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This quote has been censored as per order of Commissar Paint Vagrant(see below) posted:This. Mixing more blue than yellow makes the product a little firmer. I'm going to try to hit [censored][censored]for some [censored][censored]in the hopes of making the bitz a little easier to clean mold lines from, but if I had to stick with just [censored]I'd still be ok. Oh yeah I forgot that was your product test pictorial. HEY! You never posted the final product pictures. I guess being near death from flu is an ok excuse...for now. You might also want to test out Might Putty. The working times are stupidly short if you are trying to model with it but for casting like you are trying it might be just what you need. Plus it relatively cheap and available all over the place. \ [img]http://img.waffleimages.com/337fb96b9837248da24097ad8bb47d1e769dc4ab/billymays1[1].png[/img] Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Feb 20, 2011 |
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Feb 20, 2011 00:50
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You guys are welcome to talk casting all you want, but please stop mentioning casting specific GW IP poo poo. It would be a shame to get this thread trashed
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Feb 20, 2011 01:01
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Speaking of casting, in my daily rummaging through the trash at work, I found a couple cans of resin. I'm pretty sure it will be a lifetime supply for me, but it needs some kind of hardening liquid. What is this and should I be able to find it at a hardware store? Does resin have a shelf life?
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Feb 20, 2011 01:05
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Dagon posted:Speaking of casting, in my daily rummaging through the trash at work, I found a couple cans of resin. I'm pretty sure it will be a lifetime supply for me, but it needs some kind of hardening liquid. What is this and should I be able to find it at a hardware store? Does resin have a shelf life? Pretty certain the hardener will be specific to that resin, you might get lucky and chance upon a hardener that works but chances are you'll spend more money trying them out than you would just buying new. They've probably been thrown out because someone ran out of hardener before they ran out of resin 
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Feb 20, 2011 01:06
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PaintVagrant posted:Fixed. On other topics: I'm looking to start on my marines proper (instead of just the scouts.) My problem with painting has always been color selection. I like the look of Tausept Ochre for their overall color; sepia wash seems to help darken the crevices and the like, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get decent highlights onto it that don't look like rear end. I'll start up a new test mini this week for visuals + criticism/advice, but I was hoping that somebody could point me towards some good colors/techniques from the get go. Tadhg fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Feb 20, 2011 |
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Feb 20, 2011 01:25
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Tadhg posted:Makin' casts up in this bitch For more precise casting, try clamping the two mold halves together for both thinner mold lines and less "jog" between the halves (if that's even a problem for you). As for your Tausept highlight woes, add Menoth White Highlight. Do it.
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Feb 20, 2011 01:43
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So what's the big difference between green stuff and brown stuff for casting/molding? Is brown stuff just firmer, does it hold detail better, or what?
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Feb 20, 2011 01:47
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Tadhg posted:Fixed. 
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Feb 20, 2011 01:54
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Brown Stuff: Holds edges very well. Better for clean lines, mechanical or artificial shapes. Green Stuff: Slightly easier to work with. Better for organic or smooth shapes. Cures more flexible than brown stuff, which has advantages. Both: can be sanded, filed, tapped, drilled, cut or milled. If I was going to cast with either, I'd probably go with brown stuff since it cures significantly more rigid than green. Brown doesn't really hold detail any better, but certain details (hard edges, mechanical shapes) are better suited for it. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Feb 20, 2011 |
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Feb 20, 2011 01:54
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Alright, cool! I'll pick some up if I ever get around to getting some insta-mold or whatever it's called.
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Feb 20, 2011 02:01
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Honestly, if I was using insta-mold, I'd just use two-part resin to fill the mold cavity. The resin itself is cheap as hell, and it wouldn't be hard to alter the mold to allow for a pour: simply glue a plastic rod to a part of the item to be molded so that it sticks out of the mold when it's created, de-mold and then fill. The only problem I could see arise from this is that when two-part resin reacts, it kicks off a significant level of heat, which may or may not cause the insta-mold to melt, given its low melting point.
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Feb 20, 2011 02:09
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You can also use ProCreate since it holds detail well and is very rigid when dry. It's also extremely light. And if you want to test your molds before you use hard resin you can make a mold out of ProCreate and then cast a miniature/bit/whatever in ProCreate.
