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EightBit posted:You mean glass shards, right Mmm no, I mean there was a party in the transmission! I found out by accident that Reverse gear came back, but I'm afraid to use it as I'm pretty sure most of that metal in the pic came from last week when I put it in reverse to back out of a driveway and heard a very nasty sound. Then reverse became the new neutral.
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Mar 20, 2011 00:11
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 Remains of a supercharged VQ37VHR from a G37. Not a lot of details but it sounds like this was due to improper tuning, running lean under boost.
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Mar 22, 2011 11:18
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Landerig posted:Welp, went to do a transmisison fluid and filter change on my "new" 92 Dakota 4x4 to deal with some late shifting, dropped the pan and... That makes me feel better about when I dropped the pan on my '95 Dakota:  Should I be worried?
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Mar 24, 2011 16:21
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Not really a mechanical failure but I'm pretty sure our free Z31 just became much less free.        Good thing we're not making a show car. Also a good thing the timing belt didn't snap in transit: 
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Mar 24, 2011 17:11
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Oh man, I thought mine was a pain to work on. Thank you for making me feel so much better now!
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Mar 24, 2011 18:10
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Hillridge posted:That makes me feel better about when I dropped the pan on my '95 Dakota: Probably not. I had a 93 I also did a fluid and filter change on, and the magnet had a bit more goo then yours, but none of the confetti I'm seeing in your pan. If your tranny's shifting fine now, you're probably okay for another 30,000 miles.
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Mar 24, 2011 18:21
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Landerig posted:Probably not. I had a 93 I also did a fluid and filter change on, and the magnet had a bit more goo then yours, but none of the confetti I'm seeing in your pan. If your tranny's shifting fine now, you're probably okay for another 30,000 miles. Just clicked on this thread for the first time in about 800 posts and found all this talk about Dakota trannys. Just got back from the shop with my 97 V6 4x4 that was also missing shifts and had them change the fluid and filter. They told me it was full of shavings and not to expect much more service from the transmission.
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Mar 25, 2011 22:31
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Man I would love to take my dad's railcar down those hosed up tracks.
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Mar 26, 2011 07:20
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 Friends 05 Subaru Legacy GT.
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Mar 27, 2011 05:54
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This is nothing compared to what some people have posted in this thread, but it's going to require a lot of time to fix and possibly even a whole lot of money. The lesson here kids is: ALWAYS DO YOUR RESEARCH. These are OZ Superleggera three piece wheels. They are very light, ordinarily very pretty, and extremely expensive on the order of about $1000 each. I may have ruined the gently caress out of them.  That black stuff you see is brake dust. On a whim, I purchased some Hawk Blue race brake pads. I knew they'd chew through the rotors in short order, but they're being replaced next brake job anyway, so I could live with that. What I didn't know and if I had asked around, is that the dust from these pads is straight from the pits of hell and will gently caress up and ruin everything they touch, from wheels to paint to calipers ... you name it. You may think I'm kidding, but just do a google search. Apparently, the dust is just fine unless it happens to come in contact with water and it dries. Not such a big deal on a race car when you rarely see rain and when you do, you can pull the wheels and clean everything up pretty immediately. See, when this stuff dries, it forms a rock hard compound that's a very close approximation to cement. I have tried my damnedest to clean this poo poo. Normal stuff, like most wheel cleaners, don't even make a loving dent. Neither does undiluted Simple Green. I have currently resorted to using brake cleaner along with a very stiff nylon brush, and that is slowly eating the stuff away. Very slowly. In fact, you can't tell, but I've already spent about 30 minutes on the section of wheel in that photo. It really shows, doesn't it? That doesn't count all the crap (see the "rust"?) that's on the painted part of the wheel where I'll have to be even more careful to not scratch the finish. Luckily, OZ puts a pretty thick coat of baked enamel on the wheel, so I should be able to buff out whatever damage I do ... provided I don't eat through the paint with solvent. I'm told that EZ-Off Oven Cleaner in the yellow can will remove all this stuff pretty quickly, but I stand a very good chance of taking the paint off in the process, so I don't want to do that. My saving grace is that I noticed after only using the pads for a couple of weeks and barely any real use at all. Had I gone through the entire pads, I'd likely be hosed. The unfortunate thing is that I can't return the pads and I'm drat sure not going to use them again, so I'm out about $200 on pads.  Just to show you how tenacious this crap is, it's all over the inside of the wheel. I have to clean it off or wheel weights won't stick there. This is fifteen minutes work with brake cleaner and a goddamn brillo pad, which I'm obviously not going to use on the front of the wheel. When I'm done with that, I've got three more wheels to do, then I get to inspect the brake calipers and all the hardware around it and attempt to clean that. I haven't found any of this dust on the exterior paint, so at least there's that. gently caress HAWK BLUES, DO YOUR RESEARCH, KIDS.
