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On the topic of S7's, Dickblick.com has a sale on them. 40-60% off. E: Reposting my tutorial since it earned me this avatar and dropped off the page pretty quickly. You all have to suffer if I do. A handful of people have been asking me for a tutorial on how I do faces, and while I don't really have the camera setup to get good sequential shots, I did make up a little photoshop approximation to give an idea of how I work. First off I drew up a little face that has most of the common features the majority of the Space Marine heads have:  The first step is obviously the basecoat, which I use Tanned Flesh, Vallejo Tan, or P3 Khardic Flesh. I also flatten out a 3/0 brush and use it to slide black paint length wise into the eyesockets.  After that's done I go back with Dwarf Flesh (or approximate) and highlight much of the face, leaving only the grooves of the face and areas where features meet dark. I also paint white dots on either end of the eyes (or just on a single side if I want them to be looking in a particular direction.)  Now I take Elf Flesh and once more highlight the face, this time sticking to only the most raised areas. This highlight tends to be fairly thin so as to give it a bit of opacity and let the other colors show through. You'll also notice I leave his lower lip the basecoat, since your lips tend to be darker and it helps the model look a little more natural.  Finally I paint the hair, which in this case is an approximation of Bestial Brown, washed with Devlan Mud, and then highlighted with Kommando Khaki.  And that in a nutshell is how I paint faces. No excessive blending techniques or anything fancy. Just three colors stacked on top of each other, thinned down a bit to flow better, but nothing excessive. As I've said before it's more of an exercise in where to apply the highlights and what to leave showing through. Here are a few examples of painted faces using this method:    Hopefully that was in some way useful. 
Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Mar 13, 2011 |
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Mar 13, 2011 17:36
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 14:12 |
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You gotta keep in mind, though, those S7 brushes won't even scratch a land raider.
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Mar 13, 2011 17:37
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Was someone suggesting you basecoat a tank with a size 0 brush?
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Mar 13, 2011 19:04
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It's a Strength 7 joke.
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Mar 13, 2011 19:08
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I've been owned...
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Mar 13, 2011 19:09
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I've been owned... How's it feel, MSP...
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Mar 13, 2011 21:55
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crime fighting hog posted:How's it feel, MSP... GW has repeatedly stated that MSP is being phased out
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Mar 13, 2011 21:57
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S.J. posted:GW has repeatedly stated that MSP is being phased out I liked last edition better
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Mar 13, 2011 21:58
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S.J. posted:GW has repeatedly stated that MSP is being phased out I dont get it. Whats MSP? E: On anouther note, how am I suppose to cock the kombi-scorchas and kombi-rokkits on my guys? The guns themselfs are made for 2 hands, and thats just the ones that came with the Nobz kit and NOT the ones I made myself by glueing a scorcha onto a shoota with an autocannon How much better are meganobz compared to nobz? Because I am starting to have a bit of buyers remorse 
Milkbags fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Mar 13, 2011 |
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Mar 13, 2011 22:23
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Nobz are way, way better than meganobz, in the sense that they've got bosspoles and invuln saves and other stuff that makes them more flexible. In certain situations, like assaulting vehicles and squads without power weapons, manz perform better per-point. A 3-manz squad in a trukk is a pretty handy fire-and-forget distraction unit, whereas a larger squad demands the investment of a warboss/ghazkull (which then eliminates the price advantage inherent to them). All said, however, I bring my manz + ghaz to every fight, and my nobz are collecting dust on the shelf. It mostly comes down to personal preference.
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Mar 13, 2011 22:53
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Milkbags posted:I dont get it. Whats MSP? MasterSlowPoke, the user just a few posts above you.
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Mar 14, 2011 00:37
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Milkbags posted:How much better are meganobz compared to nobz? Regular Nobz are a LOT better than Meganobz. But I think this is for the other 40k thread, not the Painting thread.
