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Moostang posted:
Nice ride. Sorry about the fender flares. 
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Jan 15, 2011 23:08
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1 month after i got my pony, I think it needs a new clutch. It (suddenly, which is what surprises me) got very sluggish to accelerate in the low gears. I guess the PO abused the gently caress out of it and my 2 clutch drops probably finished the job :/. Anyone know what kind of $$ I'm looking at here?
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Jan 16, 2011 04:45
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shodanjr_gr posted:1 month after i got my pony, I think it needs a new clutch. It (suddenly, which is what surprises me) got very sluggish to accelerate in the low gears. I guess the PO abused the gently caress out of it and my 2 clutch drops probably finished the job :/. Are you for sure getting slip on the clutch?
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Jan 16, 2011 05:16
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kimbo305 posted:Are you for sure getting slip on the clutch? I can rev up the engine without getting nowhere near the acceleration that I was getting when I got the car. I am taking it to the dealer Monday to get it checked out but I wouldn't mind entertaining other, less expensive problems. What else could it potentially be?
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Jan 16, 2011 05:18
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Get a real transmission in that thing and you can launch all day long (and spin like hell on an unprepared track) and not worry about your transmission failing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2l5RiSNrEqc
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Jan 16, 2011 06:27
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This isn't meant to support Phil or anything, but recently I checked out a guy's single turboed Cobra. His motor: He said he was having trouble getting into the 10s with a manual, so he upgraded to whatever auto tranny does the job for you. But mostly just a motor pic.
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Jan 16, 2011 06:58
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kimbo305 posted:This isn't meant to support Phil or anything, but recently I checked out a guy's single turboed Cobra. His motor: Has he replaced the hotside with something decent yet? Hellion makes a great kit, but their hotside sucks cocks once you hit the 10 second zone; a feat that happens very quickly on a turbo car.
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Jan 16, 2011 07:03
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frozenphil posted:Has he replaced the hotside with something decent yet? Hellion makes a great kit, but their hotside sucks cocks once you hit the 10 second zone; a feat that happens very quickly on a turbo car. That was his setup as of 1 day ago, so I guess not. I guess I'll mention it to him. What is it that he has there now?
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Jan 16, 2011 07:04
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kimbo305 posted:That was his setup as of 1 day ago, so I guess not. I guess I'll mention it to him. What is it that he has there now? I'm not sure what you mean. I can see he has the Hellion turbo kit, but it's impossible to see the hotside of a turbo kit on these cars. If he's still running the hotside that came with the kit then he's going to run into boost creep and just generally be down on power over what he would have with a properly designed hotside. The Hellion hotside puts the wastegate in a retarded position and has some really weird bend choices. It's a great kit in stock form if you don't plan on making over 550hp or so. Here's what the Hellion kit's hotside looks like on the New Edge cars: 
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Jan 16, 2011 17:14
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I'm looking at a 2011 GT Premium. Two questions: 1. Am I looking to make much of an acceleration improvement or fuel milage loss by option for one of the option rear axle? 2. I like the idea of the Brembo brakes and the wheels look great. Am I going to kill my wallet replacing those tires? Are they going to be much more expensive than tires for the California package or stock wheels?
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Jan 21, 2011 02:01
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BDawg posted:I'm looking at a 2011 GT Premium. Two questions: I have an 11 GT with both the 3.73 and Brembo pkg. 1. I think most agree the 3.73 is the best way to go. Offers the best acceleration and not much mpg penalty. I avg 18.4 mpg driving like I stole it and mostly city. 2. $ 1,700 for the Brembo pkg is worth it, especially if you will track car. Tires are expensive, although some people are replacing with cheaper alternatives (already?!?!). I think the last time I saw the Pirelli's they were $ 400 each but they are probably cheaper now. Sorry, but IDK what the other tires cost. You can check on tirerack.com
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Jan 21, 2011 02:44
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Radiohead71 posted:I have an 11 GT with both the 3.73 and Brembo pkg. Isn't the 3.73 overkill for a car that I plan to mainly use for daily driving? The Brembo may be as well, but it at least comes with better brakes and sweet wheels.
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Jan 21, 2011 02:50
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BDawg posted:Isn't the 3.73 overkill for a car that I plan to mainly use for daily driving? The Brembo may be as well, but it at least comes with better brakes and sweet wheels. 3.73 is a pretty mild rear axle really, especially with the 6-speed. In normal driving you won't need to rev above 2500rpm or so, and on the highway at 75 you'll only be turning about 1750rpm. It's a great combination of performance and livability.
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Jan 21, 2011 03:06
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Radiohead71 posted:I have an 11 GT with both the 3.73 and Brembo pkg. 1. agreed. youre basically retarded if you buy a 2011 gt with anything but 3.73 ratio. 2. If i was buying a 2011 gt right now and didnt live next to a race track i would ditch the brembos, get stock wheel package, and immediately replace them with RTR wheels and some Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110 tires. If i did live next to a race track i would have to think about the fact that my tires would evaporate on the track... costing me $300-400 everytime i go there purely in tire wear.
