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djhaloeight posted:Replaced oxygen sensor and dropped the trans pan to replace filter and fluid on my '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic. Oof, how much of a bitch was the sensor to remove? Up here in PA the road salt usually results in the loving bung twisting off with it.
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May 18, 2011 08:20
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Sponge! posted:Oof, how much of a bitch was the sensor to remove? Up here in PA the road salt usually results in the loving bung twisting off with it. I drove the car to warm it up some...let it cool down a bit, then hit it with some PB Blaster. After about a half hour I took the 1/2" impact to it and it came right out 
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May 18, 2011 08:48
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thelightguy posted:Unplugged the torque converter clutch solenoid on my Jimmy. Which goes well with the ABS pump which has been unplugged since shortly after I got it because a replacement for it it is It should only be a matter of time now, 700R4s with the TCC disabled almost always die. The torque converter will be slipping like hell in overdrive and will generate a shitload of heat.
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May 18, 2011 08:55
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and 
x 70 for a car barely worth that much.
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Oh I'm well aware, but hopefully it'll make it the 3 weeks until I can get it to a shop so they can tell me what's wrong with it specifically. And if not, well, time for another early 90s junkyard Chevy. Anyway, that transmission was done for 5 months ago when I accidentally bumped it from overdrive into reverse at 70mph. 
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May 18, 2011 09:20
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Went to my parents house and changed the oil in my brother's car. First time ever. Wouldn't have done it if I hadn't been lurking here for so long, so uh...thanks AI. It was a fun afternoon of hanging out with my brother and dad, which is something we never really do, so it made it kinda worth it. Also, only spilled a bit and fortunately they had kitty litter handy.
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May 18, 2011 13:57
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thelightguy posted:Oh I'm well aware, but hopefully it'll make it the 3 weeks until I can get it to a shop so they can tell me what's wrong with it specifically. And if not, well, time for another early 90s junkyard Chevy. Nice. I will say this, a friend of mine drove around a late '80s K5 Blazer with a 700R4 that lost reverse, but still worked perfectly in every other gear, for more than a few years. Ended up getting into something less ghetto eventually but as far as I know that ungodly 700R4 was still holding up just fine. And yet, the one I put in my truck died after 20,000 miles, despite treating it right the entire time.  lovely rebuilds
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May 18, 2011 18:21
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I found this old computer joystick in my parent's attic a few months ago, so I thought I'd put it to good use. It has 2 snap switches still in it, so I figure I ought to put them to good use. Any ideas? I was inspired by the Subaru 80's digital dashes in the Most AI Pictures thread. (The High Life beer tap handle has broken so many times it's beyond repair. I must've repaired it 15 times.) VV: Need some nitrous up in this bitch. Asshole Bicycle fucked around with this message at 01:39 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 00:53
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One switch through a relay to flash your highbeams? Or both together required to pop the trunk?
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May 20, 2011 01:37
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Do something equally 90s. Wire it up to one of these spliced into your amp.
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May 20, 2011 01:41
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Was gonna give the 9-5 a spring tune up, plugs, air filter,was gonna do an oil change on monday, as we're closed for victoria day  Went to the local canadian tire, and they wanted 99 bucks for an air filter, decided against that, said they didn't have an oil filter that would fit my car and the only spark plugs they had (supposedly) were 20 bucks a pair. So I ended up doing none of that.But I did fix my bumper! It was hanging a bit from a hyundai decided to stop in the middle of an icy road on a blind corner, and I decided a snow bank would be softer than their bumper. Also removed a heat shield that was rattling.
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May 20, 2011 01:42
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Four Banger posted:said they didn't have an oil filter that would fit my car Get the oil filter for a 2003 PT Cruiser Turbo. Make sure it's for the Turbo. Motorcraft FL-400S or compatible - It will take a touch more oil, though. Something like 5-8oz. Helps (a little) with sludge. For an air filter, the K&N K33E2455 shouldn't run you more than $70, at most. I figured what the problem with my 9K was. Replaced harder, better cam with one from a 92T. Runs fine now. Wunderbar.
