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Space Marines can be painted either incredibly fast and easily, or incredibly difficult and slow. It really just matters if you want to do the easy edge highlights or the blended cylinder ones. Both look good in their own rights.
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Mar 21, 2011 23:19
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The downside being that at the end of the day, you still end up with an army of marines.
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Mar 21, 2011 23:57
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A well painted marine army can look as good as any other tbh. I could never do it though, cant stand painting the same things over and over again.
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Mar 22, 2011 00:02
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Marines are all about how much bling you can glue onto them.
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Mar 22, 2011 00:03
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 CHENGIZ: please post your thunderhorse cavalrymy bro was talkin bout them and I cant find any evidence of them in the forums, lost to waffle images I'm guessing
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Mar 22, 2011 00:26
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will blow your mind.
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I just got 5 Series 7 brushes I decided to get from Dick Blick (60% off sale) but I'm so rough on brushes I don't really want to start using them. 
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Mar 22, 2011 00:26
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MSP accidentally set one down in a pool of superglue and in a panic he put it in water. I still use that brush.
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Mar 22, 2011 00:28
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Hell Diver posted:I just got 5 Series 7 brushes I decided to get from Dick Blick (60% off sale) but I'm so rough on brushes I don't really want to start using them. If Im honest I didnt notice any difference in my painting quality when I used a series 7.
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Mar 22, 2011 00:29
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WhiteOutMouse posted:
Don't mind if I do:  
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Mar 22, 2011 00:37
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Bhyo posted:If Im honest I didnt notice any difference in my painting quality when I used a series 7. I've always felt the same way with Kolinsky's and other sable brushes, but PV was talking up S7s so I said gently caress it and took a plunge.
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Mar 22, 2011 00:40
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I've noticed that they have helped me improve, but I was starting from a pretty lovely place, so that may well just be the practice. And it's largely a struggle between better tools and practice versus laziness anyways.
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Mar 22, 2011 00:53
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Series 7s are awesome because I beat the poo poo out of them but they still keep working great. They won't help make you better per se, but they won't provide another hindrance, if that makes sense.
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Mar 22, 2011 01:04
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The main benefit to expensive brushes that I've observed is that they hold such a good point that you can use a much larger brush for most tasks, making you that much faster. I do most of my painting with an S7 #2, which is pretty beefy in comparison to a lot of brushes. I go down to a #00 for eyes, and a #1 for small detail, but that's about it.
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Mar 22, 2011 01:14
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Hell Diver posted:I've always felt the same way with Kolinsky's and other sable brushes, but PV was talking up S7s so I said gently caress it and took a plunge. Basically if you keep them clean and dont let poo poo dry in the ferrule area, they will last for a LONG time, they hold more paint than synthetics because sable hair absorbs paint like a mofo, and they keep a point forever. I have a well used size 1 that Im using as we speak, and its on the third army project in a row. Still loads paint, still has a great point. As far as making you a better painter or not, theyre not magically going to teach you to blend or anything, but because they hold their points so perfectly, youre probably not going to get in a situation where you apply a line highlight and have it look all janky. Since I started using good brushes my edge highlights got way sharper, and generally speaking I paint much faster with s7's because they load more paint and Im fixing less mistakes.
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Mar 22, 2011 01:15
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Holy poo poo the 000 is tiny. I got a 1, two 0s and two 000s. The 000s are great for eyes and fine detail though. More precise than jabbing this nylon 3/0 I've been abusing in there anyway. Just got to play nice with them so they last. E: True to form for me, the first thing I did was paint a couple scars on Marbo's face, which I liked, then I tried to do some scars on his arms and completely disliked them all so I just repainted parts of his arms. I'm so drat indecisive. Maybe I'll try older scars with a pink highlight and a khardic flesh shade line to make it look raised. I'll experiment. Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Mar 22, 2011 |
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Mar 22, 2011 01:30
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Hell Diver posted:Just got to play nice with them so they last. You really don't, actually. I used to destroy synthetic brushes over the course of batch painting, and was afraid to use the W&N brushes I won in the last Oath thread. I pulled them out for special minis, and treated them like fine china. Going back to synthetic brushes immediately after using them, though, I kept getting irritated at the crappy tips and how the paint just didn't flow as well from my dollar store brushes. Eventually I told myself that I'd just use the biggest W&N I had, the #1, for basecoating and save the #0, #00, and #000 for the special occasions. Replacing one brush would be easier on the wallet, and I'd be happier/faster with by basecoating. 5 months and a few hundred models later, it still looks brand new. I had to trim a few rogue hairs from it in the early days, but aside from that it's been better than any fresh cheap brush I've ever used. I'm sure some of its long life is due to the Master's Brush Cleaner that I sitll religiously use on it after every paint session. It's also helped increase the life of my crappier brushes, but the W&N brush really benefits from the conditioner/preserver in it. Maybe the tinier brushes need some more gentle care, but the #0 and #1 are the best and most robust workhorse brushes I've ever had.
