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Torch Red, $11,500
Tide fucked around with this message at 01:02 on May 21, 2011 |
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May 21, 2011 00:57
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 18:44 |
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That's a seriously good price. I have a hard time believing you'll see much, if any, depreciation on that as long as you keep it in good condition. Mach Is are pretty drat awesome. I'll take mine in oRenj9 fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 21, 2011 |
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May 21, 2011 01:05
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Eh, it's not a fabulous price, but it's not bad. If that's the car you want, go for it.oRenj9 posted:I'll take mine in Sonic Blue though. Not if you want a factory color. Mach 1s got the badass Azure Blue instead. 
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May 21, 2011 01:17
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frozenphil posted:Eh, it's not a fabulous price, but it's not bad. If that's the car you want, go for it. God drat that's beautiful. I wasn't looking for one before, but I am now.
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May 21, 2011 01:52
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frozenphil posted:Eh, it's not a fabulous price, but it's not bad. If that's the car you want, go for it. My boss races a mach 1 that color. Lovely car, too bad about the driver. 
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May 21, 2011 02:15
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Test drove it... Really really tight, exceptionally clean, stock from the filter to the exhaust tips. Made an offer a little bit lower than what he was asking. He didn't seem thrilled about it, but said he'd think about it (meaning he'd take a few days/week to see if anything better bit on it). Personally, I would rather have the azure blue or the dark shadow grey. But finding either around here is a bit tough; even tougher is to find any color that hasn't been beat on to death. The torch red one I'm looking at has a full service history, garage kept, and driven by an older gent that looks to be in his mid 50s. I'll sleep on it a few days and see what happens.
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May 21, 2011 03:12
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Tide posted:The torch red one I'm looking at has a full service history, garage kept, and driven by an older gent that looks to be in his mid 50s. Don't assume this means it hasn't been beaten on. My Dad just turned 57, and he still drives his cars hard. Still, you probably won't have to deal with a PO who loved burnouts and powershifting, but don't assume it's been driven softly the whole time.
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May 21, 2011 03:35
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Oh I don't. But everything was way too tight to be abused. It is a Mustang, so some beating is to be expected out of 99.999999999 percent of them.
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May 21, 2011 03:44
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I have my heart set on a magnaflow competition exhaust. Eventually I want to replace the entire exhaust system but for now I want the more aggressive sound. What's my best bet? Get the magnaflow axleback now, and wait to get a header / x-pipe / midpipe set when I have the money/time? Who makes the best catted x-pipe (car has to pass smog in Cali when I move back next year)? Could I do the headers myself if my only previous experience is a cat-back on my 300ZX?
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May 22, 2011 08:35
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Swapping out headers can be a royal pain in the rear end on any car. I wouldn't recommend it for any shade tree mechanic - unless you have access to a lift and can drop the K member. It can be done on a set of ramps and working from the top, but there's so little room to work with.
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May 22, 2011 16:32
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To be fair, coming from a 300zx he'll probably welcome only having to drop a k-member to do the job. That engine bay was designed for people with flexible noodle arms and baby hands.
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May 22, 2011 16:58
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RockSmart posted:I have my heart set on a magnaflow competition exhaust. Eventually I want to replace the entire exhaust system but for now I want the more aggressive sound. If you want the more aggressive sound, get the cat back. Just be aware that you're not going to pickup any power from the cat back; you're just going to be louder. If you want to pick up power, then get an x-pipe with high flow cats from Lethal or whoever; they've been proven to add around 20hp.
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May 23, 2011 03:52
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Tide posted:Swapping out headers can be a royal pain in the rear end on any car. I wouldn't recommend it for any shade tree mechanic - unless you have access to a lift and can drop the K member. It can be done on a set of ramps and working from the top, but there's so little room to work with. The base shop rents lifts at like 2 bucks an hour. I have a friend who put headers into his GTO, maybe with his help I could manage.
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May 23, 2011 06:02
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RockSmart posted:I have my heart set on a magnaflow competition exhaust. Eventually I want to replace the entire exhaust system but for now I want the more aggressive sound. From what I understand you won't get much from replacing the stock headers, they flow incredibly well from what I've read. The real horsepower gains are going to be from losing all the emissions stuff but I'm curious what I can get away with in Mass. From what i understand touching anything behind the cats can make passing inspection difficult.