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Feb 20, 2011 02:56
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I have been searching for good leaves to use, and I found http://www.skullcrafts.com/leaf_scatter.htm. Its obviously just birch pod seeds that have been pre-painted, it may come in handy. I need some because I live in a city and I couldn't identify a birch if my life depended on it, even if it weren't the middle of winter.
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Feb 20, 2011 02:59
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Acidix posted:I have been searching for good leaves to use, and I found http://www.skullcrafts.com/leaf_scatter.htm. Its obviously just birch pod seeds that have been pre-painted, it may come in handy. I need some because I live in a city and I couldn't identify a birch if my life depended on it, even if it weren't the middle of winter. Birch trees are the ones with the very thin whiteish bark that peels off. One of the easier trees to identify.
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Feb 20, 2011 03:04
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ghetto wormhole posted:Birch trees are the ones with the very thin whiteish bark that peels off. One of the easier trees to identify. I'm sad that even this is news to me.
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Feb 20, 2011 03:36
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Skullcrafts posted:All materials are sterilized through a series of processes that include steaming and baking. Every attempt has been made to eliminate the possibiliies of allergic reactions, although care should be observed when handling the products. Please keep all materials in the containers and sealed when not in use and wear protective gloves whenever possible. Warhammer: Allergic To The Great Outdoors
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Feb 20, 2011 07:38
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I love me some Stormtroopers, yes I do:    
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Feb 20, 2011 08:58
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SRM posted:It seems the same guy is in focus in all three of these, the one that's  . I do like the plasma gun and auspex guy tons.
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Feb 20, 2011 09:28
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Bavius posted:It seems the same guy is in focus in all three of these, the one that's Yeah, I didn't notice that until after I posted them. What can I say, the camera loves Corporal
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Feb 20, 2011 09:41
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SRM posted:Yeah, I didn't notice that until after I posted them. What can I say, the camera loves Corporal He's just so enthralled by the coming apocalypse.
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Feb 20, 2011 09:48
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ghetto wormhole posted:Birch trees are the ones with the very thin whiteish bark that peels off. One of the easier trees to identify. My wife has one of those containers of pretzel sticks you get at Costco like 1/2 full of those drat things. When she gets back tomorrow I can ask her how much she would want for some of them if you would like.
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Feb 20, 2011 10:47
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So after spending the weekend shoveling dirt around in the sun instead of playing with little plastic mans, we finally went down too a couple of stores to look for some gesso and sprays to experiment with. Good news everyone! in Aus, Bunnings carries Gesso for like $10 a pot and we picked up some $9 spray cans. I tried out the cheap matte black spray from White Knight and it worked like a charm, even though it is like 200 million percent humidity here at the moment I had no dramas at all, I am really chuffed it went on better than GW stuff. Will muck about with the gesso later in the week when I get a spare night.  
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Feb 20, 2011 11:11
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Sole.Sushi posted:As for your Tausept highlight woes, add Menoth White Highlight. No immediate access to P3 paints- FLGS carries Citadel, VMC & VGC, and a crapton of "real modeling" paints that will kill me from fumes. Is this a particular shade that can be found elsewhere, or is it particular to P3? Also, looks a little brighter than I would think to use. You trolling me, Sushi?
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Feb 20, 2011 11:39
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Killer_Bees! posted:So after spending the weekend shoveling dirt around in the sun instead of playing with little plastic mans, we finally went down too a couple of stores to look for some gesso and sprays to experiment with. Good news everyone! in Aus, Bunnings carries Gesso for like $10 a pot and we picked up some $9 spray cans. I tried out the cheap matte black spray from White Knight and it worked like a charm, even though it is like 200 million percent humidity here at the moment I had no dramas at all, I am really chuffed it went on better than GW stuff. Will muck about with the gesso later in the week when I get a spare night. IF you ever go to use a white spray, avoid White Knight's. I've had two ans, and both have ended up loving up on me. Paint splattering rather than spraying out of the can on to your models is not fun. Their black is solid as though, probably our equivalent to Krylon as far as availability goes.
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Feb 20, 2011 12:20
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Uber Kosh posted:IF you ever go to use a white spray, avoid White Knight's. I've had two ans, and both have ended up loving up on me. Paint splattering rather than spraying out of the can on to your models is not fun. I've used White Knight...white without any problems. Might have gone on a bit thick but I think that's more my fault than anything.
