|
I need a recommendation for an electric impact driver - I'm going to be swapping the front wishbones on my volvo v70 & the bolts have been subject to the elements under the engine for 12 years. I'd like to keep it under £70 otherwise it'd be cheaper to pay to have work done.
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 16:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 20:34 |
|
|
porkfriedrice posted:Can anyone recommend a good entry-level air compressor? I don't need anything huge, just something some possible air tools, filling tires, and also to use with this: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html 4.2cfm@90psi continuous for two minutes is a lot of air. Given that it's harbor freight those numbers are probably low too. Something like one of these would be the smallest and cheapest I'd recommend. If that's too expensive, look on craigslist for something of the same type. They show up for a couple hundred bucks from time to time. This or this might work, but they get pretty terrible reviews and I don't know anything about the companies. It's tough finding a half-decent, oiled compressor for under $400. You could also go oilless and get down to $250 or so. They'll tend to be 2-3x louder, last 1/10th as long, and be pretty terrible for tool use. The only oil-less compressor I'd recommend is this one, and even then only because it's so cheap.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 17:08
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:I need a recommendation for an electric impact driver - I'm going to be swapping the front wishbones on my volvo v70 & the bolts have been subject to the elements under the engine for 12 years. I'd like to keep it under £70 otherwise it'd be cheaper to pay to have work done. You're probably going to need an air impact for that.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 18:10
|
|
|
The venturi style vacuum pumps need a LOT of air too operate. Just get the vac pump with the motor. Sell it on CL when you are done if you are sure you are never going to use it again.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 18:22
|
|
|
porkfriedrice posted:Can anyone recommend a good entry-level air compressor? I don't need anything huge, just something some possible air tools, filling tires, and also to use with this: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html As others have said, there is no way you will run that pump with an "entry level" compressor. In fact, that $14.99 POS will need an extra couple hundred dollars worth of air compressor more that what you need for the other things you described that you want to do with it. If it's a one-shot thing, you can likely buy a new pump and sell it for $30 less than you paid for it on CL almost immediately. Especially this time of year. Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Maybe I'll have a go at fixing the AC in my Grand National. What are the steps you would generally take? Do you vacuum the H high pressure port and fill the low pressure port with refrigerant? Also what is recommended for refrigerant? I remember someone talking about R12 Freeze or something? Whatever it was it's supposed to be better than R134a and not a pollutant like R12. If you're starting from an "open" system, replace the dryer, close everything up with new o-rings, and hook up a manifold gauge set. Start the vacuum pump and then attach it to the service line (center hose - yellow). Open both the high and low side and let it vacuum for longer than you think you need to. As the pressure drops, it will look like it's "leaking" because the pressure will go back up - this is good, it's boiling off the moisture and the vacuum pump is dragging it back out of the system. If you run the vac for 30 minutes or so, and then shut down the high and low side valves on the gauge and it holds with 1-2 PSI for 30 minutes, you're probably good. If not, repeat the process a couple more times. If it doesn't hold after that, you're looking at other issues. Got a vac? Good. Make sure the high and low sides are closed. Car off. Hook up a can of refrigerant. Please use R-12. Go find some, it will make you much happier. You need to take your cert online for $20 so you can buy it in small quantities. Then hook up the can properly, and open up the low side until you get ambient pressure in the system. You'll want to use some of the "first charge" stuff that has oil in it if there is no oil in your system at the moment (like if you've changed the compressor with a new one). Then you can start the car and charge as normal. Second reference today to my tutorial on that.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 19:00
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:4.2cfm@90psi continuous for two minutes is a lot of air. I thought the general consensus on here for an air compressor that's being used for anything besides filling tires, blowing dust out of electronics or running an air nailer was 7+ SCFM @ 90 PSI...?
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 19:21
|
|
|
Skyssx posted:You're probably going to need an air impact for that. The only air source I have is a hobby compressor for an airbrush with a 3l tank. I don't think that'll cut it & I have no space for a bigger one.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 20:36
|
|
|
^ If you can't get access to a good compressor & impact wrench you're likely going to end up needing one of these and an appropriate size impact socket for that job.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2011 20:43
|
|
|
Motronic posted:As others have said, there is no way you will run that pump with an "entry level" compressor. In fact, that $14.99 POS will need an extra couple hundred dollars worth of air compressor more that what you need for the other things you described that you want to do with it. If it's a one-shot thing, you can likely buy a new pump and sell it for $30 less than you paid for it on CL almost immediately. Especially this time of year. Maybe instead of entry level, I should have said a compressor that's not a piece of crap and will last a while, but isn't overkill for my needs. No sense spending one thousand dollars on a compressor I will never fully utilize. I will probably avoid the oiless models, so the models that oxbrain recommended are looking about right. Would one of those have enough power for that vacuum pump? If not, I might as well just buy the powered pump. The price of the pump will still be cheaper than the price of labor at a shop, I think. (Bad A/C compressor.)