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May 23, 2011 12:02
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frozenphil posted:If you want the more aggressive sound, get the cat back. Just be aware that you're not going to pickup any power from the cat back; you're just going to be louder. If you want to pick up power, then get an x-pipe with high flow cats from Lethal or whoever; they've been proven to add around 20hp. I got the Magnapack catback for loudness, and Magnaflow hi-flo catted x-pipe. Though, I have a hard time believing you can get 20hp from an x-pipe (unless you have alot of previously bolted on parts). I admit you can feel a boost of power coming when WOT and you go from 2000 to 4000 RPMs.
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May 23, 2011 16:57
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kalvick posted:I got the Magnapack catback for loudness, and Magnaflow hi-flo catted x-pipe. The stock mid pipe is really restrictive on these cars. It necks down to like 2.25" after the cats and then back up to 2.5" before reaching the resonators that neck down to 2.25" before going back up to 2.5" before the mufflers. The stock cats are also a big restriction as just swapping the cats out has shown 10hp or so. So far throttle bodies, CAI, and axle back exhausts have proven basically worthless. However, a tune, mid pipe, and long tube headers have all proven to add significant power. The BOSS intake also shows power improvements, but it sacrifices low and mid range power to make more top end power.
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May 23, 2011 17:17
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frozenphil posted:stuff about midpipes.... I whole-heartedly agree! also.... a note to sound changes for the previous quy asking about sound/noise level. You can also go with a hi flow (catted or not) h pipe, The h pipe will make your car sound like a throaty 70's muscle car, or you can get an x pipe which will give you a raspy noise like a Nascar vehicle. The x pipe will give you (just slightly) better HP than an h pipe.
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May 23, 2011 19:10
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frozenphil posted:The stock mid pipe is really restrictive on these cars. It necks down to like 2.25" after the cats and then back up to 2.5" before reaching the resonators that neck down to 2.25" before going back up to 2.5" before the mufflers. The stock cats are also a big restriction as just swapping the cats out has shown 10hp or so. I guess not being able to gain 100 horsepower with a handful of bolt ons is one of the drawbacks of buying a well engineered car, yeah?
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May 23, 2011 19:22
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kalvick posted:The x pipe will give you (just slightly) better HP than an h pipe. The h-pipe will give you slightly better torque and low/mid range power, power that you will use most frequently in day-to-day driving. Also never mix x-pipes with chambered mufflers or h-pipes with open mufflers unless you enjoy sounding like a redneck truck with no mufflers. You get that lovely blat blat blat sound when accelerating. RockSmart posted:I guess not being able to gain 100 horsepower with a handful of bolt ons is one of the drawbacks of buying a well engineered car, yeah? Boss intake, CAI, tune, long tubes, offroad x-pipe, and a full cat back exhaust puts most people around 450rwhp; about a 100hp increase for $2500 or so. Personally, I'd just do a tune with an x-pipe and a full cat back exhaust first. Once mid-11 second ETs got boring I'd do the suspension and save up for a supercharger and torque converter while running bottom 11s. After the supercharger and torque converter you'd be solidly in the 10 second ET range and I'd think about the Boss intake and/or long tube headers. At that point you're nudging, if not into, the 9s and it's time to evaluate just how much of a race car you want to drive on the street every day. Of course, the real answer is to skip all of that and save up for a turbo kit. Spend $6k and go run mid/bottom 10s out of the box.  The base Hellion kit uses a little 64mm turbo pushing 6psi. It made 540hp and 605ft-lb on a completely stock 5.0. The upgraded 76mm turbo at 12psi made 640hp and 758ft-lb on the same car.
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May 23, 2011 20:25
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It's not uncommon for a car to be well-put-together stock, but still have pretty good potential for easy power gains. The Mazdaspeed3/6 have an INSANELY restrictive intake, and I know the SN95 had a similar thing due to including a 'silencer' to meet sound emission standards. Pull that silencer out and you got some actual power gains, and I think it even improved MPG. Basically, emissions are a common bottleneck and replacing them with well-breathing parts makes for badical gains.
