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So I've got a 500GB Western Seagate External Hard Drive - looks like this Now, because I'm a damned klutz, I managed to let it fall off the TV whilst trying to plug it in to the PS3. (alcohol told me it would be a good idea to put it on a surface not perpendicular to the gravitational pull of the Earth) The resulting collision with the floor caused the USB data cable connector to fall into its socket. As far as I can surmise, this is the only thing which is broken (I hope). Does anyone have any experience with breaking open one of these, or should I just shell out and get a pro to do it for me? If its the latter, one shop says it's £40 labour charge for a scan, and the other says their data recovery services start from £65. This probably sounds dumb but as someone not familiar with distinctions in tech jargon, which one would you recommend?
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Jan 15, 2011 03:24
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If it's got screws open it up and see if you can pull the drive. Then you can just throw it into another enclosure if the drive is still good.
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Jan 15, 2011 03:36
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Nuclear Spoon posted:Western Seagate External Hard Drive  Wha?I'm guessing by the photo that it really is a Seagate drive, but drat that had me confused for a second.
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Jan 15, 2011 03:38
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Factory Factory posted:Replace the fans with low-noise fans? I'm not sure if that's possible since there's a proprietary carrier the fans go into, but I'll look into it.
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Jan 15, 2011 03:57
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I'm split on this. I want to be able to do fraps or other video capture apps on the same computer as the game is running on. What would make it run the games faster while running a capture program? SSD or the new cpu/mobo? Can I do it within 200?
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Jan 15, 2011 04:14
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Generally speaking, RAM is most important (to minimize disk transfers due to paging), more cores/threads on the CPU is best once RAM is sufficient as long as the storage is fast enough (i.e. capturing to a different single disk than the game is loading from), and then finally disk transfer rate (especially if your initial captures are lossless or low-compression encodes for speed).
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Jan 15, 2011 04:48
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So for a second reason, go for the CPU/Moho, do it?
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Jan 15, 2011 07:13
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Secret Sweater posted:Also does anyone know if the range increase on the N router would be worth the price if they have absolutely no reason to use anything above 54g? There's not range increase inherit to the N spec. 2.4ghz N connections will have the same range all else being equal between routers, and 5ghz N connections will have lower range, due to reduced wall penetration. I'd buy a few routers with removable antennas and can run DD-WRT/Tomato, upgrade the antennas, then use the extra routers as repeaters. Be advised that all the routers will 'share' the total bandwidth (so, if you have 4 routers, it would be 54mbps/4, even if only one computer is connected at the time). If they're only using this to go online, you could add many routers without a noticeable affect.
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Jan 15, 2011 14:04
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adomorn posted:I'm split on this. I want to be able to do fraps or other video capture apps on the same computer as the game is running on. What would make it run the games faster while running a capture program? SSD or the new cpu/mobo? Can I do it within 200? Does FRAPS support recording to a drive other than the drive your game is on? For a no-cost solution (assuming you already have an extra drive), you can try recording to a directory that you're not running the game off of. This won't help if the slowdowns are being caused due to the encoding, though. That would mean your CPU isn't holding up or you don't have enough RAM. What are your current specs and which game are you running?
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Jan 15, 2011 14:07
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Yes, you can point Fraps to any drive or folder for its save location. Which is of course a very, very good idea - Fraps on not only a separate drive, but a separate controller.
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Jan 15, 2011 17:32
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Okay, been looking into the DVI to VGA adapters. I know there are three forms of DVI (A, D, and I). Can you even use a DVI-D to VGA adapter (The passive one)? This is male DVI-D to Female VGA. I know the DVI-I will do VGA, but will the DVI-D do it without an active converter?
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Jan 16, 2011 01:53
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Gothmog1065 posted:Okay, been looking into the DVI to VGA adapters. I know there are three forms of DVI (A, D, and I). Can you even use a DVI-D to VGA adapter (The passive one)? This is male DVI-D to Female VGA.
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Jan 16, 2011 01:58
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Copied from the router thread: I'm not sure if a router is necessarily what I need (hence my asking): I will have two desktops (XP and Windows 7) side by side. I want both of them to have wired internet access from my 20 mbps, which leads me to the following questions: 1. Do I need a router for this to happen, or is there some kind of splitter that would work since it would all be wired? 2. If there isn't a non-router option for both computers using the internet at the same time, do the $3 box things work well enough for only one computer using the internet at a time? Thanks gents.