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Mar 14, 2011 00:46
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WhiteWolf123 posted:Regular Nobz are a LOT better than Meganobz. It is actually. In any case, this sortof removes the buyers remorse I had. That, and I could pose a powerklaw nob giving "The Folks", which is some british insult where you put up two fingers backhand or something. In any case, I do love theese two cyborg heads.
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Mar 14, 2011 03:30
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Built more Ork BFG ships today.  The Krooza is the last one I built today, but its a Krooza, so it goes first. Its a bit small compared to my first one, which is itself a bit small compared to Imperial BFG cruisers, but whatever. Scale isn't THAT important in BFG since its all based on the bases and stems. Mostly happy with how it turned out.  Next up are four escorts. Built the top pair first, and I'm not very thrilled with them, but whatever, I need 12-15 escorts so they'll do. The second pair I like better, especially the little guy, he's so small and kinda looks like a fish, so I'm naming him Da Guppy.   And finally, a group shot of all the new ships. Unfortunately some of the bits used to build this batch had been primed on the sprue, which is making these photos not as good as they could be (though the crappiness is mostly due to my own bad camera skills).  Gonna try to go down to my FLGS tomorrow to do some more work, but I can't decide if I want to build more ships, or paint what I got. So far I've only got my first Krooza painted, leaving the second new Krooza and 7 Escorts unpainted.
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Mar 14, 2011 06:43
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Fix posted:There's a paint on mask you can use, though I can't for the life of me remember the name of it. I've used Microscale's "Micro-Mask" as a paint on mask. It is water based and the instructions say not to use it with water based paints, but I didn't have any problems airbrushing water based paint on it. Blu-Tack also works pretty well for masking.
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Mar 14, 2011 10:19
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Those Bitz Kroozers are awesome BTW. I think you should paint them up first. Mainly so I get to see them painted.
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Mar 14, 2011 12:45
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Got bored on the weekend, had this guy sitting in my ute for ages, thought I would do a clever little conversion. He is from the 420th Valhallan regiment or something I don't fuckin know military poo poo.
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Mar 14, 2011 13:43
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Military structure lesson for Imperial Guard hams!  In order of size and precedence: Army Command Army Group (Not used since WWII) Army Corps = 20-45,000 soldiers Division = 10-15,000 soldiers Brigade or Regiment (Infantry or Cavalry) = 3-5,000 soldiers Battalion or Squadron (Cavalry) = 300-1,000 soldiers Company or Troop (Cavalry) or Battery (Artillery) = 62-190 soldiers Platoon = 32-40 soldiers Squad - 9-10 soldiers Team - 2-5 soldiers That's the way the U.S. army is structured anyhow, and British structure isn't really all that much different. Now you too can plot out the entire command structure of your IG army and paint appropriate numbers on all of your tanks! E: Or just use it for your elaborate bong jokes! Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Mar 14, 2011 |
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Mar 14, 2011 17:17
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Sorry for the lovely iphone pics, but I put together a multi-melta tac marine yesterday Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can make it look more like a movable turret instead of half a Land Raider cupola sticking out of the ground? Also this, it had to be done  Big Willy Style posted:Got bored on the weekend, had this guy sitting in my ute for ages, thought I would do a clever little conversion. He is from the 420th Valhallan regiment or something I don't fuckin know military poo poo. Haha, I've been waiting for someone to do some Cadian 420th or equivalent, he needs some red eyes
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Mar 14, 2011 17:55
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Hell Diver posted:E: Or just use it for your elaborate bong jokes! Thanks! I tried red eyes, but I need new brushes and the only decent size 1 brush I have was the smallest and the tip was a little bit out of joint.
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Mar 14, 2011 18:22
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The Blue Pyramid posted:Sorry for the lovely iphone pics, but I put together a multi-melta tac marine yesterday Replace the land raider cupola with a tripod, perhaps? If you don't have one, just make it out of two widths of plastic tube and some sprue.
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Mar 14, 2011 18:26
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Big Willy Style posted:Thanks! Need to get yoself a 3/0, homeboy. Also, aside from the weed joke, that's a good looking paint job on that figure. 
