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Bachtere posted:drat you Reaper: This poo poo is super stupid but I would still giggle away while painting it and give it to my mother for Christmas so she has to leave it on her mantle piece forever. e: I would also mount a swastika flag on the pole and give the monkey a swastika armband. Deal with this mother.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 05:12 |
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# ? Apr 20, 2024 00:12 |
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That ape needs to be added to every single banner pole regardless of army.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 06:33 |
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Calico Noose posted:That ape needs to be added to every single banner pole regardless of army. I'm picturing an eldar war walker with an ape on each leg.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 08:59 |
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Eldar Wrapelord
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 09:46 |
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I'm really hoping that was an accident and you didn't think about that name too hard.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 10:15 |
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Lately I've been using styrofoam insulation to make terrain by cutting it up with an exacto-knife. It's been pretty simple stuff so far, but I rather like this one. It's not super detailed and i should probably put better grass on it, but I like it. I also made a little lava flow out of it and cardboard. I spray painted it, which eats up the foam. For most surfaces this is bad, but for rocks and stuff, it makes it look better. Master Twig fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Feb 2, 2011 |
# ? Feb 2, 2011 23:32 |
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Carve some runes into the skull and add a few bloodstains to it and it'd be a perfect beastmen shrine.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 01:20 |
Master Twig posted:Lately I've been using styrofoam insulation to make terrain by cutting it up with an exacto-knife. It's been pretty simple stuff so far, but I rather like this one. It's not super detailed and i should probably put better grass on it, but I like it. If you want to get more serious about it I HIGHLY reccomend getting a wire foam cutter. My wife can knock out hills in a matter of a minute or 2
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 02:15 |
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Hey Bachtere (if you read this thread), those knights you ordered from Gamezone? How were they compared to the pictures on the website? Any loss of detail or anything? Cheers.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 04:32 |
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These guys? I think they were pretty much as seen in the preview pics. I didn't notice any loss of detail, though there is a kind of an overall softness(?) to the sculpting style that doesn't make the knights pop as well as they should have. GW's knights are athletes, these guys are chubby kids. Horrible mold lines though. And you have to assemble part of the horses head (where the reigns attach to the mouth area) and that leaves an ugly gap/seam. I also have their grail knights, they look good as well, details look sharp. Knights pop a lot more. And horse heads come in a single piece. So if I were you, I'd go straight for the grail knights. A little bit more ambitious painting project, more details etc, but better overall look.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 05:49 |
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Thanks Bachtere. I'm actually after their Wood Elf characters, just wanted to know what the company's sculpt quality was like overall.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 06:12 |
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Master Twig posted:I think what this needs is more texture. Blend the skull into the base with sand and a couple of different sizes of gravel, do the same for the ribs. (I'm not sure if it's supposed to be actual huge bones or stones carved to look like bone, but I'd go with the second because it's slightly less goofy). The lava looks rad though.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 11:26 |
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Master Twig posted:
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 17:49 |
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Finally getting back to working on my Salamanders: Three more Assault Terminators to go and then it's off to painting a million tanks.
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 17:53 |
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Did you just use a red wash for the sand? I like the contrast.
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 18:47 |
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Xombie posted:Did you just use a red wash for the sand? I like the contrast. Thanks, I wanted something to balance the heavy green and darker tones. It was all painted using a 70/30 mix of Blazing Orange and water, allowing for the lighter tips of the gravel to still show, then drybrushed a few times with Bleached Bone. Quick and easy, giving a blasted desert-world look.
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 19:07 |
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I know it's basically a cliche for me to say it but those base rims Other than that I think they look pretty sweet. Nice to see you painting again.
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 19:13 |
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I'm thinking of getting into collecting and painting some 40k minis. I was wondering which paints where best for someone starting out, the GW paints or the P3? P3 seems to be cheaper, but which would give me better bang for my hard earned monies?
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 23:59 |
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Greggorian posted:I'm thinking of getting into collecting and painting some 40k minis. I was wondering which paints where best for someone starting out, the GW paints or the P3? P3 seems to be cheaper, but which would give me better bang for my hard earned monies? I hear nothing but good things about P3, but I've never even seen their paints for sale anywhere. The GW washes are incredible though, and are pretty much talent in a bottle. I highly recommend them.
