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allonblack posted:The front ended up a tad lower than I wanted it to which is what makes the rear look a bit higher by comparison. I actually sort of like it with the rear end end a bit taller though I suspect I'll balance it back out when I get my Cusco rear control arms since I'll need another alignment then. What kind of HP are you putting out with this thing? I'm curious because I roasted the hell out of one just like this in my '02 Z28 but it did better than I expected. Then again I know nothing about these cars other than WRX = fastest subaru.
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Jan 17, 2011 05:27
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wav3form posted:What kind of HP are you putting out with this thing? I'm curious because I roasted the hell out of one just like this in my '02 Z28 but it did better than I expected. Then again I know nothing about these cars other than WRX = fastest subaru. I'm only "stage 1" so probably 270 wheel hp, 300 torque or so. At stage 2 you're looking at 300whp, 330-340tq. Was it just a WRX? Or was it a WRX STI? The Z28 weighed what? 3700lbs? 325hp? It must have been stock if you "roasted the hell out of one". allonblack fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Jan 17, 2011 |
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Jan 17, 2011 05:39
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I traded it for a redneck transport vehicle! I loved the mustang but this truck is a monster. I really need to find someplace to wheel it
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Jan 17, 2011 06:16
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allonblack posted:I'm only "stage 1" so probably 270 wheel hp, 300 torque or so. At stage 2 you're looking at 300whp, 330-340tq. I think the Z28s were around 3500-3600lbs and stock output about 350 engine hp and dyno around 315 or so. As far as the subaru, it was an STI and it looked pretty sharp but I doubt it had anything serious done to it. A stage 2 would be much more of a challenge.
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Jan 17, 2011 12:28
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wav3form posted:I think the Z28s were around 3500-3600lbs and stock output about 350 engine hp and dyno around 315 or so. As far as the subaru, it was an STI and it looked pretty sharp but I doubt it had anything serious done to it. A stage 2 would be much more of a challenge. Looks more like the 2002 Z28 had about 310 hp, and a little over 3300 lbs. The SS was good for 325 hp.
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Jan 17, 2011 13:23
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Took the Golf out for one last hoon before I SORN it until the summer. The battery was dead since it hadn't been used during all the snow and cold but once it got going, it ran lovely. It's just not the nicest thing to drive during crap weather. I'm going to buy her a nice winter coat, and then hopefully take it out for a few track days as soon as the weather warms up.
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Jan 18, 2011 13:33
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For those wondering about that '49 Ford F-1 thread a few months back: I'm sorry. I'm verch101's roommate/friend, and thought I'd give an update, and promise to make a new thread soon. Over the summer we didn't have time to do anything, summer classes are a bitch. Over the fall semester though, we got poo poo done, over winter break: more so. Truck is 100% fully dis-assembled now, including full motor breakdown, which we sent the block off in mid december to get magnafluxed and look for cracks, and about a week ago, we heard back: flathead v8 is dead, catastrophic crack running from #3 cylinder's valve to the cam: hosed. (Hello 800lb patio table in the making) In other news the cab and bed are off, all other body parts are lying in the bed... so we're left with a bare frame. Next is to de-grease and cleanup before por-15, but need to decide what motor is going in now incase we need to weld in new motormounts; we're too cheap to find another flathead, so we may end up going to the darkside... Also, now have a cherry picker, stick and mig welder, sandblaster, and much bigger compressor and our pneumatic tools, life is much better now  Anyway, a proper writeup and pics will happen soon, promise.
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Jan 19, 2011 21:27
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Sold it. Got the check last night, the thirteen letter poo poo spreader is going to South Carolina. (there will be a thread about this)
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Jan 19, 2011 21:34
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Changed the starter on a 1996 Lexus ls400. But that was a few days last week and this weekend.
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Jan 19, 2011 22:35
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some texas redneck posted:Looks more like the 2002 Z28 had about 310 hp, and a little over 3300 lbs. The SS was good for 325 hp. They were underrated quite a bit. Hell, most of them dyno over 300 at the wheels so you know they didn't start with 310.
