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Kashwashwa posted:ECS Tuning Just to add my experience with them...they're located about 5 miles away from where I live. I needed some VW repair wires to redo the headlight harness in my Focus (factory HID uses VW connectors for some reason) that cost less than $2 each. They were going to charge me $15 to ship them via UPS, across town. When I called to inquire if they would do local pickup the person I spoke to all but told me to go gently caress myself. I literally hung up the phone while the person on the other end was still going off on me. So not so great on the customer service - they could have just said "no" without lashing out at me over the phone. After doing some ~internet sleuthing~ I turned up a number of people on VW specific forums saying that they're well-known for gouging on shipping costs. I'd run as far away from them as possible. Of course if they already charged your credit card you're probably hosed. Geoj fucked around with this message at 19:25 on May 21, 2011 |
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May 21, 2011 19:22
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Geoj posted:ECS Tuning I used to live about 20 minutes from EuroCar Service and I've known the owners (father and two sons) that own/run the business since the mid-'90s. At one time I was part of their "group" and had free run of their shop/services/insight/etc. Overall, the three of them are good guys. The shop has been there for decades and they built the business on service of European cars, before their VW/Audi specialization, it was pretty common to see all kinds of foreign cars and exotics in their lot. It was an interesting place back then. About '98 or so, I got them set up with a copy of the ETKA and at that point, their business began to change. With access to all the part numbers from the ETKA, combined with their distributor contacts, they were able to get good pricing on rare parts. From there, the business snowballed. I moved away from there about 4 years ago and had lost contact with them a couple years before that. As soon as their business started to explode, they got too busy for their old customers. I don't say this with any bitterness, it's just what happens when the scale of their business drives them to interact with the "bigger" players (at that point their suppliers). Let I talked to them, they were building a new warehouse facility, though I haven't seen it. I think they grew too fast to deliver quality service. They move a lot of product, sure, but in my opinion, while their "bottom line" was always their unhidden focus, it's to the point that their individual customer service has really taken it in the shorts.
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May 21, 2011 19:37
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Anyone have instructions on how to take a door panel off for an '06 A4? My mom got back and the window won't go up, it just makes a crunchy noise. I'm pretty sure the glass is off the track, but I don't know where to start getting at it.
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May 23, 2011 03:50
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TrueChaos posted:Anyone have instructions on how to take a door panel off for an '06 A4? My mom got back and the window won't go up, it just makes a crunchy noise. I'm pretty sure the glass is off the track, but I don't know where to start getting at it. The glass isn't really off it's track - what's happened is the winder mechanism (two cables wound around a spool) has failed so the crunch noise you're hearing are the cables tearing up the plastic spool they're supposed to wind around. The winder assembly and the window guides are all one piece so you'll be replacing the whole thing to repair the window. Is it a front door because if it is, replacing the mechanism is a bitch. If I recall correctly, the entire glass and upper window frame must be removed to service the lifter for the window and that can only be done after you remove the inner trim panel which isn't too hard: Remove lower part of armrest (oval-shaped cover). – Remove 2 bolts from door trim. – Unclip decorative panel and remove 4 bolts. – Pull off decorative paneltoward front. – Remove 4 bolts from door trim. – Unclip bolts from door trim. – Raise door trim upward approx. 20 cm out from door shell. – Disengage Bowden cable for interior door mechanism. – Disconnect electrical harness connectors. With the door panel off, remove the window regulator motor (three T30 Torx screws). After that, remove the 6 or so large Torx bolts (T45 I think), disconnect any wiring harness you can find and then lift the entire frame, glass and mechanism out of the lower door. The window guides will have to be replaced because they're a one-piece affair with the cable winder that's making the noise you're hearing. The guides are usually riveted into the assembly you've just removed so you have to cut/grind them away and re-rivet them back in later. I really wouldn't advise doing this job at home - it's a pain in the rear end and if I remember right, the labor charge isn't too bad - maybe 3 hours plus $200ish for the part but don't quote me on that.
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May 23, 2011 16:59
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my1999gsr posted:The glass isn't really off it's track - what's happened is the winder mechanism (two cables wound around a spool) has failed so the crunch noise you're hearing are the cables tearing up the plastic spool they're supposed to wind around. The winder assembly and the window guides are all one piece so you'll be replacing the whole thing to repair the window. To the dealership Tuesday morning it goes! Thanks for the info though, this sounds like something I'd absolutely hate doing. I'm sure they'll enjoy it!