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May 20, 2011 01:47
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Viggen posted:For an air filter, the K&N K33E2455 shouldn't run you more than $70, at most.
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May 20, 2011 02:06
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trying to do rear pads and rotors when 90% of the tools you didn't think you'd need are in your toolbox at work kinda sucks
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May 20, 2011 17:49
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My Dad and I spent a lot of time getting nowhere: Lucas
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May 22, 2011 04:29
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Viggen posted:Do something equally 90s. "You could have hours of fun trying out all 20 different effects" That doesn't sound very convincing.
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May 22, 2011 05:57
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Ditched the slip yoke and wimpy OEM shaft. 
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May 22, 2011 15:53
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I've been putting this off for a while, so I decided I would finally change my Diff fluid. At the same time, I figured I would make it easy on myself this time. So first, a trip to Harbor Freight, Lowes, and the parts store for supplies. But wait, that's a brake bleeder kit! What gives? Yes it is. $20.79 with a 20% off coupon from reader's digest. No sales tax in New Hampshire. I don't know why, but I get readers digest in the mail every month. I have never ordered it, must be a present from a relative or something.  With a little surgery and an air fiting, it's now a random fluid sucker.  OK, let's find that diff. Wow, that's a long way to reach. Is that a Gas tank or a life raft?  Welp, that bolt doesn't want to come out. Bring out the torch!  Eww, that's some nasty stuff. It's also probably older than 90% of AI.  Cut the the cap and stick a tube in it to put the new stuff in.  All done! Took about 2 hours, but everything takes forever when it's an old car. 
daslog fucked around with this message at 21:43 on May 22, 2011 |
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May 22, 2011 21:38
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Replaced the trunk seal and the driver's door seal on the 240d. I also installed a new drier in the A/C system. It's ready for flushing, vacuum and a charge of sweet illegal R12. Then I removed the B-pillar interior panel, removed a piece of trim that was looking pretty shoddy, and finally fixed my annoying twisted up driver's seatbelt. Then I went to harbor freight and picked up two of those roll-up 14-slot toolbags for the copious wrench collection I've amassed. One bag is metric, the other SAE.
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May 22, 2011 23:23
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I sprayed like a gallon of gas on my driveway. I replaced the fuel filters in my e34, and 540i's in particular have 2 of them. There's not actually two feed lines or anything like BMW's V12s, so there's little plastic tees that split the line to go to two filters, and then another to merge back to one. I put the new filters in, but I guess I didn't notice I broke the first tee but it was still attached to itself. I didn't feel like jumping the relay so I sat there and cranked it for a couple seconds waiting for it to start because the lines were empty, and I guess during that it broke the rest of the way. I couldn't hear the fuel just blasting straight out of a 255lph fuel pump on to the ground over the sound of the starter. I replaced the plastic tees with brass parts and replaced the hose and it's all good now.
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May 22, 2011 23:39
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I did an oil change, replaced a leaky vacuum pump gasket and the drive belts on my 300cd. A spacer on one of the A/C bolts dropped and I never found it, thankfully the uber-sketchy Pick and Pull had a 300td for once. I also picked up a mad tyte JDM oil cap and JDM yellow dipstick for my speed n' class XT (the XT stands for Xtreme Turbo). My engine bay is a superfund site, thanks previous mechanic for not removing all the old gasket material when applying a new one. 
