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Your Beakie marine looks like it actually has a beak. Space Hawks.
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Mar 10, 2011 22:34
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So I am running out of Chaos Black. What kinds of GW paints should I get when I am at my local comic store next time? I primarily focus on orks, and sadly the only hobby store that sells all the diffrent brands of paints is one town over, so GW paints are really my only option  Catachan green, what I have been using for my orks, does seem to give a descent muddy-green tone that comes out better after drybrushing with Goblin Green. Still, I get tired of the catachan green tone and wonder if theres any other greens that work well with them. Also, any general swatches that go well in general?
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Mar 10, 2011 22:35
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Miles O'Brian posted:Your Beakie marine looks like it actually has a beak. Space Hawks. It's more red in person with a thin orange highlight line, but I was trying to emulate the Wulfen symbol of Bran Redmaw more than anything.  It does look quite beakish there. . . Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Mar 10, 2011 |
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Mar 10, 2011 22:40
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Hell Diver posted:It's more red in person with a thin orange highlight line, but I was trying to emulate the Wulfen symbol of Bran Redmaw more than anything.  It's a Duckwolf. It's Quackus Duckborn. 
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Mar 10, 2011 23:35
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Milkbags posted:So I am running out of Chaos Black. I am not sure what style you are going for ascetically. I always liked the more comic book contrast in my orks. The way I paint my skin is shamefully easy. Scorpion Green base, wash black. Though now I use payne's grey but it is basically a super dark blue, bet you can't see a difference from the red guys and the yellow one. Here is a picture. 
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Mar 11, 2011 00:06
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will blow your mind.
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I saw that beakie Marine and thought "SPACE PUFFINS"
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Mar 11, 2011 00:07
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 HUGE TBP POST INCOMING I improvised a lightbox yesterday and took a bunch of pictures of stuff I've been working on lately. Most of the painted stuff is still in progress and some still need lots of work. The Mercenary Marines [working name] The Mercs are a small corporation running independent of the Imperium, based on a planet whose surface was ravaged by exterminatus. What remains is a barren wasteland of rock and dirty water, littered in ruins and the remnants of ancient battles (think Fallout). The marines don't follow any of the Imperial customs, such as the Imperial Cult, Ad Mech, "for the Emprah!", etc. Instead, they trade and scavenge equipment, openly deal with xenos and heretics, and sell their firepower to the highest bidder. They found ways for regular people to use power armor using thin exo-suits and neural implants. Although they maintain an armory and produce their own weapons and armor, a marine's equipment depends on what they can afford. There are three main "classes" in the Merc hierarchy, dictated by armor color. Troopers are khaki, members of The Armoury (vehicle operators) are green, officers are jet black and Terminators are grey. The soldiers are composed of ex-patriots, former Astartes, criminals, professional mercenaries and a few xenos.  These scouts are the disembarked version of the squad from the LS Storm box (still needs a pilot). I still have to finish some of the faces and repaint the laser sights.  They all have something different drawn on their armor. Left to right: Sgt. Dion, Rowe, Trench (with a poorly painted Brotherhood of Steel emblem), Soutpaw, and "Angry" Jackson.  Their accompanying Storm, still in progress. I'm gonna paint the passengers the same as their grounded versions.  The base looks awesome- concrete board is amazing.  Tac marines with the basic color scheme. 2nd squad.  1st tac squad missile (first squad is an entire squad of former Astartes), jump marine, and a devastator. Still need black trim.  Counts-as Telion  2nd scout squad. The vox includes a positional relay, allowing the squad to send coordinates to orbital forces (counts-as teleport homer)  I'm waiting for the weather to get warmer so I can spray the turret, and about half the scratches still need highlights.     The Mercs don't have the fancy technology to keep warriors alive after death, so they tend to scoop out the sarcophagus and install a cockpit in their dreadnoughts. I tried to give it a roll-cage but it didn't look right.  1st Jump squad  1st assault, devastator redshirt  Parts of 2nd Tactical. Sam Fisher, bolter dude, and bad rear end.  1st assault, 2nd tactical meltagun, 2nd tac sargeant with combi-melta.  2nd Jump - think Minsc; he got hit in the head a few too many times and now thinks he's an ork, and has a pet grot (which isn't glued on yet, not sure if it works there)  Not part of the army  The base is awesome though
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Mar 11, 2011 00:32
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Hahaha. Samfishermarine owns.
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Mar 11, 2011 00:47
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poo poo, when did you start doing good work? 
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Mar 11, 2011 00:48
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So, thanks to KongGeorge and his sexy, sexy self, I have a lightbox that works like a hooker during Mardi Gras. That Kroot Shaper that won me that painting contest actually looks like it should, zenith highlighting and everything (so it still kind of looks like it's in shadow, but because it was painted that way)!