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Jan 16, 2011 02:01
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Alereon posted:No, DVI-D only carries the digital signal so you can't adapt it to VGA. Yet they sell them. I'm an idiot, and thank you. In that case, there's no way to get a DVI-D (Doesn't have the 4 analog pins around the flat one) to vga without a $100+ adapter? edit: It makes sense now. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jan 16, 2011 |
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Jan 16, 2011 02:02
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vs Dinosaurs posted:I will have two desktops (XP and Windows 7) side by side. I want both of them to have wired internet access from my 20 mbps, which leads me to the following questions: Depending on how your ISP sets things up, you may be able to use an Ethernet switch instead of a router; some cable companies will hand out DHCP addresses to multiple devices (I think with most ISPs, they cap it at 3). However, they may not; if you already have an Ethernet switch and a few cables handy, it won't cost you anything to try it. Otherwise, a router would be your next real choice. vs Dinosaurs posted:2. If there isn't a non-router option for both computers using the internet at the same time, do the $3 box things work well enough for only one computer using the internet at a time? I don't know what "$3 box things" you're referring to here.
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Jan 16, 2011 03:02
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Dinty Moore posted:Depending on how your ISP sets things up, you may be able to use an Ethernet switch instead of a router; some cable companies will hand out DHCP addresses to multiple devices (I think with most ISPs, they cap it at 3). However, they may not; if you already have an Ethernet switch and a few cables handy, it won't cost you anything to try it. Otherwise, a router would be your next real choice. My provider is Comcast, are you familiar with how they do things regarding DHCP addresses? Would an Ethernet switch like this enable both connected computers to use the internet at once? The three dollar things that I saw are something like this:
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Jan 16, 2011 03:28
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Ivs Dinosaurs posted:My provider is Comcast, are you familiar with how they do things regarding DHCP addresses? Would an Ethernet switch like this enable both connected computers to use the internet at once? quote:NOTE: This Ethernet splitter allows two computers to share one Ethernet line ONE AT A TIME, but it doesn't support both computer to connect onto the internet simultaneously. Just get a router, man. You'll save yourself a ton of headaches. Why are you trying not to?
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Jan 16, 2011 03:39
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No reason other than to save a couple bucks, and what is that I referring too at the top of your post Triikan?
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Jan 16, 2011 03:42
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You'd probably have to call Comcast to figure the DHCP thing out. It's really more trouble than it's worth. For a couple bucks more than that switch you posted you can get any of these routers: http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0316231 http://www.buy.com/prod/trendnet-tew-432brp-54mbps-wireless-g-broadband-router-trendnet-tew/q/loc/101/201683081.html
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Jan 16, 2011 03:51
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You should get a router. A switch doesn't protect your computers like a router will. Routers are more secure, and less of a headache than trying to get 2 computers with their own addresses from your ISP.
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Jan 16, 2011 03:53
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Didn't realize how cheaply one could get a router for (thanks a lot for the links Triikan). I doubt that a really cheap router is going to matter given that it will all be wired, so that should do the trick!
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Jan 16, 2011 04:30
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Is it safe to keep a computer and monitor by a window? The window is almost always closed with a curtain drawn. I'm afraid that the changes in temperature might mess with my hardware. Am I worrying over nothing?
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Jan 16, 2011 09:09
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Lief posted:Is it safe to keep a computer and monitor by a window? The window is almost always closed with a curtain drawn. I'm afraid that the changes in temperature might mess with my hardware. Am I worrying over nothing? Unless you're going from extremely cold to extremely hot on a daily basis, I'd wager you're worrying over nothing.
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Jan 16, 2011 09:18
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I have my audio running through HDMI (that is, my monitor is connected to the video card via HDMI, and then speakers are plugged into my monitor). In that case, does the onboard audio (your standard Realtek High Definition sound thing) do anything? I uninstalled the driver for the Realtek and I still have audio, so I guess not, or is there something else to it? I ask because I'm having an issue with a game that has no sound, whether I plug the speakers into the onboard audio or the monitor/HDMI. If they are unrelated, why would I be having the same issue with both?
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Jan 17, 2011 00:46
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Do graphics cards still eat power like poo poo during idle and low throughput operation (i.e. running Aero)? I've currently an 8800GT, which is said to have a generally high power draw.
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Jan 17, 2011 00:50
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Samurai Sanders posted:I have my audio running through HDMI (that is, my monitor is connected to the video card via HDMI, and then speakers are plugged into my monitor). In that case, does the onboard audio (your standard Realtek High Definition sound thing) do anything? I uninstalled the driver for the Realtek and I still have audio, so I guess not, or is there something else to it? Combat Pretzel posted:Do graphics cards still eat power like poo poo during idle and low throughput operation (i.e. running Aero)? I've currently an 8800GT, which is said to have a generally high power draw.
