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T1g4h posted:Goddamnit. Busted another shock tower cap off my Revo today bashing it around in the rock quarry and jumping gravel piles. I'm incredibly glad this truck is so durable because i was landing hard and rolling it alot, but at the same time, this fucker goes through shock tower caps like nothing else. And it's always the rear shocks too You consider new shocks or upgrading to an aluminum shock tower cap? Then again it's probably real cheap to just keep replacing those. Personally I keep losing random screws in the suspension. No idea how these are falling out without stripping but my car takes some nice tumbles.
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May 5, 2011 15:20
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VibrioCholera posted:You consider new shocks or upgrading to an aluminum shock tower cap? Then again it's probably real cheap to just keep replacing those. Loctite dude.
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May 5, 2011 15:54
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renraku posted:Loctite dude. You're some kind of genius. No idea why I didn't think of this 4 screws later.
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May 5, 2011 16:52
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VibrioCholera posted:You consider new shocks or upgrading to an aluminum shock tower cap? Then again it's probably real cheap to just keep replacing those. I actually thought about the latter. I have buckets of spare plastic ones, but if I go aluminum, this probably wouldn't even be an issue then, so... v  v
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May 5, 2011 19:04
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renraku posted:Loctite dude. Screws into metal, yeah.. into plastic, not so much.
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May 5, 2011 20:13
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For screws into plastic the only real quick fix is a drop of super glue on the threads. The only REAL fix is a new plastic piece, whatever you're screwing the screw into. This is why if you do a lot of rebuilds sometimes the alloy parts makes sense, if it saves you time, looks cool and doesn't cost a ton.
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May 5, 2011 20:20
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^^ Very true. After a ton of praise, I bought the RPM plastic front hubs for my HPI Blitz fleet... all of the trucks - from my hard-driven racer and my son's lightly-bashed - all had the same problem with the screws wallowing the plastic out and falling out. I'm going to just replace them with the aluminum STRC and loctite 'em on. Besides, the Blitz really benefits from some extra weight.
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May 5, 2011 20:26
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I'm running STRC aluminum front hubs and I think hub carrier is the term? Everything else is stock. I don't want to go aluminum A-Arms because I like that being a "weak" point instead of the shocks or differential. I run aluminum carriers in the back as well. My team STRC aluminum (blue) carriers in the back give it pretty wicked toe-in. The BFG T/A are really wearing piss poor on the street. Can I fix this toe-in? I don't think so on the rear, part of the carrier's trait from what I've read. With that I think my next upgrade will be some nice off-road tires (mounted already preferably) and maybe new shocks for bashing.
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May 5, 2011 21:45
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Yeah, sorry, maybe I should have clarified that the only alloy stuff I'd suggest are things like suspension mounts, center diff mounts and and things like that. Things solidly mounted to the chassis, or that wear out too fast. Maybe hub carriers and uprights if you feel lucky. The rest is just 'bling' and useless...but it keeps the aftermarket guys in business!
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May 6, 2011 11:33
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TremorX posted:Screws into metal, yeah.. into plastic, not so much. Worked for me for the past ten+ years. Especially that tape stuff.
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May 6, 2011 12:45
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So after months of furious bashing my xl-5 stampede is still running strong. Have replaced the motor once ( a very cheap $30) and one of the camber blocks. Other than that this thing seems unbreakable.... Apart from the body. I will need to be replacing it very soon. Does anyone know what scope I have for upgrades? I have gone up to a 5000mah battery pack, but I could only fit a 7 cell in. I hear I need to replace the esc to put a brushless in. Is there an option for putting a faster brushed motor in?
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May 6, 2011 20:55
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Unless that thing can't run a standard 540-style motor, or you're already running some six-turn monster, there's always faster motors available. That said, based on a quick look around, high end brushed motors just don't exist anymore new, and your speed control would probably still have a limitation on how many turns it can go on brushed. Also, high end brushed motors are a maintenance nightmare. If you want more speed, go brushless and/or lipo.