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Mar 28, 2011 00:26
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einTier posted:This is nothing compared to what some people have posted in this thread, but it's going to require a lot of time to fix and possibly even a whole lot of money. The lesson here kids is: ALWAYS DO YOUR RESEARCH. Sorry about your luck man  I really hope that comes out without ruining the wheels.Have you tried Westley's Blech-white cleaner or Sonax Full Effect wheel cleaner? You can get Westleys at wal-mart and its an acid based cleaner. Sonax is available online only as far as I know but it seems like it works very well. Just about anything is worth a shot before you resort to more aggressive approaches that may damage the finish since they are such expensive wheels.
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Mar 28, 2011 00:37
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That reminds me: is gamma-butyrolactone a legit wheel cleaner or is it a "wink-nudge 'wheel cleaner'" in the way that jwh-018 is "bonsai food?" Might be worth a shot anyway. \/ \/http://buy-gbl.com/wash-wheels-with-gbl.html
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Mar 28, 2011 01:27
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Brain Issues posted:Sorry about your luck man Blech-white will ruin aluminum. I got a smidge of overspray on a new set of aluminum wheels, grabbed the rag next to me and wiped it off and it had already damaged the finish. We're talking roughly 6 seconds of contact, which led to about 45 minutes of polishing. I don't know how it'll treat the enamel, but be very careful.
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Mar 28, 2011 02:44
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In one of the car cleaning threads on here someone explained that this is why he waxes the inside and outside of the wheels when he does the rest of the car.. Most people were of the opinion that it was over the top and that brake dust isn't that hard to deal with, but after seeing this (and I've got hawks installed on my auto-x car) I'll be waxing the wheels.. drat.
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Mar 28, 2011 03:37
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Wiglaf posted:In one of the car cleaning threads on here someone explained that this is why he waxes the inside and outside of the wheels when he does the rest of the car.. Most people were of the opinion that it was over the top and that brake dust isn't that hard to deal with, but after seeing this (and I've got hawks installed on my auto-x car) I'll be waxing the wheels.. drat. I always hit my wheels with a coat of wax at least once in the spring, and whenever I have them off the car the rest of the summer. Anybody who sees me do it thinks I'm crazy, but it makes cleaning even the nastiest road grime and brake dust easy. Doesn't take that long, either. And I also run Hawk pads, but I run the HPS pads on the street. If I were running the Blues, I'd definitely want to keep them and a set or two of rotors for just "track" use, and swap them for daily driving.
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Mar 28, 2011 04:49
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Wiglaf posted:In one of the car cleaning threads on here someone explained that this is why he waxes the inside and outside of the wheels when he does the rest of the car.. Most people were of the opinion that it was over the top and that brake dust isn't that hard to deal with, but after seeing this (and I've got hawks installed on my auto-x car) I'll be waxing the wheels.. drat. Godholio posted:Blech-white will ruin aluminum. I got a smidge of overspray on a new set of aluminum wheels, grabbed the rag next to me and wiped it off and it had already damaged the finish. We're talking roughly 6 seconds of contact, which led to about 45 minutes of polishing. I've not had any problems with Blech-white on aluminum but I'm careful to not use it on them when they're hot or in direct sunshine.
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Mar 28, 2011 05:03
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Brain Issues posted:Sorry about your luck man It doesn't matter which mag wheel cleaner you use, none of it is going to work. Look at the inside of that wheel and remember that all that work is fifteen minutes with a very caustic solvent specifically formulated to remove brake dust off of poo poo that generally can't be ruined by solvents. And a brillo pad. Obviously, that's an extreme attack that's only suitable because the inside isn't polished, isn't really visible, and scratching it is no big deal. That still required a lot of elbow grease. EZ-Off will do the trick, but something you probably didn't know (I didn't), is that some people use it as an automotive paint stripper. So I don't really want to go there. But anything I do use has to be pretty loving nasty to handle and stands a really good chance at loving up the wheels and will still require a lot of elbow grease. I have now found I'm not the only one to gently caress this up. A good friend of mine is recommending the use of clay bar, as that worked for him. But it was a whole bar and 25-30 hours. Per wheel. Another has handed me some supposedly paint safe solvent that is specifically designed to remove rail dust on new cars. We'll see how that goes tomorrow. This loving sucks. Here's a few other people who have the same problem.
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Mar 28, 2011 06:25
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MEK?
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Mar 28, 2011 09:23
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It sounds like the best bet would be to bite the bullet, get them professionally taken down to bare metal, and refinished.