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Jan 19, 2011 22:45
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Got some of those newfangled ricer lightbulbs. Halogens, I think they call them. Say what you will about sealed beams, when there are four highs, you get a lot of light output. The lights I took out still had FoMoCo emblems in the glass, but I can't possibly think that they were original. wallaka fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Jan 20, 2011 |
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Jan 20, 2011 00:53
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Wanderer89 posted:we're too cheap to find another flathead, so we may end up going to the darkside... If this means a small block chevy, gently caress you. If this means big block ford (stroker 460!), now that's just fine. trouser chili posted:Sold it. Got the check last night, the thirteen letter poo poo spreader is going to South Carolina. (there will be a thread about this) Nooo! After all that work getting it rebuilt?
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Jan 20, 2011 01:07
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wallaka posted:Got some of those newfangled ricer lightbulbs. Ahh, back before they figured out that keeping both on was a bad idea as it ruines distance perception with so much near-field brilliance.
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Jan 20, 2011 01:22
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DJ Commie posted:Ahh, back before they figured out that keeping both on was a bad idea as it ruines distance perception with so much near-field brilliance. My brand new 2011 car keeps the low beam projectors on when you flip on the high beam reflectors.
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Jan 20, 2011 07:33
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New rear tires. 225/45R17 Dunlop Direzza 03G. New rear undertray. Two GoPro Motorsport HDs.
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Jan 20, 2011 09:26
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Raluek posted:Nooo! After all that work getting it rebuilt? After all the work I put in it, yes. I owe the truck that much. Between my daily driver 1982 240d, the 1998 ITR, and the 1976 Scout I've got too many project-type vehicles to keep the poor pickup. We've had our fun, I've learned a lot, and it's going to a very good home. It's actually slated for a full restoration by an IH enthusiast who's already done a few himself. This is something I can't hope to accomplish. Right now it's sitting on the street with a foot of snow on it and salt being thrown down next to it because I've got no garage or driveway space for it. I'm not going to be one of those guys that hangs on to a car just to let it rot into scrap.
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Jan 20, 2011 16:26
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trouser chili posted:I'm not going to be one of those guys that hangs on to a car just to let it rot into scrap. You have earned one of the most difficult AI merit badges. Today I replaced my rack and pinion again; made it three and a half months on the last one. gently caress you, Advance Auto. Also, thank you, Advance Auto, for your limited lifetime warranty. Also, I am getting fast as poo poo at doing a driveway rack and pinion on a RWD Volvo. e: and dropped off a battery for trickle-charging. Got me wondering how hard it could be to build a 13-volt 1-amp trickle-charging circuit harness with some Radio Shack diodes and resistors? Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jan 20, 2011 |
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Jan 20, 2011 23:42
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Ugh, replacing the R&P on my 240 is pretty high on the list of just plain unpleasant automotive jobs I've ever done. The really lovely part for me was I had maybe a few months earlier replaced the boots and tie rod ends, only to have it start pissing through the input shaft seal - which apparently cannot be replaced without just rebuilding the fucker.
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Jan 21, 2011 01:11
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It sucked a huge weiner the first time I did it, this is true. I spent 9 hours under the car with a hammer because the last (instead of the first) thing I tried to do was slide the collar onto the steering shaft from the rack and pinion; the fucker wouldn't spread wide enough and I was too loving stubborn to take the whole rack off again. That night I learned the wrong way how to be a good neighbor in a townhouse. Mistakes and hating what you're doing are amazing teachers. This one took me an hour and a half on the ground at a laid back pace with maybe a foot of vertical space and a soda and cookies break.  It felt great.