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May 23, 2011 18:05
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I have a '96 Jetta (GLS 2.0). I just bought it (as is) a couple weeks ago. Previous owner said it has been sitting for almost a year. I'm going to change the oil, air filter and plugs. I already replaced the passenger window regulator, but it also has a failed regulator in the back. The window is stuck in the up position. Is there an "easy" way to get the regulator out? I have a replacement, but the clip is messed up (from pulling it from a wrecking yard without being able to roll the window down). Any advice? Also, am I correct in assuming that oil in the intake hose and oil that smells like exhaust indicates a bad pcv valve?
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May 23, 2011 18:55
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Just took my 2010 Jetta TDI in for its 10k service last week and they mentioned there's a software update for the ECU and radio. I'm getting it done on Thursday. What's been updated?
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May 24, 2011 02:59
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My Audi hates me and the feelings starting to become mutual. 2003 Audi A4 1.8t with around 80k. I cannot, for the life of me, get these cooling problems to go away. I have already replaced the thermostat and a fan module, and 2 other components I don't even remember the names of. The warning keeps returning after a week or two, and my needle keeps running into the red. Does this godforsaken engine have any "famous" problems with the cooling system I need to know about as well? It seems like everything that happens to this car, from both window regulators breaking on the same day, to the strange phantom noise I hear when sitting in the car with the engine off (sounds sorta like a ghost is adjusting the electronic side mirrors. All loving day. Forever), everyone who owns a B6 is like "Haha yeah they're known for that." This car is frighteningly close to getting driven into a wall intentionally.
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May 24, 2011 07:20
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Nermal. posted:My Audi hates me and the feelings starting to become mutual. Water pump? Any bubbles in the cooling system while the engine is running?
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May 24, 2011 07:30
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Nermal. posted:My Audi hates me and the feelings starting to become mutual. Besides the water pump already mentioned, did you hot-water test the new thermostat before you put it in? And have you checked your radiator for blockage? an oddly awful oud fucked around with this message at 12:06 on May 24, 2011 |
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May 24, 2011 12:04
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I've got to agree with the water pump. Mine poo poo the bed at 38k. If you've made it to 80k, that's probably the problem. Do the timing belt at the same time. Don't trust that fucker to 105k like the manual says.
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May 24, 2011 16:02
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Yeah, waterpump - they're famous for making GBS threads the bed on the 1.8T. Pull the thermostat out and feel around in the cavity it sits in - I bet you'll find pieces of the water pump's impeller. The ghost noise you're hearing is most likely the HVAC system moving the blend doors after shut-down - it's a common enough complaint but not a problem usually.
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May 24, 2011 20:29
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mrbucket posted:Just took my 2010 Jetta TDI in for its 10k service last week and they mentioned there's a software update for the ECU and radio. I'm getting it done on Thursday. They don't tell is specifically what is changed on the flash updates besides a generic "this is the problem, the flash is the repair." or "programming is changed to eliminate the fault/problem." I'd imagine the update is for 02 sensor operation though - we've done lots of those.
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May 24, 2011 20:31
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No advice for how to remove a stuck window regulator without breaking the clip? drat. I called the local dealer and found out the pcv valve on that '96 Jetta 2.0 is $135! I have heard that cleaning in carb cleaner can be effective for some. Does anyone know if this is one that that trick will work on? Is there somewhere to get one at a reasonable price? Is there a universal one that works?
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May 25, 2011 00:11
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my1999gsr posted:Yeah, waterpump - they're famous for making GBS threads the bed on the 1.8T. Pull the thermostat out and feel around in the cavity it sits in - I bet you'll find pieces of the water pump's impeller. The ghost noise you're hearing is most likely the HVAC system moving the blend doors after shut-down - it's a common enough complaint but not a problem usually. They are fairly famous for making GBS threads the bed in most Audi/VW products, especially when they had that damned plastic impeller. Makes me glad my TDI got upgraded to the metal impeller
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May 25, 2011 01:04
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Very close to pulling the trigger on a 2011 Golf TDI loaded up with every option except nav for 25k. Screaming deal, car is very new so hopefully should have one of the quietly revised HPFPs in it. Anyone have any thoughts - like run screaming? For the record I commute about 20-25 miles each way, so this would slay my Mazdaspeed3 on gas, to the tune of around $1,300 a year.
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May 25, 2011 05:08
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This has only happened about four times in the few months I've had my 2011 Golf TDI. It presents with two different symptoms: the car feeling rough when idling; and the shift suggester will being way off (e.g., wanting me to downshift even at 1500rpm or more on a flat road). The rarity means I haven't really been able to figure out what the hell could be causing it. When this happened yesterday I shut off the engine and walked away for 10 minutes and the issue resolved itself. Any ideas? Nevergirls fucked around with this message at 05:52 on May 25, 2011 |
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May 25, 2011 05:34
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my1999gsr posted:Yeah, waterpump - they're famous for making GBS threads the bed on the 1.8T. Pull the thermostat out and feel around in the cavity it sits in - I bet you'll find pieces of the water pump's impeller. The ghost noise you're hearing is most likely the HVAC system moving the blend doors after shut-down - it's a common enough complaint but not a problem usually. Where can I get a better impeller for the water pump if and when I find out that's the problem? Also... thanks for telling me what that strange scary noise was. I was always worried that it was doing that for hours and hours, slowly draining the battery.
