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FatCow posted:It was a 2001 Miata motor. That cylinder actually came up 180psi on a compression test. is that at full load you had 14:1 or what? Just curious.. I run the E30 at almost 15:1 up til 80kpa, then it goes to the 13's and 12's as boost comes in. It seems safe, no melty stuff.. I'd really prefer to avoid it though. If you find any contributing factors let us know.
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# ? Mar 6, 2011 23:53 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 15:06 |
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MrZig posted:Crosspost from the Supermotard thread in CA. My DRZ400SM blew up on me 6 days after buying it from a guy. Dropped a valve and the entire top end is fubar! Haha, you're on BCSB, too, aren't you? Black DRZ from Vic?
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# ? Mar 7, 2011 06:52 |
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KaiserBen posted:
That looks expensive. e90 M3 engine?
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# ? Mar 7, 2011 07:01 |
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Captain McAllister posted:Haha, you're on BCSB, too, aren't you? Black DRZ from Vic? Yes sir. I bought it from Vic, and brought it back home to Kelowna. Whats your user name there? And where are ya from?
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# ? Mar 7, 2011 07:19 |
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EightBit posted:Where the gently caress you get hydrazine? http://www.archchemicals.com/Fed/HDR/Products/Propellants/responsiblecare.htm Seems available to me... I know a chemist or two. I'll see what it would take to get some. ;-)
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# ? Mar 7, 2011 09:36 |
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MrZig posted:Yes sir. I bought it from Vic, and brought it back home to Kelowna. Whats your user name there? And where are ya from? Haha, awesome! I go by 'Boondock Saint' on BCSB. I grew up in Vic, and am in Van now. It's pretty lovely that bike blew up on you, it looks like it was pretty nicely set up. I was looking at DRZs, but my first bike was a TW-200, so I wanted more of a sportbike...ended up with a Honda 599. Err, content, so I'm not derailing: These are from work. I probably have more, but don't know where they all got to. The bottom saw should (obviously) look like the top one. The power head fell off while the guy was using it, and it was dangling by the kill switch cord & throttle cable. The gearhead and blade on the left are supposed be one with the piece on the right. That driveshaft is supposed to run straight down into the gearhead...in short, it came off with impressive force. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 11:17 on Mar 7, 2011 |
# ? Mar 7, 2011 11:06 |
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Captain McAllister posted:Err, content, so I'm not derailing: Saw specifically designed to cut down trees with a brush blade installed... and then used to cut down trees. And the wrong guard is on for that blade.
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# ? Mar 7, 2011 12:51 |
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chem42 posted:That looks expensive. e90 M3 engine? E39 M5, and yes, expensive. Fortunately it's not out of my car. Edit: Bonus pictures of the piston from that cylinder (and some bits of the block) Rod bearings off of the other piston on that crank throw: Former oil squirter for that piston: KaiserBen fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Mar 7, 2011 |
# ? Mar 7, 2011 14:30 |
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KaiserBen posted:E39 M5, and yes, expensive. Fortunately it's not out of my car. "Some of it's in there... with him." "What?" "I couldn't separate it."
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# ? Mar 7, 2011 17:04 |
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KaiserBen posted:
you obviously do not use Motul oil.
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# ? Mar 7, 2011 18:27 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:you obviously do not use Motul oil. My oil is so advanced Motul doesn't even make the right weight Shame none of it got to cylinder 5
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# ? Mar 7, 2011 21:13 |
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That's what you get for buying 4-cylinder oil.
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# ? Mar 8, 2011 01:56 |
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If anyone can figure this one out, I'll be impressed: I've never seen, read, heard of a failure of anything like this. That is the Exhaust Cam (Stock RB25DET), above cylinder 2. Friends Car, pulled the rocker cover last night. Specs: Nissan R32 Skyline GT-ST Swapped R33 RB25DET: -Forged Internals -Larger Low Mount Turbo -GTR Oil Pump -Retuned on Nistune -~230kW Obvious signs of seized cam bearing(s) are non-existent (scoring, colour, slop). Failure does not have radial direction marks and failure through torsional shear is not apparent. KaiserBen posted:
Want to sell me the throttle bodies? MisterSparkle fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Mar 8, 2011 |
# ? Mar 8, 2011 05:38 |
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Skyssx posted:Saw specifically designed to cut down trees with a brush blade installed... and then used to cut down trees. And the wrong guard is on for that blade. We use them for non-woody plants etc. Not used for cutting down trees - we find those guards stop about 90% of the stuff coming at you. Are there different/better ones? Do you work for Stihl? ^^^ Table breakage!
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# ? Mar 8, 2011 05:40 |
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MisterSparkle posted:If anyone can figure this one out, I'll be impressed:
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# ? Mar 8, 2011 07:01 |
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Fire Storm posted:Was the missing section there or was it completely missing? (With something that weird, I have to ask) Nah, it was there (removed to show failure grain). Story goes: Car had started whining a little from what they thought was the CAS bearing, the mechanic said it was not a problem and they ordered a new CAS. Driving along and heard what can only be described as a metal bang noise, car lost power, was able to get it restarted once but was rough and poo poo. Replaced CAS and used my consult cable to clear all error codes, no love, we towed it back to the garage and in the tear-down found this. Gonna have a look with a boroscope over the weekend and see if we bent any valved or dinged the pistons. If not: Replace cam, compression check >> run like that If damage: Pull engine, junk, put in a new one.
