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wallaka posted:No emissions compliance. It came from the factory like that though, I did not chop it out. In 2000.
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Apr 15, 2011 14:55
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EGR isn't necessary for emissions compliance, it's just one of the many tools in a carmakers compliance toolbox. See also: air pumps, extra catalytic converters, carbon offsetting. Your Jeep must've been able to pass the 2000 emissions standard without an EGR.
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Apr 15, 2011 16:37
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jamal posted:it's probably fine but if you really want to know do a leakdown and compression check. Just like EGR and diesels.
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Apr 15, 2011 16:41
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Splizwarf posted:EGR isn't necessary for emissions compliance, it's just one of the many tools in a carmakers compliance toolbox. See also: air pumps, extra catalytic converters, carbon offsetting. Your Jeep must've been able to pass the 2000 emissions standard without an EGR. This. The GM Atlas engines, for example, don't have EGR valves. Supposedly they were able to control emissions enough with VVT that it wasn't needed.
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Apr 15, 2011 17:19
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lazer_chicken posted:This. The GM Atlas engines, for example, don't have EGR valves. Supposedly they were able to control emissions enough with VVT that it wasn't needed. Weird, do they close the exhaust valves/open intake valves early?
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Apr 15, 2011 17:25
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http://i.imgur.com/o4eAz.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LPF7S.jpg The clutch packs inside the reduction gear went bad, well in one of them. http://i.imgur.com/SYd2H.jpg I took that out of a busted A/C compressor, the bearings all wiped up. Running without oil is a bad thing yeah? d thing yeah? The images broke the forum so you should click the link if you feel like it.
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Apr 15, 2011 17:57
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It's impossible to get a good photo, but this is one of the presses I manage: [ It's a 4000T(combined pressing force) Komatsu 4 station mechanical transfer press. The transfer system is the bit that picks the panel up from one die & moves it to the next die, from the inside it's the white bar running horizontally. We're looking from W1(entry) towards W4(exit). The feeder bar we're looking at is lifted & pushed by massive(2m diameter) cams in the basement. The lift system is a pair of pushrods running along under the floor, driving massive rack & pinions. [] This is one of the lift gearboxes, the only pic I got that didn't have one of my co-workers looking 'thoughtful' in it. Wait, there's some holes in the side - what did we take out? Well... [ That looks okay, what about the shaft supporting it? [ Well, not so good. The shaft on the right is eccentric by 1.5 mm, to allow us to set the intermesh between the left & right pinions correctly. The collar on the left sits between the bearings at each end of the gear above. The little shred on the far left is almost all that remains of the rear support bearing. This locked up the feeder system, meaning the tooling inside the press couldn't be removed (the feeder has to lift all the way up before the dies can be driven out the sides of the press), we have no spare shaft, the Japanese manufacturer has no on-the-shelf spare for this 20 year old press & was reluctant to release the drawing, they quoted 2 weeks to make & ship a new part to us. Thanks Komatsu. Anyway, with threats of legal action we got a drawing out of them & got a shaft made locally in 18 hours. Also, it took 8 hours to pull the shaft out of the gearbox, it was that badly hosed. I didn't get a picture but the 'master' pinion that drives the double gear above is really badly damaged - 3 teeth in different locations are down to 50% width remaining - probably where the bearing rollers dropped out & got munched like candy. We'll build up some stock with crossed fingers then strip it down at Easter & send the gear to be copied. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Oct 20, 2018 |
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Apr 15, 2011 21:55
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Cakefool posted:got a shaft made locally in 18 hours. Not so much a horrible mechanical failure as a decision process one, I've seen someone insist that they only need three $5 components, regardless of things like minimum order values, batch setup charges and fast-tracking premiums. So that'll be $2,400 to you, squire, sign on the dotted...
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Apr 16, 2011 00:16
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wallaka posted:No emissions compliance. Grandfathering lobbyism.
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Apr 16, 2011 00:18
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Muffinpox posted:Weird, do they close the exhaust valves/open intake valves early? Different cam profiles can go a long way to whether you need EGR or not. Best example I've got is the LS1 as installed in the F-Body - 1998 through 2000 used EGR because of the cam specific to that application. 2001 and 2002 went to a smaller cam and added the LS6 intake manifold - eliminated EGR and kept power levels the same. For the record, the '97-'00 Corvette LS1 never needed EGR due to the cam they put in that one.