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Jan 17, 2011 02:38
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Looking into buying a Sandy Bridge setup (upgrading from E8400) Is UEFI really worth getting? I have an Intel board right now, and was planning to buy the DP67BA, though I haven't seen anything concrete that it supports UEFI. I guess the only thing that would make me jump to an Asus board is whether this would help the outcome of OS X86.
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Jan 17, 2011 02:49
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luigionlsd posted:Looking into buying a Sandy Bridge setup (upgrading from E8400)
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Jan 17, 2011 02:57
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Alereon posted:I'd treat UEFI as a requirement. It's necessary to use HDDs over 2TB, and it really cuts boot time. Checked the product specs PDF from Intel's website and it looks like that board does support UEFI. Thanks for the help!
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Jan 17, 2011 03:18
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Alereon posted:It depends on the videocard you have. AMD videocards have an onboard Realtek HD Audio Codec that handles audio over HDMI, nVidia videocards for a long time had a SP/DIF connector to run a cable to your soundcard/motherboard, but I think these days they use a codec too. In the game that has no sound, see if it has settings to force playback to a certain device.
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Jan 17, 2011 04:18
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Is there any reason to buy 8gb of RAM for a PC that will primarily be used for gaming? Planning to keep it for about 2-3 years (i5 2500k, going from C2D E8400)
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Jan 17, 2011 04:24
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luigionlsd posted:Is there any reason to buy 8gb of RAM for a PC that will primarily be used for gaming? Planning to keep it for about 2-3 years (i5 2500k, going from C2D E8400) At a certain point here RAM is going to reach its lowest cost per gigabyte. No games now, that I'm aware of anyways, are 64 and can utilize more than 4GB. Its possible that within the feasible lifetime of your CPU that games will become able to address 4GB+. If you have the extra money at this point to grab 8GB, it might not be a bad idea. Personally, if I were building a new machine based on an i5 2500k, I would get 8GB (2x 4GB).
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Jan 17, 2011 04:29
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Sir Nigel posted:At a certain point here RAM is going to reach its lowest cost per gigabyte. No games now, that I'm aware of anyways, are 64 and can utilize more than 4GB. Its possible that within the feasible lifetime of your CPU that games will become able to address 4GB+. If you have the extra money at this point to grab 8GB, it might not be a bad idea. Personally, if I were building a new machine based on an i5 2500k, I would get 8GB (2x 4GB). Any disadvantage to getting 4 sticks of 2gb? I have $97 in Amazon money and was looking to get two sets of: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GOPWDE/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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Jan 17, 2011 04:46
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Might be a bit harder to overclock/push timings, since you're depending on 4 DIMMs being able to be pushed hard, rather than just 2. That's pretty much it.
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Jan 17, 2011 04:54
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I have two samsung f3 1 tb drives. I bought them at different times for different purposes, but now i want to put both in the same computer. Would it be a bad idea to put them into raid 0? Apparently there is a samsung f3r intended for raid, and i read somewhere that the regular f3 is not as reliable in raid.
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Jan 17, 2011 11:40
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BLOWTAKKKS posted:I have two samsung f3 1 tb drives. I bought them at different times for different purposes, but now i want to put both in the same computer. Would it be a bad idea to put them into raid 0? Apparently there is a samsung f3r intended for raid, and i read somewhere that the regular f3 is not as reliable in raid. Other than if one drive has a failure all your data will be lost and your computer will explode and kill your dog and mom? No.
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Jan 17, 2011 15:57
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Thats what I'm trying to avoid. I want to know if the f3r is less prone to failure, or what exactly the difference is. Should I move this to the parts picking thread?
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Jan 17, 2011 16:05
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BLOWTAKKKS posted:Thats what I'm trying to avoid. I want to know if the f3r is less prone to failure, or what exactly the difference is. Should I move this to the parts picking thread? You should forget raid0. . . They are more prone to failure, and the problem with raid0 is if one of them decides to randomly drop (not drive failure) for any reason, you're hosed, and back to ground 0 son.
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Jan 17, 2011 16:33
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So I was playing TF2 when my computer randomly died.  I did build this computer but I'm not super computer savvy, so I'm not positive what the problem is. As far as I can tell, there are three things not getting power: the CPU, the graphics card, and a fan, all of which are plugged into the motherboard (ASUS); other fans, and things that get power straight from the psu seem to be working. I assume the it's the mobo that's gone bad, but is there any way I can confirm the issue before I spend cash money on a hunch? e: problem solved! amusinginquiry fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Jan 17, 2011 |
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Jan 17, 2011 18:58
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amusinginquiry posted:So I was playing TF2 when my computer randomly died. Before you do anything, remove the motherboard, ram, and videocard from the case, then return it to it. Reseating everything solves about 3/4ths of all computer problems I have.
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Jan 17, 2011 19:00
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