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 00:03 |
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GW washes are boss. A must pick up. GW's metallic paints are also awesome. The foundation paints are pretty good too. I really don't like P3 paints for one reason: their stupid rear end lids that always leave you with some paint on your thumb. I personally like Reaper the best, cheaper than both GW and P3, come in dropper bottles, and every color is part of a triad, which includes a base, highlight, and shade color.
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 01:47 |
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SRM posted:I hear nothing but good things about P3, but I've never even seen their paints for sale anywhere. The GW washes are incredible though, and are pretty much talent in a bottle. I highly recommend them. I know where you can get some P3 paints locally. Check yo emails.
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 08:03 |
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Bachtere posted:I really don't like P3 paints for one reason: their stupid rear end lids that always leave you with some paint on your thumb. quote:I personally like Reaper the best, cheaper than both GW and P3, come in dropper bottles, and every color is part of a triad, which includes a base, highlight, and shade color. http://www.reapermini.com/Paints
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 09:17 |
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Bachtere posted:and every color is part of a triad, which includes a base, highlight, and shade color. That is exactly what I need right now; I'm having difficulty choosing/mixing shade and highlight colors. With more experience I'm sure I'll be able to eyeball it better, but being able have some prechosen depth colors for a given paint sounds awesome.
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 09:40 |
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So after a long break (about 18 months) I've decided to warham again and am going through the wonderful period where I wonder why my paints from 1997 are still good while those from 2007 are all dried out. Brightened up immensely when I realised that Vallejo's Game Colour paints are the same shades as Citadel, come in more per bottle, have a dropper, are 2/3rds the price and are available on Maelstrom (which makes them 1/3rd Aus retail prices vs Citadel). What I need some advice with are brushes. Mine are older Windsor and Newton starter brushes that are okay, but I'm not sure how long they'll last. Was thinking of picking up Citadel fine detail, detail, standard and base brushes, but from memory they're average quality at best. Have they gotten any better in the last couple of years, or are there other brushes that I can grab from Maelstrom that people would recommend?
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 15:35 |
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IDK what Maelstrom carries, but the GW brushes aren't half bad, just kinda pricy for what they are. Vallejo makes decent kolinsky sable brushes that I like, while I'm not a fan of Reaper's brush line. Winsor and Newton series 7 are the goon recommendation, but they're extremely pricey unless you hold out for a half-off sale at a big art supply website.
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 15:59 |
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I wouldn't normally recommend GW brushes, but their drybrushes actually are good.
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 16:19 |
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GW's stippling brush, however, is COMPLETE AND UTTER poo poo. I swear the bristles feel like they are made of compressed straw, and no amount of soaking in water makes them any less stiff. Just cut down a cheap-o drybrush if you need one.
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 18:04 |
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Anyone have any tips for painting red brick? I figure I could just do mechite red followed by a black/brown wash
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 21:21 |
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I use mech red and vermin brown, highlight with vermin brown+ bleached bone, extreme highlight pure bleached bone, wash with devlan mud, worked pretty well.
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# ? Feb 5, 2011 23:05 |
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Wooo! The crew is almost done. I love the 80s.
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 05:37 |
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theironjef posted:
And Exalted, apparently! (Looks great!)
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 05:44 |
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theironjef posted:
Ho-ly gently caress! That is amazing.
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 05:50 |
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Goddamnit, now I wanna do Dark Eldar too.
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 10:46 |
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I seem to do most of my painting late at night. Here is my latest miniatures. British 3.7" Heavy Anti-Aircraft guns. These baby's didn't get much use and only got to shoot at ground targets when they Germans broke through. Was thinking of using them in a French Early war Reservist list and for a US Para list for Market Garden. In game terms they are like an 88mm guns (actually 94mm) in all the stats except for no gun shield. The crew were not trained in front line combat so are only ever Confident Trained.
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 11:00 |
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theironjef posted:
The best fun you will have with this is playing against a serious period piece style IG army.
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 13:09 |
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theironjef posted:
Um, I don't know if I can even like this ironically. It's just too: Which I do get is the point, but still, yuck. Technically well executed though.
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 15:49 |
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That is the sickest van, holy poo poo.
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 16:01 |
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theironjef posted:
needs an airbrushed wizard on there somewhere
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 16:13 |
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Does anyone have any tips for painting SM vehicle headlights? They are a royal pain in the arse and never end up looking like lights.
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 17:54 |
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# ? Apr 20, 2024 00:12 |
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Cover them in greenstuff and play Nurgle. Worked for me.
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# ? Feb 6, 2011 18:04 |