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I really hope that at least one of those Ravagers/Raiders has a tiny MP3 player installed so that it can be playing Bolt Thrower/Man'o'War/etc. throughout your games.
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Apr 14, 2011 18:53
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Ashcans posted:I really hope that at least one of those Ravagers/Raiders has a tiny MP3 player installed so that it can be playing Bolt Thrower/Man'o'War/etc. throughout your games. Gotta be http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02nAH_oAjeg
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Apr 14, 2011 18:57
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theironjef posted:Gotta be I just laughed out loud at work because of this song. I can soooo see some drugged out Dark Eldar cruizin' the Warp blasting this.
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Apr 14, 2011 19:13
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dexefiend posted:I just laughed out loud at work because of this song. I can soooo see some drugged out Dark Eldar cruizin' the Warp blasting this. No, this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVgSMuRsjNg
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Apr 14, 2011 19:16
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No, this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtR6IrvxeFs
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Apr 14, 2011 19:32
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I feel like, since it's dark eldar, it's really this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3ZsvQoB7hE
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Apr 14, 2011 19:36
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Writing all this down! ...though to be honest if I use any GNR song on my dark eldar whuppin' space rear end soundtrack, it'll probably be Rocket Queen. What can I say, I'm a fan of slow-heavy metal. Would I be painting prog-rock album dark eldar if I wasn't?
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Apr 14, 2011 19:46
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Anyone have some modeling inspiration pictures of a looted aobr dread they can post?
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Apr 14, 2011 21:39
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theironjef posted:I'm just happy to have found this picture, apparently some organizer took it at a tournament I was at recently, I found it floating around online. Way better shot than I can take. Whoa okay, I need to do some banners that way. Can you step-by-step your technique?
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Apr 14, 2011 22:39
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theironjef posted:Would I be painting prog-rock album dark eldar if I wasn't?  You've just made me want to paint a Rush-themed army.I have no idea what the gently caress it would be, but I now feel a deep unfulfilled need to do this. Maybe Noisemarines...
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Apr 14, 2011 22:59
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Tadhg posted:
No man. Squats. Counts as space wolves.
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Apr 14, 2011 23:56
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On the subject of Dark Eldar battle soundtrack: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgzGwKwLmgM I think it's relevant. Also anyone have a good guide on how to get the GW transfers onto space marine shoulder pads without any fuss? I know it should be easy as pie but the few I've tried doing have turned out pretty "meh".
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Apr 15, 2011 01:18
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Anyone want to take a stab at telling me what color these tanks are using as a base color?
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Apr 15, 2011 01:19
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Brodin posted:On the subject of Dark Eldar battle soundtrack: I've only just started my Guard army what is wrong with me. 
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Apr 15, 2011 01:26
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Fix posted:Anyone want to take a stab at telling me what color these tanks are using as a base color? Tempted to say somehting like Menoth White Highlight. With lots of filters and washes, obviously.
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Apr 15, 2011 01:27
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What's a filter?
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Apr 15, 2011 02:29
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A very very thin paint layer that alters the colour of the basecoat and helps blend colours together.
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Apr 15, 2011 03:13
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Is that different from a glaze? Or are they six of one half dozen of another?
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Apr 15, 2011 03:44
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Bavius posted:Alright, not 100% done but I wanted to ask for a bit of advice. Before anything about painting the hilt, please paint the blade silver originally. Black on the blade just looks stupid to me. Brodin posted:Also anyone have a good guide on how to get the GW transfers onto space marine shoulder pads without any fuss? I know it should be easy as pie but the few I've tried doing have turned out pretty "meh". I'm sure somebody else here could help more, but I think it's accept that it will not look as good as freehand, you should do touch up paint around the design, and possibly a matt spray afterwards.  Also, anybody have a simple guide for painting the army of the dead? GW offers incredibly lovely tutorials for what should be the simplest thing to paint. I'm thinking maybe white undercoat, paint the metal, badab black, thraka green, highlight white. Any advice? 
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Apr 15, 2011 03:46
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I'd basecoat with Space Wolves, myself. From the look of the unit picture, it almost looks like stuff that should be wood is brown, so maybe do the wood and leather kit in Bleached Bone, then do your washes and such? And maybe mix a light grey into your metallic paint so it's metally but not blatant? Because their weapons are spectral as well.
