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Ok, the whole centre console is what I've been trying to figure out how to remove. There are no screw heads or anything visible. I'm not sure where to start prying.
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Jan 30, 2011 18:34
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If you can, pull the gear stick boot up. On a couple of VW's I've worked on there's some lovely plastic bolts under there holding the console down.
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Jan 30, 2011 18:39
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mr.belowaverage posted:Ok, the whole centre console is what I've been trying to figure out how to remove. There are no screw heads or anything visible. I'm not sure where to start prying. There should be 2 oval plastic covers on either side of the console near the shifter and beneath them are 2 bolts - remove them. Beneath the rear ashtray there should be a nut - remove it. Pull the plastic cover off the parking brake - there's a little plastic lock on the underside where the handle meets the boot. You might have to remove the arm rest as well.
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Jan 30, 2011 23:47
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I have a 2000 jetta GLS that has some issues. Its been sitting for about 4 years and I have just recently looked into getting it running. Well, when I tried to pop the hood, the hood release does nothing and as such, I am unable to open the hood to deal with the dead battery and any other problems. I wasnt sure how to deal with this as removing the front panels and anything I tried brought no success. I then decided I would just take it to a shop to get it in a little better shape but it would need new tires on to be able to be towed, no problem, I thought, as I had a spare set of tires in good shape. Well... upon trying to remove the first wheel, the locking lug nut literally shattered into 5 pieces... so now I here I am with a 2000 GLS which is in great condition, has low mileage and its just stuck. Anybody have any suggestions as to how to deal with these locked lug nuts? I could hammer a socket on and get them off that way but then I still need to find 4 replacement or a whole replacement set of lug nuts. Basically does anyone have any suggestion on how to approach this? As you can imagine, I dont want to spend thousands on a ten year old car but I am positive the car doesnt need too much work to get running, just I am unable to get under the hood and unable to take the wheels off without getting replacement lug nuts. Any help at all is appreciated.
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Jan 31, 2011 15:58
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Hello again.... another odd annoyance with my 2002 Jetta V6. After a new MAF and a new catalytic convertor, etc.... totaling nearly $2000... It basically still has the same problems as before... just less often and less severe. I'm not really looking to replace the throttle module, even though that was the next thing on the list to do. Now what I am noticing is there seems to be various states of being for my car and it runs really well when the stars align the right way. Most of the time my check engine light will be off and the car will sputter, not too bad but just enough to be annoying. (Also it has been idling really low and sometimes actually stalls out after I first start it... I try to tell myself it's the cold.) I have noticed that my car runs much better when my check engine light is on. Here is how my typical week goes. My check engine light is on, car is running fine. I fill up with gas. I start the car, engine light remains on, car still runs fine. I get home and the car sits for a couple of hours, sometimes overnight. The next time I start my car my check engine light will be out. Initially I thought this was a good thing... everything is fixed, right?... No... when the check engine light goes out the car starts running like crap again, stuttering away. Again, better than it was but just enough to be really annoying. After a few days somewhere around half a tank of gas, my check engine light will come back on for apparently no reason and the car will run great until I need to fill up and the whole thing starts over again. So the car runs best with around half a tank of gas or less and the check engine light on. The check engine light on my girlfriend's Jeep comes on sometimes when her gas cap doesn't seal right... so maybe it's something along those lines.
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Jan 31, 2011 17:49
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I'm in the market for a "newish" ride and the 04 GTI's have really caught my eye. I am not a hard driver, but I do tend to put a poo poo load of miles on my vehicles. I don't really know much about VW's but of course "ive heard good things". Now my 98 civic has 240k miles on it with very little that has ever gone wrong with it, can I expect that type of longevity out of a GTI as well? I know 240k is a poo poo load of miles and probably some sort of freaky anomaly, but I just want to make sure i'm not getting into something with a short life expectancy.
