using Mnwax Wood Stain specifically Depends on the dip, but most that use a floor stain or use Army Builder's brand, yes, the dip CAN be considered to varnish the paintjob. A quick coat of Dullcote or Matte sealant wouldn't hurt to tone down the shine, though.
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Jan 9, 2011 06:50
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I just played around with dipping for the units I did for last months oath. Yeah, minwax seals the hell out them. I could probably plink away at those guys with a BB gun and not damage the paint. A few blasts of dull coat (I use the Testors stuff) killed the shine on the Trenchers I did. The Bile Thralls didn't get dulled because I want them to look kind of slick and wet. Despite the paint job not being very good I'm pretty happy overall with how they turned out. Especially since I did exactly no shading on them.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Which flavor of Minwax are you using? I used the Polyshades Clasic Oak Satin on these guys and thought it did a decent job. I might switch to a darker stain for the next unit I do.
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Jan 9, 2011 07:04
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Polyshade Antique Walnut Satin is my go-to dip, but I haven't dipped in forever. I might dip Skaven if I end up picking them for Fantasy.
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Jan 9, 2011 07:18
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While browsing around Warseer, I found what I thought was a very awesome BA Sanguinary Priest. I'm totally ripping this off when I start up a BA army.  
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Jan 9, 2011 07:56
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Hey, if you can do it at the same level as you did your Crimson Fists, I'm all for it.
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Jan 9, 2011 08:02
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Fix posted:Hey, if you can do it at the same level as you did your Crimson Fists, I'm all for it.  Many thanks! It'll be a while before I can tackle it; when I moved I left all my stuff back in Michigan, so I'd need to basically start from scratch. Even if I went back and got all my stuff, at the moment I don't have the room for storing supplies I originally did. But I don't mind, I can always pick up just the painting/modeling stuff I need first and expand as I go. Hopefully more towards spring 2011 I'll be able to post some pics of my own stuff. In the meantime, here's an assault marine from the same guy off Warseer (as you can tell, I'm finding his work quite inspirational). 
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Jan 9, 2011 08:30
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Since the GW black primer spraycan is basically just Chaos Black paint would shooting Chaos Black through an airbrush be adequate for a primer?
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Jan 9, 2011 15:13
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Holy poo poo its grandpa pap 
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Jan 9, 2011 16:52
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holy crap     and a thousand more images
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Jan 9, 2011 20:04
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Those look so cool. Jesus.
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Jan 9, 2011 20:19
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They are now anime. It's like watching Evangelion, only less bizarre.
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Jan 9, 2011 20:21
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Looks like Borderlands to me.
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Jan 9, 2011 20:22
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PaintVagrant posted:Holy poo poo its grandpa pap 'sup bro  I was going thru some of my pics of previous minis I've painted, and found this Bretonnian Sorceress that I thought I did a pretty nifty job on.  
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Jan 9, 2011 20:31
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ghetto wormhole posted:Looks like Borderlands to me. Badass Corrosive Carnifex
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Jan 10, 2011 00:43
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I've just finished up on a couple of Dire Trolls for my WarmaHordes army, they're the first big models i've painted and the first time i've really tried experimenting with drybrushing. Personally i'm fairly happy with how the dry brushing turned out on the rocks and i'm very pleased with the mauler's gums.     
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Jan 10, 2011 02:48
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yum posted:Since the GW black primer spraycan is basically just Chaos Black paint would shooting Chaos Black through an airbrush be adequate for a primer? No. Spraycan Chaos Black is a spray on primer, pot Chaos Black is an acrylic paint. Same name, totally different paints. If you're in the UK, go with Halfords Matt Black Spray.
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Jan 10, 2011 03:17
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Crosspostin' from the Oath thread: I got a Valkyrie for Christmas and I couldn't help but paint it up ASAP! I decided to assemble mine without door gunners, and with missile pods. Anyway, here we go:      Base detail - gotta shake off that grass!  And the pilots and cockpit before I glued it down:    Now to work on that terrain, Sanguinary Guard, Leman Russ, Iron Warriors...