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May 25, 2011 06:08
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Nermal. posted:Where can I get a better impeller for the water pump if and when I find out that's the problem? A non-plastic waterpump is usually aftermarket - we never get OEM pumps with the metal impeller so you'll have to call around and see where you can get one in your area. Next time you're at your local VW shop for service, mention the noise you're hearing - you might need a basic setting performed on the ventilation system. Not a big deal, but a basic setting might shorten the duration of the noise.
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May 25, 2011 12:53
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wntd posted:This has only happened about four times in the few months I've had my 2011 Golf TDI. Possible that it is doing the burn cycle on the smog filter?
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May 25, 2011 16:39
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Volkswagen 2006 60k miles Rabbit. Well I popped the hood the other day and saw the Coolant tank was completely empty, not even at the minimum level. I don't know how long I've been driving the car like this and I wanted to punch myself. Now I check under the hood every time I fill up, and the coolant level has remained the same since I refilled so I don't think it is leaking. My question is, There should be an indicator that goes off when the coolant level gets low. Mine never went off. I am pretty sure I should have this feature because there is a digital connector thing plugged into the top of the coolant tank. What can I do to get this working again?
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May 25, 2011 17:47
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General Audi maintenance question: I bought an A4 (1.8t, quattro) about a year ago. It's got about 64k miles now, and I anticipate taking it in for its scheduled 65k maintenance soon. The only thing I've done as far as maintenance is change the oil, and I have no idea what the previous owner did, aside from replace the battery shortly before I bought it. The standard 65k check-up includes only: oil, wipers and washer fluid, tire check and rotation, lubing the wiper arm pivots (wtf, really?), and a brake check. I'm wondering what else I should consider having done when I take it in, especially considering that I know very little about the history. I don't know a hell of a lot about cars, but I'm already considering doing a full fluid flush on all fluids, and replacing the timing belt. Is 65k too early for a timing belt replacement? My manual says 90k and I've heard it's more like 75k, but a quick survey of this thread leads me to believe that 65k isn't unheard of. How much does a fluid flush on everything usually run? I've been told (by a non-mechanic) that a new timing belt's going to cost around $2,000. Is that about right? Thanks in advance.
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May 25, 2011 19:29
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Bovine Delight posted:Very close to pulling the trigger on a 2011 Golf TDI loaded up with every option except nav for 25k. Screaming deal, car is very new so hopefully should have one of the quietly revised HPFPs in it. Anyone have any thoughts - like run screaming? That doesn't sound like a very good deal. I just bought a brand new 2011 Golf TDI with premium sound, bluetooth, cold weather (so missing sunroof + nav) for $23k.
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May 25, 2011 19:41
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Nostrum posted:That doesn't sound like a very good deal. I just bought a brand new 2011 Golf TDI with premium sound, bluetooth, cold weather (so missing sunroof + nav) for $23k. Agreed. I thought the Golf was $23,000 loaded as the base price....
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May 25, 2011 19:46
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Blakkout posted:General Audi maintenance question: Seeing how you don't know how well the car was taken care of it wouldn't hurt to replace the timing belt. I would shop around though, I think a reputable indie can do it for 1000 or less. I would have thought most higher end cars would have all switched to chains by now though.
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May 25, 2011 20:46
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veedubfreak posted:Possible that it is doing the burn cycle on the smog filter? Doubtful - it's not supposed to have any effect on driveability. I wonder if the exhaust flap is seizing shut or open but there's usually a MIL light or a logged fault for it.
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May 25, 2011 22:45
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Blakkout posted:General Audi maintenance question: Do the timing belt for sure, they've been known to break as soon as 80k but it shouldn't cost $2000, more like half that.
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May 25, 2011 22:49
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Progression Please posted:Volkswagen 2006 60k miles Rabbit. Well, check to see if the sensor in the coolant tank is really messed up. Unplug the sensor and start the car. The warning light and buzzer should light up. If nothing happens then it's time for more diagnosis.
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May 25, 2011 22:50
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Billy Tully posted:Do the timing belt for sure, they've been known to break as soon as 80k but it shouldn't cost $2000, more like half that. Yes, timing belt is a MUST. But like he said, should be way less than two grand....shop around at (reputable) shops first, look for maybe a shop that specialized in VW/Audis or Euro cars.
