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I've had to replace 2 interior door handles on my own cars in the past, but never an exterior handle... and I normally drive beaters or cars just barely above beater status, aside from my last car. Surprised the poo poo out of me when it broke, it really doesn't seem that flimsy, and the car's a 2003 with a little under 110k on it. It was also the passenger door, and she rarely has passengers in the car...  Unfortunately, she just got one more reason to "sell it before it falls apart"... She's never owned a car with more than 50k miles before, nor had she ever owned an import before this car. She swears up and down it's on its last legs, even though she has the newest and nicest car out of 3 in the house. 
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May 25, 2011 23:19
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One of the lever arm shocks I bought from nosimports.com for my MG a year ago developed some lateral play in the arm. Lever arm shocks also serve as the upper control arm, so that play manifested itself as severe shaking at above 40mph. Peter at nosimports is widely considered THE lever shock guy. He rebuilds them with internal improvements that are supposed to make them almost lifetime shocks. (The shocks were originally designed to slowly leak oil to keep themselves lubricated, but refilling the reservoirs is a huge pain. Peter has fixed that with modern sealed bearings.) I called up, shipped mine back, and now he's sending me a new one with a check to reimburse my shipping, no questions asked. I love customer service!
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May 26, 2011 16:38
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z3bracak3 posted:Any chance you were at Suffolk Downs last weekend? Not unless they moved it to NH
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May 26, 2011 23:24
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Nothing to a car, but: My electric weed-eater wanted to stop working. I was getting crap for output and I could tell it was rubbing inside of the plastic shroud. So, I took it apart, tested the wobble on the shaft - which wasn't too bad for a $5 20 year old weed eater - and pulled it back a bit to ensure it'd have better mobility. Reassembled, then the switch-cum-variable-resistor decided to stop working, so I took that bit apart, cleaned the contacts, and now it doesn't want to make a good connection at full pressure. 
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May 26, 2011 23:31
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evilnissan posted:What exhaust is this? Considering it's a series 2 rx8, it is probably the Racing Beat exhaust. I'm probably gonna pick one up for mine down the road but I opted for the BHR midpipe with high flow cat first. Entered a time attack this weekend at Mosport DDT. Did alright considering I'm still fine tuning my suspension and I'm not corner weighted. During the official timed runs we were given four laps (one warm up, two hot, and one cooldown) and my Hankook RS3s didn't heat up until the third lap. I got a time two seconds slower than my 'Test & Tune' time. Next time I'm gonna pay closer attention to my tire pressures/temps and have the balls to turn the DSC and TCS off to pick up some extra time. The results are here: https://www.sigmatimeattack.com. If anyone is in the Toronto/Bowmanville area, I urge you to come out, it was a great day and a lot of fun. You get a wireless lap timer and about 6 hours to tune your vehicle. There's a timed session afterwards. All for $160.
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May 26, 2011 23:50
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 My 99 junkyard 1MZFE. Just finished cleaning everything. In process of replacing valve stem seals and working on the heads. Need to order some OEM headgaskets before I button it all back together. Everything in that picture engine related cost about 300 bucks total. Woo! Budget builds! I have to now watch this video 30 more times to motivate myself enough to get it into the MR2; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WAGPPRWWmA
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May 27, 2011 02:02
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daslog posted:Not unless they moved it to NH Today I found out my insurance down payment for my car will be $460, so I did nothing to my ride cause I have no money.
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May 27, 2011 02:07
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I drove through a rail trestle.  I'm an operations manager on a shortline railroad, and we tore out the rails on half of a trestle we use, and often use it as a shortcut when tooling around in our yard. When I was making a turn, I either cut it to quick, or we just had a weak spot in the wood and welp there goes half of my truck. Luckily, I got out before it got worse, as its over about a 60 foot drop. Tomorrow, we're using a crane to lift it out and get it back in solid ground, where I'll find out exactly how bad the undercarriage is destroyed.
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May 27, 2011 02:50
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That's some scary poo poo.