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Jan 10, 2011 03:40
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I did the same thing last Christmas. Took me the whole month of January to do it. Really gave it my all. Here's it now: 
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Jan 10, 2011 05:43
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Aw man, that sucks  What happened to it?I also tried running it without gluing the wings on, but they kept falling off like nobody's business. They're glued on and I have a large cardboard box for it.
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Jan 10, 2011 06:36
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I'm guessing it took a dive off of a table?
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Jan 10, 2011 06:37
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I got a Chaos Terminator lord kit for Christmas from MY GIRLFRIEND and I'm super happy with how he came out:    
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Jan 10, 2011 07:20
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SRM posted:Aw man, that sucks Back in March or April, two new players were in the store, so I was helping them out by walking them through their game. I sat my stuff down at the end of the room - everything in their cases except for the Valk, as it's too big for anything (I drove to the store with one hand on the flightstick, good thing I have an automatic). A dude was painting on that table, but I assumed it'd be fine. As I'm explaining cover saves or whatever, we hear an odd noise. We look over at the back table just in time to see a poorly cut flouresent light cover fall out of the light fixture above. One of these:  It floats down, that pointy end there aimed squarely at the Valk. A direct hit, sending it off the table. Luckily I used super glue, so it's fixable.
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Jan 10, 2011 07:43
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How come all the various paintain guides I see call for base, wash, THEN highlight? Since the wash kinda tints everything, wouldn't it make more sense to base, highlight, and then wash to both provide depth and tie everything together? That's how I've always done it (and when I say always I mean when I paint twice per year)
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Jan 10, 2011 07:48
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Doing highlights at the end lets them be brighter. Washing at the end is called "juicing" and is usually done with thinned wash.
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Jan 10, 2011 07:55
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The way I've had it explained to me is that because the wash changes the tint of anything you put it on, you can then go back and highlight with the original base color. It's supposed to give you a more natural look as the original color is now distinct enough from the tinted base coat to pop, but not so different as to look jarring. MasterSlowPoke: God doesn't want you to have that Valk. Do not tempt his wrath, as he is an angry god, capable of much worse.
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Jan 10, 2011 07:56
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Back in March or April, two new players were in the store, so I was helping them out by walking them through their game. I sat my stuff down at the end of the room - everything in their cases except for the Valk, as it's too big for anything (I drove to the store with one hand on the flightstick, good thing I have an automatic). A dude was painting on that table, but I assumed it'd be fine. That's so much more improbable an answer than I was expecting.
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Jan 10, 2011 08:00
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Good fake out. Totally expected some idiot warbeard to have caused the damage somehow. Did the store compensate you in any way for the damage?
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Jan 10, 2011 08:07
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Yeah, he gave me a new Valk in case I couldn't salvage this one. I'll probably build them up when I'm done with all these terrain shenanigans.
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Jan 10, 2011 08:20
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Stories of models getting broken make me cringe. More so when it's something bizarre like that.
Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 11:29 on Jan 10, 2011 |
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Jan 10, 2011 11:27
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Stories of models getting broken make me cringe. More so when it's something bizarre like that. I stood on a custom Fist I made out of the limited ed Space Marine Sarge in the busted aquila, Azraels gun, captains cloak with green stuff (which shattered apart) and Pedro Kantors banner. It was my crowning achievement and I painted it really well and it just hurts too much to look at for me to try and put it back together and fix the paint.
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Jan 10, 2011 11:46
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Finally got around to taking decent pictures of the figure I converted for a Deathwatch tabletop game. The paint job is a bit rubbish but I'm more pleased with the conversion, he turned out exactly how I wanted.  Unpainted:  EDIT: The top picture makes one of his eyes look hosed up, but it's just the shadow.
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Jan 10, 2011 14:04
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 10:22 |
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Don't down yourself on the paintjob, it looks pretty drat good.
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Jan 10, 2011 17:03
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