|
Sockington posted:I grab pliers and twist the rubber section back and forth until it spins freely. After that, it usually just pops off. Same. If it won't twist, i'll cut off the hose at the barb, then slice off sections like peeling bark off a tree. This thins the hose until it just crumbles off.
|
#
?
May 22, 2011 16:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 10:02 |
|
|
Best purchase in a long time! Matco's new 15" 3/8" Drive 88 Tooth ratchet. I have 3/8" Snap-On sockets up to 24mm, and 1", so it is awesome to be able to use the larger sizes in a small profile 3/8" ratchet in tight spaces with out sacrificing leverage:
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2011 20:10
|
|
|
I replaced my brake master cylinder and remembered how long bleeding takes the old fashioned way, and how poorly vacuum bleeding systems work. Pressure bleeding systems supposedly work well, but are expensive, so I'm trying something I've seen a few times around the web.  $10 sprayer with the nozzle cut off, some plastic tubing and a hose barb. The cap from my old master cylinder with its vent hole drilled to fit the hose barb. It worked to bench bleed my junked MC, but I want a way to read tank pressure before I try it on the car because 20psi max seems to be the prevailing opinion. Ideas? Tire pressure gauges aren't usually designed to give constantly updating measurements. I'd like to keep cost down because I'm under $20 so far.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2011 18:27
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:I replaced my brake master cylinder and remembered how long bleeding takes the old fashioned way, and how poorly vacuum bleeding systems work. This guy slapped on a pressure gauge if you really feel like you need a constant measurement, but I like the valve stem idea because that way you can pressurize the tank with a compressor.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2011 18:51
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:I replaced my brake master cylinder and remembered how long bleeding takes the old fashioned way, and how poorly vacuum bleeding systems work. This looks identical in functionality to my pricy Motiv unit. Works like a dream, as long as you have the right lid setup. Pressurize the master cylinder, go to each corner and just open the bleeder until fresh fluid comes out. Makes changing brake fluid so quick and easy you'll want to do it more often.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2011 18:51
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:It worked to bench bleed my junked MC, but I want a way to read tank pressure before I try it on the car because 20psi max seems to be the prevailing opinion. Ideas? Tire pressure gauges aren't usually designed to give constantly updating measurements. I'd like to keep cost down because I'm under $20 so far. I think you'd have to be dealing with some seriously high pressure before you'd be in any danger of damaging your brake hydraulic system. If you're paranoid though any low pressure (topping out at 100-125 PSI) gauge would do the trick. Something like this. You could just drill a hole in the bottle slightly smaller than the connector on the gauge, screw it in and then epoxy over the connector on the outside (inside too if you can reach it, taking care to not cover the hole that allows the gauge to function.)
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2011 20:51
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Tire pressure gauges aren't usually designed to give constantly updating measurements. I'd like to keep cost down because I'm under $20 so far. I've got a lovely cheap dial gauge from Harbor Freight that actually might work this way, since unlike any decent dial gauge I've ever used, it doesn't have a button to reset - as soon as you take it off the stem, it goes back to zero.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2011 21:11
|
|
|
Geoj posted:I think you'd have to be dealing with some seriously high pressure before you'd be in any danger of damaging your brake hydraulic system.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2011 22:27
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:The system, yes, but the master cylinder reservoir, especially if it's a plastic one, isn't going to like high pressures. They bleed plastic reservoir master cylinder cars on the vehicle assembly line with enough snot to make the tank blow up like a balloon. Sure, your 200k mile shitbox isn't going to take that the same way it did before it was ever even started, but it's really unlikely you'll hurt anything with any pressure you're going to get out of a hand pumped plastic spray bottle.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 01:24