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Apr 15, 2011 04:00
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Fix posted:Is that different from a glaze? Or are they six of one half dozen of another? As far as I know it's thinner. I'm only just getting into the more traditional military techniques so I could be using the wrong term. What I'm thinking of involves putting small spots of various oil paints across the model, then when they are partially dry you load your brush with thinner and start spreading and mixing those paints around on the model. The final effect is subtle changes in the base colour.
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Apr 15, 2011 04:07
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I thought Reaper sold empty dropper bottles on their site. Am I just totally missing them, or do they no longer do this?
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Apr 15, 2011 04:11
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Wazzu posted:
Not strictly true. Gloss varnish over the area where you will apply the transfer, then when that has dried brush some microset onto the area and imediately apply the transfer. Get the positioning you want and then take away any excess fluid by touching the corner of a tissue to the area. Then if it still isn't flat use a brush damp with microset to smoothe it out. The microsol/set will soften the decal so that it conforms to the model. Once it is dry apply some more gloss varnish to protect it, and then matte to finish it. Do it right and you have something that looks far better than freehand.
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Apr 15, 2011 04:15
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Fix posted:Is that different from a glaze? Or are they six of one half dozen of another? Glazes are a term from pottery of using glass dust in a medium as a pigment. They have to be heated in a kiln to bond to the surface of the pot. Calling a paint a glaze usually just means that it dries in a protective layer and is transparent, like a colored sealer. A thin layer of something that you can see through is a wash as far as I know. It's just that washes are easy to get into cracks so they tend to get thought of as a shading technique, rather than a blending one.
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Apr 15, 2011 04:27
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Wazzu posted:Before anything about painting the hilt, please paint the blade silver originally. Black on the blade just looks stupid to me. Base white Shadow grey Thraka Highlight Fortress grey White Here is mine:  [img]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_v-QnkPLGATg/SpS8sfp-IPI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/BoVl-_SNzvA/s400/IMG_1051.jpg[\img] magnetbox fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Apr 15, 2011 |
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Apr 15, 2011 04:29
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:As far as I know it's thinner. I'm only just getting into the more traditional military techniques so I could be using the wrong term. As far as I know (and I could be wrong), the following are accurate statements: Wash: a color that is applied that flows heavily into recessed areas, creating shading effects. Filter: a very thinned down color (or thin layer of color) that changes the hue of the color beneath it. Think of it like this; adding a red filter is like moving the red hue slider up a bit on a picture in photoshop to create a warmer tone. The technique described above is one way to achieve this effect. Tint: a stronger filter, meant to create a different color all together by applying a transparent color layer over a base color. Akin to putting on tinted sunglasses in the fact that every color takes on a strong overlay of the color of the lenses. Glaze: in this context, a glaze refers to a transparent layer of color that is meant to even out variations in tone difference for a particular color. For example, when you use multiple layers of Thraka Green to give your basecoat, shade and highlight variations of Goblin Green a smoother, more even transition. Stain: the opposite of a glaze in terms of what you get, a stain is a transparent color layer that emphasizes differences in color between basecoat, shade and highlight. Not sure if miniature painting uses a lot (if any) of this, but I imagine it has a place. Juice/Slush: as far as I know, these two terms mean the same thing. A Juice/Slush is a half-way between a wash and a glaze. From what I've seen, it's used mostly as a different way to get smooth transitions of color while adding a bit of depth as well.
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Apr 15, 2011 05:22
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Hey painting thread. So I just finished my first two mini's in 11 years!  Some good ol' Warmachine/Hordes Swamp Gobbers:  Just another day on the job...   My 12 year old self would be so proud  These were my "warm up" models to try and get back into painting and learn all the things I never bothered to learn to learn before like using washes, shading, highlighting all that much... (okay so I was a lazy 12 year old and screw that when you got 20 mans for just one unit). I'm pretty pleased with how they came out, especially since I only had 6 colors for the grunt (blue + yellow = green  ) and 7 plus a couple washes for the leader. I also played around with matte medium do-it-yourself washes on both of them, but I think I'm using too much medium (1:1 with water then adding paint to desired darkness) and its "gumming" up certain parts of the model. Not too worried about it though since the gobbers would likely have black poo poo clogging all their crevices from living in a swamp anyhow. I think the highlights look a little bright and blobby from these shots too but they look good from tabletop height so it's kind of a wash I guess. You guys probably aren't all that impressed though, so what should I be focusing on as far as painting techniques go to improve from here? I know my cloth is not so great, and the next model up is a very robe-y Gorman di Wolfe, so its sink or swim there. Should I learn to wet-blend or try to the lots of thin highlights building up from shading color thing? I'm considering starting a Menoth (i.e. LOTS OF ROBES) force so I want to learn to do this right and like I said these are my learning models so I can screw them up all I like.