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May 27, 2011 03:51
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You get to do all the cool stuff. 
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May 28, 2011 00:09
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Kotaru posted:
if 1MZFEs are available for that cheap I should get one, rebuild it, tear out the old and tired one in my car and pop in the fresh one.
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May 28, 2011 00:27
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I grabbed the spare out of my E30 at Copart so I could do this:  I feel much better about these than I did about the stock 5-spoke 14's with the nearly dead RT-215's on them. Taller, too, so I should be getting some marginally better mileage. My foot is too heavy on the go pedal for that to matter anyhow. It was painful seeing my E30 again.
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May 28, 2011 00:30
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I wondered why the inside of my intake manifold had fuel in weird places before the injectors. Found out my fuel pressure regulator must have a bad seal or something on its diaphragm. Not only was it straight sucking gas through it, but it also wasn't regulating like it's supposed to. Once I replace the  Lucas injectors with some nice clean and matched Bosch ones and button it back up I'm betting I'll see some improvement.
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May 28, 2011 09:32
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Beast Pussy posted:if 1MZFEs are available for that cheap I should get one, rebuild it, tear out the old and tired one in my car and pop in the fresh one. $200 at a You-Pull-It.
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May 28, 2011 13:33
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kimbo305 posted:I didn't have any dielectric grease to seal the outside of the boot, so I'm running that risk You can use plain 'ol petroleum jelly if you don't have any dielectric grease available. Not quite as good, but does the same thing.
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May 29, 2011 06:44
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Took just over 4 hours to give the car its first wash. Wash, dry, clay, wash again, wax, buff, detail and finally polish the glass.  Also pulled the MAF sensor and sprayed it with CRC contact cleaner. Had a look at the throttle body too but it was clean.
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May 30, 2011 11:58
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Just finished replacing both head gaskets and the timing belt in my Subaru. I'll post some pics later in the Subaru thread.
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May 30, 2011 18:33
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did rear rotors and pads the other day to compliment the new rear calipers i did in january. found out that the underside is still made up of surface rust and seized bolts. thank god for acetylene, oxygen, hammers, vice grips and ratchet extensions.
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May 30, 2011 19:11
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Just installed a new exhaust donut on the scout. Apparently it's some weird size that no-one stocks, so I got one larger, cut out a section and melted it back together with MAP gas. Scout is quiet(er) again. In a few minutes I'm going to vacuum the A/C on the venison Volvo and charge it with some r134a.
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May 30, 2011 19:26
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The bores on the Motegi traklites are 22mm, making finding some locking lugs that actually could be put on rather annoying. I was going to go to Honda but my friend gave me his ~~~JDM tyte~~ lugs first. I also have JDM duct tape on the soft top tear. OEM  Works  New hotness  I've also been parking it out front to lure out beast pussy. ONE OF THESE DAYS. Toona the Cat posted:I drove through a rail trestle. Jesus christ that's some scary poo poo. Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 19:46 on May 30, 2011 |
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May 30, 2011 19:43
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Muffinpox posted:I also have JDM duct tape on the soft top tear. Aftermarket black Gorilla tape is way better.
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May 30, 2011 20:31
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No pictures due to constant swearing, but I changed the spark plugs on the LT1 in my '96 Roadmaster Wagon today. Miraculously, I managed to do it without removing anything except a few ounces of my own skin. What a ballache.
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May 30, 2011 22:00
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Disconnected the knock sensor to get rid of some nasty bogging between 2000-2500 rpm. Car's had a P0325 stored since I've owned it, but on most Nissans, it won't trip the CEL... just pulls timing like crazy if you leave the sensor connected. According to several people on the nissanclub.com forums, if you disconnect the sensor it stops pulling timing (but still stores the DTC). No more bogging! I'd replace the sensor itself, but it's only slightly less difficult to get to than the PCV valve - both are directly under the intake manifold (WTF Nissan?). The sensor has its own sub-harness that plugs into the main harness near the firewall, so disconnecting that part of the harness is easy. If you have a lift you can get at the sensor from below, but it's still in a really cramped spot. And even on Rockauto, the cheapest sensor is a little under $70. An OEM one, with a new harness, is $190 at courtesyparts.com. Apparently a ~500k resistor in the plug will get rid of the DTC entirely - once the engine cools I may try that. I don't drive it hard, nor is the timing advanced any, so I feel fairly safe bypassing it.