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:The system, yes, but the master cylinder reservoir, especially if it's a plastic one, isn't going to like high pressures. Motronic posted:...but it's really unlikely you'll hurt anything with any pressure you're going to get out of a hand pumped plastic spray bottle. This. I have one of the Motive power bleeders he's trying to duplicate on the cheap. It has a pressure gauge, and by the time the gauge is over 30 PSI it becomes difficult to continue pumping. Furthermore, if you generate enough pressure to make the brake fluid reservoir explode what's stopping the bottle from the sprayer from likewise exploding? And if that's not enough, the weakest point of failure on his homemade power bleeder is the barbed connector on the reservoir lid. The hose will pop off and release pressure long before you're anywhere close to blowing up the reservoir.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 01:42
|
|
|
Geoj posted:I have one of the Motive power bleeders he's trying to duplicate on the cheap. It has a pressure gauge, and by the time the gauge is over 30 PSI it becomes difficult to continue pumping. Why would you possibly need to pump to that kind of pressure? I've used the Motiv bleeder with less than 10psi and had substantial flow out of the bleeders.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 01:53
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Why would you possibly need to pump to that kind of pressure? I've used the Motiv bleeder with less than 10psi and had substantial flow out of the bleeders. I see you've never bled the clutch on a 944.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 02:14
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I see you've never bled the clutch on a 944. ... because we were talking about bleeding brakes?
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 02:27
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:... because we were talking about bleeding brakes? Same reservoir, same tool. It's not that uncommon to have your clutch master reservoir as part of the brake reservoir.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 02:41
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Why would you possibly need to pump to that kind of pressure? I've used the Motiv bleeder with less than 10psi and had substantial flow out of the bleeders. audi calls for 2bar/30psi on my 2005 a4 
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 02:43
|
|
|
ITs not really automotive related, but there is a tool store near me and the owner is retiring. Tons of poo poo on clearance. Well, not any more but there is still some poo poo left. I was in there today and saw a Porter cable Teks Driver on clearance for less than 100$ Their list price was 464$. Now, that seems like a loving great deal. First question, I can't find much about it but it seems to me like its a drill thats used specifically for driving screws etc. What the gently caress is it for? Its it for people who spend a lot of time building decks and poo poo that are too lazy to hammer? Second question, I have seen them for sale online for ~ 150 bucks or so. Now this is online, where everything is fuckin cheap, but aside from the fact that its marked down like 350$ is this a good deal? That might sound like a no brainer, but at a regular retail place would something like that really go for 400$ +? I'm contemplating buying it and selling on Kijiji for say 350$, but I don't want to bother if some guy can go into a Home Depot etc, buy the same poo poo for 250, and this place just marks up their poo poo horribly. There are a few other things (P.C. portable belt sander, random orbital sander etc) that I might buy as well. Just for reference this is in  where poo poo is more expensive.Fake edit: Is porter cable a reputable brand? Like is it on par with the Milwaukees and DeWalts that everyone has big boners for??
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 02:47
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Why would you possibly need to pump to that kind of pressure? I've used the Motiv bleeder with less than 10psi and had substantial flow out of the bleeders. So you can do all four corners without stopping to repressurize the bleeder...? Also, I never said "I pump my power bleeder until the needle on the pressure gauge stops moving, every time I use it" just illustrating a point in regards to the "you're going to pop your master cylinder reservoir" comments.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 02:55
|
|
|
scapulataf posted:Fake edit: Is porter cable a reputable brand? Like is it on par with the Milwaukees and DeWalts that everyone has big boners for?? When I worked construction, a lot of the stuff we used was Porter-Cable. It stood up to our abuse. Granted, I didn't work there for very long, but I felt like them actually paying money for it was a sign of quality (they did not use cheap tools).