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May 23, 2011 00:52
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Lowclock posted:I couldn't hear the fuel just blasting straight out of a 255lph fuel pump on to the ground over the sound of the starter. I replaced the plastic tees with brass parts and replaced the hose and it's all good now. You haven't lived until you do the following: *Start up your truck *Back it out of the garage *Wonder what that fuel smell is *Look under the driver's side frame rail to find your Walbro 255LPH giving your exhaust a 91-octane bukkake
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May 23, 2011 07:00
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Finally ordered a set of lowering springs for the Focus, only a 35mm drop so nothing mental but should just get rid of a little bit of arch gap and stiffen everything up a wee bit. When they arrive I'm going to make the most of the garage time and have a freshen up under the bonnet too, air/fuel/oil filters could do with changing, and I've noticed that one of the silicone elbows on the intercooler is starting to split, so I'll get a new one of those too. I'm sure I'll find some other bits while I'm at it. Got the Golf back on the road too, only to find that there's a massive crack in the windscreen. Luckily I'm covered for that on my insurance so I'll have to get that sorted before the MOT next month.
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May 23, 2011 14:11
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VolumeOverTalent posted:Finally ordered a set of lowering springs for the Focus, only a 35mm drop so nothing mental but should just get rid of a little bit of arch gap and stiffen everything up a wee bit. If you want, I have an upgraded rear engine mount left over from my wife's Focus.
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May 23, 2011 14:19
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MATLAB 1988 posted:I did an oil change, replaced a leaky vacuum pump gasket and the drive belts on my 300cd. A spacer on one of the A/C bolts dropped and I never found it, thankfully the uber-sketchy Pick and Pull had a 300td for once. I also picked up a mad tyte JDM oil cap and JDM yellow dipstick for my speed n' class XT (the XT stands for Xtreme Turbo). You weren't driving around Webster the other day were you? Every now and again I catch a 300sd clattering about on Big Bend, pulled right out in front of it I think Thursday night. Neat picture by the way, I need to check out my vacuum pump as well as the entire vacuum system soon and well, I wasn't even quite sure what it looked like. Lately I've been having some slow shutdown issues. I think it may be related to the EGR. And you say Pick n Pull has a 300TD? The wagon or just a turbo 300? I'd like to hit it for some parts soon. trouser chili fucked around with this message at 15:41 on May 23, 2011 |
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May 23, 2011 15:39
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I replaced my fuel filter and holy poo poo the old one must have been hosed because the car even SOUNDS different. There's definitely an exhaust note that wasn't there before, I swear I'm not crazy!
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May 23, 2011 15:48
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trouser chili posted:You weren't driving around Webster the other day were you? Every now and again I catch a 300sd clattering about on Big Bend, pulled right out in front of it I think Thursday night. Neat picture by the way, I need to check out my vacuum pump as well as the entire vacuum system soon and well, I wasn't even quite sure what it looked like. Lately I've been having some slow shutdown issues. I think it may be related to the EGR. That wasn't my car in Webster, but I have seen my gold 300cd's abused and dented twin occasionally putting around. It's about what mine will look like in 10 years of sitting in the sun/walmart parking lots. Plugging the vacuum line to the EGR disables it, as for testing the shutoff valve you can try plugging all the vacuum lines but the (brown?) one to the shutoff valve on the IP and turning off the engine with the key. If the engine shuts down immediately, plug in another system and try again. The door lock system with a blue vacuum line near the brake booster is usually the culprit whenever there's a vacuum leak. Pick n Pull had a 200k+ mile turbo 300d sedan that was wrecked in the left front and rear. The engine was complete (minus aircleaner) with accessories, most of the glass and outside trim were good. The black interior was missing the seats and cluster, had good door panels, console and carpeting. The wood four-switch panel had clearcoat cracks, the ashtray wood was nice and I left it in the glovebox. It had chrome windshield vent cowls, so I would grab those as they are a nice upgrade from plastic. I think I would also grab the metal oil cap and the brake booster hose as it occasionally breaks when it's shoved. MATLAB 1988 fucked around with this message at 17:38 on May 23, 2011 |
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May 23, 2011 17:36