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Jan 21, 2011 03:28
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Omegaslast posted:1. agreed. youre basically retarded if you buy a 2011 gt with anything but 3.73 ratio. I got the 3.55's and I'm not retarded. I have my reasons but after driving all 3, the difference in acceleration is imperceptible and 3.55 felt like a good compromise. 99.9% of this cars life will be on the street and it's impossible to hookup already on the 3.55s as is. The 3.73s are fine too. Also, those RTR wheels are nearly triple the cost of checking the 19 inch wheel box at the dealership and you won't get the strut tower brace. Plus gray wheels look lovely on the best color(Kona Blue). Also keep in mind that the Brembo brake package includes summer only tires, something to remember in January. You'll also need to keep in mind that the Brembo brakes require more clearance so aftermarket wheel choices become more limited. If you like the wheels it's worth it because it's not a lot more than the premium wheels anyway. Just about the *ONLY* reason to get brembos is if you go to the track. There's no extra stopping power they'll just resist fade a lot more than the stock brakes. If you're talking about tracking the car and trading in the brembo package for expensive wheels and hilariously specific tires, you already sound clueless. Imperador do Brasil posted:3.73 is a pretty mild rear axle really, especially with the 6-speed. In normal driving you won't need to rev above 2500rpm or so, and on the highway at 75 you'll only be turning about 1750rpm. It's a great combination of performance and livability. You drive a 550 horsepower supercharged shelby, nothing on your car is mild. Also how did you get to that calculation. Maybe the shelby has a much deeper 6th but on my GT the motor will be spinning a lot faster than that at 75. If it weren't snowing in New England I'd go verify it myself 
kronix fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Jan 21, 2011 |
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Jan 21, 2011 12:38
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kronix posted:Plus gray wheels look lovely on the best color(Grabber Blue). Fixed your pretty blatant typo.
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Jan 21, 2011 13:47
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Pudgygiant posted:Fixed your pretty blatant typo. Ugh... I don't like the light blue. The Kona Blue is definitely nice as is the Candy Apple Red. The web configurator has a yellow color that's not in the dealer brochure. Is that a legit color? And I swore I'd never get another metallic paint car...
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Jan 21, 2011 14:51
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kronix posted:You drive a 550 horsepower supercharged shelby, nothing on your car is mild. Also how did you get to that calculation. Maybe the shelby has a much deeper 6th but on my GT the motor will be spinning a lot faster than that at 75. If it weren't snowing in New England I'd go verify it myself I got to that calculation by driving 75mph. In "every-day" driving, I rarely get above 2500rpm, and I've never been above 2000rpm on the highway in 6th gear. I would have imagined that the standard GT would have a similar 6th gear. 3.73's are not extreme by any measure. All my RX-7's had 4.10 rear ends, and even that wasn't bad.
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Jan 21, 2011 15:56
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Imperador do Brasil posted:3.73 is a pretty mild rear axle really, especially with the 6-speed. In normal driving you won't need to rev above 2500rpm or so, and on the highway at 75 you'll only be turning about 1750rpm. It's a great combination of performance and livability. The GT500 has a .5 6th gear, the GT has a .65 ratio in 6th. Even still, 75mph in the GT with 3.73 gears is something like 2250 RPM. BDawg posted:The web configurator has a yellow color that's not in the dealer brochure. Is that a legit color? Yes, it's a 2012 color called Yellow Blaze. It's the color of the original show car. 
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Jan 21, 2011 17:33
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frozenphil posted:The GT500 has a .5 6th gear, the GT has a .65 ratio in 6th. Even still, 75mph in the GT with 3.73 gears is something like 2250 RPM. Does that mean it's not going to be available until August/September or was it a mid-year possibility?
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Jan 21, 2011 20:17
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BDawg posted:Ugh... I don't like the light blue. The Kona Blue is definitely nice as is the Candy Apple Red. Blaze Yellow Metallic, it's a legit color. Same yellow that's available on the top trim Fiestas.
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Jan 21, 2011 21:16
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Jan 28, 2011 01:08
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So they routed an outlet from the AC into the intake??!? I do find amusement with the arrows on parts, like the strut tower bar - that way any idiot could assemble it.
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Jan 28, 2011 01:19
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That small pipe is the sound tube, isn't it?
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Jan 28, 2011 01:38
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kimbo305 posted:That small pipe is the sound tube, isn't it? Correct. The intake is supposed to be worth a good bit of power up top with a custom tune. Street price looks to be $550, which is a pretty drat good deal. I've heard rumors of the supercharged guys bumping nearly 50rwhp with just the intake swap.
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Jan 28, 2011 02:59
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Is that the same strut tower brace as the V6? On another note, I'd really like it to stop snowing so the roads aren't salty and sandy so I can go out and play with my Mustang
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Jan 28, 2011 14:01
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kronix posted:Is that the same strut tower brace as the V6? This x1000. Since I got mine, the weather decided to go guiness-book-of-records on our asses here in NY and it's been snowing like hell.