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 02:25
|
|
|
porkfriedrice posted:Would one of those have enough power for that vacuum pump? If not, I might as well just buy the powered pump. The price of the pump will still be cheaper than the price of labor at a shop, I think. (Bad A/C compressor.) Barely. You may not be able to pull as much of a vacuum for as long as you'd want to. I've never had much luck with the air operated vacuum pumps on anything less than a shop compressor (think 60 gallon 240v Ingersol Rand 5 HP kind of thing, which pusts you really near $1k). The electric vacuum pumps are just a much better idea. If you aren't going to be using it more than occasionally, here's a really good one for the price. It's worked for me for a year now, and I've vaced systems 4 or 5 times with it. It pulls to 29 inches in under 10 minutes. The HF one I had barely got to 22", but that was several years ago. I'm sure they are sourced from a different sweat shop by now, so who knows.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 04:19
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Barely. You may not be able to pull as much of a vacuum for as long as you'd want to. I've never had much luck with the air operated vacuum pumps on anything less than a shop compressor (think 60 gallon 240v Ingersol Rand 5 HP kind of thing, which pusts you really near $1k). Thanks for that link. I probably will just say screw it and buy the motorized vacuum pump along with one of those decent compressors. I'll make good use of the compressor. I'll try to sell the pump, but even if I don't, no big deal. The savings from doing it myself will be worth it.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 06:04
|
|
|
porkfriedrice posted:Would one of those have enough power for that vacuum pump? Assuming it actually only needs 4.2cfm@90psi, any of those first three I linked should be plenty. The smallest is 5.3cfm, the larger two are 11.5cfm. The two 3.2hp ones are actually the same thing, made by campbell hausfeld, just different paint and the home depot one is refurb. Spare parts are easy to get, and the VT pump is a proven design. Keep up on the oil changes and it'll last decades. The tiny lowes one I'm not sure who makes the pump. It looks like an ingersoll rand design, but who knows who might have ripped that off. Parts may or may not be available, but it gets pretty good reviews and portability can be nice.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 07:40
|
|
|
Geoj posted:^ I have a 36" breaker bar & sockets but I was under the impression I'd need impact, not leverage to shift bolts like this?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 08:05
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:I have a 36" breaker bar & sockets but I was under the impression I'd need impact, not leverage to shift bolts like this? Well technically you never HAVE to have an impact on a car at least. It sure as hell helps though. Seems to be better for not stripping threads or breaking bolts when removing, and you can do it with one hand instead of muscling up a huge bar. Impact, however, is the only way to go for stuff like crank bolts and hub nuts where you would otherwise have to figure out a way to keep it from spinning. E: VVV You could have gotten it off without the impact, you just didn't have the tools or couldn't figure it out! I still wouldn't bother trying and just hit it with the impact though. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 22:50 on May 30, 2011 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 08:51
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Well technically you never HAVE to have an impact on a car at least. That's not really true. Off the top of my head, I can think of at least one job I've done in the last year where there was no alternative (struts on a 944 - there is no way to hold the strut shaft on most types, so you have to impact it off of the strut tower). I know there's other stuff, but I'm pre-coffee.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 13:31
|
|
|
I hate to retread through a topic that has already been covered (air compressors) but the thread is almost 100 pages long and I don't want to go hunt through it (I've read it I swear!) So the general consensus is get a 60 gallon oiled compressor? What was the recommended cfm? and HP doesn't really matter? Then do the air tools themselves really make a difference in quality? I guess I'd be looking at a decent socket set, a DA sander, and a paint gun.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 17:48
|
|
|
You should go for an oiled compressor they do seem to be better. As for size selection, my usually used compressor was the largest one I could get to run off a 13A mains socket. This lets me take the compressor to other places if I have to. I find it runs my spray guns fairly well, although definately runs out of puff on the 3" angle cutter. It runs the impact socket and air ratchet pretty well, as well as the nailers. I find it works well for my needs. The only thing it can't do is provide enough air for my air fed mask. I've been using my other small compressor to run the mask and the bigger one to run the spray gun but it is far from ideal. I don't spray too much so it hasn't been a problem. If you're wanting to run a DA sander though, I would imagine that would need a fairly hefty supply of air. It is really annoying having to stop after about 30 secs or so for the compressor to catch up. In the future though I'll probably get an 8hp honda engined compressor at the next vat free time at machine mart. It'd be to have the extra air for a few jobs here and there, and to run a sandblast gun. I think air tool quality very much depends on how much / hard you use them. Most of my air tools are clarke, and they've all served me well so far. They get oiled every time they are used and that's about it. If I had to buy another rattle gun I think I'd go for an IR one, my one is a little weak but does most jobs I need it to.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 22:01
