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I fired up my 12-gallon compressor yesterday and noticed that the oil in the gauge window was black. I expect this means it's time to drain and replace the stuff, but it hasn't been used extensively, so it kind of has me concerned. Should I be worried or am I doing something wrong? Is it normal for compressor oil to get black?
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Apr 29, 2011 22:34
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The heat causes the oil to oxidize and break down. How dark it gets depends on how hard you're working the compressor and how long you go between oil changes. If this is the first oil change it's probably just from things wearing in and making more heat than normal. I came in to work today to find a pallet with a 7 foot tall box nailed to it.  16cfm@90psi, cast iron pump, 80 gallon tank, 80/20 duty cycle, runs off standard 230v, and under a grand delivered from lowes. And I won't have time to unwrap it for nearly a week, and might not be able to install it until mid-may. 
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Apr 30, 2011 00:37
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oxbrain posted:The heat causes the oil to oxidize and break down. How dark it gets depends on how hard you're working the compressor and how long you go between oil changes. If this is the first oil change it's probably just from things wearing in and making more heat than normal. I own the home depot version of this. I'm pretty sure its 100% Duty Cycle, not 80%.
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May 4, 2011 01:57
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Anyone try out the harbor freight engine support bar? I just need it to support my 1.8l M42 in an e30 while I drop the front subframe. Unfortunately I don't have the room in this loving single car garage for an engine crane or I'd make the investment.
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May 4, 2011 23:33
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RapeWhistle posted:Anyone try out the harbor freight engine support bar? I just need it to support my 1.8l M42 in an e30 while I drop the front subframe. Unfortunately I don't have the room in this loving single car garage for an engine crane or I'd make the investment. I haven't but you could use two blocks of wood and a pipe but the bar would be easier since it's already together.
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May 4, 2011 23:44
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daslog posted:I own the home depot version of this. I'm pretty sure its 100% Duty Cycle, not 80%. Actually now that I'm doing more digging I'm thinking it might not even be 80%. I thought it was a TF5810, which has a TF series pump that's rated at 80% and is generally an awesome pump. What we've bought is actually a DP5810-Q, which has a TQ300000AV pump, which is a series I've never heard of and the only documentation I can find for it is parts lists and repair procedures. This is what happens when you need something today instead of being able to wait for eaton. 
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May 5, 2011 18:07
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Can anyone give me some guidance on this: I need to press fit two thin metal tubes together. I'll be using 1/4" and 3/8" dia aluminum and brass. I need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-34152-Tube-Expander-Kit/dp/B001HWLRXO but $400 way out of my price range. Basically I need an exhaust expander but tiny. Does something like this exist (for not $400)? edit - I can't hammer this poo poo and the press fit will be + a few mm from 3/8" so a swaging tool isn't possible. meatsneakers fucked around with this message at 01:04 on May 8, 2011 |
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May 8, 2011 00:58
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meatsneakers posted:Can anyone give me some guidance on this: I need to press fit two thin metal tubes together. I'll be using 1/4" and 3/8" dia aluminum and brass. I need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-34152-Tube-Expander-Kit/dp/B001HWLRXO but $400 way out of my price range. Basically I need an exhaust expander but tiny. Does something like this exist (for not $400)? Pin punch with a minor taper ground on one end + a hammer?
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May 8, 2011 02:32
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any opinions on Craftsman 1/2" impact sockets? I need to get a set for work because I don't trust the set of Great Necks from Autozone that I got in a pinch one day. I figure $90 for a set of 12 deeps isn't bad as long as nobodys had problems with them. I assume that they're fine but a little input never hurt anything.
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May 8, 2011 02:36
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meatsneakers posted:Can anyone give me some guidance on this: I need to press fit two thin metal tubes together. I'll be using 1/4" and 3/8" dia aluminum and brass. I need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-34152-Tube-Expander-Kit/dp/B001HWLRXO but $400 way out of my price range. Basically I need an exhaust expander but tiny. Does something like this exist (for not $400)?
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May 8, 2011 03:35
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meatsneakers posted:Can anyone give me some guidance on this: I need to press fit two thin metal tubes together. I'll be using 1/4" and 3/8" dia aluminum and brass. I need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-34152-Tube-Expander-Kit/dp/B001HWLRXO but $400 way out of my price range. Basically I need an exhaust expander but tiny. Does something like this exist (for not $400)? There's probably transitions made for this. If not, can you machine one? Also beware of galvanic corrosion. There should be a coating between the two metals to prevent this. If there is water and or salt passing through then you're in trouble. Also consider using 2024 aluminum.
