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Brigdh posted:Where do I find a spanner or monkey wrench for a 52mm nut? No one in town has anything close http://www.ardesign.info/store/ar-design-n54-differential-install-tool.html
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Jan 6, 2011 22:10
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Sears? I've seen 4" wrenches and sockets before (assuming you live in  )Farm implement stores usually have these sorts of things as well.
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Jan 6, 2011 22:18
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Brigdh posted:Where do I find a spanner or monkey wrench for a 52mm nut? No one in town has anything close Fifteen bucks ok? http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6608-hub-nut-tool-2-116-stamped-steel.aspx
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Jan 6, 2011 23:33
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Brigdh posted:Where do I find a spanner or monkey wrench for a 52mm nut? No one in town has anything close Farm supply store? I got the socket to take the big nut off my axle from a place that mostly sells livestock feed.
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Jan 6, 2011 23:33
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I looked at sears, they didn't have anything, but unfortunately the only sears within 50 miles is like a half-sized store. A socket won't work because the nut has a strut rod going through it, but I didn't think of farm supply stores. I try looking there. Thanks
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Jan 6, 2011 23:57
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Brigdh posted:I looked at sears, they didn't have anything, but unfortunately the only sears within 50 miles is like a half-sized store. Can you get a pipewrench on it? I'll assume you've tried industrial supply stores like Fastenal, Grainger etc...
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Jan 7, 2011 01:15
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Have you checked your local Autozone and Advance Auto Parts? They have tool loaner programs and may have a specialty tool large enough for you.
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Jan 7, 2011 01:47
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Exhaust shops can sometimes make you stamped steel sockets for larger diameters like that too.
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Jan 7, 2011 03:41
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scapulataf posted:Can you get a pipewrench on it? Yeah, I could. I haven't tried industrial supply stores yet, as I kinda need to get this done by Wednesday. I found out my lock jaw pliers just barely work, but they marr the nut up. Still would prefer a wrench grover posted:Have you checked your local Autozone and Advance Auto Parts? They have tool loaner programs and may have a specialty tool large enough for you. Advance yes, Checker yes, Autozone no. I don't like the local Autozone.
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Jan 7, 2011 04:45
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Buy the cheapest welder at harbor freight with a 20% off coupon in a popular science and make your own?
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Jan 7, 2011 05:14
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MSC has free one day shipping and you're not getting the needed wrench from them why? Industrial supply stores have so much poo poo it will make your eyes glaze over and they will ship it to your door next day. I don't see the problem.
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Jan 7, 2011 17:33
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Chauncey posted:MSC has free one day shipping and you're not getting the needed wrench from them why? Because I didn't know they had free one day shipping. I'll look into this right away 
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Jan 7, 2011 18:11
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Brigdh posted:I looked at sears, they didn't have anything, but unfortunately the only sears within 50 miles is like a half-sized store. That's the Rx-7 strut rod? Just use a pipe wrench and loosen it while its still on the car. Tighten then put on the springs if they are like mine and are lowering.
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Jan 7, 2011 21:52
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Just purchased an Ingersoll impact wrench to kick off my new build
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Jan 8, 2011 02:28
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Christobevii3 posted:Buy the cheapest welder at harbor freight with a 20% off coupon in a popular science and make your own? gently caress that human being assed poo poo. Buy some plaster, make a mold for a 52mm socket, then get some old brake rotors, or a bunch of wire coathangers. Buy an O/A torch from harbour freight, melt that poo poo down pour it in to the mold and let it cool. Take it somewhere to have it chromed and stamepd with a big assed 52MM on it. Viola, you now have a 52mm socket.
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Jan 8, 2011 04:09
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Speaking of harbor freight, are their welders any good? Not for a business or anything, just for occasional use.
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Jan 8, 2011 04:26
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Rubiks Pubes posted:Speaking of harbor freight, are their welders any good? Not for a business or anything, just for occasional use. The little inverter arc one is pretty nice for occasional use, with the understanding it is an arc welder. I have one now, the duty cycle is pretty decent, 35% at full power. It is not the best at light welding, personal opinion. The rest of the welders suck. Edit: Link! http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/arc-welders/80-amp-inverter-arc-welder-91110.html
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Jan 8, 2011 04:49
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Which is to say, all their MIG and TIG stuff sucks. Get a Miller or Lincoln that you won't regret buying.