|
|
|
Look up the tools you want to get. They should have a listing for "cfm@Xpsi." If psi isn't listed, assume 90. For tools that get run constantly, like sanders and spray guns, you want your compressor to be rated for 110% or more of what your biggest tool will need. For intermittent use tools, like an impact wrench, you can get away with a lot less pump as long as you have a large enough tank. Horsepower is only a general rule of thumb for determining what kind of outlet you'll need. 3hp motors can usually be converted to 120v and run on a normal 20a outlet. 5hp motors need a 20 amp 220v socket. 7hp and up get into three phase. Larger tanks are better, but 60 gallons is enough for most home uses and is a good price point. The only reason to go smaller is if you need it portable. Higher quality air tools will usually give more power for the same air use, but mostly it's just down to durability, comfort, weight, stuff you'd expect from better electric power tools.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2011 22:49
|
|
|
FYI if anyone is curious the $10 tiny Dremel clone Harbor Freight sells (this thing) is pretty terrible. I knew it wouldn't be that powerful because it's only 9-18 volts DC, but wow it couldn't even sand the edges of a block of wood without stalling.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2011 06:03
|
|
|
Right chaps, As part of my garden makeover, I'm building a planter out of railway sleepers. This means I need to cut them, some at right angles, some at forty-five degrees. A combination of a circular saw and a hand saw does work, but is awkward and slow. Is this a good excuse to buy myself a chainsaw, or can someone think of a better method? They're 8"x4" section. I'd prefer a neat cut, but I could make the initial incision with the circular saw for a clean edge and remove the meat with something cruder, if that would be easier.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2011 19:08
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Right chaps, Band saw or reciprocating saw?
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2011 23:13
|
|
|
Can you not just get a bigger circular saw. We've a pretty large hitachi one that we used for cutting roof beams which I think were 11" x4" They do give a nice cut and are easy to control on precision. If you do want a chain saw it'll be a little trickier to control precision and get a good finish. If the sleepers are creosoted they can dull chainsaw blades extremely quickly and tend to sludge up the works a bit. I've got a couple of Stihls and a husky xp. I think the Stihl saws have the edge, but they need the stihl chain oil as it is a bit thinner to get through their smaller oiling channels.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2011 23:27
|
|
|
Suniikaa posted:Band saw or reciprocating saw?  I wasn't sure about a sawzall-style saw, can they cope with a hefty slab of wood like that? Colonel K posted:Can you not just get a bigger circular saw. We've a pretty large hitachi one that we used for cutting roof beams which I think were 11" x4" Though I have just had a  moment and remembered that my dad bought himself a chainsaw last year (interestingly, using the same "Well, I want a toy, so I'm drat well going to find a reason I need it" logic as me). I should probably ask if I can borrow it and see how I get on.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2011 23:47
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Well, I've seen these kind of portable bandsaws, but they're not cheap, and a bit of a one-trick pony: I'd rent a big circular saw from HSS or somesuch for a day, chainsaw's going to give you a ragged edge?
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2011 00:04
|
|
|
When my dad and I built a few retaining walls out of 8x8 timbers, we made all the cuts with a chain saw. This was mostly straight cuts, with a few angle cuts where the wall made a turn. Just mark your angle, and cut carefully. It probably won't be absolutely perfect, but it'll probably be good enough. Plus, it gives you an excuse to buy a chain saw! I do recall sharpening the chain a lot, but this was probably... 150' worth of 5 or 6 timber height walls, plus the tiebacks into the hillside (looks like a big T, with the top buried in the dirt and the bottom nailed into the wall between 2 other timbers). All in all, it was a LOT of cutting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2011 05:15
|
|
|
 A 12" compound miter saw can handle some fairly large lumber and is more accurate than a handheld circular saw, especially when consistent angular cuts are needed. Decent ones can be pretty pricey however.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2011 06:56
|
|
|
Can all mitre saws take abrasive metal cut off blades? I have only really seen them on the drop saw type, as in the ones you cant adjust for angle. On that note, can your average hand held circular saw take metal cut offs?