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Feb 20, 2011 15:18
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Killer_Bees! posted:That's the grossest product name I've ever seen.
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Feb 20, 2011 20:19
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Bought this in October, this is how long it takes me to paint things  I have never done anything this big before and its my first go at verdigris and rust, I am fairly happy with it, just need to do the base, the part I always dread. .jpg)
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Feb 20, 2011 22:03
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AnUninvitedGuest posted:So my Just wanted to bring this back to the front and see if I could get a response.
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Feb 20, 2011 22:14
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GIRLFRIEND
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AnUninvitedGuest posted:Just wanted to bring this back to the front and see if I could get a response. If it helps, I'm pretty sure that was HKR who made the spraying booth.
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Feb 20, 2011 22:20
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Bought this in October, this is how long it takes me to paint things Looks good. I like that banner too. Did you assemble it all together then paint, or paint it in separate parts? I just bought one, wondering how to go about it.
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Feb 20, 2011 22:33
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Bachtere posted:Looks good. I like that banner too. Trying to paint it assembled will be a sure way to insanity, follow this guide: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?catId=&categoryId=§ion=&pIndex=0&aId=6000022a&start=1&multiPageMode=true
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Feb 20, 2011 23:04
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enri posted:Pretty certain the hardener will be specific to that resin, you might get lucky and chance upon a hardener that works but chances are you'll spend more money trying them out than you would just buying new. I think I found the right stuff, methyl something something peroxide, at walmart of all places. Glopped some resin in a container, added a drop of the hardener and mixed it up - next day, its pretty solid. Now to make a mold of something and see if it will actually work.
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Feb 20, 2011 23:56
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Dear god this is going to be difficult to paint. Turned out pretty close to what I had in my head, though.   
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Feb 21, 2011 00:39
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Dagon posted:I think I found the right stuff, methyl something something peroxide, at walmart of all places. Glopped some resin in a container, added a drop of the hardener and mixed it up - next day, its pretty solid. Now to make a mold of something and see if it will actually work. Be careful about getting your ratios right. If it's off, you can have resin that will still be tacky and giving off fumes for months. A friend has some resin "crystals" that he made for terrain that slowly droop/melt a little more each year.
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Feb 21, 2011 00:39
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just checkin' in, i guess. I found out that pan glue works with both plastics and pink foam, and started pushing through to the torso modeling phase.  After I got to this point I decideded I should work out the positioning of the arms before I went much further. This unfortunately also involves modelling the arms. Here's an in-progress of the "off-hand" arm, which has a Gaze of Mork (the big zzap gun thing) and 3 supa-rokkits. I still need to slap a couple of big shootas on there somewhere and extend/armor/loot the arm a little more.  
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Feb 21, 2011 01:18
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Looks like it's going to be awesome. I am curious why you're using Mr. Potato Head in there when you aren't actually making a potato-head stompa. The way that he's in there, a sturdy plastic cup looks like it would have done just as good a job. Also, Fix, that's an inspired kitbash. I love it, and the pylon greeble theme throughout for the psykers is something I may steal. What's the greenstuff blob in the middle of the base for? Hard to tell with the lighting.
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Feb 21, 2011 01:21
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Tadhg posted:What's the greenstuff blob in the middle of the base for? Hard to tell with the lighting. It's pinning down the giant fuckoff post that thing is sitting on. Those legs are far too fragile and apt to bend and snap. Making it so it doesn't look like a giant fuckoff post is going to be an interesting trick.
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Feb 21, 2011 01:32
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Fix posted:It's pinning down the giant fuckoff post that thing is sitting on. Those legs are far too fragile and apt to bend and snap. Making it so it doesn't look like a giant fuckoff post is going to be an interesting trick. Maybe his unholy uterus is full of ectoplasm and his water just broke, unleashing a horrendous torrent of unameable fluids and energies onto the ground below him--so you paint it bright neon like a waterfall of fluid and by hanging a lampshade on it, it becomes invisible? Or he could be part horse kroot.
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Feb 21, 2011 01:57
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loving REPOSTING         gently caress THIS GAY EARTH I'M DONE
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Feb 21, 2011 01:59
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That Ad Mech thing owns. Good job, Fix.
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Feb 21, 2011 02:37
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