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Jan 31, 2011 17:52
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Sointenly posted:I'm in the market for a "newish" ride and the 04 GTI's have really caught my eye. I am not a hard driver, but I do tend to put a poo poo load of miles on my vehicles. I don't really know much about VW's but of course "ive heard good things". Now my 98 civic has 240k miles on it with very little that has ever gone wrong with it, can I expect that type of longevity out of a GTI as well? I know 240k is a poo poo load of miles and probably some sort of freaky anomaly, but I just want to make sure i'm not getting into something with a short life expectancy. I'll tell you what I tell everyone who currently owns a Honda product and is thinking of going to VW: Don't, just don't do it. You might get better performance from the GTI but you'll hate the cost of ownership. I own two Honda and 2 Volvo products and I would never buy a VW/Audi despite the fact that I get parts at cost and I work with the cars every day. Take from that what you will.
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Feb 1, 2011 01:35
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Sointenly posted:I'm in the market for a "newish" ride and the 04 GTI's have really caught my eye. I am not a hard driver, but I do tend to put a poo poo load of miles on my vehicles. I don't really know much about VW's but of course "ive heard good things". Now my 98 civic has 240k miles on it with very little that has ever gone wrong with it, can I expect that type of longevity out of a GTI as well? I know 240k is a poo poo load of miles and probably some sort of freaky anomaly, but I just want to make sure i'm not getting into something with a short life expectancy. In the context of your other thread looking for a replacement commuter car, a Mk4 GTI is not what you want. It'll be great when it's working right, but you'll hate it if it fall off the wagon (of being reliable).
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Feb 1, 2011 02:12
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my1999gsr posted:I own two Honda and 2 Volvo products and I would never buy a VW/Audi despite the fact that I get parts at cost and I work with the cars every day. That is amazing, yet completely understandable.
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Feb 1, 2011 02:31
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teh jhey posted:That is amazing, yet completely understandable. Seriously. I love my Hondas more every day that I work on VAG cars. On my almost 400,000 KM GSR I broke exactly ONE bolt over the process of pulling the engine, rebuilding it and re-installing it. On VAG cars I assume that most bolts will be difficult to remove and many will break and I'm usually right. In the shop we say owning an Audi is like dating a super-model - they're fast and pretty but average people just can't afford to live with them. EDIT: Sorry about the bitching - I'm in the middle of pulling an A6's engine because that's what you have to do to check the cam timing and it's not much fun - re/re is about 14 hours.
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Feb 1, 2011 02:37
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You have to pull the engine to check timing? ... Posts like these make me not want to even think of replacing my GTI with anything German.. why does Honda only make boring cars
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Feb 1, 2011 05:59
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I've been pretty happy with my 98 Jetta TDI so far. Happy enough that I'm considering upgrading to a 2002 or 2003 TDI in the future. But if Honda/Toyota sold a Diesel in this country I'd be all over it.
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Feb 1, 2011 19:35
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Opensourcepirate posted:I've been pretty happy with my 98 Jetta TDI so far. Happy enough that I'm considering upgrading to a 2002 or 2003 TDI in the future. But if Honda/Toyota sold a Diesel in this country I'd be all over it. You should do that soon so I can buy your 98 
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Feb 1, 2011 19:38
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Opensourcepirate posted:I've been pretty happy with my 98 Jetta TDI so far. Happy enough that I'm considering upgrading to a 2002 or 2003 TDI in the future. But if Honda/Toyota sold a Diesel in this country I'd be all over it. Every time I go looking at new cars, the TDI sportwagen grows on me more and more. How bad are the new TDIs to maintain now?
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Feb 1, 2011 19:39
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Autism Sundae posted:You have to pull the engine to check timing? I don't have to pull the engine to check the timing but I do have to pull it to inspect the timing chains. The A6 I have skipped timing on the highway and both banks are out of time with the crank so the next step is figuring out why the timing went south and then determining the damage (if any) to the valvetrain. If there's some good carnage I'll post some pics.