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Warning:  ahoy!Changed the tie rod ends, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, and oil filler cap (stupid vented thingamajig that got lost years ago) on my dad's 1983 Ford Ranger 2.3 l4 (one of the originals!) The truck has always had a hard time starting, and because it had an ill-fitting, non-vented oil filler cap, the entire engine bay was covered with oil spray. Also, the original, auto-choke, electronic-something carburetor took a poo poo six or seven years ago, so my cousin (redneck) and I (uubernerd) somehow wrangled a carb from a '77 Ford Grenada on there, and ran a manual choke inside. It's a hosed up truck, but my dad likes having a backup, and it always starts as long as it's got a good charge. Lately he's had to use it more, as I gave my car (motorcycle only for now) to my sister, who lives eight hours away, and my mom takes the main vehicle to work. Dad bought the truck new in dec 1982 when the 1983 Ranger first arrived. 220,000 miles. My dad also missed out on the recall for the paint; after a year or two, the new-fangled electropainted Blue paint was shown to be defective and Ford offered to respray all of the Rangers, but since he missed it in 2003 we painted it matte black rustoleum roll-on. Also, I think in the late 90's the ammeter took a poo poo so he replaced it, but he replaced it with a 20A one not a 5A one, so the needle is useless as it doesn't really move at all. The two rearmost spark plugs weren't even tightened, and were rattling around. (Thankfully?) the oil mist had created a thick enough gunk to partially seal the plugs and give the truck a modicum of compression. Unthankfully, the plugs were original (!) and all four were mostly white powder from the threads down. Wires/distributor/etc were also all original, as were the tie rods and suspension bushings. After changing the plugs/wires/cap/rotor, new tie rod ends (inners were surprisingly good as they were greaseable and he greases them every year, outers non-greaseable), and seafoaming the poo poo out of it, the truck actually runs and steers like a proper horseless carriage. Out of the original 86 horsepower, we may have it back up around the 40's!
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May 23, 2011 18:59
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Not MY ride, but I fixed the door handle on mom's car. Also, gently caress dealerships that tell you it'll be 3-4 weeks and they'll call you when it comes in... then call you to inform you they're sending it back if you don't pick it up ASAP (oh and btw we've had it for over a week now). The good news: the new handle was already painted and looks brand new, they even matched it to the paint code by the VIN! The bad news: the rest of the paint is 8 years old... and looks it.    It was surprisingly easy, once I managed to find the clip attaching the rod to the old handle. 3 10mm bolts for the handle/lock, and a handful of phillips screws to get the door panel off. 2003 Toyota Avalon, if anyone actually cares. Just broke 110k and still runs/drives like the day she drove it off the showroom floor. Oh, the dealer quoted her $400 "and we won't charge you for the labor" to replace the handle. I got the handle from the same dealer for $80. And yes, I did give the dealer the VIN to make sure they got the right color, and it looks like they still managed to get a different color.. edit:
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:33 on May 24, 2011 |
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May 24, 2011 03:18
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Not today as much as Saturday, but I finally got around to replacing the front passenger wheel bearing on the Evo. It was starting to growl around turns as the driver's side did, but didn't have any discernable wheel play. I knew what I was in for from doing the driver's side a few weeks ago and had the hammer and punch ready. Sure enough the bearing was rusted stuck in the knuckle. It took probably a half hour of beating with a hammer and punch to knock it out. Still ended up being a 3 hour job, but it was worth it. The car is so much quieter now, and it's nice to not have weird noises when making sharp turns. Bad news is that I discovered that the tie rod boot is torn to hell like something from the road got in there and hosed it up. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 15:43 on May 24, 2011 |
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May 24, 2011 15:32
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Got a misfire code for cylinder 5 a few days a go. Fortunately, this is where the coil is on cylinder 5: All the other ones take more effort to remove. This one is the least work. I ordered an aftermarket replacement for $15 and on it went. No codes have come up and it sounds normal, so I think it's good. I didn't have any dielectric grease to seal the outside of the boot, so I'm running that risk 
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May 24, 2011 15:40
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Only had it two days and had the new exhaust ready and waiting. Its just a cat-back muffler and intermediate pipe. Old and busted.  New and freshness.  On jack stands and me laying under the car it took almost 5 hours to remove the existing one and put in the new. The one thing I have learned is gently caress EVERYTHING ABOUT EXHAUST HANGERS. No amount of WD40 and screwdrivering could make up for my lack of leverage under there. Next time im just buying my own hoist. Now that it is on though it sound fantastic. Almost as quiet as stock at idle, and coasting is silent too, but mash the giggle pedal and it sounds fantastic!