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May 6, 2011 21:12
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So my guy has been running great but I noticed more "whine" from the car and it didn't sound good. It finally started sounding really bad. The gear got eaten alive by the  . I was afraid it was a differential but the lock ups and noise must have come from this: MONSTER GEAR IMAGE AHOY! (Also I'm sort of impressed at my Nexus S camera taking that clear / close up of a photo.) How hard is this to replace? Also, I'm running a 2C MaxAmps LiPo right now. Is this the eventual cause of my gear's demise? I take it this is probably why the car was sounding bad / the wheels weren't turning together nicely. (Besides the first time being the set screw in the drive shaft eating poopy.) What gear and pinion should I go to my local hobby store and ask for? I like to do off-road and mediocre bashing around (nothing harder than hills / rolling over a lot. Not putting it high in the air.) edit: After further inspection the spur gear was ramming into the bulkhead somehow. I have no idea. Now time to reassemble this thing properly.  edit2: Really easy to fix. Traxxas is the definition of simplicity. Car is invincible. I can't imaging what it was like to be into this hobby 15 years ago or something. I bet it was hell replacing anything and have 5 minute run times. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 03:17 on May 13, 2011 |
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May 6, 2011 21:28
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"IOwnCalculus" posted:Unless that thing can't run a standard 540-style motor, or you're already running some six-turn monster, there's always faster motors available. That said, based on a quick look around, high end brushed motors just don't exist anymore new, and your speed control would probably still have a limitation on how many turns it can go on brushed. Also, high end brushed motors are a maintenance nightmare. Thanks for the info. Can anyone recommend a good 2.4ghz radio to run my pede?
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May 7, 2011 13:20
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This damned thread. I haven't given two thoughts towards R/C for 20 years, then I see this and I've been obsessed for weeks. Tell me why I shouldn't get an HPI Cup Racer '72 Carrera. I'm also considering a 1/16 Slash - I know it wouldn't be as off-road capable as the 1/10, but I'd probably end up messing around in streets and parking lots anyway, and it seems versatile enough to handle unkempt pavement and basic off-road. Or am I looking at this the wrong way?
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May 12, 2011 03:09
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I hear that the 1/16 slashes have a really hard time getting power to the ground. The 1/16 revos don't look as realistic, but they sure do handle better.
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May 12, 2011 03:57
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Spent a day filming and driving on a real track with different off-road kits - I can now see how 1/8th off-road is sooo popular. Get a good line/jump and you just want to keep hitting it. But then it's easy to see why it's sooo expensive: tires & fuel, not to mention spares and options. Holy crap. But it was fun. televiper posted:Tell me why I shouldn't get an HPI Cup Racer '72 Carrera. I'm also considering a 1/16 Slash - I know it wouldn't be as off-road capable as the 1/10, but I'd probably end up messing around in streets and parking lots anyway, and it seems versatile enough to handle unkempt pavement and basic off-road. Or am I looking at this the wrong way? I'm a bit biased, but the Cup Racer can be fitted with Tamiya's new Mini Rally Block tires, #51427. Someone else ITT I think has that same kit with off-road tires on it too. I have a Cup Racer and haven't run it much but want to get the Exotek outdrive for it before I put a brushless system in it. When I do get some of those Mini Rally Block tires I'll swap them between my Cup Racer and Switch just to play around. I do have to say I haven't tried messing around with raising the ride height, longer shocks or trimming suspension pieces to get more droop angle, but I'm sure it can be done. If you want to do a lot of jumps and things and driving on grass you'll be better off with the Traxxas kits you mention though.
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May 12, 2011 12:43
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I hadn't considered modding the Cup Racer to a rally format, that could be amazing. Dakar 911 yessssss What about opinions on the available LED kits? If I were to go with the Cup Racer, I'd want to maximize the realism by adding lights, preferably with the option for out-of-band, 'driver initiated' turn signals and hazards. Is this a bridge too far and I'd have to rig up something custom?
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May 12, 2011 17:17
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krushgroove posted:Spent a day filming and driving on a real track with different off-road kits - I can now see how 1/8th off-road is sooo popular. Get a good line/jump and you just want to keep hitting it. But then it's easy to see why it's sooo expensive: tires & fuel, not to mention spares and options. Holy crap. But it was fun. One lap around the yard totally hooked me in. Nitro almost feels like controlling a 'real' car. And, like you said, finding those good lines and jumps is like crack. I can't get enough of sending my D8 sailing through the air and then landing it in all four.