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May 30, 2011 22:13
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Tentacle Party posted:Took just over 4 hours to give the car its first wash. I love white cars and I love clean white cars. Awesome looking car. Love everything about it. It's perfect. Nice shot too.
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May 31, 2011 14:38
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I hit a deer going 70 on a freeway!
IcePhoenix fucked around with this message at 15:16 on May 31, 2011 |
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May 31, 2011 15:06
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IcePhoenix posted:I hit a deer going 70 on a freeway! I almost did this once but luckily the deer fell down when it jumped onto the road ahead of me and I ran it over with both passenger wheels instead, also doing 70
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May 31, 2011 15:15
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Muffinpox posted:I've also been parking it out front to lure out beast pussy. ONE OF THESE DAYS. If you ever park it near Publick House on a Thursday night I might catch it! I don't go into many other parts of the city as often as I used to but that may change now that its the season for cycling. I enjoy playing with cars in city traffic for some reason.
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May 31, 2011 16:16
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Got the new goodmark cowl hood on the other day, fits and looks great, and the cowl part that faces the windshield is a bunch of drilled holes in the steel instead of a big gap, looks badass to the people inside and that way crud doesn't fly in. Rebuilt 4 bolt main 350 out of a 71 Blazer with a cam and some other stuff and no smog should be in the car this weekend or next.
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May 31, 2011 16:42
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Ran new ignition switch and horn wires in the '68 Mercury where the horn buss bar somehow shorted out and burned the insulation off the ignition switch wire somewhere via the stupid accessory line that comes from the headlight switch--that is apparently unfused and doesn't run through the headlight switch circuit breaker (though it WILL overheat the damned thing and make it so you have no lights in the dark). Had the dash off for like two weeks before I got calm enough to trace the short down, but it's all back together now. Also figured out that the grinding sound was the RF wheel scraping on the control arm. Apparently an 8" wide 18" front wheel is too much with a ET 20 offset, I need a lower offset (AKA spacer) to clear. It's fine when the wheel is testfitted with the car in the air, but not when on the ground. Luckily, I can fit whatever the hell I want on the rear. Fuckin' Ford, now I see why nobody ran wide front tires in the 60's, you can't fit them under the car worth a crap if you have a smaller wheel.
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Jun 1, 2011 00:10
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Pretty Little Rainbow posted:Got the new goodmark cowl hood on the other day, fits and looks great, and the cowl part that faces the windshield is a bunch of drilled holes in the steel instead of a big gap, looks badass to the people inside and that way crud doesn't fly in. Finally! I've always liked your car, but it had that dang 305. Progress! Post video when you get it swapped.
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Jun 1, 2011 05:14
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I Probably will but it'll be a few paycheques before I have a better rear end in there so itll still have awhile to go before it's at the performance level I want.
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Jun 1, 2011 08:35
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I wrecked it!    Im fine just banged up and very stiff, the other driver pulled out in front of me and I had no time to stop. She was at fault. My glasses were the only casualty and that didn't even happen because of the accident. The x-ray lab had a student working today and he dropped something on my glasses no more then 30 seconds after taking them off my face for me 
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Jun 2, 2011 00:28
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More of a what I will be doing... - Rotors - Pads - SS lines - Fluid change - 710N recirc. valve.  Also, auropartsway.ca is pretty slick if you're from Canada and are looking for OEM parts. Shipped in 2 days, and no brokerage fee assfucking. Also, found out that there is a local guy who sells Hawk, koni etc. :http://www.hardcoreperformance.ca/. Decent pricing too, cheaper than online for the pads. Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jun 2, 2011 |
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Jun 2, 2011 03:49
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KickStand posted:I wrecked it! It's an Alero, no loss at all!