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Apr 15, 2011 05:30
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Crosspostin' all up in here: OATH COMPLETE!I'm using Helldiver's technique to paint Catachans, and while it takes a lot longer I think these are some of my best minis yet. Here I've got one vet squad with 3 melta guns, power fist, and demo charge, and a squad of combat engineers - special weapons squad with demo charge and 2 flamers.     This squad is also my first time painting tattoos:  This here is my special ingredient; the corporal sat down in the tattoo parlor and said "Give me anything!" so instead of getting a spade or a skull, he got this on his bicep:  And the combat engineers:    Make this guy's face my new av, tia  Hope you like em!
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Apr 15, 2011 05:48
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Wazzu posted:
Unfortunately I don't have the time, patience, or steady hand to do an intricate free-hand logo on so many little men  I was actually looking for advice on how to get the bastards to stick. Both test models the transfer wouldn't lay flat no matter how much I brushed the edges down, and kept popping up. Was frustrating as all hell, one I got to look "ok", the other looks like rear end except from a distance. Help somebody?
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Apr 15, 2011 07:09
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Brodin posted:Help somebody? Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Gloss varnish over the area where you will apply the transfer, then when that has dried brush some microset onto the area and imediately apply the transfer. Get the positioning you want and then take away any excess fluid by touching the corner of a tissue to the area. Then if it still isn't flat use a brush damp with microset to smoothe it out.
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Apr 15, 2011 07:22
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SRM posted:he got this on his bicep: Deltoid. 
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Apr 15, 2011 12:07
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El_Pato posted:Hey painting thread. So I just finished my first two mini's in 11 years! You're looking good man. Don't worry so much about specific techniques and poo poo, just paint cool models. It'll come with time. Base those minis though!!!
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Apr 15, 2011 15:00
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Ah missed that, what is microset and where can I get some? I was just applying the old fashioned way of soaking it in water then letting it dry on the model.
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Apr 15, 2011 15:46
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For decals I can recommend using Future Floor Finish 1:5 with water. Breaks the surface tension, dries clear and hard. I use it as the medium to pull the decal from the water I then use an hobby knife, and paint brush combo to move it to the mini and apply it.
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Apr 15, 2011 16:05
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Manifest posted:Whoa okay, I need to do some banners that way. Can you step-by-step your technique? Which part, the lightning bolts, the starfields?
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Apr 15, 2011 17:12
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Welp, I was hoping to prime my AoW Lizardman so I could finally get started on making Gor-rok. Shame he decided to leap out of the clamp and explode on the garage floor...  The only join that didn't shatter was the pin, super glue, and ProCreate combo I used to make his great weapon one-handed for Gor-rok's giant gently caress-off club. So now they all got that treatment.
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Apr 15, 2011 17:16
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Since LucasLAD is currently  'ing too hard at the thought of using these in his pseudo-Egyptian marine army, I've decided to post about these here in his stead! 
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Apr 15, 2011 17:21
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Brodin posted:Ah missed that, what is microset and where can I get some? I was just applying the old fashioned way of soaking it in water then letting it dry on the model. It's two bottles of liquid made by Microscale. You'll still need to soak the transfer in water etc, it just gives you a few more things to do for a better result. It should be available through ebay or a good model shop.
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Apr 15, 2011 17:58
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Made the final Plague Marine for my 7-man unit: Still a few touch-ups to do and some basing, but I'm well on my way to having a fieldable CSM army.
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Apr 15, 2011 22:57
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That's gross. You're gross.
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Apr 15, 2011 23:27
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