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Jan 21, 2011 03:48
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Splizwarf posted:You have earned one of the most difficult AI merit badges. It's gotta be pretty easy. Get a power supply that'll do some voltage greater than 13V (isn't lead acid charging voltage 13.8v?) and figure out what resistor you would need to both drop the voltage and limit the current to your voltage and current goal. I'd imagine the hardest part would be finding a resistor in the few-watts range of the value you need. Am I way off base on this, oh ye who Actually know electronics? e: Like, if you had a 15V power adapter at an amp+, you'd use a ~1ohm resistor in the 2W+ range. Right? I always just use my bench power supply, which has current control.... Raluek fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 22, 2011 |
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Jan 22, 2011 02:45
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Raluek posted:It's gotta be pretty easy. Get a power supply that'll do some voltage greater than 13V (isn't lead acid charging voltage 13.8v?) and figure out what resistor you would need to both drop the voltage and limit the current to your voltage and current goal. I'd imagine the hardest part would be finding a resistor in the few-watts range of the value you need. Lead acid batteries are constant voltage charged, so slap 14.2 volts onto them and they'll reach Quiescence eventually. Nicad/Ni-mh are constant current. So you'd need an LM317 regulator, and the appropriate resistor for 14.2 volts, and the 15 volt power supply. (TO-220 heatsink is recommended for the LM317 regulator.)
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Jan 22, 2011 08:29
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I installed half a boost gauge! Ripped all the interior panels off and wired it up. Tomorrow morning I will install the sensor, gauge, and mount it on the pillar. Also, I used scotch locks. gently caress Soldering. Also have a catch can to install at some point during that installation as I found a weird amount of oil in my intercooler piping last time it was off.
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Jan 22, 2011 13:22
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DJ Commie posted:Ahh, back before they figured out that keeping both on was a bad idea as it ruines distance perception with so much near-field brilliance. The low beam bulbs' second filament is identical to the outboard high beam single filament, though. It doesn't keep the low-beam filament on, so I don't think it would really have that problem.
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Jan 22, 2011 20:54
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Sponge! posted:Lead acid batteries are constant voltage charged, so slap 14.2 volts onto them and they'll reach Quiescence eventually. At that point I guess you might as well just spend a couple bucks more and get a volt panel meter and replace the resistor for a pot, have a low-cost bench power supply. The LM317T only does 1.5A though.
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Jan 23, 2011 01:26
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Saw six cars totaled due to black ice today, five were SUV/Crossover types. Black ice will never claim my precious 1986 Subaru so long as I can help it. 
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Jan 23, 2011 03:54
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Jan 23, 2011 04:23
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I decided that crashing my car would be a fun and exciting experience. Sandy intersection + SUV slamming on it's brakes because someone cut her off =    Although it looks terrible I lucked out and it's just going to be a new hood, bumper, front quarter panel, and radiator. Completely missed the bumper support and lights!  The SUV walked away with a bent tow hook, which my bumper was embedded in, and a scratched bumper. Guess i'll be upgrading the brake components when it gets back from the shop in a few weeks.
Conelrad fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jan 23, 2011 |
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Jan 23, 2011 17:56
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Podothehobbit posted:
Upgrade your tires, following distance and/or paying attention skills first. Unless you were unable somehow to lock up the brakes or engage the anti-lock system, better brakes are not going to help you.
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Jan 24, 2011 00:18
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You were still on your autocross tires, were you?
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Jan 24, 2011 01:22
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kimbo305 posted:You were still on your autocross tires, were you? Haha yes. Yokohama S Drives, which are suppose to have an Ultra High Performance Summer rating per Tire Rack, with about 75% tread still on all 4 tires. I went from clutch in/foot on brake to ABS kicking in to sliding across the dusty intersection. I certainly try to follow the recommended following distance but this time I just kept on sliding. I'll be certainly adding to that since Tucson refuses to do anything to sweep the streets but in the end I was certainly at fault and should have recognized the changing conditions. Conelrad fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Jan 24, 2011 |
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Jan 24, 2011 03:20
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Bought a new set of tires. The previous owner installed 225 wide on all four corners and on a TT 300zx that's like being Bambi on ice in all weather. I got a set of Sumitomo HTR-Z III's. 245/40/18 in the front and 265/40/18 in the rear. The 350z wheels that are on the car right now really can't take any wider unfortunately. Its still going to be light-years better than it is now.