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Jun 2, 2011 04:02
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Rhyno posted:It's an Alero, no loss at all! more of an inconvenience then anything else
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Jun 2, 2011 04:06
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Put on my front plate with double sided tape... Using a stock Evo X side mount. I wanted to see how long I could go in CA without a front plate but I got tired of having to constantly tailgate people when I saw a cop car(fix it ticket is only $50) but it wasn't worth the stress. Parts used: 4x 3/8" threaded t-nuts with 1" diameter base 4x 3/8" short nylon bolts (you can use metal bolts if you prefer but lighter = better) 3M heavy duty mounting tape 6x 3/8 neoprene washers Lost of nylon washers (see below, I didn't record the size unfortunately) optional stuff: 4x M6x12 stainless hex cap bolts (you want stainless unless you like rust) License plate frame (I'm using a rear mount metal one from pepboys/autozone) Plastidip Matte white paint Back prepped for application. As you can see I'm using all 4 mounting points since my t-nuts are only 1" in diameter so I want as much security as I can get.  Rubber washers between the t-nuts and the mount account for the less than perfect fitment. The side mounts have 2 washers. The center mounts only have 1.  Here's my t-nut assembly. I didn't glue a bigger washer to the t-nut, it was already 1" in diameter which seems to be OK. Nylon washers so the nylon bolt has something to press against. Because I used more rubber washers on the sides, I needed less nylon washers for those mount points.  The nylon bolts stick out past the surface  To get clearance from the bolts without hacking them up, I'm using a rear mounted license plate frame as well as nylon washers. With this setup, the license plate just barely clears the highest protruding bolt.   Stainless steel hex cap bolts used to hold the license plate on. Painted matte white. Makes stealing my tags just a little more difficult. They are discreet and look nice too.  T-nuts adhered to the bumper.  N-nut section masked off for plastidip  Dipped moderately thick. This provides some weather sealing to the double sided tape and also masks out the shiny t-nuts which you can see from the top gap of the mount but just barely. Yeah I'm meticulous.  Finished.  You can hate on me for not drilling my bumper but that thing is on there tight. I accidentally snagged my pants on one of the t-nuts before I attached the mount and it didn't even budge and thats just one out of four. I would think this method would work on other cars too given the right prep work and fitment.
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Jun 3, 2011 01:16
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Shaocaholica posted:You can hate on me for not drilling my bumper but that thing is on there tight. I accidentally snagged my pants on one of the t-nuts before I attached the mount and it didn't even budge and thats just one out of four. I would think this method would work on other cars too given the right prep work and fitment. I'm not going to hate on you, but I'm confused as to why you would choose to do something like that. It's one thing to make it non-destructive, which it seems like double sided tape would be good for. But you did plenty of things that would require a re-spray to back out of. And at that point, what's the difference, other than not being as solid as if you bolted through the bumper?
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Jun 3, 2011 01:49
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Motronic posted:I'm not going to hate on you, but I'm confused as to why you would choose to do something like that. It's one thing to make it non-destructive, which it seems like double sided tape would be good for. But you did plenty of things that would require a re-spray to back out of. And at that point, what's the difference, other than not being as solid as if you bolted through the bumper? You wouldn't have to deal with having holes to fill in your bumper?
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Jun 3, 2011 01:57
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Motronic posted:I'm not going to hate on you, but I'm confused as to why you would choose to do something like that. It's one thing to make it non-destructive, which it seems like double sided tape would be good for. But you did plenty of things that would require a re-spray to back out of. And at that point, what's the difference, other than not being as solid as if you bolted through the bumper? Why would reverting it require repainting? I've put nothing permanent on the bumper. That was the whole point.
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Jun 3, 2011 01:58
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I think he is confusing plastidip with spray paint. The plastidip just peels off with a pressure washer.
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Jun 3, 2011 02:06
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