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 03:21
|
|
|
Teks is a particular type of self-drilling/self-tapping screw usually used in sheet metal applications. The Teks driver will probably have a hex socket to fit the head on the screw.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 14:36
|
|
|
Porter Cable USED to be a quality brand. Now they are right down there with the worst from Ryobi. Stick with Milwaukee or Bosch if you want contractor-grade. Dewalt is a good in-between.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 15:11
|
|
|
RapeWhistle posted:audi calls for 2bar/30psi on my 2005 a4 Dayam. I stand corrected.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 15:13
|
|
|
Chauncey posted:Porter Cable USED to be a quality brand. Now they are right down there with the worst from Ryobi. Makita > *. I'd go for a Milwaukee second. Nails are for roofing and finishing cabinetry/trim. An impact driver with screws for everything else. Well, drywall drivers are a specialty form, too, I guess.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2011 18:20
|
|
|
So I ended up getting a P.C. random orbital sander instead of the Teks driver. I might even use it at some point. This winter I'm going to be refinishing some of the wood on my canoe and a couple paddles. I know its not going to be good for tight contours, but it will probably eliminate 90% of the hand sanding that I'll be having to do. This particular model: http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-343VSK-5-Inch-Variable-Random/dp/B000H4G20G It seems to get pretty good reviews so we'll see how it works out.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2011 01:53
|
|
|
Anyone used those endoscopes HF sells? Are they any good? Edit: these http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-67979.html http://www.harborfreight.com/high-resolution-digital-inspection-camera-with-recorder-67980.html Not something I need every day or for anything specific, but it's something I've wished for several times and not had, and seemed like a nice tool for the toolbag. Would go into the bag with the thermal imager and power quality analyzer. Speaking of which, any feedback on these two, or any other nice-to-have equipment? I wouldn't mind having something I can interface with modern Caterpillar and Cummins diesel engines, too... grover fucked around with this message at 17:45 on May 27, 2011 |
|
#
?
May 27, 2011 03:16
|
|
|
grover posted:Anyone used those endoscopes HF sells? Are they any good?
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2011 15:18
|
|
|
grover posted:Anyone used those endoscopes HF sells? Are they any good? I've got the previous generation of the first one you linked. Good for some party tricks. I haven't really used it for anything auto-related yet, but it comes in handy for seeing what's inside walls through a hole you can hide behind molding or easily patch. I really want a flir, though. God drat I'd be checking the temperature signatures of everything I come in contact with.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2011 20:15
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:I really want a flir, though. God drat I'd be checking the temperature signatures of everything I come in contact with. Countdown to thermal imaging converging into cell phone cameras... grover fucked around with this message at 20:25 on May 27, 2011 |
|
#
?
May 27, 2011 20:20
|
|
|
CCDs are already sensitive to IR. They've got a hot mirror in front of the sensor.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2011 20:49
|
|
|
grover posted:Anyone used those endoscopes HF sells? Are they any good? I have this one. Bigger screen (which is detachable - huge plus) and the ability to record on a micro SD card. Been pretty happy with it, although I haven't had much occasion to use it yet.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2011 21:25
|
|
|
 So what's wrong with this picture? And yes.. I still have all of my fingers. That's a 10 year old craftsman circular saw. Which was brand new before I clamped it to the bottom of my workmate.  I'm happy with the results though. I will likely use this technique again.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2011 22:11
|
|
|
grover posted:Anyone used those endoscopes HF sells? Given how ubiquitous inexpensive CCD video cameras and small LCD screens have become I think these would fall under the category of "safe to buy at HF because its hard to gently caress up." Odds are they're buying the circuit boards and cameras from whoever makes them in China for major name brands and throwing them in "Cen-Tech" bodies. Black88GTA posted:Been pretty happy with it, although I haven't had much occasion to use it yet. This is the reason I haven't pulled the trigger on one yet. I can imagine its fun to have but I can count the number of things I would have an immediate need to have one for on one hand. Geoj fucked around with this message at 22:20 on May 27, 2011 |
|
#
?