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Feb 2, 2011 02:53
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veedubfreak posted:Every time I go looking at new cars, the TDI sportwagen grows on me more and more. How bad are the new TDIs to maintain now? New TDI maintenance isn't much different from any of the other VW TDIs - more expensive oil and keeping on top of the scheduled services is about it.
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Feb 2, 2011 02:55
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my1999gsr posted:I don't have to pull the engine to check the timing but I do have to pull it to inspect the timing chains. The A6 I have skipped timing on the highway and both banks are out of time with the crank so the next step is figuring out why the timing went south and then determining the damage (if any) to the valvetrain. If there's some good carnage I'll post some pics. What kinds of things can go wrong with a timing chain? I thought the whole point of one was that it wouldn't wear out or stretch like a belt.
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Feb 2, 2011 03:24
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Went to get my B6 A4 aligned, and the guy told me "no can do, your upper control arms are shot". OK, makes sense since I'm pushing 100k Arizona miles. I'm going to do the replacement myself, parts are reasonable and it doesn't look terribly difficult. There is even a video on youtube by Bently showing all the steps. But should I just do the uppers, or go ahead and replace the lowers and tie rod ends while I'm at it? Do the lowers wear out? Anyone have experience in this area?
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Feb 2, 2011 06:55
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Captain Tact posted:Went to get my B6 A4 aligned, and the guy told me "no can do, your upper control arms are shot". OK, makes sense since I'm pushing 100k Arizona miles. I'm going to do the replacement myself, parts are reasonable and it doesn't look terribly difficult. There is even a video on youtube by Bently showing all the steps. Don't buy trouble - if there's no play in the lowers or the tie rods then leave them be. Replacing them isn't a terrible job but I'd rather be driving.
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Feb 3, 2011 00:23
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teh jhey posted:What kinds of things can go wrong with a timing chain? I thought the whole point of one was that it wouldn't wear out or stretch like a belt. Tranny and engine are out and separated so I could get a look at the timing array. Bank 2's intake cam hydraulic adjuster bolt was less than hand-tight so that explains why the int. and exhaust cams are out of phase. The next mystery is why bank 1's cams are out of phase since their bolts are at spec torque. I'd like to pull the head on bank 2 to determine if there's been valve contact with the piston. I can't see any with the boroscope but I can't rule it out. A leakdown or compression test are inconclusive because I can't get the int and exh valves closed at the same time. Warranty is calling the shots so I'm at their mercy. Also, I've had a couple of broken timing chains on the new VR6 Passats and there's a tech tip about stretched chains on a couple of the V6 Audis.
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Feb 3, 2011 00:29
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Drooling over this spares package: http://bringatrailer.com/2011/02/03/bat-exclusive-1985-vw-gti-imsa-race-project/
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Feb 4, 2011 19:00
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TrueChaos posted:Are there any common reasons that the CEL would be on for an '06 A4 2.0T? Sometimes it goes away for a while, and then it'll be back on. Dealer has no idea whats up. It's got ~130,000km on it, timing belt was done recently, brakes were done over the summer, all regular maintenance has been done on schedule at the dealership. I believe its had the diverter valve? (DV?) replaced once. It doesn't seem down on power, feels like it handles fine, fuel mileage is no worse than normal. Its an automatic, and as nothing seems to be wrong my parents aren't inclined to spend a whole lot of money diagnosing it, however in Ontario thats an instant fail on the emissions test. my1999gsr posted:Try removing the oil filler cap while the engine is running (but don't leave it off for long - the car will run like crap and then stall). If it was difficult to remove then odds are you've got a failed/failing PCV valve. What's your local Audi dealer? Turns out this was a sticky EGR valve, if anyone was curious. It'd stick for a bit, causing the CEL, occasionally work for a while, and then go back to sticking, which caused the on/off CEL stuff.