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Jan 8, 2011 05:32
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Raluek posted:Which is to say, all their MIG and TIG stuff sucks. Get a Miller or Lincoln that you won't regret buying. Their 110(?) amp scratch start inverter TIG isn't a bad little machine. Certainly not for the $165 I paid for it. It's no syncrowave 180, OTOH, it didn't cost $2k either. If you're doing simple mild/stainless steel stuff, it's perfectly adequate as long as you don't need a foot pedal. ETA: Yes, their MIG stuff blows, as do most of their arc welders, but the little TIG boxes aren't terrible.
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Jan 8, 2011 16:21
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Wompa164 posted:Just purchased an Ingersoll impact wrench to kick off my new build You can't just post that and not give the model number!
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Jan 9, 2011 01:02
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I am in the market for a small lathe, and checked the first bit of the thread but was not able to much. I'm in the market for something around 180mm X 250mm. Never having owned a lathe before, and only using one briefly, I am not too educated on the subject. Where would be some good places to look (in Canada) for lathes, and a general overview of metal lathes?
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Jan 16, 2011 10:40
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DefaultPeanut posted:I am in the market for a small lathe, and checked the first bit of the thread but was not able to much. I'm in the market for something around 180mm X 250mm. Never having owned a lathe before, and only using one briefly, I am not too educated on the subject. Where in Canada are you? Used metalworking machinery is mostly located in the east, GTA and ON in general, QC as well. Much less to be had out west. What kind of parts or work do you plan on doing? I'd be happy to answer any questions about lathes, I'm a 3rd/4th year Machinist apprentice and I work mostly on a manual lathe. EDIT: scapulataf posted:gently caress that human being assed poo poo. Please ignore everything this man said, definitely trolling hard. 
tesko.pk fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Jan 16, 2011 |
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Jan 16, 2011 10:57
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tesko.pk posted:Where in Canada are you Out West - BC, near Vancouver. I am looking to make a few small things for some bikes I am working on, as they are no longer available and NOS parts are very pricey. Also, having the ability to start with a chunk of stock and turn it into exactly what I need has always fascinated me. My main questions: Who, where and how do I properly get started?
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Jan 16, 2011 11:50
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DefaultPeanut posted:I am in the market for a small lathe, and checked the first bit of the thread but was not able to much. I'm in the market for something around 180mm X 250mm. Never having owned a lathe before, and only using one briefly, I am not too educated on the subject.
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Jan 16, 2011 15:51
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tesko.pk posted:EDIT: Humour, maybe satire. Someone suggested welding up a socket. I proposed the more manly solution.
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Jan 17, 2011 03:15
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DefaultPeanut posted:Out West - BC, near Vancouver. I am looking to make a few small things for some bikes I am working on, as they are no longer available and NOS parts are very pricey. Also, having the ability to start with a chunk of stock and turn it into exactly what I need has always fascinated me. My main questions: Who, where and how do I properly get started? Check craigslist, kijiji, industrial auctions, estate sells and the like for used machinery, tooling, and tools. For a budget, plan to spend equal amounts on the machine and tooling for it. As for inspection/measuring tools it all depends on what degree of precision you need, and how much you want to spend. Fowler, Browne and Sharpe offer good quality and are a cheaper investment than Starrett or Mitutoyo tools. A 0-3" set of outside micrometers, 8" Dial calipers, a set of telescoping gauges, a pair of 0-1" dial indicators and a stand, a couple of rulers (and if you plan on threading, a thread center gauge and PD wires) would be a properly good start. For Hand tools, a few sizes of files including lathe, a file card, wrenches, brass hammer, hex wrenches, screwdrivers, hopefully you've got most of that stuff in the toolbox already. For the Lathe itself, you know what size you want, so consider what other features, attachments and accessories you'd need. Big things like a Digital Read-Out, coolant pump, range of speeds and feeds, steady rest, follower rest, taper attachment, etc. Chucks, standard with a 3-jaw, also available are 4-jaw chucks, faceplates, collet chucks. Tailstock stuff like dead centers, drill chuck, Morse Taper sleeves. The Toolpost style, amount and configuration of holders. When buying a used machine, it's an absolute must to see it running and making chips, inspect it for damage/wear to the ways on the bed and to the cross-slide. Very important to keep in mind is size/weight and power source, for wherever you plan on setting up and running the machine. Check out local community colleges for training courses, introduction to metal-working and the like, always better to learn and experiment at a school, it's less expensive than on your own stuff.