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Jan 24, 2011 03:34
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Fixed the windshield washer nozzles which were plugged with gunk, and put new wiper blades on my '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic. Finally, a clean windshield!
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Jan 26, 2011 02:12
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Changed oil and filter, and my brake pads. Previous pads turned my nice shiny wheels into matte brown turds in a matter of days. new pads stop about 100% better and no dust!
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Jan 26, 2011 11:38
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Put the new sunroof seal on the 240SX, then pulled it out and parked the Monterey in the garage next to the Comet. I wasn't sure that it would fit, but I got just enough room to open the tool chest that is located in front of the car.
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Jan 27, 2011 23:05
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Did some refreshing of my 1980 Mercedes' shifter trim & wood panel. I attempted to polish out some fine surface scratches in the wood, it appears as though it'll need some light sandpaper and lacquer instead. I painted the shifter gate with Plasti-Dip, which produced a close approximation of the OE look and texture. The worn plastic over the PRNDSL was replaced with a cut piece from a CD case. The crack in the upper-left hand corner has been sealed with superglue and isn't visible when installed. I'm pretty much done with this 300cd after owning it for 4 years and I want something else. A millionaire wants to tow it behind his RV. I think it's time to pick up a 6.9, 300sel, W126 AMG or w111 coupe. 
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Jan 30, 2011 08:20
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installed a manual boost controller! Pro: More boost! con: waaaay too much boost! basically its a ball and spring valve. even set to fully open, its still restricting the line to the actuator enough that 3rd gear WOT is hitting in excess of 12PSI. for a stock-internal SR20DET with 100 grand on the clock, its kind of dangerous, but on the other hand theres no real way I can hit that unless I am pulling an OJ or at the track, so Im not sure if I should worry. Having 10PSI through first and second(a solenoid limits boost in the first 2 gears) its great though, once you get there.... So a more responsive turbo, injectors, fuel pump and ECU remap is next on the cards. once I have about $3500 to spare and on a less exciting/dangerous note.... Installed new speakers! well not really. My old speakers are 6.5in. splits and the crossovers died (installer wrapped them in a plastic bag that collected a bunch of rain water in the door - hurray) the water also soaked into the MDF speaker adapters the installer used to mount the 6.5"s in the hole meant for the 4x6 factory speakers, which are not too swollen/fragile to use as a trace for new ones, and my new speakers are 6" so the hole was too big. So i have new crossovers, with old speakers, and funnily enough it sounds a lot better than it did. Still going to get some PVC adapters off ebay for the new speakers and fit them next weekend. also the tweeters for the new speakers are smaller than the old ones, and they cut into the door cards to install the old ones  so maybe new door cards are in order too.
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Jan 31, 2011 01:16
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First visit to Buttonwillow, with a bowel clenching near-miss on Sunrise while trying to chase down an S2000: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoB03CNrnpE Bonus picture of car headed directly towards corner worker with the wheel cranked half a turn over:
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Feb 1, 2011 08:03
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Got out a little after work and played in the 3+ inches of sleet and ice. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0OmAlQRWDM Nothing impressive, just fun.
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Feb 2, 2011 04:08
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Put the stock exhaust and wheels back on the M3 in preparation for a sale...
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Feb 3, 2011 00:35
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My roundels wore out.  So, I got some  CF ones from Ebay to drop on there instead. They're actually nicer than I thought they'd be, although the back one didn't fit out of the box. The new ones have 5mm studs to mount to the car with. Perfect for the hood, but the OEM trunk one had 3mm studs. I had to dremel away some plastic to get the rear one to fit, because gently caress drilling out my decklid for that.The trunk badge wasn't nearly as bad as the hood one, but the paint was starting to flake off of it.    
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Feb 4, 2011 03:54
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