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Apr 16, 2011 00:25
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my e30 running on megasquirt passed smog check with flying colors.. just tuned it for 14.7 AFR across the board and let it rip, all the numbers were like 1/2 of max (usually they barely pass, if I'm lucky) I'm of the opinion that a modern direct injection motor should not need such crap on it. But really a turbo could cause the same issues just from typical bearing leakage. That is a pickle, not sure what the best way around it is. More air filtering?
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Apr 16, 2011 00:26
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Regular maintenance. 
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Apr 16, 2011 00:45
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Wiglaf posted:But really a turbo could cause the same issues just from typical bearing leakage.
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Apr 16, 2011 00:45
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Friend just posted this of his custom turbo S2000:
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Apr 16, 2011 01:20
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Where's that oil filter and attached metal supposed to be?
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Apr 16, 2011 01:50
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remote oil filter
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Apr 16, 2011 01:51
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Where, not what. I'm assuming it's not supposed to be dangling in the middle of everything.
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Apr 16, 2011 03:34
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Godholio posted:Where, not what. I'm assuming it's not supposed to be dangling in the middle of everything. Looks like a perfectly logical place for a remote filter to me. Better than most manufacturers do anyway.
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Apr 16, 2011 05:24
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thelightguy posted:Looks like a perfectly logical place for a remote filter to me. Better than most manufacturers do anyway. Remote oil filters shouldn't even be in your car. It's not convenient or environmentally correct.
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Apr 16, 2011 07:17
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LO Technology posted:Remote oil filters shouldn't even be in your car. It's not convenient or environmentally correct. Burning oil off your exhaust is the EPA approved method of disposal! Seriously, what the gently caress?
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Apr 16, 2011 07:24
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LO Technology posted:Remote oil filters shouldn't even be in your car. It's not convenient or environmentally correct. I'll take a filter somewhere where I can get a strap wrench around it any day over a filter jammed up in between the fork of the Y-pipe.
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Apr 16, 2011 08:30
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thelightguy posted:I'll take a filter somewhere where I can get a strap wrench around it any day over a filter jammed up in between the fork of the Y-pipe. I keep all my remote oil filters in my gun safe. I change them religiously. Well, ok, sometimes I punch them.
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Apr 16, 2011 08:47
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Also, how is a remote filter setup not "environmentally correct"? Because it adds a quarter to half a quart to the pan?
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Apr 16, 2011 08:54
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Geoj posted:Also, how is a remote filter setup not "environmentally correct"? Yeah I'm curious about this myself. Unless "remote filter" means spraying the oil out, filtering it through national park soil and the fur of squirrels and then sucking it back up again.
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Apr 16, 2011 09:30
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Ola posted:Yeah I'm curious about this myself. Unless "remote filter" means spraying the oil out, filtering it through national park soil and the fur of squirrels and then sucking it back up again.
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Apr 16, 2011 09:37
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Geoj posted:Also, how is a remote filter setup not "environmentally correct"? Because it adds a quarter to half a quart to the pan? A remote filter setup is about as environmentally correct as you can get. Keeping it in the car (glovebox etc.) is not. You should ideally keep your remote filters in your SHTF-room below your moms cellar or - if that's not an option - in your gun-safe. Just remember to change them every 10K miles.
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Apr 16, 2011 13:26
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thelightguy posted:Looks like a perfectly logical place for a remote filter to me. Better than most manufacturers do anyway. It just looks like it's not even attached to anything and is just sitting there at an odd angle. Apparently it's just me.
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Apr 16, 2011 14:54
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LO Technology posted:Remote oil filters shouldn't even be in your car. It's not convenient or environmentally correct. LO Technology posted:A remote filter setup is about as environmentally correct as you can get. Keeping it in the car (glovebox etc.) is not. Okay, I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one who has no idea what the gently caress you're talking about anymore. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Apr 16, 2011 |
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Apr 16, 2011 14:58
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Could you imagine if everyone used them? Total game changer to the environment. Mine was just because the turbo manifold got in the way of OEM filter location, i picked an easier spot to get at. But I'll tell ya, how many oil drops I've saved from hitting the pavement..