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2011 12:20
|
|
|
I made a difficult mitre cut when constructing a deck last year with a chainsaw. They will do the job. Stihl saws can use anyone's bar oil. We don't even use Stihl oil when we prep a saw at work. Railroad timber is pretty much THE reason the Duro chains exist. Carbide cutters all the way around, lasts 5 times as long, needs to be sharpened by a diamond wheel. They're typically about $200 for a loop, though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2011 13:11
|
|
|
pazrs posted:Can all mitre saws take abrasive metal cut off blades? I have only really seen them on the drop saw type, as in the ones you cant adjust for angle. Using a miter saw to cut metal is generally a bad idea. You'll melt housings/light it on fire from the sparks and the speed a miter saw spins at is usually too high for chop saw disks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2011 14:30
|
|
|
I am going to give bad advice and say get a chain saw. Especially this guy.... http://www.echo-usa.com/product.asp?Model=CS-330T&Category=CHAINSAW Dear god that has to be one of the best saws I have ever used. I am going to replace my old rear end Echo for this one. The warranty is the best around, 5 years for the home owner, as long as you use their 2 stroke oil, which really is the same price as any one else. My Echo saw is a hand me down from my parents, and yet, after about 3 pulls on the cord still starts. I like the top handle design, it makes the saw feel more natural. Anyways, yes, my family is die hard Echo users. We have still have an old Stihl that gets used, but I find my self grabbing the Echo out the door.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2011 14:57
|
|
|
That thing is not going to cut sleepers and survive. It *is* a good price for a top handle, though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2011 16:28
|
|
|
Also to buy a one handed limbing saw in the UK you have to be a registered arborist. Perhaps the oil is on the smaller saw bars, We have a little one we use for limbing with the spring wind up start which is great, but we had a bar go. We were told it was due to it not getting enough oil because the oil passageways were narrower on stihls and thus a thicker oil didn't flow so well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 00:02
|
|
|
pazrs posted:Can all mitre saws take abrasive metal cut off blades? I have only really seen them on the drop saw type, as in the ones you cant adjust for angle. You can get blades for circular saws, but the same warnings apply. Also, I ruined my old craftsman circular saw when a masonry blade broke at the hub and the bolt just FUSED to the rotor and resisted all attempts to remove it  Was OK, though, gave me a good excuse to go out and buy a way better laser-aided one!
grover fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jun 2, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 00:29
|
|
|
I use my miter saw on metal all the time. The plastic parts around the blade are melted, and sometimes it catches on fire a bit, but it still works fine.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 06:03
|
|
|
Some experimentation with cutting from either side, and choosing which side to start with, has shown that I can get a reasonable cut with my existing saw*, and with the bare minimum of handsaw work. It's certainly a clean enough cut for the hidden side of the joint, and the layout of the sleepers allows me to make all my cuts the hidden face. I do still fancy getting myself a chainsaw at some point, but I can push it back until some other justification crops up (or I invent one). The Husqvarna 236 seems like good value at £180, so I've put it on the "toys" list for a later date. *In reference to the discussions above, I've got one of the Evolution brand saws, and they come with a specific blade that's supposed to be ok for both wood and metal. I do know that they run at a lower RPM than other brands, and the blade's a proprietary one. Certainly, I've run through screws etc in pieces of wood and it's not noticed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 18:21
|
|
|
I figure the answer is no, but maybe I'll get lucky. Is there a air compressor that can deliver 7cfm @ 90psi and runs on 120v?
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2011 22:56
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:I figure the answer is no, but maybe I'll get lucky. Is there a air compressor that can deliver 7cfm @ 90psi and runs on 120v? Nope, best you can get is about 5.5cfm, looking though Gainger.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2011 23:53
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
So I am starting to think about shooting some paint in the kind-of-forseeable future and wonder what I should be looking for/avoiding in a HVLP gun. It's not for a large area- for a dashboard. At some point I have another, larger application in mind (the underside of the hood). Thoughts? Suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2011 06:27
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:I figure the answer is no, but maybe I'll get lucky. Is there a air compressor that can deliver 7cfm @ 90psi and runs on 120v? I believe this one can be converted to 120v. It won't make the full rated cfm, but it might still do 7.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2011 08:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 20:34 |
|
|
oxbrain posted:I believe this one can be converted to 120v. It won't make the full rated cfm, but it might still do 7. That looked like a straight 220 compressor, but here's one that says it will do 7cfm@90psi with 120v: http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/BelAire-2061V-Air-Compressor/p4786.html
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2011 10:21
|
|