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May 12, 2011 17:47
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I did really enjoy the track driving - a nicely tuned engine helps so much, too! But I'm an electric guy at heart, really. televiper posted:I hadn't considered modding the Cup Racer to a rally format, that could be amazing. Dakar 911 yessssss What do you mean by the above? Personally I'd go with buying some wires, LEDs, a 9V battery plug and learning how to wire up front and rear lights (I have a bunch of exactly this waiting to go on my scale crawler), there are guides online, I tore a guide out of RC Driver magazine I think. The various lighting rigs are nice but super expensive for what they are. (you sound like you're into RC for exactly the same reasons I am - driving scale models all over the place  )
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May 12, 2011 18:27
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krushgroove posted:What do you mean by the above? Exactly, the idea of driving a scaled down RC version of my own car is one of the things that drew me back in, but no one makes an E36 coupe body. So I'm having to settle for owning scaled down versions of my childhood dream cars. The LED kits that I've seen are 'in-band' signals that piggy-back off of other input controls - the blinkers turn on when you turn your wheel, the hazards come on when there is no throttle input, the high beams flash when you gun the gas, etc. What I'd like is the ability to control the lights the way a real driver would - to be able to turn on the blinkers without having to turn the wheel first, to flip on high beams and hazards with a switch or button or something. I'm afraid that to get this, though, I'd end up needing an RC plane radio (which wouldn't be the end of the world, I guess) or else have to set up a second Tx/Rx just for doing the lights. televiper fucked around with this message at 19:12 on May 12, 2011 |
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May 12, 2011 19:09
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oic... well yeah you'll need a 6- or 8- channel radio probably. I have seen it done though - there's a video on YouTube of a German guy that did exactly that on a Tamiya HiLux scale crawler. He used a lot of off-the-shelf components and wired it all up himself. I'd love to have that but would be happy with just constant-on lights and if I really want to stretch myself some working brake lights Novak used to have a speedo that you could plug LEDs into for working brake lights but that is way old now. There is an HPI E30 body: http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/17540/ but I don't know of an E36 body. The M3 GT is coming out soon but it's the latest style.
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May 12, 2011 20:17
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Tamiya makes/made a pretty good looking E36 318i body, but it's a sedan. The TT-01 is also on my list of cars to consider. I know it's not amazing, but it's cheap enough and sturdy enough to be good for folks who have no history in RC (ie - it would be a good spec chassis for the folks at work that I'm going to try to rope into a parking lot league ) e: hell, for the ~$130 price for the basic kits, I'll just pick up one of those if the league ever happens. televiper fucked around with this message at 21:08 on May 12, 2011 |
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May 12, 2011 21:04
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televiper posted:Tamiya makes/made a pretty good looking E36 318i body, but it's a sedan. The TT-01 is also on my list of cars to consider. I know it's not amazing, but it's cheap enough and sturdy enough to be good for folks who have no history in RC (ie - it would be a good spec chassis for the folks at work that I'm going to try to rope into a parking lot league
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May 12, 2011 23:44
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Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the idea of scale-model racing, but the more into racing I get, the less I care about the look and more about the performance. 1/8 buggies and (moreover) truggies look ridiculous to me, but they are an absolute blast to drive! I want to race on-road, but there's just nothing going on around here at the moment. My LHS moved into the mall, who won't let them hold races in the parking lot.. they're more into planes, anyway, so the least amount of resistance and they had no problem dropping the racing altogether. Figures, too, RIGHT when I get a TC set up.edit - Also, Tekin made a lifetime customer out of me today. I melted down my 17.5 playing with my Blitz in the yard... I forgot I had to overgear it a bit at the track and didn't fix it back. I sent it back to them after telling them what I did, and they replaced it free of charge. I expected to have to pay for the repair or replacement. I mailed the dead one out last Tuesday, and got the replacement back today. TremorX fucked around with this message at 01:51 on May 13, 2011 |
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May 13, 2011 01:11
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I can't afford it and don't need it but what are the Ken Block Fietas like?
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May 13, 2011 03:18
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You Am I posted:If you can stretch your budget, also look at the TA05. A very good low end chassis which has a heap of Tamiya and aftermarket hop ups. Plus you get a better range of gear ratios out of it compared to the TT01 Yeah, the TAO5 is a lot more car for the money, but it wouldn't be my budget that i'd have to worry about so much as the hypothetical budgets of the buddies who I might convince to spend ~$200 for an RTR 'real' RC car and essentials, but who wouldn't be into the extra ~50% for the same setup with a TA05 which they would then have to spend time to build. I have no illusions of making real hobbyists out of these guys, but I could sell them on the idea of it being a fun way to spend a few Sundays, and if the bug did end up biting a couple of them, then so much the better. I'm your pusherman. televiper fucked around with this message at 05:19 on May 13, 2011 |
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May 13, 2011 05:17
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This seems like a stupid question for me to be asking this late in the game, but... what amperage should I be charging 2S 5000mah LiPos at? I have the Accucell 6, and I've just been charging at 6A since it automatically reduces the amperage as it balances & charges. Now someone's mentioned to me I should charge at 5, while someone else says 2.