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Mar 11, 2011 00:52
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TBP your poo poo has improved so much, great job on those guys so far. Not a fan of the dread though :P
Chenghiz fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Mar 11, 2011 |
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Mar 11, 2011 00:59
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The Blue Pyramid posted:
Chenghiz posted:TPB your poo poo has improved so much, great job on those guys so far. Not a fan of the dread though :P Wait, what? 
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Mar 11, 2011 01:06
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Saalkin posted:Wait, what? Your confusion confuses me.
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Mar 11, 2011 01:11
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While the whole premise is rather silly the conversions are kind of alright so well done. Leaps ahead of your early stuff.
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Mar 11, 2011 01:16
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Thanks to everyone for the responses. I will probably wind up getting the GW stuff and maybe a bit of the stuff my friend uses. Paint a model using each to see the difference. I'm expecting the first ones to look like total crap anyway.
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Mar 11, 2011 02:24
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TBP that stuff is leaps and bounds over the stuff you're known for, except for that poor AoBR dread.
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Mar 11, 2011 02:26
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I like the dread - the conversion is reasonably well-done and the army has some flavor.
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Mar 11, 2011 02:36
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So hey I've been thinking about designs for my Guard regiment's insignias and instead of wanting to murder everything I see by trying to do little white lines freehand I was thinking of grabbing some printable waterslide paper and doing up my own transfers. Have any of you dudes played around with this stuff before? I know you need to get laser or ink specific paper, and I've heard you need to seal the print to the paper with some spray gloss otherwise it rubs right off, but are there any other things I should look out for?
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Mar 11, 2011 02:39
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adamantium|wang posted:So hey I've been thinking about designs for my Guard regiment's insignias and instead of wanting to murder everything I see by trying to do little white lines freehand I was thinking of grabbing some printable waterslide paper and doing up my own transfers. Have any of you dudes played around with this stuff before? I know you need to get laser or ink specific paper, and I've heard you need to seal the print to the paper with some spray gloss otherwise it rubs right off, but are there any other things I should look out for? They do make water decal paper made specifically for inkjet printers. Don't think you need to seal them, but you do need to let them dry really, really well.
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Mar 11, 2011 02:47
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Quick question for you guys: How long do you typically leave your models after priming before painting?
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Mar 11, 2011 03:00
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dishwasherlove posted:Quick question for you guys: How long do you typically leave your models after priming before painting? Literally months, but you shouldn't start painting before at least an hour has passed. Primer tends to be touch dry in 30 minutes, paint dry in 60, depending on how heavy you go with the coat. At room temperature, anyway. Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 11, 2011 |
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Mar 11, 2011 03:01
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Since the question is up, what is generally considered the best way to prime your figures? I'm talking the spray vs brush method. What seems to give better results for most people?
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Mar 11, 2011 03:09
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I always give spray primer about 24 hours to dry. It's what it says on the can, and it's how long it takes for the paint to stop outgassing (stinking). You probably can work on it before then, but I would assume it isn't fully cured until it stops outgassing. Brush undercoating is crap, as is gesso. I haven't tried airbrush basecoating yet but I intend to on my next character.
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Mar 11, 2011 03:11
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adamantium|wang posted:So hey I've been thinking about designs for my Guard regiment's insignias and instead of wanting to murder everything I see by trying to do little white lines freehand I was thinking of grabbing some printable waterslide paper and doing up my own transfers. Have any of you dudes played around with this stuff before? I know you need to get laser or ink specific paper, and I've heard you need to seal the print to the paper with some spray gloss otherwise it rubs right off, but are there any other things I should look out for? Check out Lazertran, they make the kind of "no-seal" decal paper Sushi was talking about. There's also a Dakka article that covers custom decals as well.
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Mar 11, 2011 04:21
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Nash posted:Since the question is up, what is generally considered the best way to prime your figures? I'm talking the spray vs brush method. What seems to give better results for most people? Spraycan: entirely determined by quality of primer, works fine when done properly with good product. Susceptible to ambient humidity and temperature, rendering it a gamble in some climates. Fast and easy. Available in a wide variety of colors. Brush on gesso: works alright in a pinch, but is time-consuming and doesn't provide as even a coat as a properly applied spray primer. Effective colors limited to grey and black (white gesso tends to be too watery to coat pewter/plastic effectively). Really only recommended if you live somewhere with >50% humidity all day every day, or if you just can't possibly sprayprime. Brush on primer: tends to eat detail if improperly applied. Typically acrylic, but lacking the elastic properties of gesso, causing it to be more prone to flaking/rubbing off than gesso's rubbery texture or a spray primer's solvent-based adherence. Last resort/touch-ups only. Airbrush: You can prime with anything you can jam through your airbrush. Every airbrush primer job I've seen has looked spectacular, but I don't own one, so I have no personal experience on the topic to comment further. All in all, I prefer a spraycan, but would probably question that if I owned an airbrush. I've had excellent results with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer regardless of weather. I've used it when it's below freezing out, and when it's pouring rain, all to no ill effect on the end result. Definitely not a budget option, though, but its relative stability has served me well enough that it might be worth the premium if you happen to live some place like Seattle where decent priming weather is not easily available from October to May.