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Mar 22, 2011 01:49
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Hell Diver posted:Holy poo poo the 000 is tiny. I got a 1, two 0s and two 000s. The 000s are great for eyes and fine detail though. More precise than jabbing this nylon 3/0 I've been abusing in there anyway. Yeah Windsor and Newtons brush scale is weird, their 000 is basically the tiniest brush youll ever need. I like their "miniature" range because they are tiny and short, but for basecoating/etc I like the standard longer hair brushes. I still dont have a #2, but one of these days Ill buy myself one. In the meantime my #1 does most of the work til I get to details.
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Mar 22, 2011 02:34
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I finally got around to filling out a unit of Khador battle mechaniks that I last touched about 4 months ago. Here are the results: 
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Mar 22, 2011 02:43
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crime fighting hog posted:Marines are all about how much bling you can glue onto them. ... I just had a vision of Ork freebooterz dipped in glue and rolled in Lego pirate booty pieces (the coins and cups and so forth) until it forms beards of booty with gold guns and choppas sticking out. And preshus jools on their crab claws.
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Mar 22, 2011 02:46
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   Not exactly miniatures, but it is painting sculpting and modeling! Started as 2" pink foam. Hills are layers of 1/2" pink foam. Coated with 2:2:1 PVA Drywall Primer, Play Sand, Carpenter's Glue. Painted with exterior paints (green and gray). Coated with Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut Satin. Roads are the innards of 1/4" foamcore, one side peeled off, embossed with a Pencil Lead container, and a emptied Bic pen. Roads were coated with Minwax Polyshades Pecan Satin. What do you guys think? It is still a WIP, and these pictures were taken just after I slathered it with the Polyshades, so it is still kinda goopy looking. Biggest error I made was I forgot to divide the width of the diagonal roads by root(2).
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Mar 22, 2011 03:45
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It's not quite as awesome as great brushes but this poo poo is great too. Now if I could only find out where I put it 
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Mar 22, 2011 04:07
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The Saddest Robot posted:It's not quite as awesome as great brushes but this poo poo is great too. You should never need this if you just wash your brushes properly and dont stab them into a paint pot.
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Mar 22, 2011 04:20
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I find it works wonders against metallics and foundations. It's just handy to use as a cleaner, nevermind the conditioning part. e: also, I use a little bit to rinse out pots of washes when I'm done, so I can use them for other stuff!
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Mar 22, 2011 04:25
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e: Herpa derp wrong thread, instead I'll just say those wolves are bitchin
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Mar 22, 2011 04:28
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Bhyo posted:If Im honest I didnt notice any difference in my painting quality when I used a series 7. Bhyo posted:You should never need this if you just wash your brushes properly and dont stab them into a paint pot. Werent you the guy who paints straight from the pot on a regular basis?
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Mar 22, 2011 04:37
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Paintbrushes gonna get paint on em. The thinner the paint the more likely some will seep up the bristles into the head. Think of it as preventative maintenance. Your good brushes will last loving forever with this stuff.
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Mar 22, 2011 04:39
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PaintVagrant posted:I like their "miniature" range because they are tiny and short, What, really? I just figured that they were so small they wouldn't hold enough paint and would dry out too quick. Now I feel better about the ones Fix sent me! Also I got a #4 that I got real cheap off of eBay that I've been doing the entirety of my painting with because it's just SO MUCH BETTER than all my other brushes.
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Mar 22, 2011 04:44
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Heres a dump of some random stuff Ive worked on over the past few weeks. Basically finished with the huge death skull ork army project, starting up a chaos army soon. I slapped a little paint on some skornes too. These photos suck, my DSLR camera has vanished          
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Mar 22, 2011 05:01
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I like those bases, PV. I've been thinking that my bases need a little sprucing up, and some tufts of grass like that would be perfect. -Is that a special mix/brand of grass? It looks like there are multiple tones in it. -Any advice for not loving it up horribly?
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Mar 22, 2011 05:04
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The grass on the skornes is a brownish green, and is drybrushed lightly. The other one is just sort of a wheat/bone white color.
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Mar 22, 2011 05:06
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So dope. So, very dope.