TremorX fucked around with this message at 18:58 on May 13, 2011 |
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May 13, 2011 18:55
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IIRC in 'the beginning' you were supposed to charge at about 1C, which for a 6000mAh pack is 6 amps. But don't quote me on that. The other day I was charging 5300mAh packs at 5 amps and they were fine.
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May 13, 2011 19:06
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TremorX posted:This seems like a stupid question for me to be asking this late in the game, but... what amperage should I be charging 2S 5000mah LiPos at? I have the Accucell 6, and I've just been charging at 6A since it automatically reduces the amperage as it balances & charges. Now someone's mentioned to me I should charge at 5, while someone else says 2. Check the batteries, find the recommended charge rate. 1C (5 amps) is the safe charge rate, but many newer batteries can be charged at at least 2C (10 amps for your packs). My Hyperions are good to 5C, and the new Thunder Power 65C discharge batteries can be charged at 12C.
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May 13, 2011 19:14
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Horrible lovely cellphone pic but   Finally got the SC10 4x4 put together! It loving hauled rear end just zipping up and down the hallway. The clicker sounds hilarious under braking and off throttle turning. I can't wait to get it to the track this weekend! Ended up going with a Tekin RX8 and their 5.5t SC4x 550 motor. Should be a very stable setup even with the extra weight of 4wd. The truck is pretty light compared to the Jammin's and losi 4x4s I've played with... will be interesting to see how bad it gets pushed around on the track.
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May 14, 2011 07:05
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VibrioCholera posted:I can't afford it and don't need it but what are the Ken Block Fietas like? From what I've heard, they're basically an E-Revo with a different body. So, i'd imagine they're pretty loving boss, truth be told.
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May 14, 2011 20:43
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The gymkhana cars from Traxxas are pretty cool - on smooth concrete/asphalt you'd be able to do all the slides and tricks, but on bumpier surfaces you would be able to pull off rally-style racing and jumps and stuff. I think they're based on the 1/16th E-Revo chassis so they are pretty robust.
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May 14, 2011 22:32
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SC10 4x4 had it's inaugural outing yesterday. The thing flat out rips. I did a few minutes of warmup to get used to the truck and see what kind of temps the motor was showing... motor 115 esc 105  . After a 5 minute main the motor came off at 153 and esc 116. I guessed right on pinion size!I ran close to the box setup other than putting 5k fluid in the diffs (which were prebuilt, but had only a light coating of fluid on the gears) and minor suspension changes from AE team driver's setup sheets. It worked alright but man was it a handful. Since I was running on a very tight indoor track I went with the clicker instead of full time 4wd. It had so much steering it was prone to traction rolling - if I let off the throttle in the sweeper the fronts would disengage and bam instant traction roll. In the tighter sections the steering was amazing. I could get the truck rotated very quickly and it just shoots out of corners. Long story short it's a pretty amazing truck that's in need of a good setup to tame it down a little bit. But, I was running about a second faster than I do with mod sct at this track with no trigger time... and managed to pick off TQ and a first place in the A  I can't wait to get this fucker dialed in!
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May 16, 2011 13:36
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Gualtiero Picco Passed on 5-15 -11. Apparently he was into nitro RC tether racing. I have never heard of it but it looks cool / dangerous. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=555aeQlPprY
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May 17, 2011 00:48
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(((k))) posted:Gualtiero Picco Passed on 5-15 -11. Apparently he was into nitro RC tether racing. I have never heard of it but it looks cool / dangerous. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=555aeQlPprY Sorry to hear anybody passing but that poo poo is dumb.
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May 17, 2011 01:01
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(((k))) posted:Gualtiero Picco Passed on 5-15 -11. Apparently he was into nitro RC tether racing. I have never heard of it but it looks cool / dangerous. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=555aeQlPprY Those guys are way too easily amused. How is that even fun?
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May 17, 2011 01:09
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VibrioCholera posted:Those guys are way too easily amused. How is that even fun? IT'S A SPORT!
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May 17, 2011 01:10
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VibrioCholera posted:Those guys are way too easily amused. How is that even fun? You're building a little car that goes 200mph, you've got to admit there has to be some fun and satisfaction in that, even if it only goes in a circle.
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May 17, 2011 01:26
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me and a work buddy just bought 1/16 Losi SCTs. we have some nice peaky speed humps in the carpark so we should have some fun once they are charged (wall chargers  ).was looking at the brushless SC18s but the ground clearance just seemed too low for my taste.
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May 17, 2011 05:47
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