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Mar 11, 2011 04:39
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Sole.Sushi posted:Grandpa Pap posted:Cheers lads. Nash posted:Since the question is up, what is generally considered the best way to prime your figures? I'm talking the spray vs brush method. What seems to give better results for most people? I go a quick black spray (thanks to whoever recommended White Knight, it's cheap and it owns) and then after half an hour go over the whole model with watered down black paint to fill in the nooks and crannies and to add another thin layer of undercoat.
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Mar 11, 2011 05:16
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Finished painting Janissa Stonetide today, not the best photo probably should have used a darker background and the reds aren't that bright in real life.  I'm really happy with how her skin turned out in the end, i spent ages loving about with a blend based on bleached bone and red lips. She ended up looking like something between a prostitute and The Joker. In the end i switched to a 90/10 space wolf grey and electric blue, which came out much smoother than the old skintone and really helps her eyes to pop. Calico Noose fucked around with this message at 12:00 on Mar 11, 2011 |
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Mar 11, 2011 11:54
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Nash posted:Since the question is up, what is generally considered the best way to prime your figures? I'm talking the spray vs brush method. What seems to give better results for most people? I fill my mouth with paint and swish the models around inside for a minute, then spit them out.
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Mar 11, 2011 13:34
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I brush-primed a SD Gundam kit once. With chaos black. Never again. 420 spray prime everyday The kit was supposed to be white  why did I prime all those white Gundams black
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Mar 11, 2011 13:43
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:The kit was supposed to be white Racist.
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Mar 11, 2011 15:43
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stabbington posted:Airbrush: You can prime with anything you can jam through your airbrush. Wait, I thought you had to have special mixes to prime with using an airbrush? Are you saying I can actually just dump Space Wolves Grey in my airbrush and have at it?
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Mar 11, 2011 17:02
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AnUninvitedGuest posted:Wait, I thought you had to have special mixes to prime with using an airbrush? Are you saying I can actually just dump Space Wolves Grey in my airbrush and have at it? No, I'm not sure why he said that. There might be primers that you can spray through an airbrush, but not just any paint will do.
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Mar 11, 2011 17:20
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Yea, you can't just dump the paint in there directly. You could use Space Wolves Grey, but you would need to thin it out with a medium and probably mix in some sort of extender (I forget what its called - stuff that prevents it drying as fast). Otherwise your acrylics will just sputter out of the airbrush and then dry up in there, making a big mess and a lovely job of it.
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Mar 11, 2011 17:23
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My point was more that putting any old paint through an airbrush doesn't make it primer.
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Mar 11, 2011 17:38
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Ashcans posted:Yea, you can't just dump the paint in there directly. You could use Space Wolves Grey, but you would need to thin it out with a medium and probably mix in some sort of extender (I forget what its called - stuff that prevents it drying as fast). Otherwise your acrylics will just sputter out of the airbrush and then dry up in there, making a big mess and a lovely job of it. Yea, I know that. My point was that he was claiming by using an airbrush it becomes a primer.
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Mar 11, 2011 17:44
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I clearly missed the point. v v
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Mar 11, 2011 17:54
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AnUninvitedGuest posted:Wait, I thought you had to have special mixes to prime with using an airbrush? Are you saying I can actually just dump Space Wolves Grey in my airbrush and have at it? I think he means you can use your airbrush to prime with any brush-on primer (after thinning it, I'd think).
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Mar 11, 2011 19:46
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You can throw Gesso through an airbrush IIRC. Also, Does anyone have any advice for using Cadian Missile Launchers on Marines b/c paying 15 dollars for a SM devastator arm is retarded?
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Mar 11, 2011 19:53
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So I put magnets in the bases of my Space Hulk guys and have been making bases for them for use in 40k. Circuit boards and random junk make good Space Hulk-y bases, right? Click for huge. These are in progress, but do they work so far?
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Mar 11, 2011 20:04
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Dagon posted:So I put magnets in the bases of my Space Hulk guys and have been making bases for them for use in 40k. Circuit boards and random junk make good Space Hulk-y bases, right? That's cool, what did you use to make them?
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Mar 11, 2011 20:08
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