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Jan 17, 2011 04:52
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KaiserBen posted:Their 110(?) amp scratch start inverter TIG isn't a bad little machine. Certainly not for the $165 I paid for it. It's no syncrowave 180, OTOH, it didn't cost $2k either. If you're doing simple mild/stainless steel stuff, it's perfectly adequate as long as you don't need a foot pedal. This sounds pretty interesting, I think I'll get this for shits and giggles. I use a Hobart 110V fluxcore/MIG welder from the 70s that has just about every part dying in some new and interesting way, sounds like another fun tool to play with.
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Jan 17, 2011 16:54
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If you want the 220v scratch-start TIG, I'll sell you mine. Its in good shape, and has a MadCatz race pedal hooked up (just bakcwards, foot on floor=low amps, foot off=max)... $150+shipping, include a couple of gas lenses and a bunch of tungstens.
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Jan 18, 2011 04:40
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sharkytm posted:has a MadCatz race pedal hooked up The gas or the brake? This is important.
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Jan 18, 2011 05:38
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For those that like to DIY and need a fuel injection tester: http://hackaday.com/2011/01/16/20-fuel-injector-tester/ Appears very easy to follow and would be worthwhile for megasquirt users.
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Jan 18, 2011 20:14
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The little inverter arc one is pretty nice for occasional use, with the understanding it is an arc welder. I have one now, the duty cycle is pretty decent, 35% at full power. It is not the best at light welding, personal opinion. Seconding everything about the 91110. I really dig mine, but I've never ever gotten it to work right on sheet metal. I can lay a rather nice looking fillet with full penetration at 1/16", 1/8" if I crank on it. The 3/32 7018 rod works well for me. With practice you can lay a much nicer looking weld than any bullcrap flux-core POS, with the added benefit of actually fusing metal together rather than melting poo poo all over the top of things. I also use and like their auto-darkening helmet with sweet blue flames. I can still see, and I don't get scratchy eyes so I suppose it's working.
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Jan 18, 2011 21:09
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I've used their auto darkening helmet quite a bit (non professionally) and really really like it. Not once have I woken up screaming in the middle of the night in pain.
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Jan 19, 2011 00:54
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Brigdh posted:Where do I find a spanner or monkey wrench for a 52mm nut? No one in town has anything close You can't find a pipe wrench for a 2 inch nut? Just go to Home Depot or Lowes. If the big-box hardware stores can't help you a plumbing store or plumber supply store will certainly have your back. I've got one that'll easily go to six inches.
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Jan 19, 2011 01:50
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Paul Boz_ posted:You can't find a pipe wrench for a 2 inch nut? Just go to Home Depot or Lowes. If the big-box hardware stores can't help you a plumbing store or plumber supply store will certainly have your back. I've got one that'll easily go to six inches. I already got something online that fits the bill, but no, Home Depot didn't have one that was big enough (and no lowes).
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Jan 19, 2011 03:15
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How can I measure torque on a nut that is only accessible using an open ended box wrench? Aside from hanging the proper amount of weight from the end on the wrench
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Jan 24, 2011 19:27
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Uh...maybe use a crowfoot on the torque wrench? Probably won't be accurate but it should be enough to get you in the ballpark.
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Jan 24, 2011 19:30
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Geoj posted:Uh...maybe use a crowfoot on the torque wrench? Probably won't be accurate but it should be enough to get you in the ballpark. If you put a crows foot on at a 90 degree instead of just extending straight out it shouldn't change the torque reading as much because it wont change the lever length as much. That's thinking abut a beam-style torque wrench. I don't know how it would work with a click kind.
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Jan 24, 2011 19:35
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I've been thinking about getting a vibratory tumbler to clean and polish a lot of the rusty but serviceable hardware holding my jalopy together after a colleague who restores motorcycles recommended it. I started looking in the Eastwood catalog before realizing their prices were probably extortionate and was wondering if the same sort of tumblers Cabela's and others sell for brass reloading were just as good (they're certainly cheaper). Then I realized that HF sells them as well, and for even less; does anybody have any experience with the HF units?
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Jan 24, 2011 20:56
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You could build your own for 25 dollars http://lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24651&view=findpost&p=276072
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Jan 24, 2011 21:06
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Geoj posted:Uh...maybe use a crowfoot on the torque wrench? Probably won't be accurate but it should be enough to get you in the ballpark. With a little bit of math it can be just as accurate.  (New length of arm)/(Old length of arm)=Torque modifier. So for a 20" wrench, extended 2" with a crows foot, 50 ft-lbs shown on the wrench is actually 55 ft-lbs. Flip the equation if you're going for a certain torque.
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Jan 24, 2011 22:06
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