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Feb 5, 2011 03:53
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This is perhaps a dumb question, but I wanted to get an answer from another VW tech. My boyfriend took his MK 4 Golf (2003, I think) to the local dealership for an oil change. When he asked about regular maintenance on the brakes, they said that he should just wear them down to the point of having to replace the pads and rotors at the same time. Is that garbage advice or is that actually what VW says you should do? I have never heard of anyone recommending to wear anything out to that point, let alone your brakes.
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Feb 6, 2011 01:07
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VR Cowboy posted:This is perhaps a dumb question, but I wanted to get an answer from another VW tech. That's garbage advice.
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Feb 6, 2011 01:12
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wav3form posted:That's garbage advice. Thought so, won't be going back to that dealership.
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Feb 6, 2011 01:15
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VR Cowboy posted:This is perhaps a dumb question, but I wanted to get an answer from another VW tech. Typically that's just the way things work out. At the dealership level we must use OEM parts (unless specified by the customer) and we don't machine rotors any more so once the pads get worn down to the minimum we suggest replacing both the rotors and pads at once. VW brakes tend to leave a really heavy rust ridge on the extreme outer edge of the rotor so if you put new pads on a ridged rotor you can get all kinds of noise and wear issues that result in customer come-backs so we just replace pads and rotors at once.
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Feb 6, 2011 21:15
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wav3form posted:That's garbage advice. Not exactly "garbage" advice. In most cases if I'm replacing brakes because the pads are minimum or below then the rotors are usually is pretty poor shape anyway. Realistically I could re-use every rotor but cases where it was requested that I re-use them the customer ends up returning because of a noise or pulsation issue that was directly related to re-using old rotors. I know it sounds like a stealership scam to sell rotors but in all honesty my experience tells me that if your VW's pads are really low then your rotors are in poor shape too - I certainly don't make any extra money from recommending rotor replacement but I DO like to perform a repair that I know the customer will be happy with.
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Feb 6, 2011 21:23
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Dumb question: my A4 actually got itself stuck in snow the other day, ended up needing some friends to help push me out (embarrassing AWD failure  ).For future reference, will ESP fight against me (or for me?) when I'm attempting to haul myself out of thick snow? Part of me thinks I should disable it, because with it enabled, it keeps pumping brakes desperately, thinking I'm about to slide off the freeway and die or something.
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Feb 7, 2011 03:50
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movax posted:Dumb question: my A4 actually got itself stuck in snow the other day, ended up needing some friends to help push me out (embarrassing AWD failure If you got stuck in the snow with a quattro equipped car it was 100% your fault.
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Feb 7, 2011 06:41
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As far as I could tell ESP just makes the engine run in limp mode when it's detected that your wheels are spinning (tried it in a snowy parking lot once). It keeps you going, but you feel the power being severely cut down.
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Feb 7, 2011 07:01
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el topo posted:As far as I could tell ESP just makes the engine run in limp mode when it's detected that your wheels are spinning (tried it in a snowy parking lot once). It keeps you going, but you feel the power being severely cut down. ESP will also modulate the ABS on the slipping wheels, faking an LSD.
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Feb 7, 2011 07:48
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my1999gsr posted:Not exactly "garbage" advice. In most cases if I'm replacing brakes because the pads are minimum or below then the rotors are usually is pretty poor shape anyway. Realistically I could re-use every rotor but cases where it was requested that I re-use them the customer ends up returning because of a noise or pulsation issue that was directly related to re-using old rotors. I know it sounds like a stealership scam to sell rotors but in all honesty my experience tells me that if your VW's pads are really low then your rotors are in poor shape too - I certainly don't make any extra money from recommending rotor replacement but I DO like to perform a repair that I know the customer will be happy with. Ah, that does sounds sensible. Thank you for explaining that 
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Feb 7, 2011 16:01
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my1999gsr posted:Tranny and engine are out and separated so I could get a look at the timing array. Bank 2's intake cam hydraulic adjuster bolt was less than hand-tight so that explains why the int. and exhaust cams are out of phase. The next mystery is why bank 1's cams are out of phase since their bolts are at spec torque. I'd like to pull the head on bank 2 to determine if there's been valve contact with the piston. I can't see any with the boroscope but I can't rule it out. A leakdown or compression test are inconclusive because I can't get the int and exh valves closed at the same time. Warranty is calling the shots so I'm at their mercy. Also, I've had a couple of broken timing chains on the new VR6 Passats and there's a tech tip about stretched chains on a couple of the V6 Audis. Stretched chains on V6 Audis? Is this on the newer 3.0TFSI or one of the older motors?