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May 8, 2011 18:11
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RapeWhistle posted:Anyone try out the harbor freight engine support bar? I just need it to support my 1.8l M42 in an e30 while I drop the front subframe. Unfortunately I don't have the room in this loving single car garage for an engine crane or I'd make the investment. I've had mine for a few years, works great. I make sure to spray some lube on the screw and ends (it doesn't have bushings) before I use it, has treated me well. Surprisingly, the folding HF hoist has too. I check the cylinder oil every year, add if needed but it hasn't been bad at all.
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May 8, 2011 19:13
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Beast Pussy posted:any opinions on Craftsman 1/2" impact sockets? I need to get a set for work because I don't trust the set of Great Necks from Autozone that I got in a pinch one day. I figure $90 for a set of 12 deeps isn't bad as long as nobodys had problems with them. well they were on sale for $70 so I got 'em anyway along with a bunch of other poo poo like a 1/2 inch impact swivel. and some more gun oil
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May 8, 2011 19:19
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I should have asked before ripping up a few hundred, but is there a tool made for pulling staples out of a floor? There's got to be an easier way than pliers and brute force.
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May 8, 2011 21:31
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Uthor posted:I should have asked before ripping up a few hundred, but is there a tool made for pulling staples out of a floor? There's got to be an easier way than pliers and brute force. a thin screwdriver?
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May 8, 2011 21:41
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One of those things teachers use to remove staples from paper.
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May 9, 2011 02:28
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Uthor posted:I should have asked before ripping up a few hundred, but is there a tool made for pulling staples out of a floor? There's got to be an easier way than pliers and brute force. In fact, there is. it looks a little like a demonic fork. http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/Upholstery-HardwareTack-Lifter-Staple-Remover.html or http://www.jondon.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=10758
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May 9, 2011 02:44
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Lord Gaga posted:One of those things teachers use to remove staples from paper. You're the second personto suggest this. Nerobro posted:In fact, there is. it looks a little like a demonic fork. That second link looks wicked. My dad had something like in the first link, but couldn't find it.
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May 9, 2011 07:04
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How big are the staples and is it ok to mar the floor a little? If the answers are "pretty big" and "yes" then you need either a cat's paw: or if they're sticking up at all maybe a flat pry bar will work better: 
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May 9, 2011 16:04
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You want a small cat's paw:  Or, if these are hardwood flooring staples, a big slotted screwdriver and a hammer. Alternately, use a flush-cutter/nipper to pry them out: 
sharkytm fucked around with this message at 17:38 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 17:36
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I see Sharkytm has had the miserable task of removing 1000 staples from a floor. Those are the proper tools.
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May 9, 2011 22:29
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if anyone ever needs a wire wheel attachment for an angle grinder, I would not recommend the HF stuff... they throw the bristles out at speed and they will stick into you if you have skin exposed 
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May 10, 2011 00:00
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RapeWhistle posted:if anyone ever needs a wire wheel attachment for an angle grinder, I would not recommend the HF stuff... they throw the bristles out at speed and they will stick into you if you have skin exposed Thanks for reminding me.  Nearly 20 years later, and I still have a flat index fingernail from becoming a conduit for shed bristles.
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May 10, 2011 00:05
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RapeWhistle posted:if anyone ever needs a wire wheel attachment for an angle grinder, I would not recommend the HF stuff... they throw the bristles out at speed and they will stick into you if you have skin exposed
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May 10, 2011 00:45
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RapeWhistle posted:if anyone ever needs a wire wheel attachment for an angle grinder, I would not recommend the HF stuff... they throw the bristles out at speed and they will stick into you if you have skin exposed I've had those bastards sticking out of my shirt and some of them broke the skin. It stung a little bit it's not safe. Seconding this recommendation to not buy them.
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May 10, 2011 01:42
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This thing looks like a pretty awesome little interface setup. It doesn't seem to have the price listed for some reason, so I'm e-mailing them about that, but I'm really interested in this thing. Is there anything else similar/better on the market?
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May 10, 2011 02:01
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scapulataf posted:I find a lot of them do that. I come home from work some times and hop in the shower "What the gently caress was that? gently caress, a chunk of wire wheel bristle stuck in my chest". This is why you buy nylon wheels, they don't try to stab you.
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May 10, 2011 02:16
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I need a right angle drilling solution that isn't out of this world expensive and can drill a 1/4" hole in a 3.5"x3.5" square pocket. The harbor freight one is just barely too big for this.
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May 10, 2011 05:38
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Any recommendations for a low-profile floor jack? The one I have now works great for my truck and regular vehicles, but my car is about an inch too low to clear it. I'm thinking about the HF 2-ton aluminum jack, but I'm waiting for a same or big coupon before I pick it up.
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May 12, 2011 00:06
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PitViper posted:Any recommendations for a low-profile floor jack? The one I have now works great for my truck and regular vehicles, but my car is about an inch too low to clear it. I'm thinking about the HF 2-ton aluminum jack, but I'm waiting for a same or big coupon before I pick it up. When I have low vehicles, I always just keep a piece of 2x4 or two handy. Roll up on it, jack away.