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Jan 28, 2011 16:03
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kronix posted:Is that the same strut tower brace as the V6? Seems to be that way. Some of the shops are waiting to get their hands on one so they can compare directly. It's definitely different than the strut tower brace on the '11 GTs, but it appears to be the same as the '10 GTs and all the v6es. Also, VMP went 10.3x with the only mods being the Roush TVS twin screw blower, a tune, and drag radials. Ridiculous.
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Jan 28, 2011 18:22
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Weird, how does the V6 need more clearance than the 5.0?
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Jan 28, 2011 18:26
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kimbo305 posted:Weird, how does the V6 need more clearance than the 5.0? The intake is really tall. 
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Jan 28, 2011 18:28
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I've heard that strut tower braces don't do much on S197 anyway, is that true?
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Jan 28, 2011 21:17
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My bad, turns out VMP's car has a few more mods. Mod List Roush 2.3L TVS supercharger kit -VMP tune -75mm pulley -Enclosed Air box (limits boost to 10-11psi) -FRPP CJ 62mm TB -1 ¾” long tube headers with cats -Stock mufflers -Roush supplied 47lb injectors with otherwise stock fuel system. -J&M lower control arms -3.55 gears -2011 gt500 diff cover -6pt roll bar -Weld wheels 18x6 front (heavy) and 15x10 rear with 275 (28”) M&H tires. Last dyno 627RWHP at 7200RPM Also a new best time of 10.15 @ 136. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a0O2vy_tHE
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Jan 28, 2011 21:20
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Ok, I was the guy that had a leaking thermostat housing a few weeks ago and just re-doing the gasket seemed to fix it, so thanks for the easy (much cheaper) suggestions in that problem. New problem now. 2006 Ford Mustang LX. When first starting after the idle drops down from the high idle it does not remain steady and the lights get dim when the idle drops but it always revs back up and lights get bright again. Now it's doing this over and over so it's a constant lights go dim, lights go bright while driving and it's noticeable to me so I'm sure it's annoying to the guy in front of me. Sometimes it stops when the engine gets to normal temperature but most times it continues. Last night I stopped at a light and about 10 seconds later the battery light came on. I revved the engine a bit and it went off and did not turn back on and the lights then stopped the dim/bright cycle. I've had the charging system checked and everything checked out fine. Is there anything else I should check before taking it somewhere which I want to avoid obviously. Here's an albeit not good video but what it's basically doing, at 30 seconds is where you can see what the idle does almost regularly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgpUfWfspLQ
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Jan 29, 2011 18:12
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My 2003 GT has done that since basically new, but I've never had the battery light turn on while doing it. Not really sure what to say if the charging system tested OK other than have it retested somewhere else. Intermittent problems are the most fun problems to diagnose.
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Jan 29, 2011 18:51
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It's no Mustang, but my '03 Protege does that as well, same dimming/brightening, same idle fluctuations, same apparently good charging system. Might just be an early 2000s FoMoCo thing.
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Jan 30, 2011 08:11
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snugglebunny posted:New problem now. I would reset the ECU. The ECU "learns" what settings the engine should run at, and the engine dying is part of the process of it learning. The first time I start my car in really cold weather for the first time in the year it usually dies. ECU learns new settings and it starts backup no problems for the rest of the year. Next time it happens, don't help it by using the throttle, just let it die.
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Jan 30, 2011 10:19
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Have the codes read. Does autozone still run them for free? The posts in this mustang forum thread seem to echo your problems as well. Faulty TPS sensor. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2005-2010-v6-mustang-tech/85231-2005-mustang-v6-intermittent-idle-problems.html Could possibly be an air leak. Unmetered air entering the engine makes things go screwy.
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Jan 30, 2011 14:10
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Ok thanks everyone. I'll check out all things posted here and hopefully one of them fixes it.
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Jan 30, 2011 18:06
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I would like to buy a Mustang, but am unsure of what I should be getting. I would like to spend ball park $5k cdn, so $4500 US ish or less after messing about with borderes and inspections etc. I don't mind going through that if I can find something way better however. What should I be able to afford with that? From some craigslisting, it looks like I can afford a 96 GT, a 99 v6 (blah), Fox bodys, 60's coupes with no engines. Seems like a crappy selection. I have owned a mustang 2 before, 130 hp v8 that needed a tranny rebuild. That car sucked, but hopefully newer mustangs are better Car will be for daily driving and probably autox/track days as well as having a v8 manual. +1 for convertable I guess, since I haven't owned one of those yet. I have a crappy pickup for when my back goes out and I can't drive stick. e: Located in Vancouver, but could fly to somewhere there are better prices/selection. blindjoe fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Feb 1, 2011 |
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Feb 1, 2011 20:59
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You should be able to find anything from an '04 GT on down in that price range in the USA. Obviously the newer the car the higher the miles. I'd probably probably only be able to get $5k for my '03 GT with 114k miles if I was looking to sell it right now; maybe up to $7k if I found a sucker.
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Feb 1, 2011 21:51
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