May 27, 2011 22:17
|
|
|
grover posted:Anyone used those endoscopes HF sells? Are they any good? I own #67980. It works drat well and let me know every loving valve was bent in my Lightning when the crank broke. Edit, Found your FLIR TIS for almost a grand less than Gouger. http://cgi.ebay.com/Extech-FLIR-i3-Compact-Infrared-Thermal-Imaging-Camera-/130520451019?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e63a007cb R-Type fucked around with this message at 06:58 on May 28, 2011 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2011 06:54
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:
You are a crazy person.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2011 06:56
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:You are a crazy person. Indeed. If that saw ever cuts loose on you, it's going to get more than a pound of flesh.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2011 07:05
|
|
|
R-Type posted:Indeed. If that saw ever cuts loose on you, it's going to get more than a pound of flesh. Yes, it was redneck as hell. if I am actually going to use that technique again I think I'm going to make a sheet of plywood that will be the saw mount. That said, I don't foresee needing it much in the future. I know much more about the project I made, and can now cut all the pieces properly at one time. The delta table saw I was using to make the slats for my yurt turned out slats that were almost shiny due to how smooth they were. This thing left pretty rough edges.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2011 08:07
|
|
|
R-Type posted:I own #67980. It works drat well and let me know every loving valve was bent in my Lightning when the crank broke. I Want To Believe this poo poo will get cheap and common soon, but there's gotta be some valid reason they're charging over $1k for a 0.003 megapixel camera... Edit: hey, wikipedia to the rescue: wikipedia posted:The CCD and CMOS sensors used for visible light cameras are sensitive only to the nonthermal part of the infrared spectrum called near-infrared (NIR). Thermal imaging cameras use specialized focal plane arrays (FPAs) that respond to longer wavelengths (mid- and long-wavelength infrared). The most common types are InSb, InGaAs, HgCdTe and QWIP FPA. The newest technologies use low-cost, uncooled microbolometers as FPA sensors. Their resolution is considerably lower than that of optical cameras, mostly 160x120 or 320x240 pixels, up to 640x512 for the most expensive models. Thermal imaging cameras are much more expensive than their visible-spectrum counterparts, and higher-end models are often export-restricted due to the military uses for this technology. Older bolometers or more sensitive models such as InSb require cryogenic cooling, usually by a miniature Stirling cycle refrigerator or liquid nitrogen. 
grover fucked around with this message at 12:54 on May 28, 2011 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2011 12:49
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2011 12:57
|
|
|
My electrician uncle brought home a FLIR camera for christmas one year. What a glorious toy. Too bad they're friggin' expensive. Edit: Found some pictures. These were taken on christmas eve, I believe it was a few below freezing. My parents' house from the outside. Red on the right are windows, yellow/green to the left of those is a wooden wall. It could probably be better insulated:  Three windows, middle one is about 35 years newer than the other two:  Main entrance. With a brass doorhandle assembly aka. heatsink:  My dumbass brother:  Also, no thermal camera discussion is complete without this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FOM_2kCOaM bolind fucked around with this message at 13:55 on May 28, 2011 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2011 13:32
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend a good entry-level air compressor? I don't need anything huge, just something some possible air tools, filling tires, and also to use with this: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html I need to do some A/C work on my truck, and didn't see the point of spending one hundred dollars on a single-use tool. Fourteen ninety-nine is pretty good and it got decent reviews. I realize I have to get the gauges, too. I have read mixed reviews on the Craftsman compressor models. What size do you think I should get? Are the Lowe's/Home Depot models any good? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 05:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 10:02 |
|
|
porkfriedrice posted:Can anyone recommend a good entry-level air compressor? I don't need anything huge, just something some possible air tools, filling tires, and also to use with this: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html Maybe I'll have a go at fixing the AC in my Grand National. What are the steps you would generally take? Do you vacuum the H high pressure port and fill the low pressure port with refrigerant? Also what is recommended for refrigerant? I remember someone talking about R12 Freeze or something? Whatever it was it's supposed to be better than R134a and not a pollutant like R12.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 11:14
|
|