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Mar 22, 2011 05:16
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holy poo poo that teal
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Mar 22, 2011 05:17
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Fix posted:Some kind of weird abstract painting theory occurred to me tonight. It seems to me that the more you do things right, the less likely you are to notice them because they just look how you'd expect things to look. I know that we exaggerate things for effect because of scale, but getting the lighting and shadow just right, or picking out proper details, or getting the right color balance is less of a matter of making a model look more right, than it is making it look less wrong, because we're naturally predisposed to seeing things as we think they should look at 1:1 scale, and it's only the glaring errors that stand out. The stuff you do right? That's harder to notice intentionally and quantify. WRT your first two sentences: This is an incredibly common problem within the teaching professions, especially so in design. Its one reason why amazing designers are often terrible teachers, they don't even know what they know, and they certainly don't know what the students don't know, or how to teach them what they don't know, because they've forgotten how they learned it in the first place.
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Mar 22, 2011 05:24
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How are you doing the gold on the Skorne PV?
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Mar 22, 2011 05:35
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:holy poo poo Yeah, that is pretty boss. Might we get a rough guide as to how you made it?
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Mar 22, 2011 06:30
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PaintVagrant posted:Werent you the guy who paints straight from the pot on a regular basis? No, I just said its possible to paint straight from the pot if you wanted to without it looking like someone shat on a model which was the argument at the time. I do stuff like this  Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.     I realise I've come across as harsher than I wanted to in my posts without meaning to. serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 08:58 on Mar 22, 2011 |
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Mar 22, 2011 08:49
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This is probably the best thing I've painted thus far.  I really wish I could figure out how to take better pictures. My stupid little portable lightbox doesn't have bright enough lights to light well through the side panels, I think. They always end up either too brightly lit or way too dark and trying to compensate always fucks the colors. Still touching up the bird (it does not look like it was carved out of cake frosting IRL), and trying to decide whether to activate the hammer or not. It kinda seems silly to go all glowing power weapon when it looks like it's at rest like that.
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Mar 22, 2011 09:16
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Fix posted:I really wish I could figure out how to take better pictures. Yeah man, because that doesn't look like Harvey Birdman at all. Something must be way off.
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Mar 22, 2011 13:39
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Fix posted:This is probably the best thing I've painted thus far. What I think this model is really lacking is some contrast. The browns, golds, flesh colours and the loin cloth thing just sort of blend it. I would hit the green in the deep recesses with a wash of darkangels green with a little bit of scab red mixed in. Maybe drybrush the fur up to bleached bone and a few subtle washes on the bird would do it wonders I think. A reddy purple wash on hte gold would go a long way too. The face on this model is reeeallly good though, the red tinge just makes it. Great work. And this is what I have been up to recently. My friends are nagging me to get back playing 40k, and I want to play with something other than my deathguard. My orks are going to take aaages to paint, so I have decided getting my 2nd eldar models ready will be a more manageable task. I think I am going to go an old school ulthwe scheme with a bit of a modern flair. I would love to hear people's thoughts on him.   I went with a purple wash on the bone and metals to contrast with the yellow. I mucked around with some spray painting to quicken up the black. What I do is undercoat black, with a dusting of white from above, then give the armour a coat of Coat D'Arms armour wash, this gives it a subtle transition, then I do a few edge highlights in grey. I am still trying to get this right, but my first results are promising. I would love to hear what you guys think. Bases are probably going to be sand with a few tufts of dead grass, or a craftworld base that will be ivory that I will cast myself.
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Mar 22, 2011 14:04
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Big Willy Style posted:What I think this model is really lacking is some contrast. The browns, golds, flesh colours and the loin cloth thing just sort of blend it. I would hit the green in the deep recesses with a wash of darkangels green with a little bit of scab red mixed in. Maybe drybrush the fur up to bleached bone and a few subtle washes on the bird would do it wonders I think. A reddy purple wash on hte gold would go a long way too. It's kinda frustrating, because I actually did all of that, but I can't get the contrast in the photo. I went with the red contrast into the cape, did a few ink glazes over that to get a little tiny bit of shine, drybrushed the fur up four levels to a cool grey rather than bone, and the bird is actually done with nothing but washes and comes across as completely flat in the pic. I pushed the armor with multiple coats of dark redbrown glaze deeper and deeper into shadow. Is it the background? Is white loving up the balance on the camera or something? How bright are the bulbs in the lights in your guys' light boxes? My kit has got these little things that don't seem to penetrate my tent, but direct light screws everything in the other direction.
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Mar 22, 2011 16:44
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