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# ? Mar 8, 2011 08:37 |
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MisterSparkle posted:Nah, it was there (removed to show failure grain). Don't junk it, for see how much abuse it will take till it really becomes a horrible mechanical failure! Fire it up and rev the balls off of it.
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# ? Mar 8, 2011 09:54 |
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Captain McAllister posted:We use them for non-woody plants etc. Not used for cutting down trees - we find those guards stop about 90% of the stuff coming at you. Are there different/better ones? Do you work for Stihl? Sorry, I automatically assume broken Stihl stuff has been horribly abused. I work at a Stihl dealer in Ohio that serves several large commercial organizations. Virtually every day in the summer I get to hear "warranty, warranty, warranty!" In the U.S., Stihl doesn't offer the two edged blade, only 3, 4 and 8. I've asked why, but my distributor either doesn't know, or won't divulge the answer. European Stihls can be equipped with a two-edged blade and a special guard just for that blade. It attaches about a foot up the cutter shaft and is ellipsoid in shape. I'll try to look up the part at work today.
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# ? Mar 8, 2011 13:33 |
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We can get those scrub knives in Australia too- Looks like they do one hell of a job on blackberrys tho from that photo! Might have to invest in one or two for work! Im currently tearing down a 1HD-T motor from a 92 toyota landcruiser thats had a big end bearing delaminate. Will see what i get from that and whether much is damaged.
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# ? Mar 8, 2011 14:00 |
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The part number for the two-edged blade deflector is 4128 713 4500. The older version is 4119 710 8105, but I doubt that will work with your saw. Still looking for a good picture. You put this thing on with the guard I listed. http://uk.catalog.stihl.com/katalog/produkt/INT254/Shredder+guard.html There. Jesus. Skyssx fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Mar 8, 2011 |
# ? Mar 8, 2011 14:55 |
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FatCow posted:Melted all 4 pistons and I think burnt some valves a bit. How in gods name did I drive an hour home on this. KaiserBen posted:
quote:Oh. Oops.
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# ? Mar 9, 2011 04:04 |
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MisterSparkle posted:If anyone can figure this one out, I'll be impressed: I have a really hard time figuring out how this could have happened unless something caused the valves or cam followers to seize, allowing one or both lobes to bind up against the seized followers and shear the cam. If the cam sheared on its own.. what the gently caress?
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# ? Mar 9, 2011 04:14 |
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MisterSparkle posted:If anyone can figure this one out, I'll be impressed:
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# ? Mar 9, 2011 04:48 |
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MisterSparkle posted:Want to sell me the throttle bodies? Email me at username at cox.net. Do you want the actuating servo as well? BTW, I'd wager on leftover casting stress, exacerbated by age and wear, in that cam. Just my bet, given the break and the timing, and the typical metallurgy of such castings (ie: as cheap as possible). ' Today's carnage pic from that poor S62: Edit to add: Even the oilpan didn't escape damage: KaiserBen fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Mar 9, 2011 |
# ? Mar 9, 2011 04:51 |
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Near where I work there is a small auto repair shop. I hear an explosion so loud I run outside expecting the place to be engulfed in flames. Nope, just a couple guys standing around a mid 90s firebird scratching their heads.
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# ? Mar 9, 2011 05:36 |
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Revolvyerom posted:I would imagine that all the little indicators that the world has just ended, underneath your hood, would make that a very uncomfortable, wince-filled drive It's melted not chipped, the parts of the piston that were there are fertilizing the grass at VIR now.
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# ? Mar 9, 2011 05:50 |
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honda whisperer posted:Near where I work there is a small auto repair shop. I hear an explosion so loud I run outside expecting the place to be engulfed in flames. Nope, just a couple guys standing around a mid 90s firebird scratching their heads. I seriously thought my engine was going to be in more than one piece, judging by how it sounded when it went. Just a cartoon-level of peeled muffler.
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# ? Mar 9, 2011 08:41 |
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Revolvyerom posted:My old 300ZX (not the sexy generation) did that to me when the pin backed itself off the rotor, allowing it to cease rotating. The result? Unburnt gas pumped straight into the hot exhaust, by route of the turbo housing. My F-150 had a kill switch on the drivers side kickpanel installed by the previous owner. I.. guess they meant it to be an anti-theft device, except it was pretty visible and I'd bump it with my foot from time to time. Well, it was carbureted. And the switch cut power to the ignition system. I learned really quick that it was a good idea to put it in neutral and let the engine stop spinning before turning the switch back on. Peeled the muffler apart just like that photo, and I just about shat myself.
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# ? Mar 9, 2011 09:24 |
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Im stripping the bottom end of my mates 1HD-T powered 80 series landcruiser (4.2L turbo diesel inline 6) after its big end bearings self destructed. Got the sump off tonight, Found this: Bit of snot on the filter, but nothing higher. Lot of metal there... Tomorrow, i'll get a socket to suit those wierd arse bolts (what are they? Triple squares?) and see what the bearings themselves look like!