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May 23, 2011 21:09
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CombatWombat posted:It's not uncommon for a car to be well-put-together stock, but still have pretty good potential for easy power gains. The Mazdaspeed3/6 have an INSANELY restrictive intake, and I know the SN95 had a similar thing due to including a 'silencer' to meet sound emission standards. Pull that silencer out and you got some actual power gains, and I think it even improved MPG. To be fair, a lot of those restrictions may have other purposes as well. The MS3 intake is indeed horribly restrictive, but after you do it, you're pretty much only one or two mods away from needing a tune and upgraded fuel pump to keep the engine together. The Camaro historically had some terribad parts too (like the exhaust) which served both to be built to a low cost, and keeping power down from the same powerplant in the Corvette. Speaking from experience with a LS1, X-pipes are the way to go.
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May 23, 2011 21:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:To be fair, a lot of those restrictions may have other purposes as well. The MS3 intake is indeed horribly restrictive, but after you do it, you're pretty much only one or two mods away from needing a tune and upgraded fuel pump to keep the engine together. The Camaro historically had some terribad parts too (like the exhaust) which served both to be built to a low cost, and keeping power down from the same powerplant in the Corvette. The LT1 did pretty well with just a few bold ons as well. Anything is going to run better without emissions equipment. I'm probably going to do a tune next but I'm debating the CAI. I'm not really big on useless mods and I'm afraid the CAI is going to lead to more poo poo in my cylinders than performance.
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May 24, 2011 00:34
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kronix posted:I'm probably going to do a tune next but I'm debating the CAI. I'm not really big on useless mods and I'm afraid the CAI is going to lead to more poo poo in my cylinders than performance. You just have the GT500 axle back as far as mods go, right? If so, a hand held tuner should be your next purchase. It should have been your first, but you already hosed that up. :p After that I'd go with the mid-pipe of your choice. The tuner and mid-pipe should be worth in the neighborhood of 40rwhp.
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May 24, 2011 02:54
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frozenphil posted:Of course, the real answer is to skip all of that and save up for a turbo kit. Spend $6k and go run mid/bottom 10s out of the box. I'd like your take on the turbo kits vs. the bolt on superchargers from FRPP, Rousch, etc. Also, how well will the bottom end hold up? How much life is a power adder going to take off my engine?
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May 24, 2011 08:08
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frozenphil posted:You just have the GT500 axle back as far as mods go, right? If so, a hand held tuner should be your next purchase. It should have been your first, but you already hosed that up. :p After that I'd go with the mid-pipe of your choice. The tuner and mid-pipe should be worth in the neighborhood of 40rwhp. The only reason I got the axle back first was that I got a fantastic deal on it on some other forum from some guy who didn't really like the sound of it. Somewhere south of $200 for a part that lists $300+ everywhere else so I jumped on it. Any recommendation on who to pick up the tuner from? I can't decide whether to pick one up from lethal or american muscle.
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May 24, 2011 13:37
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I don't know what the gently caress this stuff means: Worked 12 hours straight today helpin' pops get this thing ready.   Battery is dead and the fuel rail is leaking. Gotta pull the upper intake back off and figure out what we hosed up. We're behind schedule. Races are this weekend and the only days our tuner can dyno tune are today and tomorrow night. 
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May 25, 2011 04:19
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I need a car cover, bad. I don't have a garage here (I will when I move back home in January) but I have to park under a tree and it's like a bad joke, birds poo poo on it, and now it seems like the tree itself is making GBS threads on it. There's a ton of covers, though, and it's impossible to tell which ones are quality, or will even fit. They say "all mustangs" but dammit the antenna isn't even in the same spot. Who makes the best cover for a 2011?