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Apr 16, 2011 15:07
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E: loving SALR...
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Apr 16, 2011 15:22
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Lowclock posted:Okay, I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one who has no idea what the gently caress you're talking about anymore. I LOVE ACID!!!!!
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Apr 16, 2011 18:41
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Cakefool posted:4000T Komatsu Transfer I'd love to hear what kind of noise one of those makes when it shits the bed, or did it just kind of sieze up and grind to a halt? Along the same line, I was doing some construction management for an automotive press plant and got to see my contractors drop the Crown for a 2500T Press after driving the truck out from underneath it. Total damage? Two bent oil lines and a drip tray.  What I thought was going to happen when I saw the crane's rear end lift 15 feet in the air? 
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Apr 16, 2011 19:26
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Dave Inc. posted:I'd love to hear what kind of noise one of those makes when it shits the bed, or did it just kind of sieze up and grind to a halt? They tend not to make much noise when they go wrong, they're such a bastard to fix that it's worth coating them into sensors. With this failure the excess torque in the lift system was detected by the PTO (which takes power from the idle end of the slide drivetrain & sends it downstairs to the cambox) & shut the press down. Best failure I got to witness was the bearing of the lift cam follower collapsed, Production stopped the press when the shrieking became too much, sparks were flying out of the cambox, 2 storeys up. It took 6 hours to cut the follower off the bearing, then we had to cut the bearing & pin out before fitting the spares we actually had.
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Apr 16, 2011 22:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:Different cam profiles can go a long way to whether you need EGR or not. Best example I've got is the LS1 as installed in the F-Body - 1998 through 2000 used EGR because of the cam specific to that application. 2001 and 2002 went to a smaller cam and added the LS6 intake manifold - eliminated EGR and kept power levels the same. Power levels were higher in the 2001/2002. The LS6 manifold has a lot to do with that.
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Apr 16, 2011 23:14
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It's more a human failure than a mechanical failure, but is nonetheless awesome/terrifying. Here is a video of a man wrestling with a runaway 2-stroke diesel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AG1MnXkHhlM Ballcock fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Apr 17, 2011 |
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Apr 17, 2011 02:25
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I had yet another 2.0T Audi A4 in the shop with a destroyed HP fuel pump this week but this one was a little more horrible than most - the shrapnel from the pump destroyed all the cam bearings in the head so I replaced it with an Audi reman unit. Road test was fine - no problems, oil pressure and temps perfect until I pulled into the shop parking lot and the car quit with no warning. Attempts to crank resulted in the starter saying "ungh" and the engine not rotating. With the trans in 6th gear we could push the car about a foot and the engine would lock. At first I suspected a hydrolocked cylinder but all bores were dry. Pulled the head looking for some piston-valve contact or a dropped valve - nope. Cams would rotate freely with the head removed so it was something in the tranny or the rotating assembly. When I dropped the oil pan I found the problem - the high pressure oil pump helical gears had jammed due to a small piece of flashing that must have been left over from when the head was remanufactured. When they jammed, the crankshaft kept turning long enough to snap the chain drive to the pump where it then wrapped back around the pump sprocket and jammed the engine. To make matters worse, the drive sprocket on the crankshaft was ruined too. Oil pump/balancer assembly: $1700 Crankshaft: $800 Gaskets+hardware to re-install both: $300 Labor to re/re crank and pump: 10ish hours At this point, Audi Goodwill agreed to replace the longblock which I will be installing on Monday. Longblock price (includes everything but the exhaust mani/turbo and timing belt/tensioner): $6000 plus less labor than to re/re the crank. I though I had some pics on my phone but they didn't turn out very clear - I'll get some better ones tomorrow.
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Apr 17, 2011 16:18
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Apr 18, 2011 03:32
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14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:
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Apr 18, 2011 03:45
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14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:
It's funnier if you pretend those are all from the same vehicle.
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Apr 18, 2011 03:51
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Phanatic posted:It's funnier if you pretend those are all from the same vehicle. As I was scrolling down I got to thinking "how could these all have possibly come from the same engine at one time?!"
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Apr 18, 2011 04:02
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