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Mar 28, 2011 11:40
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Have you tried using a medium solvent with a hard plastic scraper? It sounds like you're dealing with something that needs mechanically separated from the wheels. I had something similar with a set of used wheels I just cleaned up. A combination of WD-40 and GooGone soaked the nasty stuff for about 15 minutes, then I went at it with a hard plastic tool (similar to a bone tool). The plastic wasn't hard enough to scratch the wheels, but was hard enough to dig through the hard stuff. One of the problems is penetration, the stuff gets super hard, so if you can dig channels into the coating, then let whatever solvent you're using sink in to the channels... it's a divide-and-conquer thing.
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Mar 28, 2011 11:41
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EVERYWHERE 
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Beach Bum posted:It sounds like the best bet would be to bite the bullet, get them professionally taken down to bare metal, and refinished. This is going to be the only option that looks good in the long run. What's your time worth?
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Mar 28, 2011 11:43
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Oven cleaner is one cheap way used to remove oxide from aluminum before re-anodizing it. I would recommend against that route.
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Mar 28, 2011 12:55
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Beach Bum posted:It sounds like the best bet would be to bite the bullet, get them professionally taken down to bare metal, and refinished. It might be. Unfortunately, it's going to cost extra for this job because of the removal necessary and the fact that they're three piece wheels that need special tools for assembly and disassembly. Plus, if I want it done right, the only authorized assembler for OZ wheels in North America is ... Tire Rack. They'll have to be shipped. I figure I'll spend some time today and see how long it really takes. Then I'll make my assessment from there.
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Mar 28, 2011 16:55
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Can you get them tanked with some sort of non-harmful solution?
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Mar 28, 2011 17:35
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DefaultPeanut posted:MEK? This might not be a bad idea.
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Mar 28, 2011 17:55
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Try a magic eraser/melamine foam pad. poo poo's amazing.
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Mar 28, 2011 18:20
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Whatever you do to get them clean again, it looks like you're a good candidate for a coating of plasti-dip or some form of vinyl wrap. If you do actually end up getting them stripped down completely, see if anyone does a hard, slick coating to refinish them in - the only problem being that such things are often a bit drat pricey.
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Mar 28, 2011 18:54
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Yeah stay the gently caress away from oven cleaner, it will eat the aluminum for breakfast.
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Mar 28, 2011 18:59
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einTier posted:Oh poo poo wheels If you have a buffer available, I would try getting a heavy cut foam pad and some Turtle was buffing compound (not polishing, you want the brown stuff), and try buffing it off. It won't damage the finish on the wheels unless you sit on one spot for a long time and let it get too hot. The other way I could see of getting it off would be to wet sand it off with some 380 grit, then wet sand at 600/800/1500 grit and buff it back to a shine with a medium cut foam pad and polishing compound.
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Mar 28, 2011 19:01
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einTier posted:they're three piece wheels that need special tools for assembly and disassembly. I think any good wheel repair shop will be both qualified and experienced in reworking these.
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Mar 28, 2011 19:11
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LloydDobler posted:I've seen guys just use high grade silicone sealer to reassemble. If you let the air out of the tires you might not even need to do this.
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Mar 28, 2011 19:52
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LloydDobler posted:Looks like a standard 12 point driver to me. I bought a set for 10 bucks from Checker. They use those same sockets on Volvo flywheel bolts and also BBS 2 piece wheels. I've seen guys just use high grade silicone sealer to reassemble.
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Mar 28, 2011 20:34
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The one tire rack uses probably does them all at once.
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Mar 29, 2011 01:59
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$20,000 is a rather extreme amount for a torque wrench. Like Tactical Bonnet points out, it's probably some sort of gang device. CDI (snap-on) wrenches are only a few hundred, max.
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Mar 29, 2011 02:08
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I would imagine the wheel would follow the usual tightening order. N, S, E, W, NE, SW, SE, NW, or however it goes. You'd probably have to make a diagram to do it, but it could be done.
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Mar 29, 2011 02:16
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Oh boy I have a few pictures for this thread from a car I just bought, 89 240sx single-cam, he put the timing chain on... well, I don't see how he put it on so far off, and not to mention the way he got the car running is really interesting. He ground down the tooth that fits into the distributor to keep the timing in check and then just messed with it until it ran I guess, who knows what the real timing was. Pics when it's not raining like mad out here and I have some time to work on the car.
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Mar 29, 2011 02:24
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Das Volk posted:This might not be a bad idea. only if he wants cancer.
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Mar 29, 2011 05:18
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Courtesy Top Gear "fail file" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXQNpGmK5Qs
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Mar 31, 2011 21:16
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Any progress on the Superleggeras, einTier?
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Mar 31, 2011 22:46
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Jonny Nox posted:Courtesy Top Gear "fail file"
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Mar 31, 2011 23:41
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