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May 25, 2011 14:07
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RockSmart posted:I need a car cover, bad. I don't have a garage here (I will when I move back home in January) but I have to park under a tree and it's like a bad joke, birds poo poo on it, and now it seems like the tree itself is making GBS threads on it. I've done the car cover thing and even if it sounds like a good idea, if you're moving the car more than 3 times a week it's a waste of time and money. It's reasonably difficult to keep the thing clean and if it's not clean do you really want a dirty piece of fabric blowing in the wind and smacking against the car? It's a lot more useful on a car that's going to sit for 5 or 6 months, like in the winter or something. It's not super useful if the car moves at all.
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May 25, 2011 19:00
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I have been eyeing this cover for years. http://www.touchlesscarcover.com/ its like a pop up tent. I want one so bad... but I know that its not designed for outdoor. and its not really that strong against the elements and winds. I also wish something like this would come out for cars. http://www.autoanything.com/car-covers/69A4286A0A0.aspx its an accordian cover for motorcycles. Both of these covers would be perfect for me because I don't want one of those god awful plastic garages in my backyard making my property look lovely. the other 2 cover options take up hardly any space and when not in use can be tucked away into a small profile. Best of all the covers dont touch your paint and get wind damage.
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May 26, 2011 16:01
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True Street cars are getting ridiculous. This one is a 430ci small block Ford with twin PT88 turbos. It just ran 7.81 @ 179mph in testing. For those of you who don't know, True Street class cars have to have insurance and lights and all that, however, they also have to do a 30 mile cruise through stop and go traffic before they race. Once they get back from the cruise they aren't allowed to touch their car before their 3 back-to-back passes. There are no other restrictions on the class. It's truly run-what-ya-brung street racing, except it's at the drag strip. tl;dr: 7 second street cars are now among us. 
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May 28, 2011 00:40
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Where do they allow you to register a caged car?
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May 28, 2011 01:54
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sliderule posted:Where do they allow you to register a caged car? Do they come out and look at your car when you go to get registered in your state?
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May 28, 2011 02:11
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frozenphil posted:Do they come out and look at your car when you go to get registered in your state? One of the reasons Alabama is pretty great.
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May 28, 2011 02:45
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Goddamnit, my 06 is doing the "acts like it's full when it's half full" gas tank thing. Does anyone have personal experience with this?
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May 28, 2011 02:49
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frozenphil posted:Do they come out and look at your car when you go to get registered in your state? They ask for a safety certification.
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May 28, 2011 02:55
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A.o.D. posted:Goddamnit, my 06 is doing the "acts like it's full when it's half full" gas tank thing. Does anyone have personal experience with this? You mean it shuts off early at the pump? If that's the case, my dads car does it. Turns out its a huge problem and a PITA to fix. Solution? He just turns the nozzle sideways at the pump. Go figure.
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May 28, 2011 03:20
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Slow is Fast posted:You mean it shuts off early at the pump? Also, you can pull the nozzle out about half an inch.
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May 28, 2011 04:22
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sliderule posted:Where do they allow you to register a caged car? Cages aren't illegal, just a terrible idea if you're not wearing a helmet and harness.
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May 28, 2011 05:23
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Got a question that I can hopefully find an answer for; over the past month or so, my AC system has had a musty/mildew smell when I use the AC system, after a bit of internet digging it seems to be that the most likely culprit is the condenser drain being clogged and holding the water from when I run the AC which allows mold/mildew to grow. I've never had any of the floor mats get wet/damp when it rains or I wash the car, so I don't think the leak is from the cowl drains or grommets that I know can come loose. I've already replaced the cabin air filter and tried using a spray to kill any mildew/mold, but I noticed also, that when my AC is running there is no water dripping underneath the car at all, which is the primary reason why I'm thinking the condenser area isn't draining. Anyone have any experience with this and know where the drain is located? I've search high and low for the answer but Google just brings up useless information for the most part, or people asking the same question and not getting a response. I really don't want to go to the dealer for such a simple issue. Edit: Forgot to mention this is for a 2005. Marux fucked around with this message at 18:45 on May 28, 2011 |
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May 28, 2011 07:49
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 18:44 |
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sliderule posted:Where do they allow you to register a caged car? It varies from state to state and inspection station to station. I think lots of places will bitch about aftermarket seat restraints before the cage.
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May 28, 2011 14:30
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