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# ? Mar 9, 2011 11:45 |
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They are likely just 12 point hex. Pretty common on head/main bolts. Stick a 12 point socket on them and see if it's tight.
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# ? Mar 9, 2011 14:09 |
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the_reject posted:The only time I've ever seen anything remotely like this was on a 300TD turbodiesel that the owner tried doing his own valve adjustment. He got so far as mal-adjusting the clearance on cylinder 1, realized he was out of his league, put it back together, and hit the starter. On the first revolution, valves and pistons shook hands and the cam broke exactly like what you have pictured. No torsional or radial shear marks, no large crystalline structure in the cast iron indicating poor casting - it just plain fuckin' broke the camshaft. I don't know...can't figure it out. More information: -The Exhaust Cam Gear is ~3 teeth out, no idea if this was before...or after said failure -I was wrong about the location of the break (it is the second lobe of #1 and first lobe at #2). -The failure was at the machining start for the bearings at these locations -Tappets spin freely (not that doesn't indicated a seized lifter) and there are no marks on them from say, resistance against the cam. -the end section of the cam appears free from binding in any of the bearings (although it is cold now, so who knows) MisterSparkle fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Mar 10, 2011 |
# ? Mar 10, 2011 00:48 |
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Further to my Big end adventures. Got em out today. I recon you could describe these as "Stuffed" #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 its lightly scored teh crank on #2, but not in a big way, so we're going to try a technique used in Sprint Cars many moons back- Throw a set of standard bearings in, Run em for 10K kms, let em scrape the crank smooth again, Rip em out, throw em away and replace them with a new set and keep an eye on the motor. Might work, Or i might be back into the bottom end in 20K kms cos its got a knock again!
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# ? Mar 10, 2011 07:52 |
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All from a '95 Z28.
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# ? Mar 10, 2011 17:34 |
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Upon reflection, building in a failsafe of the starter housing being less strong than one of the conrods is actually a really good idea. I'd be stunned if it was intentional. It should be.
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# ? Mar 10, 2011 20:23 |
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Ferremit posted:its lightly scored teh crank on #2, but not in a big way, so we're going to try a technique used in Sprint Cars many moons back- Throw a set of standard bearings in, Run em for 10K kms, let em scrape the crank smooth again, Rip em out, throw em away and replace them with a new set and keep an eye on the motor. That'll work on my crank, right? :p
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# ? Mar 11, 2011 02:21 |
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Ferremit posted:its lightly scored teh crank on #2, but not in a big way, so we're going to try a technique used in Sprint Cars many moons back- Throw a set of standard bearings in, Run em for 10K kms, let em scrape the crank smooth again, Rip em out, throw em away and replace them with a new set and keep an eye on the motor. I did that with a Tercel for a couple of years, the PO ran it out of oil and it started knocking lightly on one cylinder. So i'd drop the oil pan every 6 months and put one new rod bearing in on cylinder 2 and keep driving the poo poo out of it. Finally got rid of it after the clutch went because I couldn't justify doing that without replacing the engine and I just couldn't justify that for the shape of the car.
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# ? Mar 11, 2011 03:58 |
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Sorry, no pics for this but a TT came in on the hook early this week. Customer said that the car was running fine on the highway, the oil light started flashing, and the engine started making a loud noise so he pulled over and called for a tow. When I spoke the the tow truck driver he laughed and told me that the customer had told him that the oil light came on and he continued to drive for another 40 minutes before the engine quit. The car wouldn't start or even turn over - I could only hear the starter grunt but nothing else. Once I had the car on my lift I found a hole in the oil pan (obviously from an impact) and the whole undercarriage was covered in oil. I could see into the oil pan through the hole and it was pretty obvious that something terrible had happened - there were piles of what looked like tinfoil in there. With the oil pan removed it became obvious what had happened - the engine had starved for oil and welded the big end of cylinder 1's connecting rod right to the the crank. The tinfoil in the pan was the remains of the main and rod bearings. The top of the motor had oil-starved which ruined the cams and head plus the turbo had about 1/4" of radial play so it was also destroyed. My service advisor called the customer with the early estimate (a cool $12,000) and the customer told her that the reason he didn't stop was because it was snowing too hard and he didn't want to stop.
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# ? Mar 12, 2011 00:07 |
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Ran into a Cummins 5.9l TD that threw the #1 connecting rod, took out the camshaft (snapped it in two) and put two holes in the block
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# ? Mar 12, 2011 00:52 |
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my1999gsr posted:My service advisor called the customer with the early estimate (a cool $12,000) and the customer told her that the reason he didn't stop was because it was snowing too hard and he didn't want to stop. That's quite a "never give up, never think things through" attitude... I must say, though, I'm surprised at how much that engine costs.
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# ? Mar 12, 2011 05:17 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 15:06 |
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el topo posted:That's quite a "never give up, never think things through" attitude... I must say, though, I'm surprised at how much that engine costs. Well you have to figure in markup + labor. A (new) crate engine's probably only $5-6k.
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# ? Mar 12, 2011 05:31 |