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Mar 14, 2011 18:31
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dishwasherlove posted:Those Bitz Kroozers are awesome BTW. I think you should paint them up first. Mainly so I get to see them painted. Seconding this. Also, I know suggestions are like assholes, but it would be cool to paint them in two completely different color schemes bow to stern, as if different groups of orks started painting, and because the ships are so big, they didn't coordinate, met in the middle, had an argument, started scrapping, and then forgot to paint part of it--eventually just giving up and going to waagh (in space).
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Mar 14, 2011 18:56
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Prepare for incoming rage... My awesome Rustoleum-brand primer ran out, and they don't make that formulation any more!So now Goons, I am on a quest to find gray primer that won't let me down. Suggestions welcome. Rusty, you will be missed. 
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Mar 14, 2011 20:11
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Krylon? I've only used it on a few models but it seems to do the job.
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Mar 14, 2011 20:15
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I use cheapo ColorPlace sprays from Walmart, less than a dollar per can of flat white, black and I believe grey, and it works just fine.
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Mar 14, 2011 20:25
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Sole.Sushi posted:Prepare for incoming rage... Krylon flat black
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Mar 14, 2011 20:34
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crime fighting hog posted:Krylon flat black black is not grey
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Mar 14, 2011 20:35
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Chenghiz posted:black is not grey Krylon flat grey. I can't find Krylon black primer but I can find grey and white all over the place.
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Mar 14, 2011 20:53
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SRM posted:Krylon flat grey. I can't find Krylon black primer but I can find grey and white all over the place. He said black, but yes krylon's flat grey seems pretty good.
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Mar 14, 2011 20:58
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Chenghiz posted:black is not grey sorry, missed the grey. Use black anyways. Be hardcore.
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Mar 14, 2011 21:02
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Seconding this. Also, I know suggestions are like assholes, but it would be cool to paint them in two completely different color schemes bow to stern, as if different groups of orks started painting, and because the ships are so big, they didn't coordinate, met in the middle, had an argument, started scrapping, and then forgot to paint part of it--eventually just giving up and going to waagh (in space). This is one of those ideas that sounds cool and fluffy in your head, but would look awful in practise without some more serious conversion work establishing the narrative in the minature.
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Mar 14, 2011 21:23
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crime fighting hog posted:sorry, missed the grey. Use black anyways. Be hardcore. Use white and black at the same time, bottom to top/top to bottom, get free lighting effects, drybrush grey and *then* start your basecoat. Otherwise it will look like crap and you will kill yourself in shame.
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Mar 14, 2011 21:24
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Use white and black at the same time, bottom to top/top to bottom, get free lighting effects, drybrush grey and *then* start your basecoat.  You're a madman!
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Mar 14, 2011 21:26
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Sole.Sushi posted:Prepare for incoming rage... Dupli-color Sandable Primer. Comes in white, black, gray, and red. They sell it at Advanced Auto Parts for about $5.50 a can. If you google Duplicolor and 40k, you'll find that everyone raves about it. I just got my first can and the nozzle is really sweet (it requires half the downward pressure to spray). http://www.duplicolor.com/products/sandablePrimer/
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Mar 14, 2011 21:26
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I really like the P3 black, but someone once said that it's just the krylon black repackaged?
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Mar 14, 2011 21:52
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If you prime grey, kill yourself. Black priming domination. 
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Mar 14, 2011 21:55
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Hell Diver posted:If you prime grey, kill yourself. Hey, if other guys want to be wrong, I won't stop them. Black primer fo lyfe
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Mar 14, 2011 21:56
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Switching tunes here, does anyone know a good place to get microsol/set? Do local places like michaels carry that or would my best bet be just ordering direct?
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Mar 14, 2011 22:00
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 14:12 |
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If you have a Hobbytown (or any model train stores) they should carry it.
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Mar 14, 2011 22:02
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