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May 25, 2011 13:01
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daslog posted:
I tried to get the cat fur out of my car's carpet and failed, I think I'm going to have to pat it down with an entire roll of duct tape. The cat wanted to sleep in my car all winter. 
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May 25, 2011 14:51
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Finally rehung my back bumper cover - stepdad smacked it pretty good when he came home from work half asleep one morning, and it's been sitting 2" lower on the left side ever since. He still denies doing it even though there's an imprint of his license plate on my bumper. 
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May 25, 2011 14:56
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Changed my leaking oil pan gasket. Judging from some missing bolts, I think someone else might have attempted the same thing at some point and half-assed it. Luckily there were 2 bolts in the flywheel cover that were almost identical to the bolts for the oil pan (just a bit shorter) so I swapped one of those in. I think the cover will be ok considering it's also held on by two giant bolts, one of which goes through the rear engine stiffener.
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May 25, 2011 15:33
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I picked up a new gas cap for the RX8 and and got the shop to order the parts for the power steering recall on my wifes mazda 3. Tentacle Party posted:Only had it two days and had the new exhaust ready and waiting. Its just a cat-back muffler and intermediate pipe. What exhaust is this? I keep thinking puting one on my RX8 thinking that a little more noise would make driving the car a little more fun.
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May 25, 2011 15:49
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Besides swapping out my old, lovely carburetor and radiator with shiny new replacements (and back up to 33.5 mpg average  ) I spent an afternoon watching Beatleguese and turning my car's factory repair manual from a lame broken-binding book into this:  Now the pages won't rip out, nor get covered in grease or oil.
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May 25, 2011 15:57
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One of the vacuum lines in my Citroen Xantia was slowly destroying itself, causing the engine do all sorts of fun stuff. Replaced that yesterday, and it just got worse.  I had to unplug and move few cables so I could install the new line, and I guessed that maybe one of them got dirt etc. in them, so today I went and cleaned the connectors + blasted them with WD-40 for good measure. And while I was there, I changed the air filter, and unplugged the battery so the ECU could reset itself. Seems to work fine now.
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May 25, 2011 17:55
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some texas redneck posted:Oh, the dealer quoted her $400 "and we won't charge you for the labor" to replace the handle. I got the handle from the same dealer for $80. And yes, I did give the dealer the VIN to make sure they got the right color, and it looks like they still managed to get a different color..
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May 25, 2011 18:03
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Seat Safety Switch posted:White fades a little from UV damage, I bet. It does, but I finally double checked the part number they gave me. Turns out it's "Super White Pearl", not "Diamond White Pearl" (which is more of an off-white). Super white pearl was offered on the first generation Avalon. And the first and second gens use the same handle. Assfucks.Mom doesn't care, thankfully.. it wasn't a huge pain to replace, just tedious, and getting the rod off of the old handle was a pain in the rear end. Not something I want to repeat. Still, aside from a few scratches on the front bumper, her 8 year old Avalon still looks new, inside and out, so it bugs me a bit. If it was my car I wouldn't give 2 shits, there's zip ties holding both of my bumpers on for fucks sake, but I didn't buy mine new.
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May 25, 2011 20:16
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Aha, I knew that handle looked familiar. My mother-in-law's '98 Camry had the same thing happen, and the new handle stuck out just the same - I figured it was the fact that I bought it for drat near nothing on eBay, though. She didn't mind or possibly even notice. I noticed but didn't mind, I hated that car.
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May 25, 2011 23:11
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