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May 12, 2011 00:33
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Help me understand measuring current with a digital (but manual range) meter. I took some old gel-cell batteries from our old alarm panel at work and I'm trying to see if they're any good. (want to make a power-pack for gadgets while camping). I'm trying to see how much charging current one is taking. I have a $30 fluke-look-alike meter from home depot called a sperry dm-5300. I have a wallbug transformer from a print server that says 13vdc 600ma. I have the - of that wallbug going to the - of the batt. I have the + of the wallbug going to the + of the meter and the - of the meter going to the + of the battery. (and yes + of the meter is plugged into the current hole and not the volt hole) I'm pretty sure I'm right in the wiring it's what's on the display I don't understand: If I set 10a range it displays .05 2a range .05 200ma range 55.0 Am I reading everything right and that means it's charging at 55ma? ~1/10th what this transformer can put out? That mean bad battery? or do these things (standard 7ah 12v gel cell) need higher than 600ma to do anything? I was going to go buy a cig lighter plug and try to charge with my truck but if it's dead-dead I won't bother. (it is doing something because this battery read about 5v before and now after ~90 mins if I unplug the charger its about 10v) edit: and its crept its way up to 74ma now 15 mins later. edit again 91ma 10 mins after that Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 15:42 on May 16, 2011 |
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May 16, 2011 15:07
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You are proceeding correctly. I expect the battery will take several days to charge at that rate. It will definitely have diminished capacity as it has been discharged below 10.8 volts.
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May 16, 2011 15:52
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Is that normal for it to only draw 55-91ma from the 600ma charger? I thought they'd take all they could get.
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May 16, 2011 15:57
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Um, a wallwart isn't a charger, and probably doesn't have any voltage shut-off. You have it wired correctly to read amperage. Buy a proper charger before you boil the batteries to death. :edit: See- http://www.qsl.net/wb3gck/gel-cell.htm That wallwart isn't providing the correct voltage, and will under-charge them (bad), then continue to overcharge them once they are full (bad). If you wanna make a charger: http://www.rason.org/Projects/gelcell/gelcell.htm sharkytm fucked around with this message at 16:23 on May 16, 2011 |
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May 16, 2011 16:14
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Read a bit there, huh. The batts were free and I still don't know if any good. I'm using the wallwart now just to kind of test them but I'm guessing maybe this isn't a good test. I'm really wanting to just charge by plugging into my cig lighter while driving or plug in with a found wall-bug at home. What's the cheapest most hackish lazy way to do this that might not be great for the batteries but isn't going to kill them right away? (I had no clue until reading that that they needed to be treated any different than a car batt) My goal here is to use 2 of these batts in parallel to run a usb car charger to power the family's gadgets when out camping, maybe my inverter sometimes and maybe if these are strong enough, jumping a car with a dead batt. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 17:31 on May 16, 2011 |
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May 16, 2011 16:43
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Gel cell batteries get sulfate build-up on the plates if they sit below 12.5V. It will dissolve back into the solution when voltage raises back up and isn't an issue for normal battery cycles, but sulfate is an insulator and if it builds up too long and completely coats the plate, it will kill a battery dead. 6 months is about max shelf-life before self-discharge drops the voltage too low and it sulfates over; less if stored at temps above 77F or if discharged before storage. How long were yours sitting around?
grover fucked around with this message at 23:06 on May 16, 2011 |
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May 16, 2011 23:03
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PitViper posted:Any recommendations for a low-profile floor jack? The one I have now works great for my truck and regular vehicles, but my car is about an inch too low to clear it. I'm thinking about the HF 2-ton aluminum jack, but I'm waiting for a same or big coupon before I pick it up. I have a harbor freight aluminum racing jack that is low profile and works great. I use rhino ramps as well and I have to drive on some 1/2" wood to clear my front bumper.
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May 17, 2011 00:17
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grover posted:How long were yours sitting around? Close to 2 years so looking like not worth messing with. Oh well. I wish I had built something like this back when a place here in town sold the gel cells for $10 exchanged
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May 17, 2011 01:25
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Wagonburner posted:Read a bit there, huh. Smart charger with a reconditioning cycle. This may or may not work. New gel-cells are probably cheaper than the charger.
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May 18, 2011 12:57
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I'm pretty much a beginner when it comes to working on my car. I'm replacing the slave cylinder on my miata. I got the tire off and discovered the top screw was stripped. I certainly didn't help it trying to take it off. I still think it has some grip on it since my socket gets tight when I hold it up to it, but with the 10 inch extension, it just rotates. Do these bolt extractor sockets work well at all or am I going to have to get someone more experienced to drill it out for me? http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-sockets-67894.html
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May 18, 2011 17:20
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