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May 25, 2011 22:54
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Nostrum posted:That doesn't sound like a very good deal. I just bought a brand new 2011 Golf TDI with premium sound, bluetooth, cold weather (so missing sunroof + nav) for $23k. Sunroof and xenons add around 1,700 according to the options, so it's pretty comparable. Where did you get your car from? I'm basically pitting dealer vs. dealer but here in Texas it's almost impossible to get any deals. The dealers are barely budging since they know they'll sell the car for close to, if not full, MSRP.
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May 26, 2011 03:06
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veedubfreak posted:Possible that it is doing the burn cycle on the smog filter? After looking it up that sounds right, but according to the manual there should be a DPF light that goes off in the instrument panel. Perhaps I've just not noticed it.
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May 26, 2011 03:34
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I've dropped off my A4 at the dealership because of the CEL which is almost assuredly due to a diverter valve failure (it's the first-gen 2.0T engine which tends to have that problem). Now, the CEL went on about a week after I had had a full inspection of the car made, and the dealership's service department told me at the time that they didn't find anything wrong with the car. Is a DV failure something which could have been predicted by the inspection? I'm just curious as to whether I should express dissatisfaction at the timing of the events when I go pick it up. I'm already annoyed enough at being stuck with a Dodge Journey to drive around today (the cheap nastiness of that vehicle truly knows no bounds).
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May 26, 2011 15:22
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My air conditioning stopped working and i'm curious if it should be covered under my warranty. The fans no longer work unless set to the highest possible setting and the AC unit no longer produces cool air. I purchased it in Aug 2008 and have just over 25,000 miles on it, so i'm within the 3-year/36,000 mile new vehicle limited warranty. Just wondering if I should foot the bill or is this repair gonna be on VW's dime?
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May 27, 2011 23:09
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ShowTime posted:My air conditioning stopped working and i'm curious if it should be covered under my warranty. The fans no longer work unless set to the highest possible setting and the AC unit no longer produces cool air. If you're within the warranty period absolutely take it to the dealer.
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May 27, 2011 23:22
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Bovine Delight posted:If you're within the warranty period absolutely take it to the dealer. Oh i've already set an appointment, i'm just wondering who has to pay for it.
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May 27, 2011 23:24
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el topo posted:I've dropped off my A4 at the dealership because of the CEL which is almost assuredly due to a diverter valve failure (it's the first-gen 2.0T engine which tends to have that problem). Now, the CEL went on about a week after I had had a full inspection of the car made, and the dealership's service department told me at the time that they didn't find anything wrong with the car. Is a DV failure something which could have been predicted by the inspection? I'm just curious as to whether I should express dissatisfaction at the timing of the events when I go pick it up. I'm already annoyed enough at being stuck with a Dodge Journey to drive around today (the cheap nastiness of that vehicle truly knows no bounds). There's no way to tell if the DV is bad unless a fault shows up for it or it's inspected visually which requires removal. It's just a case of bad timing.
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May 28, 2011 00:04
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ShowTime posted:My air conditioning stopped working and i'm curious if it should be covered under my warranty. The fans no longer work unless set to the highest possible setting and the AC unit no longer produces cool air. Sounds like two different problems. If your interior fans only run on setting 4 than you've got a blown fan resistor. If you're not getting cold air with the A/C on and the fan on then you've got a problem with the A/C itself - a R134a leak, boned compressor or something similar. If you've still got warranty then of course it'll be VW that pays for the diag and repair... Unless you've had some kind of collision that punctured your A/C condensor or something. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 00:10 on May 28, 2011 |
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May 28, 2011 00:07
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How easy is it to remove the center console trim pieces in a B7 ('08) A4? I have the Symphony II stereo with no nav and I'd like to hook up an aux in and route the connector to the little tray under the arm rest. I can't seem to find good instructions for how to get the trim off anywhere online. It's a 6spd.
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May 28, 2011 03:18
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I'm looking at new/used cars to be a daily driver and the GTI is on the shortlist. I was wondering if you guys could give me a basic breakdown of MKV and MKVI (or even IV) and the engine packages? Trying to educate myself here but the forums and sites I've found make me want to burn myself.
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May 28, 2011 16:42
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havelock posted:How easy is it to remove the center console trim pieces in a B7 ('08) A4? I have the Symphony II stereo with no nav and I'd like to hook up an aux in and route the connector to the little tray under the arm rest. I can't seem to find good instructions for how to get the trim off anywhere online. It's a 6spd. Sedan or Avant?
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May 28, 2011 17:02
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