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Feb 7, 2011 16:26
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my1999gsr posted:Not exactly "garbage" advice. In most cases if I'm replacing brakes because the pads are minimum or below then the rotors are usually is pretty poor shape anyway. Realistically I could re-use every rotor but cases where it was requested that I re-use them the customer ends up returning because of a noise or pulsation issue that was directly related to re-using old rotors. I know it sounds like a stealership scam to sell rotors but in all honesty my experience tells me that if your VW's pads are really low then your rotors are in poor shape too - I certainly don't make any extra money from recommending rotor replacement but I DO like to perform a repair that I know the customer will be happy with. This is something I wondered when I had mine in for service. Why won't they cut the rotors down? When I had my front pads actually go defective (wear item, can't warranty them, gently caress you VWoA) they were able to just turn the rotors and put new pads on. The pad actually came loose from the backing plate and was hanging about 2 inches when I noticed the issue. At least now my wheels don't turn black 3 days after washing them.
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Feb 7, 2011 16:40
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veedubfreak posted:Why won't they cut the rotors down? Thinner rotors heat up more quickly. Establishing the friction interface between pad and rotor can cause hotspots on the rotor, which later manifest themselves as brake pulsations because of metallurgical changes in the rotor material. And also if you're already in there it's not all that much more expensive to swap everything out... brakes are one part of my car that I'll never cheap out on.
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Feb 7, 2011 17:08
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:If you got stuck in the snow with a quattro equipped car it was 100% your fault. Yes, I drove myself into the lot, but it was ~3" of snow on top of gravel. I was expecting all of my wheels to happily cut through powdered snow and gain traction on gravel. I have all-seasons with a decent about tread life left, so I guess snow was just super-packed, or I was on a sheet of ice? quote:ESP will also modulate the ABS on the slipping wheels, faking an LSD. So leave it on when trying to escape a snowy prison?
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Feb 7, 2011 17:10
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Ok, if there was ice under there I'll let it slide (no pun intended) this time.
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Feb 7, 2011 17:12
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:Ok, if there was ice under there I'll let it slide (no pun intended) this time. Yeah, I'm going to spend some time after work today sliding around some more. I've only been through MI winter 2010 so far with this particular vehicle, where the only trouble I could get into was shutting off ESP and doing donuts/slides in empty parking lots 
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Feb 7, 2011 17:26
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I got a Lexus IS300 (Rear wheel drive) stuck this winter in 1" of snow max. on gravel. I should have backed all the way to the road in the previous tire tracks... instead I decided to turn around and backed into fresh snow. No weight in the truck, and I think the temperatute and dew point were just perfect. Backed into the fresh snow, went to pull forward and started spinning. The more I tried to rock it the more the friction melted the snow which then immediately turned to ice. I couldn't even push it out with my daughter at the wheel. I actually had to dig myself out through an inch of now solid ice, down to the gravel. That was the dumbest I have felt in a long time. And I feel dumb daily.
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Feb 7, 2011 18:17
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Fifth Gear did a segment where they show the Lamborghini (effectively Audi) ESP system in action, and I have to say it pretty much feels exactly the way Tiff describes it.
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Feb 7, 2011 20:17
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